Xantrex Inverter Issues? Try a Hard Reboot

[Rivernerd]

When returning home from the Oregon Coast this April, my wife and I boondocked at a Harvest Host site.  That cold evening, we tried to heat water for hot drinks in the microwave using the inverter, but it shut down after just a few seconds.  We were surprised and disappointed, because our Lithium Pro Package with Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter should enable us to use the microwave on inverted power for at least a few minutes.  It had been a cloudy day so we got minimal solar recharge, and with our Nordcold fridge running on DC while on the road, our battery State of Charge was down to about 74%.  

When we submitted a service ticket, Jason Essary confirmed that we should be able to run the microwave on inverted power at 74% State of Charge (SOC), and much lower, down to 25-30% SOC. 

With Jason's helpful guidance, I then spent dozens of hours trying to troubleshoot the electrical system, both on the DC and the AC sides.  The inverter/charger was charging as designed, and would run 120V appliances that pull up to 1100-1200 watts (including the Truma air conditioner, which pulls 1100 watts with the compressor running), but loads greater than 1400 watts (like the microwave or a space heater on a high setting) caused the inverter to shut down.   Nothing we tried solved the problem, including replacement of the Optifuse 300A inverter breaker, which Oliver sent to me under warranty.  I also spoke with a Xantrex customer service rep (after45 minutes on eternahold) who assured me the problem could not be with the inverter, so it must be in the trailer wiring.

Jason then authorized me to engage an RV service tech at Oliver's expense to try to find a solution. 

But that was right before I had planned to use the trailer boondocking at the Lochsa River the week of May 15.  I decided to engage a tech after I returned home.  But while camping (and running the Lochsa river during the day) I happened to mention the inverter issue to another RVer.  He asked me if my inverter is a Xantrex.  Yup.  He then told me he had been advised by an RV service tech to do a "hard reboot" of his Xantrex inverter to resolve a similar issue.  He explained that this involves disconnecting both the positive and negative DC cables from the inverter, and leaving it at least overnight, then reconnecting.  I determined to give it a try after I returned home, as it would be relatively easy to do.

To my surprise, the "hard reboot" solved the problem.  My tests have confirmed that we can now run the microwave on full power (1540 watts) for 4 minutes or more at a time, at SOC levels down to 35%.

So, the Xantrex customer service guy was wrong--the problem was with the inverter.  And, the solution was relatively easy to implement:  turn off all batteries, and ensure that shore power is disconnected (so there is no power to the DC cables), then disconnect the DC cables from the inverter and leave at least overnight.  I left mine disconnected for 3 days.  Then reconnect, and turn the batteries back on.

If your Xantrex inverter is not performing up to spec, try a hard reboot.

[Mike and Carol]

When my Xantrex 2K inverter was acting up a few years ago the Xantrex tech had me do a few things which did not solve the issue.  Then he said to do a hard reboot.  I left it overnight and when I reconnected the issue was gone.  Mike

[Tom and Doreen]

@RivernerdThis is great news! We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion. Thanks, much appreciated! 

~Tom~

[Rivernerd]

46 minutes ago, Tom and Doreen said:

We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion.

I am keenly interested in the results from the hard reboot of your Xantrex inverter.  Please post on this thread after you have completed the process.

[Geronimo John]

23 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

do a "hard reboot" of his Xantrex inverter to resolve a similar issue.  He explained that this involves disconnecting both the positive and negative DC cables from the inverter, and leaving it at least overnight, then reconnecting. 

I am just smart enough to understand why a reboot would allow the inverter electronics and capacitors to fully "Stand Down" overnight.  Occasionally my fat fingers have typed in some inadvertent key strokes on my computer that put it into a tail spin and the reboot did the fix job.  

If you have no need to be in the trailer needing lighting or fans, you could just turn off your master DC switch (or pull the 300 amp fuse) and you will accomplish the same thing without the PITA of removing those massive DC input cables at the Inverter.

Me:  I would gladly sleep the night in the dark with the Master Switch off, and turn it on in the morning and fire off the coffee pot and microwave in the morning and thereby avoiding messing with those difficult to get to cables.

