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Thanks , that’s pretty much what I plan on doing too. I have the AGM batteries but I was curious about lithium and the high price. I can plug into the truck bed outlets if needed and I might buy a generator as well.

Was reading wyofilm post about his new trailer furnace not working. I'm I correct in assuming the Oliver heater is not suppose to work above a certain altitude? But some of them do work? And, if you are one of the unlucky and yours won't work, you can get a high alt. kit for it. How much do those cost? If you get the kit does it function at lower altitudes ok? Wondering why Oliver isn't installing a furnace that works everywhere or just puts the kit on each unit. I'm guessing you can't have a furnace that will work in both low and high altitudes. Otherwise, I would think Oliver would be using that brand. Are those of you that have a furnace that doesn't work in high alt. using a generator with a small space heater? I live out West and most of my camping will be at high elevations and even in summer a little heat in the AM is welcome. This is a concern for me as I don't like the idea of using a generator every time. What is everyone one doing for a solution. I've never owned an RV and maybe this is just the way it is and you live with it. But gezzzz, we put a man on the moon, cant there be a furnace that works everywhere? I'm missing something here.

@Wandering Sagebrush, what do you store in the box? How do you "balance" with weight on the tongue? I'm sure other inquiring minds want to know, as well.... That's a huuuuge box!

@topgun2, I think I lied. The photo of the box was on wanderthewest.com, not here. BTW, WTW is another great family friendly place to hang out on the web. It’s focused mostly around popup campers, but includes most types of small RVs and trailers. @MAX Burner The rear trailer lights are visible, but 50% blocked by the box, hence the lights on top. The previous owner had two trays for mtn bikes that he retained, but I believe my round bar style Yakima trays will work well.

On another note. . . In previous posts and also in a PDF "how-to" document I posted, I referenced about a 4 degree temperature swing with the wiring mod to cycle the interior fan with he compressor. My updated experience is this temperature swing has been as much as 8 degrees! I have temperature sensors in 3 different places inside my 23' RV (it's an Airstream, not an Oliver) and they all give different readings. I'm not too surprised by that. Only the one that is somewhat in a path of the air out of the air distribution box on the ceiling gives a reading close to the set-point on the Houghton. I'm also experimenting with setting the fan to Auto only at night. This is the setting that turns the fan off when the compressor is not running. Then, during the day, I'll set the fan on medium which allows it to run all the time as designed by Houghton. I started this approach yesterday and during the day, the interior RH reading was in the upper 50s. I only have sensors to measure RH. I left the fan on medium overnight and woke up to an interior RH reading of 78%. I slept in the house so it wasn't my breathing that added any humidity. I'll continue to monitor it today with the fan on medium and see if the interior RH drops. BTW, I appreciate the engagement here on this topic. I've posted remarks and questions about this on the AirForums and there hasn't been much engagement. I also find myself looking more and more at those nifty Oliver Legacy Elite II's! A lot less tongue weight for my F150 than my comparably sized 23' Airstream. I like the twin bed offering, too. A buddy of mine and I want to hitch up and point ourselves west and "go see America" when we retire -- if my parents' health permits. The two fixed twins would be ideal. But, man, I'd hate to give up my front panoramic windows that I love so much! Conundrum. . .

The KSH folks provide a cam lock nylon strap for securing the generator. Looking at the photo of the u bolt inside the box, notice a 1/4 gap under the u bolt. I plan on running the straps under the u bolts and over the generator. I’ll probably also line the box with some sort of rubber to further protect the generator just in case.

@SeaDawg -- The first thing I see at the top is the "video is private" and it doesn't have a title below it or any identifying information; then I can see a yellow text box and blue text boxes and photos below that (even above the one you mentioned). It's possible, but hard to tell -- I thought maybe there was another video at the beginning. I did watch the one you referenced, and I had accessed it via Oliver Travel Trailers YouTube channel (Thank you to the Service Team for posting those).

