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Any ideas on warming the bathroom and closet?


Does your bathroom and closet stay cold when running the furnace?  

12 members have voted

  1. 1. How well is the front of your trailer heated by the furnace? Please add comments in the thread.

    • Very well, I have to reduce airflow.
      0
    • Adequate with the register adjusted open
      9
    • Adequate with the register removed
      1
    • Inadequate even with register removed
      2


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I have the rear floor register fully closed, the center one half closed and the bath register completely removed (wide open hole). Airflow appears to be adequate in front but the temperature is very low. Both the bath and closet are always cold. I keep the bath door wide open, and the bath ceiling vent open but not running the fan unless somebody is showering.
 

Do you have this problem? Should I keep the bath vent closed? Please elaborate. I am trying to figure out if this is simply a poor design, with the heat source so far back in the cabin, or if my particular hull has a build problem.

I am researching alternative heat sources for the front, to just help equalize the temperature.

Platinum Cat VENTED heater ..... clunky and large, but efficient and safe, can operate with all windows closed: ..... http://www.ventedcatheater.com/heaters

Radiant electric mat ..... could maybe be bonded to the inside closet wall? Minimal watts, maybe 150, not very effective. .... https://www.amazon.com/SEAL-Radiant-Heating-Ceramic-Self-adhesive/dp/B07HMNFFH3/ref=asc_df_B07H279CWJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242000691778&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2283158861237346692&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027760&hvtargid=pla-620321963479&th=1

Radiant wall panel, 120 volt AC. Interesting technology, no small sized ones. .... https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/heat-storm-radiant-500-watt-electric-wall-mounted-heater-rvj10005.html

Hydronic heating. Impractical to retrofit, $$$$$$. .... https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/alde-hydronic-heating-system-test-and-review/


407D168E-9906-43DE-82B7-A6B935BDB16D.jpeg.4774fcdf42db4088bb4cac01cfdf8a08.jpeg

 

In-duct 12 volt air booster fan. Dangerous, may fool sail switch into thinking there is adequate air moving through the burner, when there is not. OTH a really simple and cheap fix.

What have I missed?  Can we discuss this? I have to admit I am disappointed in the uneven heating in “Mouse”. If I am in the minority, maybe I should open a service ticket.

Thanks

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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We keep the heat register below the curbside bed closed all the time, to try and force heat forward.  When camping with electric hookups, we use the Vornado heater that @Mike and Carol recommende

Set your AC fan to auto and it should work properly.   

I have the rear floor register fully closed, the center one half closed and the bath register completely removed (wide open hole). Airflow appears to be adequate in front but the temperature is very l

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If we’re without 30A and using the furnace we keep the temp at about 60 and the bathroom door open so it’s cool in the bathroom but not much cooler than the rest of the trailer.  If we have 30A and are using our little Vornado heater the bathroom stays warm with the door open.  Honestly, the vent in the bath is a good idea but doesn’t keep the bath that much warmer.

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.7L Cummins Diesel

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Small RV furnaces were never designed to push air from the rear to the front of an RV or around bends.  I would start with the furnace fan and determine everything is tight and the fan is running the proper speed.
 

Then add a small prototype fan at the bathroom discharge and see if it closes the sail switch on the furnace.  My guess it won’t and if the furnace doesn’t initially detect an open sail switch with thermostat demand it fail out.  It kinda has to do that because a stuck sail switch would be bad.

 

Then determine if the new fan helps.  Your goal is to just create a small amount of negative pressure to overcome friction and turbulence in the bend.  I’d try something like a computer fan in a custom housing.
 

 

Edited by Dean
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All we have to do to keep the bathroom warm is leave the door open. No tricks with the vents or fan. If we're taking a shower, we keep it warm in there with a small electric space heater.

 

Just messin' with you about that space heater...

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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Dean - thanks for the suggestions. I had read that thread by GreyGhost but had entirely forgotten about it. I have planned to inspect under the sink, regardless. Maybe I will find an air leak, but I doubt that is the case, or the sink and vanity would be getting unusually warm.

I have looked in there via my round closet inspection port - I can see the plumbing under the faucet but cannot see the far side. It does appear that my installation has room for an inline bilge blower. I am familiar with them since I once owned a power boat.

While I am in there I will disconnect and cap off the unneeded fresh water line that goes to the ball valve behind the toilet. I don’t have a flush toilet and that section of the system is very awkward to winterize. This might even get me started on converting the 18 gallon black tank to fresh..... I would also cut and cap the big black vent from that tank.
 

I will look under the sink when the weather cools, it is blistering hot right now.

