Leaderboard

We use this “cube” and like it so much we purchased a second one. We have it mounted at the rear of our night stand with a small piece of clear Velcro. We just use the plug at the top left hand side of ceiling. And neatly hide the charger cord behind self adhesive cable race way.

Elimination of the power and data charge points from the nightstand IMHO was a very sad bean counter decision. We use ours a LOT. My condolences to the owners suffering without the night stand utility ports and having to hang cords not only in the kitchen and dinning area, but now also the rear of the trailer. Frankly I would prefer all the high power points to be moved to lower locations where code would allow. Up high under the upper cabinets is much less useful most of the time for us.

Our Oliver had 1/4-28 thread size Zerk grease fittings but this may not be the same for all Olivers. I think some owners have found that their Dexter suspension assemblies have a 6mm-1 metric size Zerk. Best to remove one of your existing Zerk fittings to confirm the thread size.

I encourage you to place your new return air vent in the wall between the toilet and the front dinette seat, as shown in the attached photo. This location enables return air to flow through the street side bottom of the trailer, under the battery box and eventually back to the furnace on the curb side. To be most effective, return air vents need a minimally-obstructed path back to the furnace. A return air vent in the recessed front of the vanity would have quite a tortuous path back to the furnace.

We have the standard floor plan so no nightstand. We use one of these and plug it into the cigarette lighter port above the stove. It has a Type C 30 watt fast charging port, two USB ports, plus you don't lose your cigarette lighter port so in theory you can charge 4 items at the same time. It has a continuous readout of battery voltage as well. I typically charge my dog tracking collar, phone (fast charge) and Garmin InReach through it at the same time. It has worked just fine so far.

If youhave to drop down from above that is a nice clean look. Thanks for the idea

Same one, set up the same way in our trailer. (BTW, newer model years don't have any USB or power ports on the nightstand.)

I like this one. It plugs in at the USB port on the nightstand between the beds. So no cords hanging down. The "Amazon Basics" brand stuff has always worked well for us. GJ

Most of the fiberglass rv /factory direct sales companies sponsor some kind of spiff/ambassador/reward program, and have for a very long time. We don't show ours anymore, except casual showings at gas stations, shopping malls, campgrounds, and repair facilities, as most people want to see the latest model, not a 2008. (Though lots of people who step or peek inside are utterly astounded at how great a 2008 looks. A few have even accused me of exaggeration, til I show them the paperwork.) Back in the day, I was always excited to show our trailer, but Oliver gave me data on those who requested a look-see. I looked everyone up online, as our trailer has always had an off season spot at our home. I interviewed them by phone, before providing my home address. I don't remember ever collecting a spiff. We enjoyed showing off our cool little trailer. We had a lot of fun with it, for a few years. We even let Technomadia test-tow our trailer with their jeep, with my husband along. Met some fun people along the way. Still friends with some of them, who ultimately decided on another brand. Times change, people change, and everyone should simply follow their guts. No obligation. No harm/no foul if you decide to not opt-in.

I agree with the comments posted by Steph and Dud B above. The new Indemnification paragraph is an improvement, but not enough to persuade me to join the program. "[V]iolation of any law, rule or regulation" can be intentional or negligent. Since that language is not limited to intentional acts by the Participant (you), it could be construed to require you to "defend, indemnify and hold harmless" Oliver if you are found to have been negligent, even if you didn't intentionally violate any "law, rule or regulation." This means that if, for example, you show your Oliver trailer to someone in the winter, and they slip on snow or ice outside the trailer that you are found to have negligently failed to remove and suffer significant injuries, you get to "defend, indemnify and hold harmless" Oliver for all of its defense costs, "including reasonable attorneys' fees." The end result could still be financial ruin, unless you have an umbrella insurance policy with high limits in place, covering you for negligence claims. With this new Indemnification language, Oliver is still foisting nearly all of the financial exposure off on to the Participant. It is not "We've got your back" language that would result in Oliver defending, indemnifying and holding the Participant harmless in the unlikely event that a personal injury claim arises from showing an Oliver trailer. In my view, since Oliver owners who enroll in the Rewards Program are acting as a nationwide sales force for Oliver, and being compensated for their sales efforts with the offered Rewards, Oliver should accept full legal responsibility for any litigation arising from a trailer showing. Oliver could simply buy insurance to cover this additional exposure, like RV dealers buy insurance to cover such claims arising out of RV showings on their lots. Instead, Oliver expects the participants to buy the insurance, or take the risk, in exchange for the rewards. In short, Oliver has not yet "done the right thing" (in my view) by agreeing to defend, indemnify and hold harmless the Participants in the Rewards Program for claims arising out of trailer showings. So, if you choose to enroll in the Oliver Rewards program, I recommend you have a broadly-worded umbrella insurance policy in place covering you for negligence claims AND which does not exclude claims when you are engaged in compensated commercial activity, with limits of several million dollars. Then, if you are the unlucky owner who gets sued, you are protected. If the potential rewards are sufficient to cover the cost of the umbrella insurance policy, then enrolling is a sensible business decision for you. For me, the offered rewards are not even close to sufficient to persuade me to get my umbrella policy amended, if necessary, to be sure it covers me for negligence if I engage in commercially compensated activity. I still will not be signing up. And, my opinion of Oliver Travel Trailers as a "customer friendly" business is still lower than when we left Hohenwald last November.

