SeaDawg

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4156-how-hard-to-find-used-oliver-trailers-with-king-bed/#comment-41087

I bought a new door. If your fridge is a cf130, same door as my truckrfridge tf 130. Same puny pins. I broke mine a few years ago because I tried tp close it with too much frost buildup. Part is readily available, and install is about 1 minute.

That Houghton a/c 48v is 48v dc only, not 110 ac. Can't be run on 120. I guess the point is to run directly from battery, no loss from inverter. Clearly labeled "not for marine use", so that's not the reason. 24 and 48v systems are common on boats, stepping down to 12v, or separate 12v bank for lights, etc. 24 and 48v systems are often designed for big winches, windlass, bow thrusters, and electric drives. Eliminates long runs of heavy Guage wire, power loss, heat gain, etc. I was really surprised to see that on the recpro site. Can't imagine it's a big market.

Welcome from #12! We love photos. Happy travels, and let us know how we can help.

Sorry for the threaddrift, Mike. We're all good now. We have a friend in the tree service. Came out to survey two hours after the tree fell Monday morning. By Tuesday noon, his skilled crew got everything off the roof, with no other collateral damage but the original bashing of the ornamental cupola, and a few minor original dents and dings. Took down five other "suspects" for us, near rhe barn. Anyone in the Asheville area, I can highly recommend B nB Tree service. Owner Craig is highly responsive. TJ, lead guy on our last two jobs, is highly skilled, very safety concious, and super careful. A less careful crew could have caused major consequential damage. @jd1923, you can bring that chain saw in the fall, if you like. We'll run races with our big Husqvarna ranchers, when the pile of logs has had time to dry a bit. Stihl 026 is an awesome piece of equipment! This job required a bucket truck, lift, and skilled service. The metal roof was slick as snot, by the way.

We replaced a big bank of six volts on the boat with the Epoch 460. It's heavy, but light for the power it stores. Epoch also makes well reviewed smaller batteries, with comm. Two 100 ah batteries would probably fit, but the 460 is ip67 rated (best for the boat) and I think the 200 are only ip 54 or ip57. Still, in a sealed compartment... There are options beyond Battleborn. None are actually "drop in." My husband and our friend did some wiring changes. We already had controllers. Required setting changes. So far, so good, but only six months or so in. 11 year warranty. Epoch was a fraction of the cost of battleborn, for same storage capacity. Will prowse reviews on tear down were impressive. We took a fly, and I'll update as we go. (600 watts of solar on the boat. No shore power connection, normally. We haven't plugged in for 5 years, at least.) So, we'll update as the years go on.. JULY 2025 EDIT: Will Prowse has done some testing on current production Epoch batteries, and they are no longer on his recommendations list. Before buying any lifepo2 batteries, I'd google youtube will prowse (insert battety name) and see what he has to say. Will doesn't take free stuff for recommendations, and he's a sharp, thorough young man. Many of us here have followed him for years on YouTube, and his forum.

@jd1923, removal depends on the sealant. Heat can often help, and a plastic blade, for the big strips. With the suspected 4200 on the oliver light , we used a Heat gun on low, at some distance to not deform the fiberglass, passing it thru the lite. (I was outside, my husband inside.) Isopropyl alcohol works on some. Mineral spirits on some (but needs to be cleaned up later.) Googone caulk remover I've heard works on most caulk except silicone. 3m makes a remover for virtually every type of caulk manufactured. If you know the type of caulk you're dealing with , you can call the manufacturer for best practices. Heat first, plastic blade, and chemical removal last is our usual practice. Sorry I didn't respond earlier. We've been a bit busy with storm cleanup.

@MAX Burner, is that the mountain summit gear roll top table holding up your Blackstone? How do you like it?

Won't change my mind. It has adhesion, but not a true adhesive. Imo. it's self healing when adding mechanical fasteners. I wouldn't drive with vents open in the trailer,if thie light is only held by synthetic butyl, as we sometimes do. Glad it has worked for you, and as I said, not familiar with the brand. Imo, synthetic butyl is the very best bedding compound for windows and lights. It stays flexible for a long time (maybe forever.?) We'll see.

Set your fridge to propane (cycle the button) and let us know how it works.

If by Scubarx post it means that Oliver has gone to silicone caulk everywhere, I'm not happy. I hate that stuff, except where in contact with lexan or polycarbonate, imo. Too difficult to remove, and even silicone won't stick to old silicone residue.