John Davies

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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We have found, by adding the vent high in the bathroom wall, that we were able to relieve a lot of the negative pressure in the bathroom. It works extremely well when the bathroom door is closed. This allows the air to return to the return vent easier.  By adjusting the heat vent under the bed to about half closed, the kitchen one about the same and the bath vent full open we got the best results. We also found by straightening out the duct in the basement, from the heater, we eliminated some of the air restrictions and turbulence. The air seems to flow better. As the heat loss from the duct seems to be what keeps the tank space warmer as well as the return vent air we didn't want to insulate. What might help a lot is to close off those hull drain holes, which I am sure allows a lot of cold air intrusions and heat loss. As for the closet? I have noticed how 'cool' it gets, but can't find a reason to waste heat on that static space. Cloths and towels can be taken out a few minutes before?20200304_134414_Film4.thumb.jpg.64e21de589e657dcea2975f0afb1792c.jpg

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Mainiac said:

 We also found by straightening out the duct in the basement, from the heater, we eliminated some of the air restrictions and turbulence. The air seems to flow better. 

Can you elaborate - was the duct twisted, too long, extra bends, not supported? I have a semirigid borescope I plan to send down mine from both the sink area and from the furnace plenum box to see if it is crushed or restricted. I will take pics!
 

I am unsure how it is routed from the galley to the head, does it go straight to the closet and turn, or does it angle across?

If somebody could post a factory build picture of the entire ductwork before the inside floor went down, that would be very helpful.

Thanks,

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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15 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Can you elaborate - was the duct twisted, too long, extra bends, not supported?

All of that. Right where you get in to adjust the water valves. You have to pick up the duct hose to drain the fresh tank? Right there. That duct laying on the pipes I am sure keeps them warm, but the straighter the pipe the easier air flow. It usually  has a lot of twist and bends there. Have you ever gotten underneath and seen all the drain holes? Covered by those directional SS covers? As the furnace sucks in return air, how much cold air is it getting from those vents? Air will move in the path of least resistance. If there are restrictions of a tote or other objects near the return vent I am sure it does. Or if that vent is closed? I also have yet to look at where the furnace actually gets it's return air from, and if there are any restrictions in that area. It is a difficult area to get to and a potential for "quality control" to avoid?

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26 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

I am unsure how it is routed from the galley to the head, does it go straight to the closet and turn, or does it angle across?

The 4" galley run from the furnace reduces down to 3" at a tee behind the galley outlet.  3" flex then runs straight forward and makes a 90 degree turn around the front of the tanks, angling to the front under the shower pan. This flex then turns up inside the vanity, where there is a high-loop taped up to the shell forward of the sink before dropping down into another right angle and attaching to the outlet. That's how it was done in my 2018 anyway.

Closing off the galley outlet completely, along with removing the dampers in the vanity outlet, is the simplest effective approach for increasing flow to the bath. Adding a return vent also helps by relieving back pressure.

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31 minutes ago, bhncb said:

Closing off the galley outlet completely, along with removing the dampers in the vanity outlet, is the simplest effective approach for increasing flow to the bath. 

This is most helpful, I did not realize that the ducts split there. I closed off the rear outlet because it gets too warm for my wife when sleeping. Having it open and the middle one closed may be the best compromise. But I plan to inspect the entire system also to see about improving airflow through the front section especially.

Is the galley split area accessible by removing the bottom drawers? I have had the drawers out years ago but I can’t recall.....

John Davies

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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6 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Is the galley split area accessible by removing the bottom drawers? I have had the drawers out years ago but I can’t recall.....

On mine it’s not.  But a jigsaw can quickly change that situation.  Making an access port under each cabinet shouldn’t effect the cabinet integrity nor would it be visible. You’d want to make a lightweight cover of some sort so that something doesn’t bounce out of one of your drawers and end up in the hull space. 

I’ve had it on my list to do both that and create an access port in the closet floor. I may need to do both soon since I’m planning to insulate all the plumbing lines. Those access ports might even be enough to allow me to replace the flex duct with rigid, which might be a good project to tackle at the same time. 

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Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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Posted (edited)

Found this earlier thread, with lots of great discussion. Why the heck can’t I remember these threads? Getting old.....

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2698-acheat-system-contamination-and-replacing-flex-heating-ducts/

From that thread, this pic is just what I was looking for:

311CE8C2-09C2-4980-9892-502DDD68C6E8.thumb.jpeg.9d0324af7799ddab098cbb598635b742.jpeg

Note the small white pex water line on top of the fresh tank, indicating this is the latest configuration with the fresh water pickup drawing water through suction instead of through that pesky bottom port the earlier (pre-Hull Number 300 ish?) models have.

If we are getting into sawing access holes and replacing ducts, I guess this project should wait until after the camping season has ended. I could do my black tank mod at the same time, it would likely make running a new 1/2” pex water line to the pump area easier with the rear ducts completely out of the way.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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8 minutes ago, Overland said:

a jigsaw can quickly change that situation.

Oliver has been known to cut a hole and install a deck plate when repair access for the fresh tank overflow is required. There is a lot of dead space under the cabinets that's ripe for cleaver picking. Just be mindful of the access panel heights so they don't interfere with the draw bottoms.