We have 2 phones, a watch and a set of hearing aids that need charging. I would like to cut down on so many wires hanging, we charge at night usually. I tried a device ordered on Amazon that has 6 charging ports but it was junk. Does anyone have a good solution? Thanks in advance.

I am a fellow cold weather camper and considered doing that as well but decided that doing so would result in insufficient total free air flow from the furnace likely leading to furnace heat exchanger overheating and short-cycling of the furnace. To work properly, the manual says the furnace needs a minimum of 25 sq. inches of unobstructed supply duct airflow. A 4 inch flex duct has 12.56 sq. inches of airflow as it leaves the furnace. Since there are only two supply ducts from the furnace, both must be completely unobstructed to achieve 25 sq. inches of unobstructed airflow. All duct work creates friction and turbulence which reduces the free flow of air. Rigid duct minimizes restriction of airflow but the flimsy flex duct used in the Oliver really reduces airflow in anything but short absolutely straight runs. Dedicating one 4 inch duct to a long run to to the bathroom would cause such a restriction that the furnace would be subject to short cycling and poor heating performance. I am sure that is why Oliver put the splitter into the long duct run to the bathroom so it feeds two registers, one being closer to the furnace. To further complicate things, in my LE II, Oliver put a reducer behind the bathroom register that necks it down from a 4 inch duct to a 3 inch duct further restricting airflow into the bathroom. They may have done this to make it feel like there was more air blowing into the bathroom (higher velocity but lower volume). I don't thing changing this from a 3 inch to a 4 inch would make much difference though, given the long duct run to the bathroom. I really wanted to turn my bathroom run into a straight, untapped duct run to the bathroom (i.e., eliminate the splitter) but determined it would not be acceptable without adding a third duct run off of the furnace, but that is next to impossible to do in my LE II, given the way Oliver installed the furnace in a vertical orientation. The furnace can be installed vertically or on its side. If Oliver had installed the furnace on its side, it would have been easy to run a third duct off of the furnace. It is not feasible to make that change now. I think probably the best that can be done now is to add a return air vent to the bathroom and add ventilation between the bathroom and main cabin as you are planning. I am getting ready to add a return vent to the bathroom in my LE II. I will probably put it in the recessed front of the vanity behind the towel bar, so that return air will directly warm the plumbing under the bathroom sink.

I'm not 100% sure where all the USB plugs are located in the Camper but one of my first projects when we get it will be to change out or add 12v and 115v USB plugs where needed. It's almost to the point with electronic devices to have these as standard items.

@Caddymvyou bet! Necessity was the mother of invention on this mod.

I am firmly in the camp that says exposed utilities that can be fully hidden show a lack of planning by the engineer or contractor. So, on this one issue we diverge. That said, I have t agree that the hide job was well done!

You could just subscribe to/follow individual forums that you do wish to follow, and not the others. And change your notification settings in "account." I think that would do it. Or, do as I do. Mostly ignore anything that comes up in "blogs."

We're starting a garage project now. Current plan is for a 14' tall and 12' wide Ollie door, flanked by two 12' wide x 10' high doors for the truck and car. The bays will be 30' deep. We went with an oversized trailer door so it would fit other travel trailers, Class Bs, or large trucks, too. And backing a dually into a 10' wide door isn't fun.

There are no outlets flanking the night stand, hence the mod. On the newer model Olivers the number of outlets has been reduced. And a few inches of cord visible at that location is really not a distraction at all. At least for us! 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

I plan to do something like you suggest I was just trying it out to see what effect it would have before I got carried away. If and when I change out the duct I may also put the splitter in the line feeding the two vents under the bed rather than the duct that feeds the bathroom. Providing a straight shot to the bathroom, I think that will also improve the overall air flow. I’m also thinking of putting a butterfly vent in the upper left corner of the bathroom door like mainiac did not so much for heating but to improve ventilation when using the shower, I like his idea. We tend to camp in colder weather and opening the window when using the shower tends to get rather chilly when it’s below freezing out side. Bill

