ScubaRx

Do you always wear that bear suit?

Most of us leave the stinky slinky permanently attached to the drain pipe. It sounds like your gray water cable needs to be adjusted.

When I ordered our Silverado 3500, I also ordered the trailer tire sensors and the rear camera that goes on the rear of the trailer. They were delivered with the truck from the factory. If you have a tire problem with one of the truck or trailer tires, it will pop up on your DIC. You do not have to actively monitor a separate screen to check the tires. It's all integrated into the truck.

The LP connections are not free. The Original Owner apparently didn't want/need them.

I've had a front hitch on every one of the five tow vehicles we've owned and I've been preaching this sermon for years. Maybe folks will listen to you.

And you won't have to do it again for him.

I agree. Matt and I talked at the rally about putting some restrictions in place concerning non members, as well as members who never post.

Symmetrical Numbers, that would be a palindromic number... Like Hull #050

Be careful there, Art. According to HH's Code of conduct, you are not allowed to cook outside. Code of Conduct While each Host has its page detailing where to park and what they expect from you, Harvest Host has a Code of Conduct that you must follow. It is mandatory to have a self-contained RV with a water tank, an indoor kitchen, and a toilet. You cannot cook outside or use a tent. You may also have to show proof of liability insurance, so make sure you have it handy.

I added two motorized valves to the water lines going to the outside shower. I also added an air line to each water line with check valves (to prevent water from back-flowing into the air lines) to facilitate blowing the lines clear for winterization. The air line runs to the front of the trailer to a quick connect. I can use either the compressor system in the Silverado or a compressor at home. I also re-built the outside shower and dump valve box. Here is one of the motorized valves with the air connection prior to installation. Here's a look at the control station mounted in the basement.

The furnace will heat below deck. You can enhance that by opening some forward hatches to get warm are from the coach into areas that are further from the furnace.

I admit that I have no direct knowledge of how much that particular line would drain under the circumstances you describe. Compressed air will quickly displace water pushing it the line if the air has an escape route. I've found the best method of evacuating water for the plumbing is to use the on/off method. I usually use about 40 pounds of air pressure. Apply pressure to the lines with all taps open. At first, a good bit of water will flow out. When it has reduced itself to a sputtering gurgle, cut it off and wait a few minutes. This will allow the residual water to run to the low spots and pool. Turn the air back on, water will come out the second time but not nearly as much. Repeat this several times until you've gotten the bulk of the water out. I doubt you could ever get it all out but that's OK. In the case of a closed end line (as with the composting toilet) I believe it would drain out just fine, but if I were worried about it, I would replace the cap with a valve that I could open during the blowing out process and then close again. If you wait until the last stages of the above process, you'll only have a small amount of water from the valve that you have to deal with.

I "borrowed" this pic from @Hokieman post above. This is a great example of what I've been preaching for the last 15 years on how the jacks ought to be used. As you see he has only barely extended the jack foot. This makes for a very stable resting platform since there is virtually no flex from the extended leg of the jack. Further, when you forget to raise one of the jacks as you are leaving camp you will not ruin the jack by bending the still extended, all the way to the ground, jack foot. Rather the jack will drive off the block and exactly no damage will occur. Hopefully you will feel it, if not you may leave your blocks behind but they're a lot cheaper than replacing the jack. If this tragedy ever happens to you, know that you will have to cut off all of the inner jack tube that is sticking out. Without a reciprocating saw with a good metal blade or a hacksaw and a lot of arm moxie you may be stuck for a while. You can't just drive away dragging the bent jack. Great Job!!!

Her trailer is a 2017.

Isn't Lukeville just down the road from Organ Pipe NP?

That's a good bit of weight added behind the axles. Too much trailer weight behind the axles will lead to fishtailing and could lead to an accident. At the very least, he has altered the balance of the trailer and is reducing the tongue weight, another factor that could lead to decreased trailer control. I hope he's got a big truck pulling it. If so, he'll probably be OK. That said, "HOPE" is not a strategy.

If I'd known there was going to be math involved, I would not have signed up.

My Windows 10 works just as Bill stated except my cursor in step 3 us just a plus mark.

Greetings from Hull #050.

As we don’t consume alcohol, HH has never been a draw for us. Yes, I know they’re not all alcohol related, but with having to pay to be a member, being expected to buy something before you leave seems to be awfully expensive for what you get in return.

There is no dampening built into the trailer. The hull sits directly on the frame separated only by quarter inch strips of rubber between them. The attachment bolts go through the hull, rubber, and frame from the inside.

I doubt it.

Nice work.

I should have clarified my statement to say “pull off the road and activate emergency flashers” I didn’t mean to indicate you should remain in motion.

I think leaving the emergency flashers on is the best idea.