topgun2

FWIW - During a meeting back in September (2020), I was advised that Oliver was doing a couple of "new" things on the quality control front. First was a "tablet" based system that required all quality control issues/items to be inspected and approved at each stage of production along with another "final" inspection being done at the end of production. This system then allowed management to focus on any repeated "fails" or "exceptions" in a virtual real-time basis and be able to identify exactly where the problem occurred. Then, partly due to a TN State requirement plus the quality control issues, Oliver was using a system where any new trailer was/is actually "sold" from the production area to the sales area. Here, the sales area takes the form of the customer and does another inspection prior to "accepting" the product from production. Then, there is the pre-delivery inspection of the trailer. While this inspection tends to focus on making sure that the product has the options the customer ordered, it is also used as another inspection. Finally, there is the inspection that is done at delivery. This process may or may not be the entire process, but, I would like to believe that even under the most harried circumstances, virtually all faults and flaws will be caught. However, I like to believe that I'm not totally ignorant and as has been said many times before, as long as humans are involved then something is bound to go wrong at some point. I know that I was not happy when a couple of quality control type items became evident on my Oliver shortly after delivery. However, one of the things that has endeared me to this product and company is the way each and every one of these issues was handled. By far the best of any company I've ever dealt with. No, this is no excuse for Oliver and the fine folks that work there (particularly for items related to safety), but, I believe that the Open Letter from Oliver (dated June 9, 2017) still stands. Bill

One of the at least one is EZE Tire TPMS. Bill

That's two votes for the I-70 route - thanks BackofBeyond. East of the Mississippi you will drive through a bunch of fields until you get near the WVA/PA state lines. Then you are in the "real" east with roads that wind through the hillier areas of western and central PA along with more traffic. If you decide on the I-70 route I can give you a list of campgrounds that I've stayed at over the years but, there are enough of them east of Kansas City that it should not be an issue. Bill

I think that you got the answer you needed relative to the trip you are about to take in the posts above. But to specifically answer the question in the quote above - I don't know the exact "torque specs" for this. However, I know that when I tighten mine it is really fair tight. Make sure that you use several wraps of Teflon tape on the threads. At delivery (or before I took the rod out the first time I put it there) there is a mark painted on the rod and a corresponding mark painted on the heater. All I do is line these two marks up when I tighten and then observe for leaks around those threads. If it leaks I'd give it another 1/4 turn until it stopped leaking. Bill

Patriot - That is an absolute shame and I'm sorry for all the work you went to only to find out that the door manufacturer has changed the "caulk" they use to install that frosted window. Hopefully Zarcor will come up with a solution to this issue. If they don't it will cost them a bunch of sales, not only to Oliver owners but also to all of the other camper manufacturers that use this very same door/glass combination. I've been told that Casita now offers the Zarcor blinds/tinted window combination as an option with their new campers. Perhaps an email to Oliver Service, cc to Oliver Sales might get you some help or, at least, help those that are going to purchase and Oliver in the future. Bill

In addition to what JD just said - I'd try to make sure that the exterior shower is drained as much as you can and even then if it is not winterized I'd leave them either at a slow drip or (if you have a way of being sure they don't "run" open both the hot and cold entirely i.e. leave the lever on the showerhead in the closed position). If you are going to have a problem it will most likely be on the street side of the trailer given that there is much less heat ducting over there. Bill

Along with the rest of the truck - it really has some serious running boards too. Bill

Bill - That 13% you cite is very indicative of your front not being raised when dumping. Unless there is a long line at the dump station, I always raise the front during this process. Not only does this help in achieving a "full" dump but it also helps increase the velocity of the liquid during the dump which helps move "things" along. Great to hear that your towing experience is going well. Olivers are certainly easy to tow. Strange that the center cap on the wheel should crack. Do you recall hitting it? A quick call to Service will have a new one on its way in no time. Bill

Whether or not anyone decides on rotating tires of either Oliver they should keep an eye particularly on those passenger side tires. And this is particularly so if you tend to drive on a lot of roads that have a high "crown" or tend to overload the passenger side/curbside of the trailer. Both these situations tend to put added weight on those curbside tires. In addition, many roads have "issues" with that curbside lane or track which causes more wear on these tires. Bill p.s. of course the same thing applies to your TV too.

JRK - The strike plate issue can (and does) depend (sometimes) on how the camper is set up. I tend to like my Ollie to be a bit high at the front and low on the curbside. There are situations when either I don't have the time to level perfectly, can't level perfectly, or, the Ollie simply settles after I have leveled it perfectly. In all of these cases, the strike plate can become out of alignment with the door latch. Yes, this misalignment could also be attributed to the production line but most often any leveling issues on the production line will only be in the north/south axis (hitch to tail) and not side to side or a combination of both. This is due to the fact that most production facilities have level floors. And, yes, there is a bit of "slack" built into these but it is not much or your door would tend to not seal properly. All I'm saying here is that after delivery all it might take to create the "sticking" condition is to drive over a curb, hit a pot hole, set up camp with the camper not level, slam the door, push or pull on the door without releasing the latch or any combination of these things. So, it could be due to any of these things - not just being "allowed to leave the factory in that condition, without it being properly adjusted". "I would forget" - a way to make sure that you don't forget is to make and follow a checklist. There are very important safety issues involved in towing anything that should absolutely not be forgotten. For me, one of the items on my "departure list" is to make sure that ALL doors are shut and locked prior to getting in my truck. I've found that one of the items I tend to overlook is to shut and lock the bathroom door - thank goodness I have that checklist or I would have had several broken mirrors on that door. Bill

