Bike rack weight limits

[Jitters]

Good morning.

 

Does anyone know the weight limits for this setup?  Trying to figure if it is safe for a 1-UP bike rack with around 80lbs of bikes.

 

Thanks

 

Greg

 

 

[John E Davies]

I believe Oliver recommends 100 pounds max load on the recommended Lets Go Aero BikeWing 1.25" rack (which you can find that weight online).... if I am interpreting their data right. ...  https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/new-bike-hitch-capacity/

 

A call to Howenwald would clarify. I personally find the idea of hanging floppy cargo off that very small receiver MORE than a little disconcerting. The back end of your Ollie is a pretty violent location when you hit a big bridge dip at 65 mph. I double strap everything in my rear rack so I don't lose cans and chocks en route.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Jitters]

Thanks.  This is for a 2" hitch, not 1 1/4.  Should make a little difference.  But now their cross piece looks to be twice as wide and the receiver part is clamped vice welded.

[DavidS]

I have the Oliver Rear Bumper Bike Rack holder with the 2-inch receiver. They put a sticker on there stating a 100 lb weight limit.

[Jitters]

Thanks David!  Guess I will see how much a custom one will cost.

 

 

 

 

[John E Davies]

Thanks David! Guess I will see how much a custom one will cost.

 

Here is some food for thought.  .., https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-move-the-factory-cargo-tray-to-a-rear-rack/

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

[Pat Maundrell]

I've heard both 100 Lbs and 150 Lbs, (never in print) this is the first time I've actually seen a Sticker indicating 100lbs!

It critical to consider any additional weight placed on the Rear End of a trailer and how it affects the overall handling of the TV & Trailer combination. To much weight can upset the stability of the Tow Combination and can induce TRAILER SWAY! On the other hand staying within the recommended limits can have a positive effect on the Tongue Weight. 

[Jairon]

I heard it was previously 100 pounds but recently updated to 150 Lbs. If 150 Lbs is true, I don't know if it only applies to the new rack design. Please let us know if you contact Oliver.

[dewdev]

I just purchase the (current) receiver from Oliver and installed it myself. It is the same receiver that you can see on Oliver's web site pictures. They sent me a sticker with the 150 lbs limit. The receiver is a 1-1/4" unit.

[Trailblazers]

I'm curious on how you got the 2" receiver.  Did you have it custom made?

 

[Ray and Susan Huff]

When I was researching the rear receiver, I was told by my sales agent that they had raised the weight limit to 150#  Regardless, we did not opt for the rear receiver since our bike rack (1UP) is 2".  We found a hitch to work between the pickup and the trailer

 

[fredmin]

On 3/15/2021 at 8:12 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

When I was researching the rear receiver, I was told by my sales agent that they had raised the weight limit to 150#  Regardless, we did not opt for the rear receiver since our bike rack (1UP) is 2".  We found a hitch to work between the pickup and the trailer

 

Since I am also getting a Ford Super Duty and would like to avoid the bike rack additional cost, could you post a link to that hitch? I am assuming it is a 2 1/2” lower, what drop?

thanks

[Ray and Susan Huff]

3 hours ago, fredmin said:

Since I am also getting a Ford Super Duty and would like to avoid the bike rack additional cost, could you post a link to that hitch? I am assuming it is a 2 1/2” lower, what drop?

thanks

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/D210.html

Be sure you get the one rated for 7,500#.  It is a 2" receiver; the drop to the ball is 2 1/4" which works perfectly with our 2013 F350 SD (4wd).

It is a bit tricky latching the hitch as there is just barely enough clearance between the bottom of the 1up rack and the latch mechanism on the bulldog coupler.  This might differ with a different rack, so you will need to measure carefully.

Attached is a diagram of the hitch adapter.

I got lucky when we ordered and it was 1/2 price!

Edited March 19, 2021 by Ray and Susan Huff

[fredmin]

Thanks!

[dewdev]

Ray and Susan Huff - I am guessing that you do not use a WDH with this hitch arrangement. Is that correct?