GJ

[Rivernerd]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

you could just turn off your master DC switch (or pull the 300 amp fuse)

Our Lithionics G31 130Ah batteries have on/off switches.  Do you believe that just turning off all 3 of those batteries would perform a hard reboot?

[Geronimo John]

I'm a Battleborn guy, so I have no idea.  But I would bet Sherry does know!

GJ

[Rivernerd]

On 5/31/2023 at 2:57 PM, Rivernerd said:

Our Lithionics G31 130Ah batteries have on/off switches.  Do you believe that just turning off all 3 of those batteries would perform a hard reboot?

Following my first hard reboot in May, our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter once again shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts at less that 100% State of Charge.  So I tried just turning off all three batteries, as suggested by Geronimo John.  Although I left the batteries off for a couple of days before turning them back on, the inverter still shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts.

So, I did a second hard reboot by physically disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables from the inverter, and waiting 3 days.  For reasons I do not understand, physically disconnecting the battery cables enabled the inverter to once again handle loads over 1400 watts, while just turning off the batteries did not.  How long the effects of that second hard reboot will last remains to be seen.

Tom and Doreen:  have you done a hard reboot on your Xantrex inverter?  If so, what were the results?

 

 

[Mcb]

Did the inverter signal an E01 error code while it wouldn’t handle loads over 1400 watts by any chance? 
 

I’ve had that happen, the inverter won’t handle the coffee maker, or microwave, and the issue is that the battery cable has somehow loosened slightly while bouncing down the road, and once tightened, the problem is solved.. 

[Tom and Doreen]

14 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

…Tom and Doreen:  have you done a hard reboot on your Xantrex inverter?  If so, what were the results?

 

 

Yes and unfortunately we have the same issue. We have a voltage difference of between .4V - .5V between the actual battery voltage and what the Xantrex reads so there is a voltage drop across the wiring and the circuit breaker. When the batteries are at full charge it’s not too bad but when the batteries begin to discharge we come close to the Xantrex cut off point because the voltage that the Xantrex sees is significantly less than what the actual battery voltage is.  

[SteveCr]

15 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

Following my first hard reboot in May, our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter once again shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts at less that 100% State of Charge.  So I tried just turning off all three batteries, as suggested by Geronimo John.  Although I left the batteries off for a couple of days before turning them back on, the inverter still shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts.

So, I did a second hard reboot by physically disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables from the inverter, and waiting 3 days.  For reasons I do not understand, physically disconnecting the battery cables enabled the inverter to once again handle loads over 1400 watts, while just turning off the batteries did not.  How long the effects of that second hard reboot will last remains to be seen.

Tom and Doreen:  have you done a hard reboot on your Xantrex inverter?  If so, what were the results?

 

 

Try adjusting a setting in the Xantrex app.  Look under inverter settings and find "Low Battery Cut Off".  I have mine set at 12.5 v. ....could go lower but never needed to do so. Just watch the SOC so batteries don't fully deplete. The LBCO delay timer is set for 10 s.

There is no doubt that this LBCO setting will cut the inverter off.

Steve

[Tom and Doreen]

True, this has been my work-around. When I have more time I’ll have to look into this further , if not I’ll have Oliver fix it this winter. 

[Rivernerd]

4 hours ago, SteveCr said:

Try adjusting a setting in the Xantrex app.  Look under inverter settings and find "Low Battery Cut Off".  I have mine set at 12.5 v.

My LBCO is set at 12.0V, per Oliver's recommendation.  And yet I still get a 1.0 to 1.1 differential between actual and Xantrex reported battery voltage, and inverter shutdown when under a 1500 watt+ load, except right after a hard reboot.  After a hard reboot, the reported voltage difference is in the .03 to .06V range.

[Rivernerd]

19 hours ago, Mcb said:

Did the inverter signal an E01 error code while it wouldn’t handle loads over 1400 watts by any chance? 

Yes. 

 

19 hours ago, Mcb said:

I’ve had that happen, the inverter won’t handle the coffee maker, or microwave, and the issue is that the battery cable has somehow loosened slightly while bouncing down the road, and once tightened, the problem is solved.. 

