Dexter Axle Bearings

[2008RN]

I have never owned a bearing arbor/bearing driver set.  I have always used a brass punch to remove and set the cones. and a piece of wood for the Seal. Does any one know of a decent quality driver set?  

Thanks

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, 2008RN said:

I have never owned a bearing arbor/bearing driver set.  I have always used a brass punch to remove and set the cones. and a piece of wood for the Seal. Does any one know of a decent quality driver set?  

Once you have used the proper tools you won’t want to go back. This is currently unavailable from Amazon, maybe another source will have it.

 

ABN Bearing Press Bushing Driver Set - Seal Driver Set Bearing Driver Set Bearing Press Kit, 18-65mm, 74mm Metric Discs

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Geronimo John]

On 10/7/2021 at 3:29 AM, FrankC said:

On 10/7/2021 at 3:15 AM, topgun2 said:

Certainly the sets I bought are "Made in China" but to get me back on the road until I get home - I don't care. 

 

I’m taking the same approach.  I’m keeping the knock-off Timken sets and some grease in my spares/tool kit as an emergency set to use on the road if ever needed.   I’ll use genuine Tinkens from an authorized distributor when all the bearings eventually do need replaced. 

Excellent.  But be sure to have a couple cans of break cleaner (I like CRC RED), rags and tools too!  

[Geronimo John]

That's a nice set for having at a shop. 

However, I prefer a smaller less comprehensive set for carrying around in Ollie.  

Even with this set, you don't need 80% of it just for Ollie.  I recommend servicing your bearing set and set aside only that you need.  Saves weight and space.

GJ

[Frank C]

I picked up this bearing driver set from McMaster Carr.   Lists country of origin as United States.   A little more expensive than the comparable set at Harbor Freight but I try to buy Made in USA when possible, even if it costs a little more.  

[Geronimo John]

I will always look to buy USA made.  But the cost delta has to be reasonable.

In this case it is a tool that will get used annually.  McMaster Carr cost is $51.  For the current on sale Amazon Chinese Knock-off the cost is reduced to $19  (See below).  Double the cost is is beyond my "reasonable line" this time.

GJ

[Frank C]

39 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

I will always look to buy USA made.  But the cost delta has to be reasonable.

In this case it is a tool that will get used annually.  McMaster Carr cost is $51.  For the current on sale Amazon Chinese Knock-off the cost is reduced to $19  (See below).  Double the cost is is beyond my "reasonable line" this time.

GJ

Yeah, the price on this was high but I’ve also bought plenty of cheap Harbor Freight stuff to offset it. 🙂.   Here’s the company that makes the set sold by McMaster Carr.  An interesting history to the company.

https://www.lislecorp.com/

[Jps190]

On 3/26/2022 at 12:51 PM, csevel said:

The bearings I received from Summit have the QR code as in the right photo and also have raised 'Timken' black print below it.  I scanned the bar code from the box on the WBA app.  Not sure what else I'm supposed to do besides wait for a reply from Timken as I don't know what 'suspicious' is supposed to mean.  The app is fairly basic and not really informative.    Summit Racing has been highly recommended by forum members here and is supposed to be an authorized distributor.  Just wanted to give others a heads up if these aren't authentic.  

I would delete the app and reinstall it.  When you scan the code make sure you cover up the bar code and only scan the QR code.  The ones I bought from summit did the same things until I took these steps. Also if you choose offline check you you can scan all the codes at once and then hit validate all codes.  Works a little faster that way.

John

[geO]

I have researched several video’s on how to repack the bearings on my Oliver and am looking forward to this task. I own a 2017 Elite II and with all the different numbers I’ve seen can someone tell me what Timken bearings and seals I will need for my model? Sorry if it has been posted but I get lost in the numbers. I figure I would replace them since they got over 60k on them.

[dewdev]

geO:

Here is the informatioin: 

Timken Outer Bearing:            SET4   

Timken Inner Bearing:             SET17 

National Seal                             473336 

Be sure to buy real Timken bearings not China knock-off's (packaging looks the same)

 

[mossemi]

39 minutes ago, geO said:

I figure I would replace them since they got over 60k on them.

I don’t know much about bearings, but I do know that I would buy the same bearings you have gotten 60k miles out of.  At 60k miles, they have passed my quality test no matter who made them or where they came from.

