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You need to contact Progressive Industries and relate all you details to them. Something doesn’t seem correct here and I would not want you to find out the hard way that your unit is not working properly. Do you need technical support? Check out our troubleshooting page or contact technical service directly (Phone: 1-800-307-6702 press 2)

I never plug The Wonder Egg into a campground power pole without checking it with an external surge protector first, to check for electrical anomalies. Over the years, I've found several reverse polarity or no-ground situations. These can result in damage to your electrical devices or a shock hazard to yourself. I always contact the park manager and either have it repaired on the spot or I move to another location. (and check again, of course) One of my long time camping friends had $800 electrical damage to his Bigfoot trailer due to a faulty outlet. I will aways remember the night I watched an Airstream arrive in camp and the owner immediately connected directly to the box without testing the pole first. The sparks that flew out of the box were spectacular! Don't be him . . . check the pole and trust your readings.

I carry a countertop induction burner. Works great, when we have 110. Which, we rarely have.. Propane stove is great.

This isn't your first time ever connecting to shore power is it? You're not using any sort of adapter on your shoreline cord are you? I would NOT bypass the Oliver Progressive unit without further study. If you know how to correctly use a multimeter, I'd check the campground pedestal connection first. If you don't know how, find someone who can and see if the pedestal is wired correctly.

RV rated up to 67 pounds. https://bikerumor.com/new-kuat-2-hitch-adapter-turns-the-piston-sr-roof-rack-into-a-1-bike-hitch-rack/ John Davies Spokane WA

The induction stove, if it was a two coil stove, would likely require 3000 watts and up to 3500 watts. That would be like adding another AC unit or another convection microwave. I doubt the electric system could support that very well without major design changes. I know they make smaller ones but this is the typical RV induction stove. We like induction as well so we have already purchased a 1500 watt counter top model we can use both inside or outside with the 110 plug on the curb side.

UPDATE We now have power. The belief is that the 8 inches of wet Arizona snow the day before we arrived forced moisture into the Park pole outlet causing the surge protectors to signal reverse polarity. However not sure why the internal Oliver surge protector (why working by not allowing power in) did not give me an error code.

NO during production, MAYBE in service after the sale is completed. You provide the parts they provide the labor at $150.00 or more per hour.

Here's our 2015 LE2 12V fan for a three way Dometic refrigerator that has a temperature controlled on/off switch and a on/off switch on the main panel at the entrance door.

I pulled my old 3 way fridge out yesterday and was so disgusted, that I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade. Here is a good description of the unit, https://reparadise.co/product/isotherm-cruise-130-elegance/?attribute_power=AC%2FDC&attribute_fridge-finish=Black Isotherm home page with manuals. https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/product/show/cruise-130/ I would appreciate any detailed closeups from current owners of the installation, and alsoany from those who have fitted one into an older hull. Can we keep this thread as a general discussion of this model? I will post a separate How To thread when I am done. Thanks John Davies Spokane WA EDIT 05/12/23: some other related threads from this forum: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9172-isotherm-shelves-fix/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9169-how-to-isotherm-intelligent-control-for-cruise-130-refrigerator/

Greetings! We're the new owners of Hull 693 and are excited to hit the road. The last few years have allowed a fair amount of tenting and two years of truck camping. The Ollie is a huge upgrade! We're planning a couple of local shake down runs and then in late summer we plan to head into the northern Rockies and follow the temps south for several weeks. Next year the plan is Alaska. I have spent several hours on the forum trying to get a quick education but I realize there is much to learn. My first question is about coupler locks. What is the current recommendation for securing the coupler while out exploring? Thanks!

I carry a multi meter for all types of troubleshooting. These 3 items are my go to tools for testing any new power pole we connect to which may have 15A, 30A or 50A service. Mossey

Found the fan on my 2021 Norcold. You can’t see it by opening both exterior vents. I needed to use my phone to take a picture from bottom looking up. It would be a ***** to change if needed. I also installed a piece of rubber between the 3/8 gas line after bending in Down a little it’s was rubbing on the black hot gas line. Don’t need a leak on either system.

The Dometic 3 way did not have a fan originally. At some point it started to come with one pre-installed by the factory, so Oliver no longer added a separate fan and circuit. That is how it is in Hull 218, delivered in April 2017. Unfortunately the Dometic fan is located right in the middle where you cannot access it to clean or replace it when it starts to screech. You can barely see it with a flex borescope… You can disconnect the fan’s power wire from the circuit board, I ran my fridge that way for years, but I no longer recommend that you do that. If the fridge has never been out for inspection, you should do it now and not later. The Oliver Dometic installation is STUPID ENGINEERING, frustrating for the owner and above all it is a very serious fire hazard. Fact not opinion. Please read this thread: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/8865-fridge-fires-if-you-have-an-older-hull-you-really-need-to-pull-out-that-fridge-now/ John Davies Spokane WA

I agree, and would ask the campground to allow you to move to another site to at least try another power post. If electricity will pass at a different site, you can assume your "watch dog" gave you good info although I would have expected the EMS to have thrown an E-1 code, certainly not E-0.