I just posted a trip report on our last 2-week dry camping run. It was HOT and HUMID most days here in CT. We have the factory Platinum lithium package and found we could run the Dometic A/C for about 45 minutes at night while watching TV before going to bed. (We use the ARC input to connect the TV audio to the Furrion amp and speakers. With doors and windows closed, it was not audible outside the trailer.) That was enough to significantly cool and dry the cabin. We did that on the worst days, maybe 4 nights. If there was full sun the next day, rooftop solar refilled the batteries. If not, we lost maybe 4-5% SOC. We never used our Honda genny. Even with some cloudy days we could go a LONG time that way, probably a month. Last year we tried running A/C most of the afternoon. That definitely required the generator to run the A/C, recharge the batteries, or both. Not worth it. Also note, the Truma A/C requires a larger generator than the Dometic with soft-start, which runs fine on a 2000W Honda.

Legacy Elite owners be advised: this does not accommodate the safety chains or the trailer plug due to the location of the jack with respect to the coupler and tongue box. This was a disappointment to me, as I followed the user reports of this cover here in this thread. I promptly returned mine and ate the shipping cost... Otherwise, it looks like a fine piece of kit.

I have come across an issue with my LP propane system that I believe can easily be remedied by replacing the regulator (which appears pretty straight forward), My unit 1139 is still under warranty but i'm in Florida and can't make it to the factory. i have an Oliver ticket on the issue and was told by service to take it to a service center. I've called two so far. One does not have a full-time LP gas tech and the other I'm waiting on a call followup. I'm looking at changing out the regulator (only if needed) (Its a $40 part plus my labor......Wife & I are readying the camper for a trip too and its frustrating to hook it up to take to a service center, who would need to check the system and order the part, which could take two days or more! My issue: I purchased a Champion 3500 electric start dual fuel generator (Awesome generator) Until I could get hoses & connections for the Quick connect gas fittings, on the camper, to run a line to the generator, I removed one of the propane tanks and connected directly to the LP tank with the supplied hose that came with the generator. The generator ran great. I did find out, that to get steady power to the Camper (the onboard surge protector was not recognizing the generator and would not let power go to the camper) I needed a Neural ground plug to go into the generator's 110 outlet. This has been addressed. After fitting my hose with the proper fittings, I connected it to the LP Quick connect, supplied during manufacturing of the camper on the street side right under the LP tank holding compartment. I turned on the gas and noticed I smelled a slight odor of gas and could hear an air sound coming from the round piece that's part of the regulator, under the switch valve handle (we now believe this is normal sound of the regulator adjusting the pressure). I put soapy water on the connections of the hoses to check for leaks but nothing! All appeared tight with no leaks. However, I was not getting propane to the generator through the Quick connect on the camper?! I then noticed the regulator indicator was showing green on the switch on the valve when the gas was turned off, indicating there appeared to be an issue with the regulator!?......but now don't believe that's the case! I have ordered the part just for backup at this time! (I can always have it installed or checked by a LP gas Tech, when I can find one lol)....Part should arrive on Sunday 2/12/23. I'm throwing this out here in the Forum to see if anyone else has had this issue and has any advice for me or experienced anything that would be of help. UPDATE: Having second thoughts that it might be the regulator, other than the camper regulator may not supply the right pressure to fuel the generator?! Found out my neighbor has dealt with these issues before, so we are thinking the regulator is working properly, just having to figure out if you can run a generator from the QC supplied by Oliver from the camper!? Thanks, Vic Shumate

Hi Mark, Carrie and I are not planning on powering our air-conditioner with solar/batteries. We rarely use the air-conditioner. If we need it, we will find somewhere to plug in or bring a generator. It would be problematic to expect the battery and solar to keep up with that degree of energy consumption. Kirk

Very happy with the Barker Jack cover fit and finish. I don’t hang my safety cables on the cover or use the 7 pin plug holder. They already have a secure storage location. I really like the visibility of the leveling bubble at the top and the zippered access to the Jack and light switches. I don’t know of any other cover that provides this feature. The cover fits nice and snug behind my 3200i generator cover. It’s a 💯keeper for me. Patriot🇺🇸

