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Another Andersen WDH idea


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Cool do you have a link or did you source them locally? Size? Do they loosen at all when towing? You could drill a hole in the free end (inside the opening) on each turnbuckle for a safety pin.

FYi these are available with built-in clevises, so you can get rid of those four shackles, eliminating that many wear/ failure points. I am not sure what is the appropriate rating, can you comment?

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John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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I used 3/4’ Χ 9’ galvanized turnbuckles. Checked several local hardware stores but they did not have them in galvanized, found them in Amazon for around $ 50. Just returned from a 450 mile trip and did not see any loosening issues at all. I will keep an eye and if I need to I would prefer to add a backup nut. If I drill a hole for a pin it may weaken the SWL ratings. I saw the build in clevises but the 3/4’ pin of the clevise would not go through the Andersen provided chains ( the OD of the clevise pin is a bit too large. As a matter of fact the 3/8” shackles need to be tapped gently in the eye of the 3/4’ turnbuckle.

You could of course use the 5/8” X 6” that you suggest, dont see a problem with it  but I opted for the 3/4”

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I too am interested in what the tension ratings are of that hardware, and what is required for safe use with the Anderson hitch (which clearly has to handle significant tension on those chains).

 

Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II hull #709

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3 hours ago, Nick and Linda Stratigakis said:

 If I drill a hole for a pin it may weaken the SWL ratings.

Thanks for the info. If you drill a hole inside the body, there is not any load on the threaded rod there. Only the area that contacts the female threads, and the area under tension, would be affected. That inner section has zero load on it.

I sent an email to Andersen Customer Service asking about this, most likely they will say do not do this, you’ll shoot yer eye out! but maybe not. If they reply I will post a followup.

John Davies

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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Andersen Customer Service replied promptly, he first asked if the turnbuckles were going to be used for adjusting chain tension. I replied, no, they were just for adding slack to ease getting the whaletail installed, then the turnbuckles would be reset to the previous position(s) before lowering the tongue back down. The NUTS would be used for setting tension. He replied:

The minimum weight rating would be 2,100 lbs 

And he did not say, “Don’t do this”, which is encouraging. And he did not mention adding a safety pin of any kind.  So a smaller one would be technically OK but the bigger one would fit better because of the large size of the Andersen chain links.

That open ended one I showed earlier has a 3/8” diameter bolt at each end and very long “jaws”, it should work fine. I ordered two for $30 and will see how they work out. With a 3500 pound working load limit, they will give a 50% safety factor over the minimum stated by Andersen. I will add to this helpful thread with pics if they do, or if they don’t😬

Indusco 93900241 Hot Dipped Drop Forged Galvanized Steel Jaw and Jaw Turnbuckle, 3500 lbs Working Load Limit, 5/8" Threaded Diameter x 6" Take Up, 15-1/2" Length

Buyer beware - the price for a two pack was higher than selecting one and adding two of those to the Amazon cart. A good reason to buy these over no name China made ones: Support your local sailing ship supplier. These may be fabricated overseas, but the QC is probably a lot better.

“In the early 1900's, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings was in the Port of Baltimore. No matter the season, when the square-riggers, coastal traders and bay boats of the day arrived in the harbor, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings would be there to greet them. Indusco brings the same commitment of dependability and service years later. In addition to serving the marine industry, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings also supplies high quality products to industrial suppliers, contractors, mining companies, logging operations, transportation companies, farms and military operations throughout the world. Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings has become America's fabricator and supplier of wire rope and rigging gear.“

John Davies

Spokane WA

  • Like 1

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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I have found it is fairly easy to back off the nuts on the trailer, get slack in the chain, remove whales tail. Do the reverse when hooking up. Count the threads on the bolt so they are even. Actualy really easy

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  • 2 weeks later...

I plan to start a new thread at some point, after I have hitched up, adjusted the parts and road tested it, which may be a while, but here are some pics of my Amazon Indusco turnbuckle posted above. FYI my Andersen installation is NOT factory, I deviated from Oliver’s standards and the front chain section may not be the same length as yours. Measure to make sure! Otherwise you might have to cut some chain links.

My front chain section measures about 15.5 inches end to end, to the inside of the last links. I set the turnbuckle to that length, and I ended up with 2” of free threads both inside and outside of the housing, which will allow me to loosen each chain 4 “ or more. It’s like the turnbuckle was designed for this application😬

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The turnbuckles come with thin free spinning nuts. I installed 1/2”-13 stainless nylocks for safety, They just fit, with no room for washers.

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The heat shrink tubing has not yet been shrunk, it will provide a visual reference when tightening the housings back again. I will post a few more pics and some commentary in that new thread, but this should get a member started if you want to do this easy easy mod.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

  • Like 2

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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29E6C9F1-EF86-4980-9EC8-25F15E6770ED.thumb.jpeg.f45a7134509b1d19f35ac092bcf04bdb.jpeg

John,

Is there a reason you left the chain couple in place for you mod? I saw another thread where several folks had them failing and thought this might be a good idea to replace that piece also?

We pick ours up end of July and I have no experience with the Anderson yet. 

Vincent, Ohio | Hull # 1182  2014 Ford F150 EcoBoost, Max Towing PKG

KYMSOHTNmed.jpg

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In my jaded opinion - the best mod is to not need the Anderson - but- as has been stated - just backing of the nut worked fine- with less hassle. I am always amazed at the improvements Oliver owners engineer and develop. Good job folks.

RB

Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"
ALAZARCACOFLIDMTNVNMOKORTNTXUTWAWYd56201

 

 

 

 

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