Geronimo John

Not necessarily due to the many variabilities involved. For the vast majority of TV's being used for OE2's, the charge current is not limited by the factory alternator size when charging up to 30 amp units like the Victron- Orion 12-12/30 amp unit size. Rather, I believe that the main limiting factor is the cable size driven voltage drop. For our size of rigs, the absolute minimum I would suggest using is 4 AWG. I also prefer running two parallel cables vs. using chassis grounding. For those using Litho's and/or having a Smart Shunt on the negative side, the only thing connected to the battery bank is the shunt. I believe OTT knows this and would be "Shocked" if they had not wired their Litho systems accordingly. Beyond this imperative we could have a discussion about wiring various other charging systems.... actually the topic of a thread or two. 😉 I'll leave the first part of this response to others to debate. However, the bolded part tosses a red flag in my pea brain. At a basic level, the PRIMARY purpose of the shunt is to MEASURE charge current and battery draw for the purpose of calculating the battery bank SOC. Whereas the solar controllers CONTROL the charge rate and doing so properly does impact battery life. Not the shunt. Granted using additional equipment may aggregate data for display and other purposes. But the basic equipment purposes remain the same.

NO. Not with one that has a tow rating under 10,000 pounds.

From the charts I agree. But... If we are running 34 or 40 PSI with a tire minder, we would need to set it lower to alarm. I run our OE2 @ 50 PSI. This gives my tire minder an opportunity to alarm earlier, for the express purpose of giving me more time to find a safer place to get off the highway. Yes, this is a compromise of sorts, but far less than what John D. and I tussled OTT to reduce their required PSI of 80 a couple of years ago.

Sadly this would seem to be a hail disaster like the AS's have become. GJ

The Riven does a bit better. But frankly I am surprised that Tesla offers a trailer hitch. None the less, not a suitable TV for our long distance towing with an Ollie. But we can only imagine what will be the case in the future as the battery densities get much better than todays. GJ

OK, you tossed down the gauntlet! Our F-150 3.5 EB shows range of 720 miles upon fill-up. Actually only get just under 700 miles though if I drive nicely. Regardless, I totally agree with your point that cross country travels are for sure out of the question for EV's. At least for some time from now. And maybe never for pulling an Ollie out west (especially). 🙂 GJ

Now that would be an easy mod with real world benefits! Have on occasion wished it was there, but at the time it was not a priority. On my "B" list now! Thanks GJ

Art and Diane: Congratulations! Such a wonderful Christmas gift, one you can enjoy forever. And they have a lifetime warranty too - you can bring them back at any time, as many times as you please. As a five time Grand Pa, I have learned that: "Grandkids are so much fun, we wish that we would have had them first!" GJ

I had not seen this layout before. For us, I would miss the pantry. But certainly can see this layout for entertaining purposes would have advantages. GJ

i think he is wanting them for long term storage, not weekend campong. GJ

Can we see some pictures? Of the insert that is! 🙂 GJ

I personally use the following safety procedures when ever I am jacking up Ollie for service of any nature: Keep Ollie fully connected to your tow vehicle. Nothing like having a 6,000 pound anchor attached. Flag the steering wheel as a reminder that you are connected and the TV can not be moved. Pocket any spare keys that your partner may have as further precaution. Use all three jacks to elevate the trailer only as high as necessary. Be aware of the geometry aspect of doing so, especially on the front jack. Use safety blocking at both sides of the trailer if your body is going to be under the trailer, especially if you have any tires removed. GJ: PS: No comment on using your jacks for service purposes..... This topic has been beaten to death several times already. If new, look it up.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but it is for sure related to the above. Three enhancements that I found to be VERY beneficial for our TV (F-150 crew cab short box FX4) are: Bilstein 5100 rear shocks E-Rated AT tires Rear air bags Despite spending the last five summers out west in the mountains, I did not really understand this until we did our 45 day Alaska trip. GJ

JUST THE BEDS. But I recommend using just a 4" topper over the stock mattreses. It would bed less expensive and less troublesome for forragng under the beds and quite comfortable as well. GJ