@DavePhelps, you'd probably be interested in this article by Practical Sailor. Your fave, sika 291, and mine, loctite marine pl fast cure, tied for first place in extensive testing. 😃 https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests Practical Sailor is my go-to source for all things fiberglass. Back in the day, when it was print only, we kept issues in binders, with an index. (Far before Google days....) When we replaced our Oliver sign/third tail light, our sign was crazed, and broke when we tried to remove it to rebed. I think Oliver used epoxy tabs, and 4200, old school. Loctite is very thick, but I think you may have had an old tube. I always look at the Julian manufacturers date. It's only good for a year. Six months (maybe) in the garage fridge, sealed.

Dave, bed-it is advertised as a sealant, not adhesive. I've never used it, so can't comment, but we've always used mechanical fastening with butyl. Their website seems to indicate need for mechanical fasteners. It's not strictly butyl, bit a proprietary synthetic. I'm going to look into it further. https://bed-it.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8dXGcsPUM4Q1gkegJ1KqTXDP31KkBDpG1tTgV8nhpgRL4YtIdHdlxAaAihcEALw_wcB We've used a number of great sikaflex products, in specific applications. Sikaflex makes amazing products, and a huge array of them, for specific applications. 291 is polyurethane, not polyether, so not recommended for bonding to plexi or polycarbonate. I don't know what the Oliver sign is, but guessing plexi, so I went with a polyether for caulk, (after butyl, for perimeter) compatible with plexi. Just in case. https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/global-industry-content-pages-to-keep/commercial-vessels/elastic-sealing-bonding/watertight-sealingbonding/sikaflex-291.html?_gl=1*1b55yh0*_ga*MTM3NzMwMDk0OC4xNzE2Njc4NzAy*_ga_K04G1QB2XC*MTcxNjY3ODcwMi4xLjAuMTcxNjY3ODgyMi4wLjAuMA.. The loctite marine has been a good "all arounder" for us, for the last few years. None of these adhesive sealants have a long shelf life, so keeping one around for most projects ( fiberglass to wood, metal, plexi, etc.) has worked for us. We'll see how it plays out. Works in progress, avoiding silicon. 🙂

Hi, and welcome to two venerable "clubs," the Oliver family, and the Every Day is Saturday Club. We've been lucky enough to enjoy 17 seasons in both. Here's to your adventures! 🍾

And, start with small, sharp bit at low speed. Expand.

Our 2008 connection is not furrion. Don't know about future years. Could this have been a previous owner mod?

You know my feelings on the Oliver light. Permanent solution is remove, rebed with butyl, and add mechanical fasteners/ screws. Butyl is a wonderful, pretty much permanent sealant, but not an adhesive. That said, loctite marine sealant, fast cure is what we've been using as a polyether flexible sealant adhesive for a number of years, ollie and boat. No yellowing in Florida sun (yet.) Polyethers play well with fiberglass, wood, and plastics. Def no to 5200. Either of the 3m 4000 or 4200 are difficult to remove, later, imo, though 4000 has better uv resistance, so I've read. Pick your poison. And, add an eyebrow of rv Eze gutter over the light, as a bonus. The loctite product is "reasonable" at about $17 at lowes or Depot. Do read the date code. It's sometimes out of date at big box stores, and then it's tough to work, and useless.

I like the white marinetex, as I've suggested many times, for minor projects. It's always in our supply locker, as in most boaters. It's "pretty close" to our Oliver color, "pretty close" to the boat color, to fill in screw holes. If you cover the filling with saran wrap or tape (remove promptly after set), it stays fairly glossy. And smooth. Wprk on cooler days (70s) No need in inobtrusive areas to gel coat, as you would need to do with bondo or fiberglass paste. . Which is a pita. If you don't like the end result, it's easy to drill out and redo. There are many videos out there on YouTube.

Maybe u could trade?

I'll look forward to your posts. You can compare heights on any low profile toilet. Our 2008 Aqua magic has been great. All the composting toilets are tall. If you like that concept, buy/get a footstool. If not, retrofit, and join the rest of us with the stinky slinky.

Morning coffee = camping lifeblood, for many of us... brain food.

Any time we can help, we're here.

The powder calgon has been discontinued in the US and Canada, for a number of years. (Hence, the Polish version in gj's photo.) Liquid has limited availability. Washing soda (not baking soda) has the same major active ingredient. Many dishwasher pods also use it. (Sodium carbonate.) Or, borax (different chemical, same effect.). Or powdered laundry detergent. Lots of good choices.

Thanks! We have a FanTastic vent, but a number of reviews mentioned that they had other brands than MaxxAir, and it worked! I'll download the install manual and see if it looks like it could work for us.

It fit our 2008, with a bit of filing of rough edges.