I have thoroughly checked all DC and AC connections, and they are secure.

[I M in KS]

On 5/31/2023 at 2:06 PM, Geronimo John said:

I am just smart enough to understand why a reboot would allow the inverter electronics and capacitors to fully "Stand Down" overnight.  Occasionally my fat fingers have typed in some inadvertent key strokes on my computer that put it into a tail spin and the reboot did the fix job.  

If you have no need to be in the trailer needing lighting or fans, you could just turn off your master DC switch (or pull the 300 amp fuse) and you will accomplish the same thing without the PITA of removing those massive DC input cables at the Inverter.

Me:  I would gladly sleep the night in the dark with the Master Switch off, and turn it on in the morning and fire off the coffee pot and microwave in the morning and thereby avoiding messing with those difficult to get to cables.

GJ

I'm a newby. Where's the 30 amp fuse you refer to? I don't believe I have a DC master switch.

We have a 2022 LE2 with Xantrex 3000 and the 390Ah batteries (3 units).

[Rivernerd]

16 hours ago, I M in KS said:

I don't believe I have a DC master switch.

We have a 2022 LE2 with Xantrex 3000 and the 390Ah batteries (3 units).

You don't have a DC master switch. You have on/off buttons on each of your three Lithionics 130Ah batteries.

That said, if you need to do a "hard reboot," just turning off the batteries did not work for me.  Only physically removing the battery cables from the inverter resulting (twice) in a hard reboot.

[jd1923]

I have what appears to be a marine-style master switch under the street side bed. I'm also new to Oliver. I have not yet tested this to see if it disconnects all power (batteries and solar charger). Of course, shore power can be simply disconnected. The solar charger should feed the battery bank only. There should be a main battery cut-off switch and if the switch under the bed does not perform that function, I will add a master cut-off switch soon.

I also find it hard to believe you'd have to wait overnight or 1-3 days with power disconnected from the inverter for a hard boot. Charge capacitance of the inverter should dissipate in minutes. If not, you can create a draw at the inverter output (connect a light bulb or any resistance) to force the drain of residual power. 

[Tom and Doreen]

@jd1923The Optifuse 300A/48VDC circuit breaker should remove all DC power to the Xantrex. The 60A/42V circuit breaker controls the 12V peripheral systems in the coach; lights, radio, etc.. 

[SeaDawg]

10 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

You don't have a DC master switch. You have on/off buttons on each of your three Lithionics 130Ah batteries.

That said, if you need to do a "hard reboot," just turning off the batteries did not work for me.  Only physically removing the battery cables from the inverter resulting (twice) in a hard reboot.

If you turn off each battety, and disconnect from shore power, and cover solar panels (if you don't gave a switch for solar) , you are basically down (dead in water.) No, ZERO power in, is what you want to achieve,  to reset.

We cover our panels with two layers of dark blue moving blankets, in certain circumstances. 

Disconnected batteries is quite likely easiest. If you have solar, and can't disconnect v incoming power, I'd cover, or wait until dark sets in. 

 

[JRK]

Interesting discussion. I have a similar, but not the same? problem with a 2021 Legacy I (single axle). I was doing everything just fine when my water pump switch would not light when turned on - no power for the water pump. Yes, it was working fine. A few hours later, there was no power to the inverter? - the inverter would not function. Electrically, I was dead if no shore power. Shore power worked fine. I will attempt the hard reboot and see what happens. Not sure about the water pump issue. It shouldn't be wired from the inverter, but then where is a schematic to verify?

As far as water, my female hose connection, the one on the trailer, has failed. The rotating, swivel connection is leaking profusely. I will need to remove the fitting/hose connection and replace it. So I had no water unless I didn't mind sending a steady stream of water into the ground at the campsite, and boondocking was not working well as the water pump was not working. 

John

[topgun2]

The easiest problem first -

Do you have an Allen wrench and know how to tighten the backflow valve that is located just inside that fitting?  If not instructions can be found here on the Forum.