Just saying,

Mossey

[geO]

Mossey, thank you very much for the info. I'll try my luck with google and find the real ones. My bearing are the original when I picked it up.

[Frank C]

If you do buy replacement bearings, make sure you get genuine Timken parts.  There are a lot of counterfeit “Timken” bearings out there, especially on Amazon.  Here’s the link to the Timken site to find an authorized distributor.   And the complete bearing assembly needs to be replaced, which means pulling out the old seal and knocking out the old outer races that are pressed into the hub.  So a few special tools are needed.   I just replaced mine.  I’ll do another post with the tools that I used to make the job easier. 

https://www.timken.com/contact-distributors/

 

 

[Frank C]

The Dexter video is very helpful.

https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI

As mentioned before the complete bearing sets must be replaced, you can’t leave the old races in the hub.  And the seal and grease cap must also be replaced.   So new bearings, seal and grease cap on each axle.

Here’s the tools/etc. that I used for my recent replacement of the bearings on all 4 wheels:

Breaker bar & 3/4” lug nut socket for loosening the lug nuts to remove wheel.

Screwdriver to pry off old grease cap.

You may have either a spring clip or cotter pin as the axle nut retainer.  Mine have the spring clip that can be reused.   Cotter pins should be replaced. 

The axle nut should come off by hand since it’s only supposed to be finger tight at final assembly. 

Seal puller from Harbor Freight to remove old seal.

Brass and steel punches to drive out old outer races.

Brakleen to remove all old grease from hub and axle spindle, and clean the inside of the brake drum while you’re at it.  Also check your brake pad thickness while you have the brake drum off, Dexter says 1/16” minimum thickness for the pads.  

A bearing driver set to install the new outer races.  

A good high quality grease to pack the new bearings.

A dead blow mallet.

A wooden block to install the new seals.

A 1-1/2” socket for the axle nut.

Torque wrenches for the axle nut and lug nuts.  I use two different ones because of the difference in torque settings.

The axle nut is to be torqued to 50 ft-lbs. to seat the bearings, then backed off and finger tightened, then install the retainer clip or cotter pin.

The lug nuts are 120 ft-lbs.

I don’t have one single torque wrench that can cover that range for the axle nuts and the lug nuts, so two torque wrenches in my tool box.

Grease cap driver tool to install new grease caps properly. 

Follow the Dexter video.

And I carry all of this with me, including spare bearings, seals and dust caps, in my road tool kit, along with a heavy duty scissor jack, a full ratchet/socket set, small air compressor, and other common hand tools.  Flat tires and wheel bearing failures have been common points of failure that leave people stranded. I like to be prepared.  Mad Max was the Road Warrior,  call me “The Road Worrier” 🙂.

 

[John E Davies]

38 minutes ago, FrankC said:

 

 

 

 

That was a great post. Thanks! FYI if you buy the special tool needed to remove your standard water heater pressure relief valve (which also works on your home WH) that axle cap driver nests beautifully inside it, to minimize space. Wrap both with stretchy mover’s wrap so they don’t rattle around in your spares kit….

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Geronimo John]

6 hours ago, FrankC said:

 And the seal and grease cap must also be replaced.   So new bearings, seal and grease cap on each axle.

I have not seen any Dexter requirements to replace the grease cap during routine service. 

HOWEVER, as verified by both Jason and Dexter, they seem to have in service more than few grease caps that are defective and have a propensity of falling off.  For our Ollies, they get trapped inside of the wheel rim decorative cover where they rattle around.  With a few miles, they will bash out the wheel rim small "hub cap" (another reason to RTV the decorative wheel hub caps to the decorative wheel rim decorative cover as JD has suggested in a previous post!). 

Apparently more than a few Dexter OEM grease caps have a diameter is just a tad too small and even if properly applied, can come off.  This will expose your wheel bearings to dust and moisture... especially if you have chosen to run your rig without the little hub cap as some have chosen to do to facilitate monitoring bearing hub temperature with a heat meter.  

The solution is to purchase heavier duty grease caps.  Or call Dexter and they may send you a set.  If not, I like the heavy duty NAPA version.  

 

[Frank C]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

I have not seen any Dexter requirements to replace the grease cap during routine service. 