During our recent 3 month 10,000 mile trip to the North East, we stopped in Raphine Virginia at the Pilot Travel Store and weighted our rig. The procedure is to weight the total rig (3 zones), steer axle, drive axle, and trailer axle. Then weigh again with the rig disconnected so the trailer axle zone is the trailer disconnected and the axles and front jack are all on the 3rd zone. Then, you will have almost all the information you could ask for, including the tongue weight using a little math. FYI, my cost was $11.00 for the first weigh session, the $2.00 for the second. There was an discrepancy of 40 pounds between the two sessions, which is probably within the tolerances of the scales. Session One: Steer Axle 4,520 Drive Axle 5,180 Trailer Axles 5,880 Gross Weight 15,580 Session Two - Trailer disconnected: Steer Axle 4,800 Drive Axle 4,260 Trailer Axles 6,560 Gross Weight 15,620 So, bottom line, total trailer weight loaded is about 6,560, the tongue weight is about 680 lbs, and the axle weight is about 5,880. The easy way to calculate the tongue weight is the subtract the two different trailer axle weights. You can also examine how much weight is added to the rear tires of the tow and subtract the amount reduced on the front axle of the tow. (That calculates to 640 lbs, but remember the difference is weights due to tolerances. So a safe guess is about 660 lbs if we split the differences. This is fully loaded E2 with 4 flooded golf cart batteries, solar, extended twin beds, Honda generator in the basket, etc. Fresh water tank full, black and grey empty. So the tongue weight is about 10% of the total trailer weight. The rig tows beautifully with no sway without any equalizing or sway controls. The tow vehicle is a Dodge Ram 3500 diesel with the bed loaded. Brad - Santa Fe, NM

Hi Campers, Is there any reason anyone can think of why a Honda EU2000i generator would not show up on the Xantrex freedom x device in my Oliver Elite II? Is it not powerful enough? Or is either the generator or the Xantrex freedom x not working properly. Of course, it could just be me! I started up the generator. Waited until the green light on the generator indicated it was producing enough voltage. Then I plugged the cord into the generator first, and then the Oliver. Is it me, or is it something else? Would appreciate any advice. Charlie Citrus Breeze

This is what you need. A neutral - ground bonding plug. It’s a plug that ties the neutral and ground lines together on the generator. This gets plugged into one outlet on the generator and then the trailer gets plugged into the other outlet on the generator. Or, if you are comfortable doing basic electrical wiring you can also make your own using a standard replacement plug and a copper jumper wire as some owners have done. Southwire Company LLC Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug https://a.co/d/gkhoMF0

I posted some pictures years ago when I installed my box but I can’t find the thread. Part of my box is on the fiberglass and part is over the aluminum tongue. I used a piece of a workout mat (square puzzle like pieces) on top of the aluminum to make the mounting surface even. Then, I simply drilled three holes through the box and through the fiberglass and used some stainless steel bolts to secure the box. I have a piece of yoga mat on the bottom of the box to cover the bolt heads. I’ll try to find some pictures. Here’s a shot of the bolts, the placement was determined by the configuration of the tongue underneath. A blurry shot from underneath the tongue. It doesn’t look like much but it has been very stable over the last 5 years or so.