Several years ago my wife and I were in extreme southern Utah at an Anasazi site when four bombers came over doing a low level practice. The ground shook and we wondered if somehow we had wandered into a military bombing range. Great relief when the last one actually tipped his wings. THAT is a sound I will never forget. Mike - did you hear them coming or did you just plan to be out in the yard? Bill

Why on earth would you root for the team with the young guy versus the team with the "old" quarterback?😇

Just why is it that at my age the words, "age for replacement", make me nervous? Anyway, point well taken but given how difficult it is to "search" for things, keeping even related issues separated can make it easier to find them again in the future. Sure would be nice to lump all things related together - TIRES for instance to include the things you mention plus brand, size, etc. but if anyone is searching for any one of these it just might be buried. Bill

Landrover - I split this because it probably deserves its own space and will be easier to find in the future. I've swapped mine - front to back - but not side to side. I've kept a keen eye on the tread of all four looking for any signs of wear that might indicate any issue and all four still look amazing even after something like 50,000 miles. Most likely I will be retiring these at the end of this coming year due to age and not due to any wear issues with them. Bill

By the end of March even interstate 70 through the western mountains should be OK. Yes, there can be late winter storms there but that section through Vail pass is very well traveled. However, chains just might still be required even without snow - I'd check on that before I left. The only problem that I've heard of regarding interstate 10 is that it is very rough in certain areas, and, of course, it is a longer drive. Good luck! Bill

Ouch! I remember a -16 while in Pittsburgh and the door seals on my car were NOT soft anymore. You area a better man than I - Gunga Din. Bill

Gary, Certainly I appreciate your concern about appearances, but, I wouldn't worry about it. During your orientation you will get to know at least a couple of these guys and they are all just regular folks like the rest of us. Heck, I'd be a bit surprised if they didn't offer to help. Bill

One of the things we like about our home in western North Carolina is that we can experience the snow above and by 2:45 that same afternoon it is 50 degrees and all of that snow is gone.

Certainly your plan of driving over to WalMart is fine. However, I'm sure that the delivery guys will not kick you out of the delivery area while you adjust your tire pressures. This will be particularly helpful if it is raining. Not withstanding the advice above, if a tire that is not in the sun or on very hot pavement increases its temperature more than 10 degrees, you should consider increasing the pressure in that tire(s) - as JD pointed out previously, under inflated tires will run hotter. Same is true for your tow vehicle Speaking of tow vehicles - as you increase the weight on those TV tires (particularly the rear tires even when using a weight distribution hitch) you should adjust the pressure to account for that increase in weight. I run my rear tires 4 to 5 pounds higher when hitched and I use the Andersen WDH. Bill

I'm not totally familiar with the automatic door lock but I'd be willing to bet that it uses the same type of "strike plate" as the standard door closure uses. This plate is adjustable by simply loosening the two screws that hold it in place and moving it - slightly - toward the exterior of the camper to reduce the pressure needed to close and latch the door or toward the interior of the camper to tighten/increase the pressure needed to close the door. Be careful to not overtighten these two screws - once it works as you wish then a drop of blue/medium lock tight would be in order. Bill

Just thought that a nice little reminder for all those that think the "south" is always sunny and warm. Also, for those of you "basking" in the warmth of the southwest - enjoy it while you can. These shots were taken at 7:45 this morning. Bill p.s. it is now 9:15am and any snow on the street is gone, the sun is out with not a cloud in the Carolina blue sky.

Bill - Re your #1 above: A leak of anything above a seep between the hulls will be very easy to identify - water will begin to come out of what are called the "scupper" holes in the underside of the Oliver. Besides looking for where the water is coming out, you can also look for the stainless steel "half-cones" that have an opening facing towards the rear of the Oliver. As with water craft these are formed and placed in this manner so that as you drive down the road any moisture (think condensation here) will actually be drawn out from between the hulls. Bill p.s. I do use quick connects and I do use covers on each when not in use.

Other than the price - you really can't go wrong with virtually any of the Griot's stuff. They have these microfiber TOWELS and GLASS CLEANER that are really great. Bill

Both of the trucks (2011 and 2017 F-150) and the 2020 Subaru only show tire pressure - no temp and no alarm setting except for the "alarm" of the idiot light telling you that they are low. I'm not sure what happens with either if there is a "blow out" other than that same idiot light coming on. As far as "airing them down" they do automatically adjust for this event once the vehicle is driven either a certain speed and/or distance. Bill

SNY - Most newer TV's come standard with a TPMS. Both my current and former truck had it and our Subaru Outback has it along with the two previous Volvo's.