Washing, Polishing, and Waxing

[jordanv]

52 minutes ago, Mattnan said:

I do it all by hand using McGuire's.  Wax on wax off!!! 

So no buffer, compound, polishing? Just wash, then wax by hand?

[Jim_Oker]

Just now, jordanv said:

Where do you inspect to prevent leaks. Is this just making sure the window seals weep holes are clear?

I would think inspecting any caulking also - particularly in spots like around the Oliver logo'd light on the rear. 

[SeaDawg]

53 minutes ago, Jim_Oker said:

I would think inspecting any caulking also - particularly in spots like around the Oliver logo'd light on the rear. 

That 3rd light, beyond dirty/plugged weepholes, is the biggest culprit , ever .

Yes, inspect caulking, but most types of caulking is good for several to many years. Butyl is good for longer, but I seem to be in the minority on that love affair with synthetic butyl. 

Put the rv eze gutters on. Clean the weepholes. Watch the 3rd light 

Wax on/wax off, with your choice of products. 

We've probably had 10" of rain in western North Carolina this season.  My only problem was a heavily clogged weep in one window track. Easily solved .

I'll never make light if the situation,  as my husband knows. My spot on the bed is the back, three windows, and the 3rd tail light. I'm usually the one who "knows" if we're have a small leak. That's  a rarity, and in the past, always a weephole, or that 3rd tail light 

[jordanv]

48 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

or that 3rd tail light 

I’m not sure which light this means… sorry! Do you happen to have a photo?
 

Also, water gets in from a tail light?!

[SeaDawg]

On 7/29/2021 at 10:40 PM, jordanv said:

I’m not sure which light this means… sorry! Do you happen to have a photo?
 

Also, water gets in from a tail light?!

I call ours the third tail light. Others call it the Oliver light, rear, over the other lights

[IL_Travelers]

Jordan,  I recently had R-Villa ceramic coated.  The work was done locally by an auto detailer / son of a friend.  He normally works only on cars and trucks, but did the Ollie as a favor to us.  The ceramic finish cost $1,400.  The cost to buff it first was $600.  Total = $2,000.  I must say, his work was spectacular.  I thought the Oliver had a great finish right from the factory; it was amazing how much better it looked after this treatment!

We just got back from a trip from Illinois to Hohenwald, Laura, Ms, and then back home to IL; the Ollie was really dirty from nearly constant rain.  It was amazing how easy it was to wash and especially how the bugs did not stick to the front!

Some may say that is a lot of $$$.  To me it was well worth it.  At age 70, I am not interested in climbing on the roof, making it MORE SLIPPERY, and then trying to get down without injury.

[Townesw]

One of these warehouse roll around ladders makes the inspection, rooftop maintenance and wash and wax job much less miserable. I was going to say it makes the job enjoyable but that would be a stretch. 

[Mike and Carol]

7 hours ago, IL_Travelers said:

Some may say that is a lot of $$$.  To me it was well worth it.  At age 70, I am not interested in climbing on the roof, making it MORE SLIPPERY, and then trying to get down without injury.

As I get close to 70 this is sounding good to me.  Washing and waxing is the maintenance I don’t like to do!

4 minutes ago, Townesw said:

One of these warehouse roll around ladders makes the inspection and wash and wax job much less miserable. I was going to say it makes the job enjoyable but that would be a stretch. 

I’ve looked at buying some portable scaffolding.  Right now I climb the ladder, clean, climb down, move the ladder, start again.

[routlaw]

Old topic, but have to say waxing these things is a PITA especially the roof. Just finished doing mine for the year and each time I do this swear I'm going to buy one of those scaffolds rather than up and down, move, up and down over and over again. At my height of 5'7" it's an almost unsafe stretch at times too.

Like others on this thread have spent quite a bit of time looking into the various methods and products but for the last few years have used the Maquires Marine wax. It works but have to admit due to the slow and arduous process for the roof the finish can look less than ideal, sides are fine. Getting the thing chemically clean helps and by that I don't mean the standard car wash. So far the best method I have found is using glass cleaners but not the windex variety, but rather products like Glass Doctor, Invisible Glass and a litany of other companies that produce these streak free glass cleaners. It's almost as though the gel coat allows dust, dirt and debris to become embedded within the surface and a simple wash just doesn't cut it.

Surprised to hear some of you do not like the Rejex method and products. Another company is NuFinish with similar system for about 1/3rd the cost. First I've heard of DuroGloss too. Need to look into that one. In the meantime there has to be a better safer way to do the roof area. FWIW have been using the articulated type of A frame ladders, heavy and cumbersome but work for the job. 

[SeaDawg]

43 minutes ago, routlaw said:

So far the best method I have found is using glass cleaners but not the windex variety, but rather products like Glass Doctor, Invisible Glass and a litany of other companies that produce these streak free glass cleaners. It's almost as though the gel coat allows dust, dirt and debris to become embedded within the surface and a simple wash just doesn't cut it.

Gelcoat is fiberglass , without the mat and roving. It doesn't look like it, but it's still porous. And, brittle, without the glassmat reinforcement. 

As we're aging, I'm also becoming more ladder adverse.

I know a bunch of people have opted for the longevity of ceramic coating. 

I'm still on the fence. And, still on a ladder, from time to time. 

Our Oliver  is 16 seasons young, so.... yeah, we're not as young as we used to be, either.

[routlaw]

@SeaDawg I hear you, well spoken.