HOWEVER, as verified by both Jason and Dexter, they seem to have in service more than few grease caps that are defective and have a propensity of falling off.  For our Ollies, they get trapped inside of the wheel rim decorative cover where they rattle around.  With a few miles, they will bash out the wheel rim small "hub cap" (another reason to RTV the decorative wheel hub caps to the decorative wheel rim decorative cover as JD has suggested in a previous post!). 

Apparently more than a few Dexter OEM grease caps have a diameter is just a tad too small and even if properly applied, can come off.  This will expose your wheel bearings to dust and moisture... especially if you have chosen to run your rig without the little hub cap as some have chosen to do to facilitate monitoring bearing hub temperature with a heat meter.  

The solution is to purchase heavier duty grease caps.  Or call Dexter and they may send you a set.  If not, I like the heavy duty NAPA version.  

 

Agreed that Dexter doesn’t say to use a new grease cap, but the caps are soft plated steel and the steel deforms a bit for a press fit into the hub when pounded into place, so the next time it’s reused it’ll have slightly less interference for the press fit and is more likely to fall out.  I prefer to install new ones each time now as cheap insurance.   I think a lot of the Oliver complaints about grease caps falling off are due to multiple reuses of the same grease caps over and over during service.   I had one grease cap fall off within a few hundred miles after our wheel bearing repack service done at Oliver last year, and it knocked off the little logo decorative center cap as well and that was lost. 

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, FrankC said:

I had one grease cap fall off within a few hundred miles after our wheel bearing repack service done at Oliver last year, and it knocked off the little logo decorative center cap as well and that was lost. 

This very thing has happened to me twice over the years.  A phone call or Service ticket results in receiving a new grease cap and center hub "plug" within a couple of days.

However, I too have resorted to heavier duty grease caps and I also carry a couple of spares with me on the road.  Ones like THESE are easier to seat while out on the road.

Bill

[geO]

14 hours ago, FrankC said:

If you do buy replacement bearings, make sure you get genuine Timken parts.  There are a lot of counterfeit “Timken” bearings out there, especially on Amazon.  Here’s the link to the Timken site to find an authorized distributor.   And the complete bearing assembly needs to be replaced, which means pulling out the old seal and knocking out the old outer races that are pressed into the hub.  So a few special tools are needed.   I just replaced mine.  I’ll do another post with the tools that I used to make the job easier. 

https://www.timken.com/contact-distributors/

 

 

FrankC, thanks for the informative info and your write up of tools needs is very helpful!

 

Thanks!

[Geronimo John]

On 4/17/2022 at 11:29 AM, topgun2 said:

However, I too have resorted to heavier duty grease caps and I also carry a couple of spares with me on the road.  Ones like THESE are easier to seat while out on the road.

Bill and Frank:  Always good to know the facts behind the observations.  So bottom line is that Dexter's grease caps can't tolerate (in my case three) annual services.  Now that's what I would rate as a very subpar product. 

Bill:  I noted your using the REDLINE heavier grease cap.  The model you posted appears to be for the EZ Lube hub which certainly was not stock on your trailer.  Just wondering why you don't use the REDLNE RG04-020 1.986 OD Drive-In grease cap?  My thought line is that a solid grease cap would likely be stronger than one with a huge rubber plug in the center.  Your thoughts?

Thanks guys.... LOVE your thoughts and experiences.

Geronimo John 

[topgun2]

10 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Bill:  I noted your using the REDLINE heavier grease cap.  The model you posted appears to be for the EZ Lube hub which certainly was not stock on your trailer.  Just wondering why you don't use the REDLNE RG04-020 1.986 OD Drive-In grease cap?  My thought line is that a solid grease cap would likely be stronger than one with a huge rubber plug in the center.  Your thoughts?

Yep - you're right - the EZ lub hub was not stock on my Ollie and I still have the stock hubs

There was no MAGIC in choosing the grease caps other than thinking about what would be easy to replace on the road and what just might last a bit longer - the center rubber plugs basically had nothing to do with the decision other than the lack of a "steel" center just might mean that the side walls and/or the outer rim of the caps would be constructed a bit stronger as compared to a "normal" grease cap.  In addition, I felt that the non-rounded edges of these grease caps would allow for easier installation with or without a block of wood - it would be easier to gently tap a hammer around that edge versus doing the same on a more rounded edge.  Certainly not "rocket science".

