topgun2

I'm no help on the adjustment since mine are of the vintage variety. However, they and your rig do look good! Bill

Great news for you. You've got plenty of time to plan trips for the first year and plenty of time to read everything that the Oliver University has to offer. Let us know if anything doesn't make sense to you. Welcome to the Family! Bill

Use the code Flash10 at checkout for 10% off.

Mine is a 2017 F-150. Answers to your questions - 1: no 2: no I've never had a hint of sway with my Elite II regardless of Andersen, no Andersen, Ford's anti-sway or no Ford anti-sway or any combination of these. Bill

If anyone is interested in the "GasStop" product - automatically shuts off propane in the event of a large amount escaping, TechnoRV has a sale on them until the end of October. Bill

A sad day in that I had to put my Elite II to sleep for the next couple of months (at least). Fall is in full swing, the leaves are changing and falling and the temps have been above normal. However, next week has at least a couple of days of rain forecast plus the temps are going to finally take a dip. Added to the changing weather is a full schedule of appointments for the next two weeks. Is there some medical name for feeling sad because the camping season has come to an early end? ☹️

As promised - here are a couple of pics of the foam board installation. Bill

OK - pics coming later today. However, don't mix apples and oranges. MY purpose of using foam board is/was to reduce the temperature differences so that there would not be a surface that was cold enough for moisture to condense versus what JD is basically talking about in improving air circulation so that moisture can evaporate. Ideally, both of these approaches can be used to combat condensation. However, as I pointed out, I decided to see if the relatively low cost method would work before taking additional measures involving airflow. JD's "soak test" in his post above is a bit of a waste of time in that at least both sides of most construction foam board that I've seen is covered with a thin sheet of plastic which would , obviously, prevent virtually any water from penetrating into the foam - let alone the density of the foam itself. In this regard and to certainly prevent the intrusion of water of any kind, I even went further and sealed all of the cut edges with clear tape. This also has the added benefit of keeping things a bit cleaner and helps satisfy that OCD nature that is not the private domain of virtually anyone. Bill

As you probably already know - our trailers are reasonably prone to condensation, particularly in areas near moisture producers such as "humans". This topic in various forms is fairly common. A few years ago there were owners experiencing moisture buildup beneath and to the sides of their beds. The "solution" for this was to purchase what I though was a very expensive "breathable matt" similar to the one that Oliver currently sells as an option. Since I happened to have some "foam board" like THIS I decided to give it a try in order to reduce the temperature variation between the bed and the other surfaces. Now, six years later, I can say that I've never had a single moisture problem either under or on the sides of the bed. I cut one piece of the board to fit the area under the mattress and cut two more such that they would run along the straight sides of the mattress and come to the top of the mattress. Finally I cut three relatively short pieces the same height as the last two and taped them together such that they would conform to the radius of the curved section of the wall. If anyone is interested in a picture of this I can post one tomorrow. Bill p.s. If you decide to do this mod then don't forget to cut a small place in the edge of the foam board where you can get your fingers/hand under it so that you can easily grab it to get access to the hatches.

Darn it! I wish someone would STOP this lady 'cause she's ruining my diet! 🥰

Nice to watch that video and take in all the differences between the Elite II of then versus how it is now. Bill

AND - the East is where the Oliver is made.😁

Welcome and glad that you "found" Oliver. Besides visiting an Oliver in your local area (a great first step 'cause seeing is believing), if you live anywhere close to the Oliver factory, be sure to take the tour. Also, for both the tour and your visit - take your camera. It will help you remember what you saw and help with questions that you may have in the future. Good luck and let us know if there is any question we can help you answer. Bill

