30 Amp vs 20

[Caddymv]

What can I expect if I can only get 20 Amps instead of 30 at the campsite

[CRM]

 

33 minutes ago, Caddymv said:

What can I expect if I can only get 20 Amps instead of 30 at the campsite

10 less amps. 😄

[Rolind]

You might be able to run the AC. You should expect decreased charge rate of the batteries and may need to decrease the breaker rating on your xantrex. I would expect everything else to run as normal.

[Chukarhunter]

2 hours ago, CRM said:

10 less amps. 😄

Humor notwithstanding, I believe this is the correct answer.  It is not complicated.  First, lets look at what happens when you connect to shore power 30 amp receptacle.  In this normal situation, the 30 amp shore power outlet will pass a maximum of 3,600 watts continuous power to your Ollie (30 amps x 120 volts = 3,600 watts).  If you turn on too many appliances in the Ollie (including battery charger and air conditioner, fridge, etc.) such that you are consuming more than 3.600 watts, then the 30 amp breaker on the shore power receptacle will likely trip.  It is difficult but not impossible to to draw more than 3,600 watts in the Ollie but could happen if the batteries were charging at a 150 amp rate consuming 2,100 watts (150 amps x 14 volts =2,100), and you turned on the microwave at 1,000 watt setting, and turned on the air conditioner all at the same time, you would be trying to draw more than 4,000 watts from the 30 amp shore power outlet and the 30 amp breaker in the shore power post will trip.

The only thing different when you connect to a 20 amp shore power outlet is the shore power outlet will only pass a maximum of 2,400 watts before the 20 amp breaker protecting the shore power outlet will trip.  In this case, you need to be diligent to keep your continuous consumption in the Ollie to less than 2,400 watts.  This is easy to do if you change the charger setting to something lower than 150 amp maximum charging rate.

I almost always choose to connect to the 20 amp shore power outlet when I am just stopping for the night somewhere and not unhitching.  It is less work than to having to dig into the back of the basement to retrieve the heavy 30 amp cord and put it away later.  Instead, I quickly plug in using a 25 foot lightweight 12 AWG extension cord with a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter.  It allows me to simultaneously charge the batteries at 80 amps (1,120 watts, the maximum my 2,000 watt inverter will do) run the air conditioner or microwave at reduced power, and  watch the 120 volt TV all simultaneously without drawing more than 20 amps of shore power.  I can also run all 12 volt loads (e.g., furnace, lights, water pump, etc.) that I want without increasing the draw on shore power since all 12 volt loads draw their power from the batteries.  The next morning, it takes me only two minutes to disconnect and stow the 12 AWG extension cord in the back of the TV.

As Rolind said above, you will probably need to back down the maximum charge rate limit setting on your charger if you connect to only 20 amps, depending on what other 120 volt loads you want to run simultaneously in the Ollie.  

[Dave and Kimberly]

   Basically nothing-  especially if you get an honest 20 amp outlet.   I am able to run my AC and microwave on my 20 amp plug out of my garage.   At the very least you will be able to run one or the other... meaning maybe you couldn't do too many heavy users at the same time.  (example, electric toaster, microwave and AC)

[Caddymv]

Thank you all. Now I’ll have to learn to turn down the charge rate

[Jps190]

6 hours ago, Caddymv said:

Thank you all. Now I’ll have to learn to turn down the charge rate

You can adjust it in the xantrex app.

 

 

[dewdev]

Sorry to deviate from the original subject but: 

I have the Xantrex 2000 in my 2018 Elite II.

Will the xantrex app work with my 2000 watt unit or is that just for the 3000 watt unit?

[Jason Foster]

4 hours ago, dewdev said:

Sorry to deviate from the original subject but: 

I have the Xantrex 2000 in my 2018 Elite II.

Will the xantrex app work with my 2000 watt unit or is that just for the 3000 watt unit?

According to the Xantrex website, it looks like it might work (Performance via bluetooth):

Also, a quick search on their website lists that this charger was made in 2018, so it technically should work fine.  The easiest way to tell would be to just DL the app and see if it plays game.

Here is the link to the manual:  Xantrex | Freedom XC 2000 230V Owners Guide - English

 

 

 

 

[Ronbrink]

11 hours ago, dewdev said:

Will the xantrex app work with my 2000 watt unit or is that just for the 3000 watt unit?

Likely not, unless it has been replaced and you have the optional BT remote panel. My 2020 OLEll is equipped with a Xantrex XC 2000, which is not BT. 

[dewdev]

8 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

Likely not, unless it has been replaced and you have the optional BT remote panel. My 2020 OLEll is equipped with a Xantrex XC 2000, which is not BT. 

