Leaderboard

Bathroom door hack using a Camco basement door catch attached with a Command strip.

We picked up our twin bed Legacy Elite II just over 1 week ago. Has the AGM's, solar, Truma AquaGo® Water Heater , fiber granite, etc. - really everything but the Wi-Fi, Satellite stuff, camera's, table, upgrade bedding and cell booster. (5200 lbs. sticker at delivery) I added to my build a spare set of axle replacement seals and bearings, and a complete tire/rim (yes that makes two). So far I have been impressed with the overall integration of the sum of its "parts" into a very functional unit that is well executed. I've run everything but the heat system, plenty of that naturally right now. It is very impressive that Oliver has thought through the process and has included in the delivery the various items needed to actually use the unit - the hoses, adaptors, water pressure reducer, etc. There is a lot to like about the unit, many of you, as owners, know what that is, so my few "complaints" are as follows: 1.Don't understand the shower curtain process - it just doesn't work. Will find a better answer - probably figure out a way to keep water off/out of the Natures Head, and call it a day. 2.Had a small area of unfinished exterior surface prep (about palm size). A little elbow work. 400/600/1200 sandpaper and polish took care of it. 3. After one week of airing it out - the fiberglass and resin smell is still there - I expect this to diminish over time. Yes the AC is loud - but that was expected. The "22” Flat Screen LCD TV, Radio with FM & AM Dual Zone Audio Output, CD/DVD/MP/WMA/MP4, USB, Bluetooth & Remote Control" - whew -works much better than I expected, and the lighting and switch options ae really well done. The DC/usb port lights are annoying if you don't plug in the rubber cover. That's about it - so far. I have installed magnets to keep the bathroom door open, used 3m double side tape - works great. Re engineered my Thule bike rack to install on the rear of the Ollie. It works well and looks very similar to the former factory option. As they discontinued the factory option. Interesting that the tow cable hooks are too large to fit the hitch attachment locations on my GMC. Had to buy some heavy duty large carabiners to make the transition. I Amazoned a box of the recommended grease, a new dedicated grease gun, the Anderson wheel chocks, and the door magnets. Still have to source spare fuses - by the way, Oliver is now putting 2 amp fuses in the Natures Head circuit. I purchased a Gushill lock for the bulldog hitch, and also lock the leaver - thus theft now represents to much trouble - the thieves will move on to the next rube. Or unbolt the Bulldog…. Did you know Dometic fridge/freezer maintains 40 degree at setting 2. Inquiring minds and all. And the Heat/cool T stat is accurate - within reason. Towing was fine, The Anderson worked as advertised, but I have sourced a new TV, perhaps overkill with the 2500, but hey, a man and his toys. (Cindy likes the truck - a bonus) That's it - a satisfied owner - to date. As an aside - the purchase price for these units is hard to justify - unless and until you go through the details of the build, the standard options, and the execution. Take it home, crawl around, crawl underneath, poke it, pull it, use it - the value becomes much more compelling. With that - to all a good day!

Just started using the shower and the pan/floor sounds like it is cracking when stepped on. Is this normal?

<p style="text-align: center;">We arrived at the Mothership at 9:30 AM and departed at 3:15 with Oliver Hull Number 412. We drove to David Crockett State Park and got set up. Oliver picked up the tab for the site. It is a beautiful park. The campground host stopped by and made sure things were good. The Oliver was winterized when we picked it up and we decided to leave it that way while we camp the next couple of days. Oliver gave us a couple of camping location options and we are very happy that we chose the state park. After spending 150 nights in a tent last year, this is total comfort.</p>

Here's the newest one http://www.atlismotorvehicles.com

Search for Oracal 651 vinyl on Amazon. It’s utility grade vinyl used by sign shops, often as a mask for sandblasting. It’s thicker and much more protective than the stuff they use for actual vinyl graphics. Very similar to contact paper but it has a stronger adhesive.

p.s. I do have one of those "electric swatters". If you have any doubt as to what they do - just go ahead and turn it on and touch the swatter. Don't ask me how I know this! It probably takes a rather perverse sense of humor, but, there is something about seeing and hearing a mosquito meet her maker on that little swatter thing. Rather get the mosquito than the mosquito get me. Actually, while camped on the South Carolina beach this past summer, we apparently set up our small Clam shelter over a "nest" of hatching moths. The first ten minutes or so were spent wildly batting these little suckers into the afterlife. Perhaps "Mothra" is now out there somewhere looking for me. Bill

Thought I'd try taking another photo to see if it would show the matte black better - this is just generic black spray paint applied to the back of the frosted door. I still get some light around the edges at night, but it's much better than before. I have some additional equipment in there with LEDs that make it a bit brighter than stock. I could probably experiment with some weatherstripping to see if I can get it all blocked. I think you could use any color, so long as you covered it with vinyl to make sure no light gets through. I told my wife that I might paint each door a different color and she threatened to hide the keys.

