ScubaRx

Or you could just not worry about it. If someone wants into your trailer bad enough their gonna get in and tear up a lot of stuff in doing so. If you ever lock yourself out, you'll wish you'd left a window unlocked. We generally leave the windows unlocked and open. Sometimes the door also. Of course, Reacher might be in there. For those of you who've met him, you know what I mean.

The rep was correct, don't waste your money.

Be patient (I know, hard to do). They will work properly but it took several hours on mine. Plus, don’t be switching them around from tank to tank (like I did) thinking that will solve the problem. Occasionally, they will still act up for a few minutes but they always straighten themselves out.

The correct dosage of diphenhydramine (Benadryl) for dogs is 1 mg/pound. I recommend buying liquid diphenhydramine to be able to accurately administer the dose for smaller pets. Although a larger bottle (greater than 100 dosage units) may seem like the best deal, they will probably go out of date long before they are all used. Just an old retired Pharmacist’s advice.

I agree, for a great number of reasons.

I’m the one that came up with that tv mount back in 2013 and had it installed during the build of our Outlaw Oliver II. At first Oliver would not use it for anyone else due to RVIA rules about blocking the egress window. Now it is standard. We've pulled that trailer for 50-60K miles all over this country and not once has the tv come down. Check all the screws and adjust tightness if needed. Also, make sure the rotating cam/pawl lock is turning freely.

It is supposed to say “monitoring system for TANKS and batteries”

The Oliver does not now have, nor has it ever had, the ability to monitor the propane levels onboard. The See-Level monitor system can read a dedicated sending unit if you have one mounted in your tank (which we do not.) In my opinion, the Mopeka system remains as the best aftermarket answer.

To keep from rehashing previously discussed info, please see this thread. I have bought and installed the Mopeka system and I can report that it works like a charm. I recommend it to anyone that wants another toy for their box.

For years the go to adhesive/sealant has been 3M 4000. Recently, the factory began using something else in addition to the 4000. I’ll get the name and report back.

The reason for this is there are no dealers. You are buying directly from the factory thus there is no middle man markup and no room for price negotiation. As Tom said, virtually all fiberglass trailers are sold that way. You did notice there is one currently for sale on the forum right now...? And at an exceptionally good price.

I like the pavilion model because it has the built in side panels but it needs a long pickup bed to stow it lengthways. It is 81” in the case. In anything less than an 8 foot bed it will will have to go in diagonally. Other than that, it’s not really a lot larger than the the one that has the add on panels.

Partial owner is an owner. Welcome to the club.

That was on our previous Oliver. I doubt I’ve got any pics of that mod. We are on our way to the Boler Rally in Winnipeg. I’m afraid that screen from a door would be too fine meshed and would impede air flow. I formerly used 1/8” hardware cloth. That’s small enough to keep birds and most insects out.

Great write-up. We have the same setup except our truck is a 2017 Silverado. I assume that your truck is a diesel crew cab with a standard bed. Unless the 2018’s are different and not that it matters much, but if you look closely at the trailer towing section in our manual you’ll see an superscript number 1 by the max trailer weight of this model. We are actually “limited” to 13000 pounds of conventional tow capacity. The larger figure refers to the fifth wheel capacity. Of interest, the 3500 has the same limitation for the same model in SRW, although it is much higher (17200 pounds) for a fifth wheel tow. This is due to an additional spring pack on the one ton models - the ONLY mechanical difference between the two trucks.

Not sure about that white being the “hot” line thing. That’s not the way it’s supposed to be. This is precisely why I never hire anybody to do this kind of work. I just do it myself, then I know it’s right.

John, if you remove the shades and put a small dab of caulking onto the metal tabs and then reinstall them, they will stay on until you want them to come off again. A sturdy pull will break the slight adhesive bond of the caulk and they will come right off. I did this several years ago and they've not fallen off again. I did remove one once to clean the window track. Not having any caulk on hand to reapply, I just popped it back on and it has ridden just fine since. Apparently, the extra friction from the cured caulk is still enough to keep them in place.

Janie, when did you take possession of your Oliver?

As you know, using an inverter takes our on board 12 VDC, changes it to 120 VAC, into which a wall brick is plugged to convert it back to 12 VDC. As is obvious, this is a very inefficient way to use a 12 VDC piece of equipment. The 12 VDC plugs for our machines were over $50.00 each and we needed two. I solved that problem by making my own. The problem was that the wall converters had a proprietary plug that I could not find/buy. I went down to my local respiratory care place and asked if they had any old nonworking power supply's. She brought a box of them out and let me take two for free. I cut the cords off, put a $3.00 12 VDC male plug on the end and voilà, a (relatively) free power cord.

Just curious, we run two machines every night (1x CPAP and 1x BiPAP). We run both off 12 volts (via the batteries). Do your machines not run on native 12 VDC?

Tom and Marie, welcome to the most exclusive club in the trailering world...The Oliver Owners!

We’ve got one in ours right now and I thank you for reminding me. I need to get up there and get it out before we leave for Winnipeg. I’ll get up there and take the shroud off the unit and do whatever it takes to remove the nest. It’s safe to walk on the roof, it will bear your weight. I’ve never seen a commercial screen but I made one for our previous Oliver’s A/C unit.

I used 1/8" hardware cloth on the inside of the vents on our first Oliver. Attached it with hot glue. Worked great, never had any mud daubers or the such. We've had our second Oliver for over 4 years now, still haven't gotten around to installing some on it. OTOH I've not had any problems so it keeps slipping my mind. Anyway, you can buy the hardware cloth at any big box store and cut it to fit. It's probably cheaper and easier than trying to find something pre-made, if it even exists.

John, I know you've not been within the Oliver fold for very long so you don't know the whole story. Perhaps a little history is in order. The name "Legacy" has nothing to do with the fact that our trailers will be here long after we've passed on and gone to our reward. It was chosen by the Oliver family to honor one of their own. You see, Jim Oliver, the patriarch of the Oliver Clan and Oliver Technologies Inc. which includes Oliver Travel Trailers had a twin brother - John Oliver. It was in the mid 2000's when these two men envisioned building a better molded fiberglass travel trailer than all the others that were available. Unfortunately, John passed away before that dream could come be realized but Jim carried it to fruition, and it is John's picture on horseback that adorns the front of the very first Oliver that was built. So, it was to John's "legacy" that our trailers are dedicated and I feel sure there was no deception intended.

Foy, I (and I’m sure my well meaning friends) need to apologize to you for blatantly hi jacking your thread. I actually have no idea where the washer could have come from. Without a spare nut to go with it, I probably wouldn’t worry too much. When we all start back to school this fall in the ninth grade maybe we can learn how to behave.