topgun2

DJM - I'm presently looking at the 2019 Tow Ratings in the 2019 Good Sam Guide To Towing. Obviously this may or may not apply specifically to your 2016 Grand Cherokee but I suspect the numbers are close (see your Owner's Manual). For the 4 wheel drive model with the 5.7 liter V-8 the tow limit is 7,200 pounds. So, it appears that you will be OK on that front unless you put way too much "stuff" in your Ollie. However, the number that "gets" most of us on the decision to use a weight distribution hitch(WDH) (or not) is the hitch weight. This Good Sam towing guide does not address this point and it is this hitch weight that causes most users of 1/2 ton trucks and similar SUV's to have to use a WDH. In the case of Ford a WDH is required if the hitch weight is over 500 pounds even though my F-150 has a tow rating of over 12,000 pounds. Besides the legal and/or liability issues relating to using or not using a WDH one should also consider the other benefits of WDH usage. These include the potential for a more consistent and level ride, reduced "Porpoising" (the bouncing of the tow vehicle and trailer usually caused by interstate expansion joints), and as an additional safety measure in the event of emergency driving situations. Bill

And - back to John's original question: I've been told that the Sales office will, indeed, move to the new location (299 Industrial Ave) once renovations are completed. This is presently scheduled to happen around June, 2020. In looking at the site with Google Maps https://www.google.com/maps/place/299+Industrial+Ave,+Hohenwald,+TN+38462/@35.5618843,-87.5397438,17z/data=!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x88634ab5b88f2967:0xf35ff32d4edfb6d6!2s299+Industrial+Ave,+Hohenwald,+TN+38462!3b1!8m2!3d35.5618843!4d-87.5375551!3m4!1s0x88634ab5b88f2967:0xf35ff32d4edfb6d6!8m2!3d35.5618843!4d-87.5375551 , there appears to be a bunch of room for all kinds of neat things (like overnight camping in the back) but I've not heard any details. There is presently a nice concrete apron surrounding the facility and it appears that getting in/out will be reasonably easy. Bill

I've added a bunch of "extra" insulation in my Ollie. Every inch of both hot and cold water piping has been covered with foam insulation. My original intent here was to help reduce noise from the water pump, but, I believe that this has also helped with retaining the "heat" of the hot water. Given that I had some insulation/sound deadening material left over in the shop from trying to lessen road noise in an old pickup truck, I then moved onto insulating those "trap doors" that give access to the areas between the hulls. This really helped in reducing water pump noise and even some minor condensation that I was having under the sleeping mattress. Next on the agenda was placing additional insulation (Reflextix this time) on the inside of both the exterior shower door and the outside basement door. This required adjusting the latch and the addition of some standard foam type stick on ribbon insulation (think of the material used for sealing drafts in windows). Finally, I got into the bowels (as much as I could ) between the hulls and put additional Reflextix anywhere I could stick it - heck, I had the material so why not use it? I even got to the point of using a roll of the silver "aluminum" heating duct tape to seal around where wires go through the existing insulation and/or where various "panels" join to one another - such as the panel that separates the basement area from the area containing the street side rear jack. I'm really not too sure that all of this work has resulted in a more energy efficient Oliver, but, the water pump noise is somewhat less, dust/dirt infiltration in the basement door area is greatly reduced, excess materials in my shop have been cleaned out and it made me feel good when the guys in Service were impressed with the job. In this picture note the silver insulation on the "trap door" on the extreme right of the picture and the extra layer Reflextix over inside of the wall on the extreme left of the picture (the "flap" of extra insulation that was cut out and then left to rest on top of the heat duct is the dead give away). This is also before I started to insulate the pipes. Bill

Yes - and nice Oliver tumbler on the table too. Bill

I was kind of hoping that Chuck would have a chance to try it out and get back to us here. Bill

I agree with FrankC - try moving the square knob that is right on top of the jack. If that doesn't make it move then give it a light tap under the bottom of the jack on the exterior and then try to manually move it (square knob on top) again. If that doesn't do it - drop back and punt 🙂. Or, call Jason in Service. Bill

Heck - all one of you "newbies"(Class of 2020?) have to do is figure out a time and place (your own campsite would be good or under the shelter where the vendors are), post it here, announce that it is BOYB and/or pot-luck appetizers. I'd bet that a number of us "oldbies" would even like to join you. Perhaps Wednesday late afternoon - I've not even taken a look at the schedule yet but there has to be an obvious time slot. Bill

Welcome! Looks like we are going to have a fair number of brand new 2020 Olivers at the Rally. Maybe all should plan a little get together if for no other reason than the campers just might want to spend a little time with their "litter" mates. At least it would be an excuse for a cocktail (or two).😁 Bill

Buck - Looks nice and gives yet another place to grab - nice job - thanks! Below is a pic of a rope/bungee that I made primarily for use out West. With the afternoon winds out there my open door would rattle and shake being only held by the hook at the bottom of the door. This rope/bungee has a stainless steel hook at each end, hooks to the interior side of the door latch at one end with the other end hooking to the propane tank cover latch. It gives added support to the door with the bungee allowing some dampening of the buffeting caused by the wind and taking the stress off the bottom door hook. I'll post better pis of this when I get a chance.

hobo - I give those threads a shot of "303 Protectant" a couple of times a year. I'm sure that a pure silicon spray would do just as well or even simply rub those threads with paraffin wax. Bill