First off, I’ve edited my earlier post with regard to the material DIYvans uses for their roof adapters. I was having a hard time resolving their price versus material and fabrication costs with HDPE. Turns out their adapters are actually machined from UV resistant expanded PVC, which obviates another question I had as to color availability. (Any color you want as long as it’s black). Also, I'm changing some terminology to reflect Houghton parts list names. The idea for a modified design of the DIYvans roof adapter is still in the back of my mind, but this issue doesn’t concern me enough to justify the cost to produce. If Houghton comes back with “Oh yeah, we have a fix for that”, I’d probably redo my installation however. As I mentioned previously, capturing just the larger drain holes would only provide a partial solution. Assuming the size and shape would even work, mimicking the Penguin II by attaching four of those drip pans would involve modifications to the Base for fasteners. It would not be as simple as just running in some self drilling screws. But there's more.... The biggest problem I see with your plan to use an additional roof gasket is the difference in mounting schemes, Dometic versus Houghton. The Dometic A/C is soft-mounted with a foam seal establishing a cushion between the fiberglass roof and metal base pan. The A/C fasteners are tightened down to compress this seal until a specified clearance between the roof and A/C is achieved. Adding the additional seal from the drip pan kit just increases this dimension. In contrast, the Houghton uses a hard-mounting scheme in that the Roof Mount bracket directly contacts the fiberglass roof (sealed with liquid sealant) and the A/C Base is compression-sealed on top of the bracket. The A/C fasteners are torqued to a specified value that ensures sufficient clamping force between all three components. If the Roof Mount bracket was isolated from the roof with a compliant foam seal, the required clamping force would be near-impossible to achieve or maintain resulting in an unreliable compression-seal. I'm not sure this scheme lends itself to your broken ruler scenario but enlighten me. If you were really committed to pursuing the Dometic drip pan solution, I suppose you could cut a riser for the Roof Mount bracket out of one-inch HDPE and notch the top for the drip pan tubes. Sealing for leaks might be iffy though. Might give you something to think about though. Regarding Shims: I cut nearly full length pieces for each side of the Roof Mount bracket and adjoining end pieces to-length as required. Lengths and widths are actually just short of the bracket flange dimensions so edges would be concealed by silicone sealant. Stock thickness would be as-required, 0.010 or 0.020 maybe? I’d recommend checking each installation first though because there could be enough variation between Oliver’s upper shell moldings that shimming wouldn’t be necessary. As far as runoff, I have both awnings and this issue is no different than when the Penguin pans would occasionally overflow. Condensation just rolls off the sides and down to the awnings, which channel it to the rear corners aft of the windows. I suppose some of that stick-on window guttering might work for situations without an awning. Be sure to include pictures.👌

Great use for an old boat cushion. It doesn't have to float on pavement,or atop a bucket, just give our old bones a bit of cushion. We also have knee pads, and some old carpet scraps, for work at home. Everything helps!

This is the one thing that I found was in a very inconvenient place, the fresh water drain valve (Elite II). I think this electric valve install should be stand on the Oliver trailers, just a pain the "a" to get to, lifting the bed and all the covers just to operate the value. trainman

For our bathroom window I put up a couple of small, clear on command clips. The microfiber towel we use to wipe things down after a shower gets hung there to dry, also serving as a curtain. Mike

Thanks bhncb and CRM for the replies! I know I had seen your responses, but I am obviously no internet sleuth. Those are some very good mods and definitely worth considering. This will def help in my consideration for this mod. Cheers!

I just completed the mounting of our Tire Minder TPMS booster, following your excellent instructions and photos. I am pleased with the location of the booster and the relative ease of installation, relying on your post. Thanks for posting!

Moved to this state for a job and retired here. It's a great place to live and play. Took this shot at Linville Gorge, not too far from Linville Falls Federal campground, on the BRP. We like camping there late spring and early fall.

I find it perplexing that a few folks on the Oliver forum complain about restrictive practices on the Oliver Facebook page and other social media platforms, and then want to limit the scope of conversations and topics on this forum. I'll be the first one to say that some topics, language and view points can come across as distasteful, or inappropriate. But discussing different aspects of RVing in general is as far from those bad characteristics as a discussion could be. Complaining and even demanding the removal of any thread or conversation pertaining to any aspect of RVing comes across to me as most exclusive and distasteful, as long as the discussion maintains a respectful tone. There are a number of topics that I have found to be of little interest to me on this forum, so I don't bother to follow them. But topics of general interest about RV travels are always interesting to me. I'd rather read them here than have to search the net to find them. I hope that when we attend our first Oliver Rally we aren't made to feel like we can only talk about Oliver campers.

Fixed it for you 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

I'm not surprised at all by this article. In my experience with Oliver I've never gotten the impression that they only saw me as a person to sell a trailer to. I was even asked why I wanted an Oliver at one point. Potential customers come to this Forum because they are interested in RV's - not just because they are interested in Olivers. Indeed, some that come to the Forum eventually decide (for a whole host of reasons) to not buy an Oliver. A few buy an Oliver and later decide that there is something they think will satisfy their needs better. Given the popularity of toy haulers, why not address the elephant in the room? I've always believed that more information is better and should lead to owners that have considered the pluses and minuses of all the choices in the market. Bill