I decided to check the backside of the 30amp plug under the rear dinette seat.. I want to check and make sure the wiring screws were tight. Someone else did this and it looked easy. I'm electronically challenged. First, I tried regular and metric Allen wrenches I could seem to find one that fit and I couldn't budge the Allen screw. Need someone to walk me through the steps. The lower screw appears to go through the power cord. What does the Allen screw do and what is the larger screw do? Any help would be appreciated. Sometimes it is better to not open Pandora's box. Any help on what needs to be done and how would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Powermate PM2000i Inverter Generator which I bought very cheap, since it was not running. I had to unfreeze the cylinder as the previous owner had not used it for 3 years and let the fuel dry up. I also had to clean out the carb. After spending some hours working on the generator, I finally got it running and it runs fine and provides the proper power. This generator provides 2000 watts Surge and 1600 rated watts running power. My Oliver AC has the soft start installed. When powering up the Oliver using the generator, the AC will start and run but whenever the AC compressor tries to come online, the generator slows down. After a few seconds when the compressor does not come online, the generator will come back to full speed until the compressor tries to start again after around 5 minutes. Is the 2000/1600 watts to small to run the AC compressor? I see the Honda EU2200i and the Yamaha 2200i, the rated wattage is 2200/1800 watts (surge/running power) and people on the forum say they run their AC units with those generators. The Honda 2000i generator provides only 2000/1600 watts of power like mine. Can people get their AC' compressors running with their 2000i generators? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

You can use a small generator to charge your lithium batteries through the 30 amp shoreline cord but you'll have to change a setting on your Xantrex converter if your generator only has a 15 amp outlet. The default setting on the Xantrex will attempt to pull up to 25 amps, which will trip the breaker on your generator. You can change setting 28 to 15 amps (or less) when you're charging with a small generator. Note that the little genny will work hard making those 15 amps. I might choose 5 or 10 amps so the generator doesn't work so hard (and loud). I don't know about connecting a generator 12v DC output to the external solar connector. You'd have to make sure you're within the wiring limits. The good news is, the solar panels do a great job. If you aren't running the A/C off the batteries, and you have decent weather, you probably won't need the generator much.

Today is a gorgeous 76 degree Western North Carolina day. And a really good cool, breezy day to install this new gen security mount - https://fittingdesignsco.com/products/generator-lock-security-low-profile-mount-honda-generator-mount-predator-generator-mount-camping-travel-mount-truck-mount Here are a few install photos. I measured and cut a piece of 3/4” thick rubber horse stall mat to serve as an additional vibration isolator. The install was straightforward using all stainless fasteners. Due to the length of the 3200i and the design of the security tray, this was the only installation configuration I was happy with. Overall, I am really pleased with how it turned out. This is the tray with the puck lock, which is bolted to the bottom of the generator. When you unlock the puck, the tray lifts out of the generator basket. The basket in the next photo is the basket that receives the tray and then the tray is locked into place with the puck lock. Do to the length of the 3200i and security tray it required a hole to be drilled to allow full key access to the puck lock. (Warning do not loose your keys!!!!) I still need to finish sand off the fresh edges of the key hole. I have ordered a custom made heavy duty cover with our Hull # on it for the 3200i from www.coversandall.com. This should arrive in a week or so. Presently Honda does not sell a cover for the 3200i. This custom cover will be much more robust than the Honda light weight covers. This is where the gen will live. Patriot🇺🇸

I have the 2021 version (same except 340 Watt Zamp solar). You indicated interest in a powerful Champion generator, which may mean you intend to operate AC without shore power. If that's the case you should consider the Platinum package with 630A batteries if you are willing to spend the money and there is still time to change your order. The Champion conflicts with your original statement about having an "as small as possible" generator. The following assumes a small generator. For winter storage I purchased an external charger that will operate off of a 15A circuit and outputs 20A to the batteries. I have a 20A outlet available at my storage location. I hook up the charger and turn on the battery heating pads. The Xantrex Pro 3000w inverter remains Off with no shore power. See the Lithionics Storage Procedure for more information. One time we arrived at a campground that had sagging voltage and could not use the Xantrex because the AC power would be shut down by the EMS during the frequent sags. Solar was insufficient at that campsite and time of year. The campground lent us a voltage regulator (I do not have a generator). My meter said that the separate 120v circuit was stable. Thus having the spare charger could have been used in that situation. It might be usable in yours too, if you are willing to operate in low consumption mode (no AC, no microwave) while charging. The Xantrex charge output is configurable, and I believe the default is set to 150A at 14.4V (or 1860 watts). This is equivalent to 18A at 120v. At that rate it should charge fully depleted batteries in a few hours (given its charging states that slow down charging at the end of the cycle). Keep in mind that this is the charge output. The input power required should be somewhat higher. If your generator won't handle that, you can configure the charge output down to as low as 5A. My solar can optimally output up to 150ah per day (full summer sun all day long). Yours should meet or exceed that. A 20A charger should be able to output 20A x 24h = 480ah per day in theory, so it should be able to fully charge your batteries in less than one day. If your generator fuel tank lasts 8 hours then you should be able to replace 160ah in that amount of time (not counting solar). See here for more info on external chargers. I finally bought the Lithionics charger directly from Lithionics for $199. At some point I will follow up on that post explaining why I chose it and how I hook it up and place it in the battery compartment. Good to have handy should the Xantrex fail.

