Another Andersen WDH idea

[Nick and Linda Stratigakis]

Here is another option for the Andersen WDH. I found it easy to connect and disconnect in just minutes by turning the two turbbuckles . Black marker on threads provide a guide to the correct tension when ready to connect again.

 

[John E Davies]

Cool do you have a link or did you source them locally? Size? Do they loosen at all when towing? You could drill a hole in the free end (inside the opening) on each turnbuckle for a safety pin.

FYi these are available with built-in clevises, so you can get rid of those four shackles, eliminating that many wear/ failure points. I am not sure what is the appropriate rating, can you comment?

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Nick and Linda Stratigakis]

I used 3/4’ Χ 9’ galvanized turnbuckles. Checked several local hardware stores but they did not have them in galvanized, found them in Amazon for around $ 50. Just returned from a 450 mile trip and did not see any loosening issues at all. I will keep an eye and if I need to I would prefer to add a backup nut. If I drill a hole for a pin it may weaken the SWL ratings. I saw the build in clevises but the 3/4’ pin of the clevise would not go through the Andersen provided chains ( the OD of the clevise pin is a bit too large. As a matter of fact the 3/8” shackles need to be tapped gently in the eye of the 3/4’ turnbuckle.

You could of course use the 5/8” X 6” that you suggest, dont see a problem with it  but I opted for the 3/4”

[Jim_Oker]

I too am interested in what the tension ratings are of that hardware, and what is required for safe use with the Anderson hitch (which clearly has to handle significant tension on those chains).

 

[John E Davies]

3 hours ago, Nick and Linda Stratigakis said:

 If I drill a hole for a pin it may weaken the SWL ratings.

Thanks for the info. If you drill a hole inside the body, there is not any load on the threaded rod there. Only the area that contacts the female threads, and the area under tension, would be affected. That inner section has zero load on it.

I sent an email to Andersen Customer Service asking about this, most likely they will say do not do this, you’ll shoot yer eye out! but maybe not. If they reply I will post a followup.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

Andersen Customer Service replied promptly, he first asked if the turnbuckles were going to be used for adjusting chain tension. I replied, no, they were just for adding slack to ease getting the whaletail installed, then the turnbuckles would be reset to the previous position(s) before lowering the tongue back down. The NUTS would be used for setting tension. He replied:

“The minimum weight rating would be 2,100 lbs ”

And he did not say, “Don’t do this”, which is encouraging. And he did not mention adding a safety pin of any kind.  So a smaller one would be technically OK but the bigger one would fit better because of the large size of the Andersen chain links.

That open ended one I showed earlier has a 3/8” diameter bolt at each end and very long “jaws”, it should work fine. I ordered two for $30 and will see how they work out. With a 3500 pound working load limit, they will give a 50% safety factor over the minimum stated by Andersen. I will add to this helpful thread with pics if they do, or if they don’t😬

Indusco 93900241 Hot Dipped Drop Forged Galvanized Steel Jaw and Jaw Turnbuckle, 3500 lbs Working Load Limit, 5/8" Threaded Diameter x 6" Take Up, 15-1/2" Length

Buyer beware - the price for a two pack was higher than selecting one and adding two of those to the Amazon cart. A good reason to buy these over no name China made ones: Support your local sailing ship supplier. These may be fabricated overseas, but the QC is probably a lot better.

“In the early 1900's, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings was in the Port of Baltimore. No matter the season, when the square-riggers, coastal traders and bay boats of the day arrived in the harbor, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings would be there to greet them. Indusco brings the same commitment of dependability and service years later. In addition to serving the marine industry, Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings also supplies high quality products to industrial suppliers, contractors, mining companies, logging operations, transportation companies, farms and military operations throughout the world. Indusco Wire Rope & Fittings has become America's fabricator and supplier of wire rope and rigging gear.“

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Nick and Linda Stratigakis]

John, thanks for posting the answer from Andersen and happy with the reply. You will be surprised how this alternative method can make your life easier (connect and disconnect the trailer) after the initial hookup. 
 

[Aluecker]

I have found it is fairly easy to back off the nuts on the trailer, get slack in the chain, remove whales tail. Do the reverse when hooking up. Count the threads on the bolt so they are even. Actualy really easy

[John E Davies]

I plan to start a new thread at some point, after I have hitched up, adjusted the parts and road tested it, which may be a while, but here are some pics of my Amazon Indusco turnbuckle posted above. FYI my Andersen installation is NOT factory, I deviated from Oliver’s standards and the front chain section may not be the same length as yours. Measure to make sure! Otherwise you might have to cut some chain links.