Blue Spring SP is one of my favorites. For 15 years straight I stayed either in the campground or the cabins there during Daytona Bikeweek. The number and variety of fish that are in the stream between the spring and the St. John's river is amazing let alone the Manatees. Enjoy it! Bill

Ouch! Obviously this issue is the reason for that aluminum plate on the door behind the rubber bumper. A number of us have installed a grab bar that attaches to the screen door so that there is something to hold onto in the event of a strong wind - screen door grab bar The only downside to these is making sure that people don't use them for "support" when getting in or out of the camper. Bill

Humidity inside a structure that doesn't "breathe" can be a problem. The obvious answers are to allow it to breathe or to reduce the source of the humidity. This means to either get air circulation with less humid air or remove the source. Opening a window - sometimes a crack will do and sometimes you might need to go "all in" by simply opening it. Turning on the MaxAir Fan with a cracked window. Use the air conditioner. Use supplemental fans. Use products like "Damp-rid" or an actual de-humidifier. Take your showers in the campground shower house. Cook outside. Certainly open that MaxAir fan when you cook inside - it helps reduce humidity and odors. Remember that while your Oliver furnace takes in outside air for combustion an then expels that back to the outside, any other propane devices you might use (propane cooktop, propane heaters such as the Mr. Heater) produce moisture as a by product of combustion. I've found that the "answer" to this problem depends on the conditions. But the first think I do is crack that window. Bill

You're welcome - it did take me a bit of time to find it. Bill

jo79RI - Just because you will not have your Ollie until 2021 is no reason for not attending the Owner's Rally. The State Park has both rooms in the Lodge and they have cabins. Just think how far above the learning curve you would be if you joined us. Certainly you are welcome and I think that you'd learn a bunch along with having a good time. Bill

Here's a pic of Mainiac's mod which I copied after he posted it back in 2017.

Wow! Nice, new, clean, happy people, happy pups - what else could you hope for? By the time Spring actually gets here you will have it entirely sorted out. Hope to see you at the 2020 Owner's Rally. Bill

Nan - I assume that you are just using your jacks for stabilization and not for lifting the trailer to change a tire. If that is true then you should not have to worry about 6x6 blocks splitting no matter if you are with or against the grain of the wood. I rarely use my rear jacks. However, I almost always use one of these 6x6 blocks under my front jack.

Nan - Of course, in situations where the height of the 8 inch block that Mike uses might be too tall, he can always simply turn that block on its side thus reducing its height by approximately 2 inches. Probably that is the reason he's smiling in the picture? Bill

On your tow vehicle - normally to the right and left of the actual hitch receiver - there will be a hole or slot that is large enough for a chain or hook/clip to fit through. The ends of the safety chains/cables normally have a hook on the end that is then "hooked" to this hole/slot. Perhaps if you viewed this YouTube video you'd understand better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARZhXW5g_7c Bill

MarkC - I do not believe that John's wear was "normal" for the Andersen system and as I recall, I posted pictures of my hitch ball that didn't have any of the same type of wear patterns as John's showed. However, your real question is do you need a weight distribution hitch with a one ton truck and the answer is no. As far as "being smart" in using a larger ball - I agree with Mike. The standard 2 inch ball is fine and I've never heard of even one failure with it. Is the larger ball better? Certainly if someone were to give me the larger ball, I'd take and use it. But, for my needs - what I tow, where I tow, how I tow - I would not pay for it. Obviously, if you plan on loading your Ollie to the max, tow on very rough roads, otherwise plan on abusing (meaning rough treatment) the hitch system, then the larger ball just might be a better way to go for you. Bill

The chains/cables being discussed here are designed to be able to keep the tow vehicle and trailer attached to each other in the event of some type of failure of the hitch system (i.e. the hitch receiver, the hitch itself, the bulldog coupler assembly, the front of the frame of the trailer, etc.) This is why these are sometimes referred to as "safety chains/cables". Bill

MandD - Sorry about your wife, sorry for you, sorry for the moose, and sorry for the Jeep. Ouch! on so many fronts. When you mention that the Jeep moved 4 feet sideways, I assume that the Ollie simply followed right behind and didn't exhibit any kind of sway or other "strange" movement? Thank you so much for posting your bad experience - it is fair warning to all of us. Bill

There are now companies that make "Andersen style" blocks https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Yellow-Stabilizer-Jack-Support/dp/B076BRXLL4/ref=pd_sbs_263_4/146-3628680-5199367?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076BRXLL4&pd_rd_r=71c9b40e-198c-475a-b9ed-9cbd9f75047a&pd_rd_w=E3FuD&pd_rd_wg=fXUek&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN&psc=1&refRID=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN And "Andersen style" ramps https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-2-Pack-Camper-Leveler-Handles/dp/B076X5W1LZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=CW2VBL2WAZ9K&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1581523807&sprefix=andersen+%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-8 that are much less expensive as compared to the Andersens. Bill

jo79RI - Yes, new Olivers come with a "stinky slinky" that attaches to the Oliver and then the other end is placed in the sewer opening. However, while the new Oliver also comes with a drinking water hose, it is NOT what you want to use for rinsing your black tank! My recommendation is that you purchase a length of garden hose that is NOT white (I've got a grey one but virtually any color other than white is OK so that you don't accidently mix up your drinking water hose with the one you use for your black tank). There are plenty of YouTube videos on this subject and it really isn't any big deal. Bill