[Middlefork49]

On 3/18/2021 at 6:48 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/D210.html

Be sure you get the one rated for 7,500#.  It is a 2" receiver; the drop to the ball is 2 1/4" which works perfectly with our 2013 F350 SD (4wd).

It is a bit tricky latching the hitch as there is just barely enough clearance between the bottom of the 1up rack and the latch mechanism on the bulldog coupler.  This might differ with a different rack, so you will need to measure carefully.

Attached is a diagram of the hitch adapter.

I got lucky when we ordered and it was 1/2 price!

We also have a 1up rack and are really interested in this option for carrying our bikes. We're not really excited about carrying the bikes behind the trailer. But...we do have a few questions we hope you can answer.

1. Do you find it difficult to load your bikes with the limited space available? We have two 50 lb. e-bikes and wonder if that will be a deal breaker.

2. Have you had any problem with the bikes affecting the turning radius of the trailer?

3. Do you use an Anderson or other sway control setup?

4. You mentioned that the 2 1/4" drop works well with your TV. But, do you ever find that an adjustable hitch would be helpful to level the trailer, or doesn't the weight of the trailer or TV change enough between trips to find that necessary?

Thanks for your help!!

 

[Ray and Susan Huff]

On 3/20/2021 at 10:35 AM, Middlefork49 said:

I will check with the Boss for answers regarding our 1UP rack setup.

 

On 7/29/2019 at 9:10 AM, DavidS said:

I have the Oliver Rear Bumper Bike Rack holder with the 2-inch receiver. They put a sticker on there stating a 100 lb weight limit.

How old is this sticker?  I was told the limit has been increased to 150#.  Call Oliver to check on this, though.

Edited March 24, 2021 by Ray and Susan Huff

[Ray and Susan Huff]

On 3/14/2021 at 11:31 AM, Pat Maundrell said:

I've heard both 100 Lbs and 150 Lbs, (never in print) this is the first time I've actually seen a Sticker indicating 100lbs!

It critical to consider any additional weight placed on the Rear End of a trailer and how it affects the overall handling of the TV & Trailer combination. To much weight can upset the stability of the Tow Combination and can induce TRAILER SWAY! On the other hand staying within the recommended limits can have a positive effect on the Tongue Weight. 

I agree regarding the effects of additional weight on the rear of the trailer.  You also need to consider the effects of it all on the bikes loaded in the rack.

[Ray and Susan Huff]

On 3/20/2021 at 10:35 AM, Middlefork49 said:

We also have a 1up rack and are really interested in this option for carrying our bikes. We're not really excited about carrying the bikes behind the trailer. But...we do have a few questions we hope you can answer.

1. Do you find it difficult to load your bikes with the limited space available? We have two 50 lb. e-bikes and wonder if that will be a deal breaker.

2. Have you had any problem with the bikes affecting the turning radius of the trailer?

3. Do you use an Anderson or other sway control setup?

4. You mentioned that the 2 1/4" drop works well with your TV. But, do you ever find that an adjustable hitch would be helpful to level the trailer, or doesn't the weight of the trailer or TV change enough between trips to find that necessary?

Thanks for your help!!

 

1. Loading isn't as easy as when the trailer isn't attached, but possible, as you have to straddle the trailer frame.  50# e-bikes will be more difficult than our lighter bikes, for sure, but that would be the case with any rack where you have to raise the bike up that high.  I'm not sure how you load them.

2. Turning radius is not impaired enough to be noticeable or a problem; maybe if you were to totally jack knife the trailer.

3. We don't use an Anderson or other anti-sway accessory

4. Your question regarding the 2 1/4" drop totally depends on the TV.  Our F350 SD 4wd is not even affected by the weight of the trailer, rack and bikes.  The dual hitch we use is just fine.  If the drop doesn't work for you, there is no reasonable way to adjust the drop, that I can think of.

When we decided to give this a try, I did some measuring and a bit of figuring, all before we even had our Oliver.  Since we were lucky and found the hitch at 1/2 price, we basically took a chance, hoping it would work (which it did).  We would have been disappointed if we were unable to use our 1up rack.