Brian Z - Forgive me if I'm wrong, but, having just re-read the last couple of entries in this thread, I believe that there just might be some mixing of apples and oranges going on here. All your solar panels do is put a charge/current into your batteries. In turn, your batteries are then used directly for power for 12 volts things like your lights, TV, radio, fridge, etc. Anything that requires 110/120 volts takes current from your 12 volt batteries (whether lead acid, AGM's or lithiums), runs the 12 volts through your inverter/converter to change from the 12 volts to 110/120 volts and then powers your device. So, there are two things then that come into play - your battery capacity and the capacity of your inverter/converter. Besides having a big enough battery bank with enough amp hours to run/operate whatever it is you're trying to use for the amount of time you'd like to use it, you must have an inverter/converter that will be big enough to supply the converted voltage. This is one of the reasons that the Oliver lithium package has a 3,000 watt inverter/converter as part of the package versus the "standard" 2,000 inverter/converter that is in most other Ollies. And, even with that inverter/converter size of 3,000 watts, the fairly large battery of lithium batteries will only run the air conditioner for about 4 hours. Hopefully I have not confused the issue for you. Bill

My twin bed Ollie is set up as a one bed with the other side being a couch (i.e. it uses the standard cushion on the bottom along with cushions along the wall). On those occasions when either my wife or my fishing buddy join me - they sleep on the "couch" with the back cushions removed for the night. All six people that have done this have told me that they slept very well and this was surprisingly comfortable. Bill

At the Florida mini-rally I hosted a couple for a tour of my twin bed Ollie. The male is 6'4" and he laid down on the bed flat on his back and had a bit of room to spare - his head did not touch nor did his feet touch unless he flexed his feet (pointed his toes) towards the wall. At 6' tall, I can flex my feet and touch the wall with my toes but my head is not touching the wall. Patriot is in the "tall" range and has the twin bed model. Perhaps he will chime in here and/or you can always send him a private message (PM) on this Forum to get his input. Bill

JD - I believe that it (the color) is being caused by the lighting in the photo. Note the color of the aluminum where the "1up" sticker is located - much the same color as you are referring to on the sleeve. Bill

Try this: left click on the three dots located in the upper right of the post with the picture you wish to edit - the picture should turn a blue color. Then right click while holding down the "control key". A "pop-up menu should appear in which one of the choices in the middle of that menu is edit picture. Left click on that and another menu pops up that allows you to move the picture and/or re-size it. I don't think this is an Moderator only function - but - I could certainly be wrong. Bill

I'm ex-military but not retired ex-military. So, I can't get into those camp grounds either. However, I'm so glad that there are those that not only served our country but did so for a longer period of time than I could. They deserve this benefit. And, they certainly show true style and taste in that Ollie.

I'm not sure if that slight elevation was done on purpose, but, any water that would be in or near that valve should simply drain back to the lowest point. Thus, there would be no water there to cause an issue in freezing weather. Having said this - there is always "some potential" for virtually anything to happen. I've just never heard of it. Bill

Welcome to the Family! Obviously there is some bias here but most (if not all) reached the same decision as you did probably for many of the same reasons. The time between now and July will go by quickly even though there will be the occasion that you will wonder if it will ever get here. Use this time wisely - study the Oliver University and this Forum even more than you have. This "homework" will serve you well and make your "newbie" introduction much more enjoyable with a bunch less stress. Let us know if there is anything we can do to help you. Bill

Besides the lube that DavePhelps mentions make sure to take a look around that valve to make sure that it has room to operate freely. Bill

RE-check that hot water bypass just to make sure. OK - turn off the kitchen faucet and open the bath faucet. Any luck? If no luck then look at the level of antifreeze - is it going down? If its going down then the stuff is going somewhere. If its not going down then there must be a block somewhere between the kitchen and the bath.

Since the fresh water tank is comparatively large and there is relatively little water in there (assuming that it has been mostly drained), there is nothing to fear from the remaining water in that tank freezing. Remember, it is the expansion of freezing water that causes the issues. If there is nothing for this expanding freezing water to "expand" against then there is no harm. Certainly there is nothing wrong with what GJ is doing - assuming that the fresh tank is thoroughly flushed prior to its next use (which should be done regardless when the tank is sanitized). But, it is extra work. Bill

I know the answer to this - but - where do you and Duke sleep?😁 Bill