Thanks.

I agree probably not, but I will check the O&M manual for any mention of bluetooth capable.

Update: There was no mention in the O&M about wifi capabile. I called Xantrex and confirmed that only the Xantrex Freedom XC inverters have the wifi capability, not the Xantrex ProWatt XC series that I have.

[Kansa]

Could use some advice on the 120. I have tried to hook up to 120  one time before last winter and when I did the Ollie made popping noises so I unhooked it and went  on solar last winter I was using a Marinco adapter and the 120 extension that I used on my previous trailer a jayco.    with this cold this year I need 120 to run furnace my antifreeze in the toilet bowl froze 

 never had a problem with the extension it was long roughly 75 foot heavy gauge.. on my old trailer my power cord was hard wired and I had no solar I plugged my adapter into the rv 30 amp cord then the extension … 

should I try to use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie then adapter to a shorter 120 extension I have. and pray the popping noise doesn’t happen or use the solar shut down and try it

 

my inverter is always in the off I have AGMs   

I would drive it to a campground for a few days but I live on a hiway and they have plowed and blocked the drive with ice 

[Rivernerd]

35 minutes ago, Kansa said:

Could use some advice on the 120.

What is your 120V power source? 

[Kansa]

A120 gfi on the garage it is the same source I used to plug in my old trailer I also use it to plug in my truck engine heater but I would not try both at the same time

 

 

[T-Oliver]

Have you checked to see if the outlet is wired properly ?

Open ground,open neutral will cause a surge protector fits (If so equiped)

[dewdev]

5 hours ago, Kansa said:

Could use some advice on the 120. I have tried to hook up to 120  one time before last winter and when I did the Ollie made popping noises so I unhooked it and went  on solar last winter I was using a Marinco adapter and the 120 extension that I used on my previous trailer a jayco.    with this cold this year I need 120 to run furnace my antifreeze in the toilet bowl froze 

 never had a problem with the extension it was long roughly 75 foot heavy gauge.. on my old trailer my power cord was hard wired and I had no solar I plugged my adapter into the rv 30 amp cord then the extension … 

should I try to use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie then adapter to a shorter 120 extension I have. and pray the popping noise doesn’t happen or use the solar shut down and try it

 

my inverter is always in the off I have AGMs   

I would drive it to a campground for a few days but I live on a hiway and they have plowed and blocked the drive with ice 

 I would use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie and use an adapter at your garage outlet.

Do you have a EMS or a polarity tester that you can plug into your garage outlet to confirm that it is wired correct? 

What is the amperage of your 120 volt source in your garage? If it is only 10 amp that may be the problem.

What do you mean the "Ollie made popping noises"?

What was making the noise. Was it the EMS in the attic?

Did you look at the readings on the EMS in the attic when it was making the popping noises?

[Kansa]

I checked the outlets.  This afternoon. Open ground older house electrician put new outlets in for mom.  Probably wasn’t a ground wire in the old outlet… 

[Kansa]

I will see if I have any grounded outlets outside😆

[Kansa]

Found one outlet that is correct   The others all no ground.
 

[Kansa]

We will get the trailer moved so we can get to the outlet tomorrow will update if that works 

Thank you for all your input..  

[Geronimo John]

On 12/28/2023 at 8:02 AM, Chukarhunter said:

In this normal situation, the 30 amp shore power outlet will pass a maximum of 3,600 watts continuous power to your Ollie (30 amps x 120 volts = 3,600 watts).

 

On 12/28/2023 at 8:02 AM, Chukarhunter said:

The only thing different when you connect to a 20 amp shore power outlet is the shore power outlet will only pass a maximum of 2,400 watts before the 20 amp breaker protecting the shore power outlet will trip.  In this case, you need to be diligent to keep your continuous consumption in the Ollie to less than 2,400 watts. 

I have highlighted two words above for clarification.   Both of the above statements could be misconstrued by a new owner.  YES you can operate an electrical circuit "just" below the circuit breaker rating, and do so for some period of time. 

But a soon as we use the word continuous, we evoke the NEC requirement that the circuit be de-rated.  There are several interpretations out there, but most would agree with the NEC that a 20 amp circuit shall not be continuously loaded to 15 or 16 amps MAX.  Likewise for the 30 amp single phase 120V circuit you must not continuously load it to over about 24 or so amps.

Yes there is some wiggle room in the interpretations, but all of them are well below the full circuit breaker rating for continuous use. 

Doing so over time can will to bad words or worse.   Please keep this in mind when loading your circuits to their their breaker rating.    

GJ