My front chain section measures about 15.5 inches end to end, to the inside of the last links. I set the turnbuckle to that length, and I ended up with 2” of free threads both inside and outside of the housing, which will allow me to loosen each chain 4 “ or more. It’s like the turnbuckle was designed for this application😬

The turnbuckles come with thin free spinning nuts. I installed 1/2”-13 stainless nylocks for safety, They just fit, with no room for washers.

The heat shrink tubing has not yet been shrunk, it will provide a visual reference when tightening the housings back again. I will post a few more pics and some commentary in that new thread, but this should get a member started if you want to do this easy easy mod.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Shawna and Scott]

John,

Is there a reason you left the chain couple in place for you mod? I saw another thread where several folks had them failing and thought this might be a good idea to replace that piece also?

We pick ours up end of July and I have no experience with the Anderson yet. 

[BackofBeyond]

In my jaded opinion - the best mod is to not need the Anderson - but- as has been stated - just backing of the nut worked fine- with less hassle. I am always amazed at the improvements Oliver owners engineer and develop. Good job folks.

RB

[Dennis and Melissa]

On 6/8/2022 at 8:33 AM, Aluecker said:

I have found it is fairly easy to back off the nuts on the trailer, get slack in the chain, remove whales tail. Do the reverse when hooking up. Count the threads on the bolt so they are even. Actualy really easy

I may end up doing this. What are the downsides if the 2 sides aren’t set perfectly?

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Dennis and Melissa said:

I may end up doing this. What are the downsides if the 2 sides aren’t set perfectly?

Perfectly can't happen, but the WDH works best when set properly.

Reading page 11 Section 5 of the Andersen WDH, "HAND-TIGHTEN both Tension Nuts as much as you can... using a socket... tighten both Tension Nuts another 3-4 threads." Later they write, "Although it is not crucial" tighten or loosen each the same amount. 

When you get hand tight, the # threads left and right may not be the same. Could be the bomerang mount is not even and the bracket installation might not be equal left and right. Drive down a straight road a mile +/- and keep the steering straight ahead for 100 yards just prior to parking. I have a favorite street in our neighborhood to achieve this.

You can start over with the hand tightening... Or just make sure each red rubber bushing is slightly bulging the same small amount. Eventually you should know for your hitch what is the correct number of threads left and right, and just do that without thinking.

You want to see that level line, from the front wheels of TV to rear bumper of TT. How tight depends on how much weight distribution you need. Tighten the two nuts some MORE equally and the rear of the TV will come higher, nose more down. Loosen and the opposite. They cover this in the next section 6 of the instructions.

None of this will work right if your Andersen hitch is not mounted at the proper height. Start with Section 2, regarding hitch height. When set properly, ours runs so nicely down the road. I can certainly feel the difference when I tow without using it. A lot of bouncing in the rear.

[Rivernerd]

5 hours ago, Dennis and Melissa said:

may end up doing this. What are the downsides if the 2 sides aren’t set perfectly?

I have towed our Elite II about 3K miles with an Andersen WD hitch.  In my experience, so long as both chains feel taut,  the Andersen hitch works just fine.  "Perfect" is not required; close is good enough.

[Aluecker]

On 3/18/2024 at 4:00 PM, Dennis and Melissa said:

I may end up doing this. What are the downsides if the 2 sides aren’t set perfectly?

I just saw a this. We just pull out somewhere flat. Straight and relatively level and hook them up and tighten.

[dmtaylor2]

 

[Ronbrink]

@dmtaylor2, you my be on to something! I have zero experience with the Anderson WDH, but have used the lever load binders in the past and still have some at the house if a need arises. I strongly suggest you secure the level arm, for ‘peace of mind’ if nothing else. 

[DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI]

On 3/18/2024 at 8:10 PM, jd1923 said:

Perfectly can't happen, but the WDH works best when set properly.

Reading page 11 Section 5 of the Andersen WDH, "HAND-TIGHTEN both Tension Nuts as much as you can... using a socket... tighten both Tension Nuts another 3-4 threads." Later they write, "Although it is not crucial" tighten or loosen each the same amount. 

When you get hand tight, the # threads left and right may not be the same. Could be the bomerang mount is not even and the bracket installation might not be equal left and right. Drive down a straight road a mile +/- and keep the steering straight ahead for 100 yards just prior to parking. I have a favorite street in our neighborhood to achieve this.

You can start over with the hand tightening... Or just make sure each red rubber bushing is slightly bulging the same small amount. Eventually you should know for your hitch what is the correct number of threads left and right, and just do that without thinking.

You want to see that level line, from the front wheels of TV to rear bumper of TT. How tight depends on how much weight distribution you need. Tighten the two nuts some MORE equally and the rear of the TV will come higher, nose more down. Loosen and the opposite. They cover this in the next section 6 of the instructions.