One thing you do need to be aware of is this: there is only a small amount of clearance between the lowest point on the bike rack and the hitch latch on the Oliver.  We usually lower the front of the trailer a bit, back the hitch nearly into position and then raise the front of the trailer and carefully drive under it (if that makes sense).  After one or two times, this isn't hard to do. 

[Middlefork49]

Thanks so much for answering our questions. We don't have our tow vehicle, yet, but hoping the dual hitch will work. Guess we'll see...

[Patriot]

Here is the 150# load rating sticker for our 2020 OLEll. I had the 1.25” core removed by a local machine shop for $30. Our bikes and the 1 Up Super Duty rack won’t come close to the load rating.
 

 

[John E Davies]

32 minutes ago, Patriot said:

I had the 1.25” core removed by a local machine shop

How long have you used it this way? Any sign of cracks around the corners? 1/4” of aluminum is too thin to support that load for a long period of time. That is one reason Oliver engineers doubled up the thickness (they really do understand aluminum structural properties). 1 Up uses a very cool anti-rattle design but it is meant for steel, and it applies a very heavy point load at just one location.. Have they commented about its suitability for use in a much softer material?

As an ex-A&P technician that mod really worries me. I think you risk having the rack and bikes drop down onto the road, or worse yet, come off completely, causing an accident. At the very least you should install a stout cable lock through the bike frames, rack AND around the bumper.I am not trying to sound hysterical, I truly think that is unsafe.

John Davies

Spokane wA

[Patriot]

6 hours ago, John E Davies said:

How long have you used it this way? Any sign of cracks around the corners? 1/4” of aluminum is too thin to support that load for a long period of time. That is one reason Oliver engineers doubled up the thickness (they really do understand aluminum structural properties). 1 Up uses a very cool anti-rattle design but it is meant for steel, and it applies a very heavy point load at just one location.. Have they commented about its suitability for use in a much softer material?

As an ex-A&P technician that mod really worries me. I think you risk having the rack and bikes drop down onto the road, or worse yet, come off completely, causing an accident. At the very least you should install a stout cable lock through the bike frames, rack AND around the bumper.I am not trying to sound hysterical, I truly think that is unsafe.

John Davies

Spokane wA

I have done a fair amount of research prior to pursuing this mod/application with a local aluminum engineer, aluminum tech and actually spoke at length with Oliver Service and 1Up USA. I have also communicated recently with another OLEll owner who has several thousand miles on this same identical mod and bike rack with zero structural integrity issues with the rack or receiver.
Based on these conversations I am not concerned about the structural safety of this mod.
My 1Up USA Super Duty bike rack (engineered for a TT) just shipped from the factory. I look forward to the install sometime next week. 
 

*My understanding is one of the big reasons Oliver inserted the 1.25” reducer is owners were overloading the aluminum receiver and exceeding the engineered rack weight limit which will naturally could result in a catastrophic failure. 

Cheers!
 

[Overland]

I think I agree with that.  Structurally, the aluminum sleeve can be thought of as a shim to hold the rack snug to the steel U-bolts, which are what's truly holding the rack. That is, I think the only stress on the sleeve is compression, not shear or torque.  The anti-rattle bearing on the 1-up is certainly a stress point, but I think you could solve that by lining up the bearing with the forward U-bolt.  From the photos, it looks like that would be possible.

I do wonder how thin the aluminum is where it's been routed to accept the U-bolts.  I think a failure there could allow the sleeve to work it's way out.  But it would have to fail at both bolts for that to happen, which is probably unlikely on a single drive.  Worth inspecting every so often I'd imagine, but I don't see a failure as being catastrophic - you'd have time to notice.

[John E Davies]

While I won’t change my feelings about that mod, please keep everybody informed in the long term, if it works out, that would be great. My concern is the up and down torque loads, they can be tremendous, for example hitting the two whoopdedoos of a poorly graded Interstate highway bridge at 70 mph. That bottoms out the trailer suspension and transfers most of that energy to the frame and rack. It happens as you hit the bridge, and then again as you depart it. Most unnerving!  I hope you have a rear camera that can be adjusted low enough to see the bikes, you can modify the power wires to operate it when driving forward. Good luck.

John Davies

Spokane WA