Second problem - 

Have you tried turning your inverter on/off via the switch that is located ON the inverter itself - I presume that you are using the remote switch and it can sometimes fail.  If this works then you know that your issue is with the remote switch and we can work to correct that.  If using the switch on the main unit doesn't work then the "hard reset" should be tried.  If that doesn't work then a call to the manufacturer is in order.

Let us know.

Bill

[Rivernerd]

7 hours ago, JRK said:

Not sure about the water pump issue. It shouldn't be wired from the inverter, but then where is a schematic to verify?

The water pump power supply does not go through the inverter.  The water pump is 12V.  The inverter output is 120V. 

There should be a fuse in the 12V fuse panel that supplies 12V power to the water pump.  I would start my water pump troubleshooting there.

With regard to the female hose connection, you will need a 1/2" Allen wrench.  I carry one in our Elite II just for that purpose.  1/2" is not a size commonly included with Allen wrench sets, so you may need to order it.  Amazon link below.

https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-14232-Long-Hex-L-Key/dp/B000GARYA8/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=409948196806&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2706863334268031158&hvtargid=kwd-48266044980&hydadcr=1609_11255806&keywords=1%2F2+allen+key&qid=1691070091&sr=8-5

Good luck!

[Boudicca908]

19 hours ago, JRK said:

As far as water, my female hose connection, the one on the trailer, has failed. The rotating, swivel connection is leaking profusely. I will need to remove the fitting/hose connection and replace it.

I literally bought myself a 1/2" Allen wrench today, at a local hardware store. The fix on that is SO easy; I went through all my hose connection ports and every one of them needed to be snugged down. No leak now. Just remove the screened-gasket and you will see the hex-shaped backflow valve mentioned by @topgun2 above. 

[Rivernerd]

This is an update to the continuing saga of shutdown issues with our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter.  In short, several days after the first hard reboot, we again began to get inverter shutdowns under heavy load.  A second hard reboot also produced good short-term results, but did not "stick" long term.

Earlier this week, Jason Essary authorized me to drop the Low Battery Cutoff (LBCO) level from the default 12.0V advised by Lithionics to 11.5V.  I then ran another 4-minute test using 12V battery power through the inverter to run the microwave at 100% (with a pitcher or water inside to protect the microwave), at various SOC levels from 97% down to 22%.

Although the Xantrex remote continued to report DC voltages as low as 11.8V during this test,  the Seelevel "Batt" gauge reported DC voltages no lower than 12.2V.  And most important, my trusty multimeter reported actual battery voltages (at the battery bank) no lower than 12.7V, with the microwave on full power at 22% SOC! 

So, under 11500+watt load, there was a 0.4V variance between the DC voltage perceived by the inverter and that perceived by the Seelevel monitor, while there was a 0.9V variance between the voltage perceived by the inverter and actual DC battery voltage verified with a multimeter.

To me, this confirms that those expensive Lithionics batteries are not at risk under these conditions, since actual DC voltage did not drop below 12.7V.  It appears to me that setting the LBCO at 11.5V compensates for the fact that, when under heavy load, our inverter misperceives the actual battery voltage by as much as 0.9V (12.7V actual -11.8V perceived=0.9V).  It still concerns me that our Xantrex inverter misperceives DC voltage when under heavy load, but this new "workaround", i.e., setting the LBCO artificially low, enabled me to run heavy wattage loads on inverted power even at lower SOC levels, as the system was designed to do.

With the LBCO set at 11.5V, even though the Xantrex inverter perceived DC voltage of 11.8V, there, of course, were no inverter shutdowns or LBCO "[01]" warnings.  With that setting, it appears we can use high-wattage appliances on inverted power at least down to 22% State of Charge (SOC).  This is encouraging.

My wife and I are boondocking this weekend.  We plan to use high-wattage appliances,  including a hair dryer and the Truma AC, as needed.  I will update this thread after that "real world" test .

[Coddiwomple]

For the Elite 1 Folks......

I too have been working with Jason E on this and have an Elite 1 with the 2,000 watt inverter.  After changing the LBCO to 11.5 volts through the app and testing multiple times (4 cups water for 4 minutes in microwave), I was able to succesfully use the microwave all the way down from 100% SOC to 14% SOC with no alarms or overload cutoff.  Happy with results.