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Posted (edited)

I just noticed this, the duct in that pic has been stepped on and squashed, I wonder how often that happens. I hope the technician trimmed off that section. I also sure hope that upward loop at top right isn’t in the final installation.

2EE83878-629C-42BC-8008-D31D0F347DDC.jpeg.50d6f47229c5139d2b814adf0a0a7e45.jpeg

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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1 hour ago, John E Davies said:

Found this earlier thread, with lots of great discussion. Why the heck can’t I remember these threads? Getting old.....

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2698-acheat-system-contamination-and-replacing-flex-heating-ducts/

From that thread, this pic is just what I was looking for:

311CE8C2-09C2-4980-9892-502DDD68C6E8.thumb.jpeg.9d0324af7799ddab098cbb598635b742.jpeg

Note the small white pex water line on top of the fresh tank, indicating this is the latest configuration with the fresh water pickup drawing water through suction instead of through that pesky bottom port the earlier (pre-Hull Number 300 ish?) models have.

If we are getting into sawing access holes and replacing ducts, I guess this project should wait until after the camping season has ended. I could do my black tank mod at the same time, it would likely make running a new 1/2” pex water line to the pump area easier with the rear ducts completely out of the way.

John Davies

Spokane WA

John, I believe this is all about my camper, hull #267.  While I have not been able to camp many times since I bought it, I was able to travel to Washington, DC and camped 3 nights both ways.  I believe all of the fiberglass may have worked its self out of the ducks, because I found none in the cabin during the trip.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Maniac,

Where did you source that high vent in the bathroom?  Seems like a great idea.  I'm going to ask Oliver if they would incorporate into my build but would bet it's too much of a "one off" thing.

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On 8/16/2020 at 1:21 PM, John E Davies said:

 

Hydronic heating. Impractical to retrofit, $$$$$$. .... https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/alde-hydronic-heating-system-test-and-review/


407D168E-9906-43DE-82B7-A6B935BDB16D.jpeg.4774fcdf42db4088bb4cac01cfdf8a08.jpeg

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John Davies

Spokane WA

When we were still looking at RV options, we considered a Cirrus (nuCamp) pickup camper.  I was impressed . . . . . especially with the bathroom design (shown above) . . . . . . . . . awesome for a camper, but I'm not keen on the Alde heating system.   Moot point, though, as we decided a pickup camper wasn't what we wanted . .  . . . . . I think nuCamp makes better than average RVs, but the Tab400 was too small and the Avia too big.  For us, the Oliver Elite II is "just right", says Goldilocks . . . . . . . .  Hmmm . . . . . maybe we should name her "Goldilocks" :classic_wink:

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; taking delivery December 7, 2020

2013 F350 3.2l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

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2 hours ago, GAP said:

Hey Maniac,

Where did you source that high vent in the bathroom?  Seems like a great idea.  I'm going to ask Oliver if they would incorporate into my build but would bet it's too much of a "one off" thing.

Not the same, but I heard Oliver is installing a different bathroom roof vent in the 2021 model.  Maxxfan, but don't know the model.  No matter which model, it should be bigger than the previous little round fan, so that's good.

Edited by Susan Huff
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Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; taking delivery December 7, 2020

2013 F350 3.2l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

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31 minutes ago, Susan Huff said:

 I think nuCamp makes better than average RVs, but the Tab400 was too small and the Avia too big.

We looked at the Tab 400 when they first came out (out of curiousity!).  We decided the same, some nice features, easy to tow but too small, especially the bath with the fold down Sink.  Not a cold weather camper, either.  Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.7L Cummins Diesel

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, GAP said:

Hey Maniac,

Where did you source that high vent in the bathroom?  Seems like a great idea.  I'm going to ask Oliver if they would incorporate into my build but would bet it's too much of a "one off" thing.

It was a one off. Hole saw from Harbor Freight. And some vent covers. About a half hour job.

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Mainiac, is this the vent cover you used? X2

Or, the second one?

 

Screenshot_20201012-202901_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20201012-203336_Chrome.jpg

Edited by SeaDawg

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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15 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

Not the same, but I heard Oliver is installing a different bathroom roof vent in the 2021 model.  Maxxfan, but don't know the model.  No matter which model, it should be bigger than the previous little round fan, so that's good.

I’ll bet you a cup of coffee that it will be either of these MaxxFan models if in fact your information is correct.

Mossey

952BAAC0-B11A-4D27-A19B-6C693D03AEFC.thumb.jpeg.472dbc3add832a3805479b1041b45e52.jpeg

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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL   LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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11 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Mainiac, is this the vent cover you used? X2

Or, the second one?

 

 

It was the first one. Think it was around $7, but I might have paid shipping. Really thought the second one had a better mechanical advantage, but the 'frugal' me didn't want to spend the extra on an unknown application. As it turns out the first one is great. Was going to use a static vent on the inside, but the holes didn't line up. The static vent would work fine, as I find I never need to close. The vent also works well when using the bathroom exhaust vent and the window is closed.

20200304_134633_Film4.jpg

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