 

[dewdev]

I still wash and wax the Oliver and actually do not mind doing it even though I am old and retired. It is easier cleaning and waxing the Ollie than some of the boats I have had that had  serious chalking Gelcoat.

I use Boat Zoap by Sudbury Co. I started using it when I was washing my boat when it was in the water. It is a non-caustic cleaner and is safe to use when the boat is in fresh or slat water. It is biodegradable. A cap full of soap and a couple of gallons of water in a bucket is the formula. What makes the washing easier is I use and extendable pole with a soft bristle brush on the end. Had it from my boating days and bought it at West Marine. The extendable pole makes scrubbing down the Ollie very easy and gets the Ollie very clean. I can even get the brush under the solar collector. So that is my procedure along with using Maquires Professional wax after washing.

[Boudicca908]

I ordered a decent marine paste wax; I'm waiting on the marine cleaner to wash again. I've been lucky during my volunteer stint with US Fish & Wildlife because the big boys have toys -- I use a wash bay and it's better than my normal situation. However, I'm not allowed on a ladder for the time being (post hip replacement) so... I feel the pain that is expressed by everyone here. 

I've used gentle methods of cleaning, to avoid taking off the finish, and I do it by hand. It's a labor of love, is it not? 

[SeaDawg]

@dewdev, and others, we use the west marine pink soap because it's economical (in proper concentration), it doesn't strip wax (in proper concentration), it's biodegradable  and safe to use for boats in the water,  and it has worked for us for a very long time.

Any quality boat soap, labeled to not strip the wax you worked so darned hard to apply, is fine, imo. Don't be a bad bartender/boat tender and "overpour." The best soaps become harsh in high concentration.

And, don't use anything labeled "degreaser" like dawn, awesome, etc.,  unless you plan to rinse, rinse, rinse, and rinse again... maybe even neutralize with a mild base solution,  and then spend hours  applying layers of wax to replace what you've lost.

Washing frequently,  with a clean soft bristle brush, like @dewdev stated, is the key. You can't expect perfect results if you wash once a year, with any product. (Use an extra bucket with just water to rinse the brush, as you go. You'll be amazed at the grime released. That grime would otherwise scrub your wax and gelcoat.)

Any good wax, with uv protection built in is good. Liquid waxes tend to leave a thinner layer of protection,  requiring more frequent application, or multiple layers to build up. Paste waxes are more work. Higher carnuba content sinks more "into the tiny pores" of gelcoat, for a better seal, imo. The hybrid waxes with high carnuba,,and polywhatevers, are a win win. The marvels of modern chemistry. 

Routine cleaning, and waxing, is really the key. Imo.

 

 

 

 

 

[Boudicca908]

2 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

Paste waxes are more work. Higher cannula content sinks more "into the tiny pores" of gelcoat, for a better seal, imo. The hybrid waxes with high carnuba,,and polywhatevers, are a win win.

I feel that rinsing and gently wiping with clear water before I begin helps a lot to get the grit off before I rub it with anything (sponge, rag or brush).

What are you using to apply, and to buff the wax? 

[SeaDawg]

Microfiber cloths and pads. By hand.

Wax on/wax off.

Really  good for upper arm exercise. Lol.

[Boudicca908]

While I'm waiting for my Mystic Grease and tools to arrive for the Zerk maintenance, I forged ahead with the full beauty treatment on my Oliver, using the products that I believe were recommended by @SeaDawg earlier in this thread: 

• Washing: used a Boat Wash that won't strip the existing finish (hand washing with a light spray hose, no pressure washing)
• Drying: used my favorite tool, "The Absorber" towel (I have one for the outside and one for Oliver's shower walls that I use to dry them down)
• First Wax: Collinite No. 870 Marine (the liquid all-in-one wash and wax) -- used about a half of one bottle. 
• Second Wax: Collinite No. 885 Heavy Duty FleetWax (the paste in a can) -- used a bit more than half the can. 

I washed, dried down and did the first coat of wax on day one. Took a day off. Did the second coat of wax on day three. It took me about 6 hours on each of those days, but well worth the time. It's a thing of beauty. My neighbor complained about being blinded. Hahaha

[SeaDawg]

It's a good idea to let wax cure at least 8 to 24 hours between coats. Good job!

[MAX Burner]

On 7/29/2021 at 5:38 PM, SeaDawg said:

I'll stick with wax. 

Same here...

[In Pursuit]

Annually I buff my camper with Meguiar's  Cleaner Wax then use thier Flagship Premium Marine wax; I wash it frequently with Woody Ultra-Pine wash-n-wax boat soap (the best) Good Luck 

[SeaDawg]

I think that's another really good soap. (Woody ultrapine)

Follow directions.  It's great, if not over poured. 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

18 hours ago, In Pursuit said:

Annually I buff my camper with Meguiar's  Cleaner Wax then use thier Flagship Premium Marine wax; I wash it frequently with Woody Ultra-Pine wash-n-wax boat soap (the best) Good Luck 

I haven’t used the Meguiar’s, but wholeheartedly agree with your choice of Woody.  Just used it yesterday.

[StillGame]

I'll add my two cents and say that I hae been using Meguiars pruducts with good results.  I like the rolling warehouse platform idea, but dont have room to store one.  The best item I use during cleaning is a Werner podium ladder ( https://www.wernerco.com/us/products/ladders/step-ladders/PD6200Series/PD6206 ). It gives me the ability get close enough and high enough to do the roof and is easy to store at home.