Bill

 

[Rivernerd]

On 4/19/2022 at 8:46 PM, Geronimo John said:

My thought line is that a solid grease cap would likely be stronger than one with a huge rubber plug in the center.  Your thoughts?

FWIW, my raft trailer has the EZ Lube grease caps because it has an EZ Lube axle.  I have never had one of the "huge rubber plugs" in the center get lost or fail, even though I take my raft trailer on much rougher roads, to wilderness rivers, than I ever plan to take my Oliver on.  Given that experience, and the comments in this thread, I plan to buy a set of the EZ Lube grease caps to keep as spares for our Elite II once we pick it up.

[topgun2]

33 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Given that experience, and the comments in this thread, I plan to buy a set of the EZ Lube grease caps to keep as spares for our Elite II once we pick it up.

Exactly. 

The only downside that I have thought of with these caps is that a person with ill intent could always fairly easily get those rubber plugs out.  But - given the other things that this kind of person could mess with I'm not at all worried.

Bill

[routlaw]

Just curious having read through this thread a couple of times. How much or many tools and extra parts do you all carry around with you while camping/traveling? It would appear quite a bit requiring a substantial tool chest. Thus far I've been able to get by with a modest size tool box and usually keep it stored in the rear basement storage area accessed from the outside. From what most of you are describing your tool box or chest would seemingly be carried in the back of a truck bed or equivalent. Doesn't sound like it would fit the rear storage area. 

This also begs the question, aside from Oliver owners, is this level road trip maintenance preparedness normal?

Finally how long does it take each of you (approximately) to perform these maintenance procedures? 

[Frank C]

2 hours ago, routlaw said:

Just curious having read through this thread a couple of times. How much or many tools and extra parts do you all carry around with you while camping/traveling? It would appear quite a bit requiring a substantial tool chest. Thus far I've been able to get by with a modest size tool box and usually keep it stored in the rear basement storage area accessed from the outside. From what most of you are describing your tool box or chest would seemingly be carried in the back of a truck bed or equivalent. Doesn't sound like it would fit the rear storage area. 

This also begs the question, aside from Oliver owners, is this level road trip maintenance preparedness normal?

Finally how long does it take each of you (approximately) to perform these maintenance procedures? 

Flat tires and wheel bearing failures are the things that can leave you stranded.   Waiting many hours or even days for Good Sam or some other roadside assistance isn’t something I care to do.  Actually met a couple who were stranded and lived in their 5th wheel trailer for 3 days on the side of I-70 waiting for a replacement wheel bearing.  I believe in being prepared   Probably not the norm for all Ollie owners but I don’t want to be stranded waiting for help for some issue that I can fix myself.  

So I carry quite a bit of tools, parts and supplies.

A Dewalt portable tool set in a carrying case with full ratchet/socket sets in 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” drive sizes, open end wrenches, US and metric Allen bit and torx bit drivers, screw drivers, etc.

Misc pliers, wire cutters/strippers, large crescent wrench, hammer.

An electrical multi-meter for diagnosing electrical issues.  Spare fuses, crimp connectors, etc.  

Torque wrenches for the lug nuts and axle nuts (different torque ranges needed, one wrench won’t cover both).

All the special tools needed as described in earlier posts in this thread for a complete bearing replacement and grease repack if needed, such as a seal puller, drift punches, dead blow mallet, bearing driver set, 1-1/2” socket for the axle nut, grease cap driver tool.

Brakeleen for cleaning old grease out.

Redline CV-2 Bearing grease to repack the bearings.

4 complete sets of bearings (Timken Set4 and Set17), seals and grease caps, enough to service all 4 wheels if needed.  

A grease gun with Lucas red-n-tacky grease for the suspension zerk fittings.

A large military surplus HUMVEE scissor jack that’s perfect for the Ollie.

A few 12” & 18” long pieces of 4”x4” lumber to use for cribbing with the jack to make lifting the Ollie much quicker.

A small DC air compressor.

And a few other things that I’ve probably forgotten to mention.

All kept in toolboxes in the bed of the pickup truck.

I just did my annual wheel bearing service (which included replacing the original bearings) took about 4 hours total to do all 4 axles plus grease the suspension Zerk fittings.  But I was in no rush.

Maybe an extreme for what to carry on the road, but I’m much more comfortable traveling/towing the Ollie knowing I am prepared.