Get a big truck. Not just for towing, but for the storage space. We have a crew cab gas dually with a covered 8' bed. It's big. We don't full time but even so the truck is full. The Oliver cabinets are full if we're out for 2 weeks or more, loaded up with a mix of clothes, food, and gear for both dry camping and full hookup glamping. In effect, a lot of the stuff that was in the basement of our fifth wheel is now in the truck. Of course, we could cut back what we carry. We have a generator we've never needed. We have a Clam with us. We have a lot of bike gear. A small Blackstone griddle. We could cut back on clothes. We could get a cap for the truck instead of the hard tonneau cover. I'm sure it could be done, but I'm not sure we'd be comfortable with the choices we'd have to make to do it. But, as @SeaDawg points out, others can. There's a couple on YouTube who full time in a Class B van. That's even smaller. It's a big leap. Have you RV'd before?

Hi, I am looking at getting a new 2022 Legacy with the Lithium Pro package and Truma AC for mostly boondocking. Unfortunately a Honda 2000i won’t fit into the front basket so I was hoping that I might use my Yamaha 2000 EF 2000i. It’s a 1600W with 2000W peak. I understand that this generator will not be able to do everything at once like charging the lithium and running the AC. It might actually not be able to start the AC. But since the AC can run from the Lithium inverter ( for a very short period), I was hoping that the inverter could start the AC and the generator could later sustain it. Then when I am no longer running the AC, the generator could charge the Lithium. Your insights and/or advices on the above would be most welcomed. Don’t be afraid to go technical, I am an electrical engineer. Thank You for your input.

If you use a generator to supplement your solar you can use your trailer power cord just like if you are on shore power. You might need a simple 30a to 15a adapter, depending on the generator. I had a Champion that had a 30a RV plug on the front. My current generator does not. Your solar connection is entirely different than a power connection plus you don’t need anything other than what is on the side of your trailer. We’ve done a fair amount of camping and have rarely needed to use our generator to charge. A few occasions during extremely overcast weather and cold nights caused our batteries to run down to the point I pulled out the generator. If there is any amount of sun and you aren’t in the shade you’ll find you solar will keep up just fine. Lithium batteries allow you to more of the amp hours than traditional batteries do. If you get a generator just ensure it’s a quiet inverter generator. Nothing is more annoying that campers with open frame contractor generators polluting the air with lots of noise. Mike

Yes, many people only use a small generator to charge their batteries. I use the OTT 30 amp power cord plugged into the generator. I bought a 30 amp to 15 amp converter plug as the generator only had 15 amp receptacles. You will also need a ground plug that is connected into one of the other generator receptacle to get the power into the OTT. I do not have Lithium batteries so I do not know what the minimum size generator you will need to charge the batteries. Someone else on the forum could give you that advice, or you could call OTT and tell them you only want a generator sized to charge the batteries. The external solar panel connection is only for remote solar panels. That connection goes directly to the batteries. The solar panel and batteries are both DC power. The generator puts out AC power through a DC to AC converter (I believe) in the OTT to charge the batteries.