None of this will work right if your Andersen hitch is not mounted at the proper height. Start with Section 2, regarding hitch height. When set properly, ours runs so nicely down the road. I can certainly feel the difference when I tow without using it. A lot of bouncing in the rear.

I changed tow vehicles in March and had Anderson installed at factory during annual maintenance. We are on the tail end of 7000 plus miles. After installation my thread count was the same on both sides. I noticed recently one chain had some sag to it. I looked at frame mounts and measured from rear cross joins and the brackets differ by about an inch. Maybe shifted during towing? I will adjust. What torque should the bracket bolts be? In the meantime, as long as tension in both chains is similar and taut, hitch will still perform desired function?

[jd1923]

On 3/26/2024 at 5:11 AM, Aluecker said:

I just saw a this. We just pull out somewhere flat. Straight and relatively level and hook them up and tighten.

Yep, that's all you need. The guy on the video is just asking for new problems. Anderson would no longer be liable for damages or warranties.

I just unthread the nut on the tight side all the way out. Attach the Anderson and retighten the one side. Takes 2 minutes and you don't have to hitch up in the exact direction as before.

Better idea for us is I'm adding a spacer to the rear helper springs so they contact earlier with the light tongue weight of the Oliver. Others use rear air bags. Newer 2500 trucks go as-is without a WDH. I just purchased a 2 5/16" Bulldog, rated at 12.5K LBS, brand new without the 10 years of stress that the Anderson WDH places on the ball and the coupler. Next trip out in a few weeks... never again using the Anderson! 

[jd1923]

18 minutes ago, DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI said:

What torque should the bracket bolts be?

Bolts are bolts and there are SAE (inches) and Metric (mm) bolts in multiple grades. I would assume those bolts are Grade 5 SAE (but could be metric). Measure the diameter which is likely 1/2" +/- and check this table for torque. I saved a picture of the table for convenience and the full PDF (good thing to have a printed copy in your truck or OTT Manual). The PDF also has a metric bolt torque table bottom of page.

I always use torque tables from a reputable company, like this one from Fastenal, and I never take the time to check what each manufacturer states for standard bolts they merely purchase for their products (except something like a fine-thread crankshaft bolt where it really matter).

It appears that the installer for your Anderson was not concerned with torque settings and will be much better when you set it back an inch and torque properly.

Torque-Tension Reference Guide - Fastenal.pdf

[topgun2]

I remember a very similar post from several years ago but can not quickly find it using our "Search" function.

However, if you use the "Search" function with the word "chains" there are numerous posts discussing a range of topics from "chains vs cables" to various "chain connectors" and " various chain strengths" etc..

Bill

[jd1923]

@DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI notice the K-ratings on this table. You want the column for K .20 or K .17 if you are using a thread sealer. This table is better than having one torque # for all conditions.

[rideandfly]

On 5/6/2025 at 11:20 AM, jd1923 said:

Bolts are bolts and there are SAE (inches) and Metric (mm) bolts in multiple grades. I would assume those bolts are Grade 5 SAE (but could be metric). Measure the diameter which is likely 1/2" +/- and check this table for torque. I saved a picture of the table for convenience and the full PDF (good thing to have a printed copy in your truck or OTT Manual). The PDF also has a metric bolt torque table bottom of page.

I always use torque tables from a reputable company, like this one from Fastenal, and I never take the time to check what each manufacturer states for standard bolts they merely purchase for their products (except something like a fine-thread crankshaft bolt where it really matter).

It appears that the installer for your Anderson was not concerned with torque settings and will be much better when you set it back an inch and torque properly.

Torque-Tension Reference Guide - Fastenal.pdf 135.33 kB · 5 downloads

The Anderson clamp bolts are Grade 5  5/8X11 UNC (coarse) threads.

This is from Anderson's installation guide https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvY0iopu7rUstsA_7XouHvCkT3Abs192/view

"4-5. Make sure all brackets are clamped tightly — we recommend at least 75 ft-lbs of torque. If needed, you may torque
the brackets up to 90 ft-lbs, as long as it does NOT compress the frame.
IMPORTANT: Some lighter frames may begin to compress if torqued too high, so be aware of your frame’s capabilities."

To be sure,  get a torque recommendation from Oliver on how tight they want to see the clamp bolts on the aluminum frame.

Anderson currently supplies a saddle that rests on the top and bottom of the frame for the clamp top and bottom bolts to help secure the frame clamp. I cannot find this part on their website, but they said they will send me a parts diagram showing the part, will pass it along to everyone here when received.

Just received this from Anderson:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 7 by rideandfly