Ralph: I agree with your sage advice: "don't leave home without it". Not for sway control.... Ollie has near zero. But for porposing and general handling. Your quirks comment got me a LOL. For sure for sure. To a new Anderson user, my Anderson Golden Rules are: Keep the Andersrson pin, pin hole, plate and shaft clean and lubricated. When disconnecting, loosen the big nuts all the way until the square shaft threads ends are well inside the nuts. Raising the connected Ollie/TV up with your front jack will greatly improve your effort to connect the Anderson plate. Make sure to disconnect your Anderson only with the TV and Ollie in line.. ie not at an angle with each other. Failure will result in bad words when you try to reconnect later..... GJ

FOR THE TWIN BEDS; We went with 6" memory foam. 4" would be a better choice should we ever need to replace them. GJ

Friends, this is a MFG defect of high order. From the below video, it appears that the axles come to OTT assembled. 11 seconds into this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ngr0igwf20I The transverse running brake line is clearly routed to the other side in these replacement axles. So, don't waste your time trying to get Dexter to do anything. Been down that road with the EZ Flex Center Bolt Migration Issue. Instead, I recommend written reports to the NTSB and also the issue on every RV trailer forum you know of. GJ

thanks Ron. Corrected typo above in RED and GREEN. 🙂 GJ

What root causes can you think of for this problem? Change in the bedding material to one that is more dense. Softer material would crush on both sides of the frame thereby form a channel that would keep it in place. More dense could slide out. Your turn! GJ

Interesting out of the very many OE2's, the first two owners to mention this problem are both 2022 builds. Good move Ron and SNYSDUP!! I am guessing that before 2022 2020 there was somewhere around say 500 that came off the line. pre-Covid. Either we have a LOT of owners that don't crawl laps under their trailers, or something changed with the design, or installation, or both. Worth a question for sure. And I'll be inspecting mine this summer as well. GJ PS: Likely there will be a lot more of these. Question is how widespread through the fleet is the situation. Service Tickets all on this one. PSS: We need a catchy name for this syndrome. Covid Slip maybe?

Most likely as you stated. But, maybe not. When in troubleshooting mode, between Muphy's law and my spelling of "ASS-U- and Me" I try as best as I can to avoid both. 🙂 But, as you stated the odds are that it likely would have evaporated. More likely water got into the control board at the same time as on the heat exchanger. Water on the control board area would generally result in a unit failure. But then, I'm now making ASSUME's too. GJ

Steve :Sometimes a PM is a better choice for communication. Especially when as a moderator you are communicating in a somewhat threatening tone.

Somewhere in the dark hollows of my brain folds I recall that we have a lifetime warranty on our hulls. Assuming I've not inadvertently been feed some magic mushrooms on my pizza, is this the case and would it not be a warranty issue? PLEASE send OTT a service ticket on this. GJ

John W: For your system and those exactly like your system, that would be convenient. However if your trailer is stored in hard freezing conditions and often not under direct observaion on a regular basis my pea brain has tossed a red flag warning. However many, if not most of our systems are not like yours. So to that group I suggest two cautions: A. Some MFG's say don't do so. So check your documentation or call/email your MFG to verify. B. No manufacturer that I am aware of allows their Litho's to be frozen and charged/discharged. So if your winter location can deep freeze beware. Likely OTT was aware that your factory Litho package has battery heaters. So long as they operate perfectly then it may be OK. And that may be OK is totally dependent on your battery heaters working every time they are needed. Personally I would not assume that each one of them will work every time for the life of the Litho's. Murphy's Law rules. However, I would not recommend that other owners of Litho's without battery heaters assume that their comment applies to them for deep freeze storage. See Items A and B above. GJ

Along about 30 NOV we sort of hyjacked the flex panel thread into Charging Ollie With Multiple Sources of Power. Maybe a good time to seperate the threads. I hate it when I hyjack my own thread......... and then have to ask forgiveness after the fact. Drats GJ