I just use a paper towel and quick reflexes. We haven't had too much issue with bugs of any sort so far. I did quickly learn that the porch lights are bug magnets, and if you come and go with them on you'll have a trailer full of little flying things in no time. I found that an LED strip mounted along the edge of the awning will attract them away from the door and with that we get very few bugs inside, if any. I have a Lumenoodle but there are plenty of options and I think the awning companies all sell light kits as well. You can also put the noodle in psychedelic mode and it will repel other campers as well. It also helps that we're fall/winter/spring campers and prefer deserts and mountains to the woods. Last year I sprayed between the hulls and along the edge of the floor before summer storage to keep ants, spiders and such from taking up residence. I'll probably make that a yearly thing.

We have hull number 178 and it has been in use for over 2 years. Our shower floor has never made any noise or felt anything but solid when being stood or stepped on.

We had the same problem when we picked up our trailer in june.Jason removed shower pan and discovered that the foam on back was cut on angles with the center being the highest. He got a new pan from mfg side and installed it.Took about 4 hrs but it resolved the issue

That looks like a great way to hold the door open! There are a couple of other ideas at the link below. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-bathroom-door-hold-open/ I did add a couple of stick-on bumpers to decrease the magnet strength.

I painted the back of ours, then covered that with some black vinyl to protect the paint. Looks like a chalkboard because of the matte finish of the plexi. I’d post a pic but it doesn’t really come through in a photo. At first I thought it looked out of place with all the gloss finishes in the trailer, but I decided to live with it for a while to see if it will grow on me. I’d prefer to put a mirrored door there but my wife objects. If I don’t like the look after a while, then I'll ask Oliver if I can get one of their black doors. By the way, if you spray paint it and don’t like it, you can take the paint off with acetone and it won’t hurt the plastic, so it’s reversible with a little effort and time. I’ve considered repainting mine with silver paint to see what that looks like. Also, for those of you who have mirrored doors, the vinyl trick works well on those to protect the mirror finish.

Apparently, Mike and I were working at the same time... I removed the entire post. Thanks for posting the warning, John. A reminder to everyone. If you see a post that looks like spam, hit that little gray "report" word at the bottom of the post. A message goes out immediately to all the mods and administrators . If you add a warning post as John did, that can help others before we get to the post. I don't know what triggered Johns suspicion, but it was a classic spam post. Brand new member posting a link.... not truly related to the topic... For those of you have never noticed it, this is the report button. Sherry

You need to squeeze on the orange tabs underneath to release the drawer from the closing mechanism. If you want to know more, I believe the drawer closing mechanism is the Movento line from Blum. I was able to download some instructions from their website I have attached their instructions on Drawer Adjustments and Removal. [attachment file=Blum Adjustments and Removal.pdf] I also have found some videos, and .Blum-Adjustments-and-Removal.pdf

I am going through my Oliver with a fine tooth comb since I picked it up last week and got it home. I could not get my 120 volt outlets to work as my previous post stated. The outlets would work with the generator on and with the inverter on but not when plugged into shore power. I checked the breakers and fuses and the called Oliver Service and left a message. Richie called me back. With him and Jason on the line, the problem was solved. My surge protector on the Oliver was throwing off a error code of E 02. That means the surge protector said there was an error (ground error) with the electrical source that I was plugged in to. I was plugged into a 3 prong outlet in my old barn. So, I grabbed my generator bonding plug out of my generator and plugged it into the barn outlet. Surprise, Surprise, Surprise! The surge protector in the Oliver suddenly said no error and the 120 volt outlets work like a charm. Being a rookie and a newbie to this RV thing, I am blessed to have Oliver Service helping me out. Now wonder what I will learn tomorrow. Thanks Richie and Jason!

Got the Furion paired. I pulled the Oliver back to service due to a couple of minor issues. I brought it up to Richie and Jason when I dropped the Oliver. I picked it up a few hours later and tried again. It paired right up.

Just a thought. Have you checked your water pressure regulator to make sure it hasn’t gone bad? I had an issue with my house a couple years back when suddenly I had several faucets, compression fittings on pipes, and toilets in the house all start dripping/ leaking at around the same time. And I thought ok, that many simultaneous failures can’t be a coincidence. The pressure regulator on the water main supply line coming into the house had failed. And I’ll second the recommendation on the Rectorseal pipe sealant. I’ve used that on many plumbing projects lately with very good results. Much better than the Teflon tape.

Let me see if I can help you. You state that "...Water is dripping from the rear and front “vent” on the dinette side only..." From that, I gather that it is dripping from two places (front and rear of trailer.) Does it drip constantly and consistently? I suspect that IF there is a leak it is coming from a single source. But based on the size of the puddle in the picture you included, I would expect a lot more water from a constant leak. A single leak could cause water to run out at both ends of the trailer due to the fact that the collection channel runs the entire length. If you are going to chase after a leak, I would start with the last fitting you replaced. On the other hand, it could merely be condensation between the shells. You state you are in Las Vegas and have been using heat at night. The outside humidity is probably very low but if it is cold enough to require heat then the temperature differential between the two shells will be significant. Every time you guys exhale you are releasing moisture into the air. Two people could easily put out a couple of quarts a day. If you are cooking inside on the propane cook-top, there would been even more.

That was my thought - you mentioned #720 as current, minus the #300 which leaves somewhere around #420, seems a decent SWAG to start out with. Now I do not know what a recommended minimum tongue weight would be on an Ollie or otherwise. Seems one would want to consider a safe range, just to accommodate casual loading of the interior areas. According to the numerous internet sources it can be somewhere between 7% - 20 % of loaded trailer. For my application 10% of my initial loaded EII is right at +/-600 pounds - more than enough in my mind. I would also wonder what the Oliver's rear frame would handle given its a stout rear frame. I know what I was told by Oliver - but I don't buy it... I've put 300 on mine and it didn't flinch. I didn't measure the tongue weight, but with it loaded at approximately 180 lbs., the Oliver sits level with the truck and tows like a dream - with and without the Anderson. As for the quoted cost for the Gen 3 - I agree, it is steep- must be design, material, labor, and accounting for future warranty costs - that's the answer I got when I questioned prices on several of the options I purchased.... LOL SWAG =- sophisticated wild ass guess -for those wondering... RB

There have been some changes in Oliver's service structure as of this week. Effective immediately, the number for scheduling service or ordering parts is 866-205-2621. This number will be answered and/or monitored by Jason Essary. All calls placed to this number will go to Jason's desk. After five rings it will transfer to his cell phone. If he is unable to answer immediately, leave a message and he will return your call. These changes are due, in part, to a recent problem with their VoIP system which resulted in calls to the service department going to an inoperative number thus not being answered. The outage occurred without Oliver having knowledge of it for a few days. They wish to apologize for all inconveniences that were incurred by the owners. Please do not call Richie Carroll's cell phone any longer to request service. The goal here is to have service requests responded to in a more efficient manner.

We have not had any problems using the MW when the AC was on. The AC is on its own breaker and the MW simply plugs into a 110 outlet on a separate circuit. So, we are careful when using the MW and another appliance plugged into a 110 outlet. I’m not an electrical expert, but that is my understanding of how things are configured. Having said that..... We had all of our 110 outlets go dead last winter. I checked and rechecked and couldn’t figure it out. So I went to my local RV repair guy and had him check. He found a lose cable in the junction box next to the inverter (under the dinette seat) and also a burned wire in the back of the circuit breaker box. He tightened the cable and replaced the wire in the box and also made sure everything else was tight. Problem solved. I supppose connections can loosen as the miles increase (we had about 30K miles on our trailer when this happened). Mike

I would caution against taking the comments of one owner and and assuming those problems apply to everyone. Hull 200 has had an unusual number of issues. As far as stripped screws, I had one on my bathroom window. I found the head on the bathroom floor, clearly over tightened. My understanding is that these windows are received by OTT already assembled so the issue would be with the window manufacturer. I’ve had no other stripped screw issues. Bill makes a good suggestion on a factory tour. Many of your concerns could be addressed directly. Mike

I can confirm that Jason has two email addresses. jessary@olivertraveltrailers.com and jessary@olivertechnologies.com. Don

Personally, if I leave someone a message and they've not returned my call in two hours, they're getting a return call. After two weeks, surely you've realized it has slipped between the cracks. Perhaps I was not clear earlier, Oliver had a breakdown in their phone system and NO MESSAGES were getting through. They disappeared into the ozone. For about 10 days. None. Now call back on the provided number. If they don't return your call in a timely manner, call me. 662-255-0181

Good! I'm still waiting on that call back from Richie and it's been over 2 weeks now since I talked to Anita and then left him 2 messages... They can apologize all day long, but not returning calls after multiple messages have been left is way too common with this company. We need to start billing them for our time fixing everything that they messed up...

That number should be used for all past, current and future service questions. I do not have Jason's email but convention should dictate that it's Jessary@olivertechnologies.com I realize some folks like emails and texting but personally, I'd sooner eat a frozen possum! There is a communication tracking system being developed that Scott can review and yes, Richie still works at Oliver.