Responses: *Oliver worked fine at previous campgrounds. *Used adapter on 15 amp outlet and surge protector showed same error. So it's the post...?

The voltage number will vary a bit depending on the shore power. Normal AC shore/household power voltage is usually in the range of 110 to 125 volts. AC shore power frequency (the H value) is usually controlled very tightly by power companies and should always read 60 Hertz, so the shore power voltage and frequency are not the problem. It’s odd that the Progressive unit in your trailer is showing E0 (normal/no errors) but your external surge protector at the post is showing a reversed line-neutral problem with the shore power. That reversed line (hot) and neutral wire error should be showing an E1 error on the Progressive display.

I manual switch is REALLY helpful when in the middle of the night that fan decides to start screaming like some demon - don't ask me how I know this. Bill

My fan switch is located on the main switch panel just inside the door. I don’t know why they stopped, but I do know they are located differently in some trailers. You can always add your own as some others have done. Mossey

twdavid’s profile shows that he has a 2017 Elite II. That means his trailer came with a Dometic 3-way refrigerator. Oliver installed exhaust fans with a manual on/off switch for some time. All of us responding also have 2014-2017 Elite II’s with the Dometic and manual fan. It would be nice if folks put a complete signature block so we could quickly see what year and model they have. If they don’t you can always go to their profile to find out. Mike

Try Rivernerd’s Google search "Oliver converter inverter" above and then try "site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum converter inverter", with forum converter inverter being the search words you are looking for at olivertraveltrailers.com. Then compare the results. There is an old saying about computers "garbage in, garbage out" which means that the computer will give you just what you ask for. And a ‘thank you’ goes out to DavidS, who shared the specific site:Oliver travel trailers.com a few years back. Mossey

Yes it does need to be raised enough to remove the screws that the cups are attached with. You can see the screws in Steve’s picture. I flipped mine over on its back while it was still on the roof. That made it a little easier to remove the old gasket and sealant. But before removing or raising the AC, you should remove the plastic evaporator cover under the foam insulation. That will allow you troubleshoot a little further. It is attached with press in tabs around the perimeter and a few screws. I was then able to use a measuring cup to put water into the drain channels to pinpoint the leak. Mossey

External.

I was referring to my Oliver OEM external fan. I have replaced both the fan and the thermostat. My add-on internal fan runs all of the time. Mossey

I noticed AC condensate water dripping off the rear curb side roof at a COE campground along the Arkansas River and chalked it up the the high humidity we were experiencing. The next day we were at Choctaw Lake in Mississippi and the water started running off over the curb side window. After experimenting with leveling the trailer, I found that when the curb side was low, the water ran off that side. I could move the runoff water to the rear by raising the nose. And best of all , I could stop all roof runoff by raising the curb side and all of the water drained from condensate drain tube. We did some troubleshooting at home and found that water would leak from the curb side condensate drain cup whenever the curb side was low. I finally found a posting on the Airstream forum about installing the drain pan kit. I ordered the kit and an extra foam gasket. I completed the drain kit installation when I gained access to a shop and could take my time removing the AC and find out the source of the leak, which was a broken nipple on the curb side drain cup. I don’t know if this will have any bearing on your issue, but I know my troubleshooting took me in a different direction than I was heading in at the very start. Mossey

Agree with John. We rarely turn our fan on. If the temps outside are really high we will, but normally it’s off. Mike

no. John Davies Spokane WA

I believe it's the same as the LEII 75" L x 25.25" W

If you haven’t yet, I’d contact one of the Oliver sales reps and ask your questions. For those kind of questions most of us can only offer opinions. I don’t think they would do either. The toilet mounts are probably very different and the standard stove is propane versus electric for induction with new wiring and mounting differences. Mike

My condensate tubing used to plug up on a regular basis. One of the tubes located in the ac inlet area just behind the inlet filter was slightly kinked and wouldn’t drain well so would plug up often. Once I straightened that out I’ve not had any issues. To clear the plugged line before I eliminated the kink, I used a short section of 3/4 in heater hose and adapted it to a garden hose. The heater hose fit perfectly over the condensation drain underneath the trailer so I would simply back flush the drain line. The water would overflow the cups forcing built up crud out onto the roof. You should also make sure that the soft caulking that’s around the two drain hoses as they go through the roof seal (just behind the ac inlet grill/filter) to the cups is complete. Otherwise water from the cups can wick back into the trailer and drip through the inlet grill and onto the floor.

GREAT! The bug that keeps on giving!

Planning is not my strong point so I’ll have to take your word on that! I just take life one hill at a time. Mossey

I wanted a very capable but still somewhat compact truck as a tow vehicle so I went in the opposite direction of your thinking. I found an F-250 SuperCab (rear suicide doors) with short (6’-9”) bed. It’s only my wife and me when we travel, and this truck keeps the overall length a bit more reasonable for maneuvering around with the truck, but still has a lot of room in the cab and the bed, and huge towing and payload capacity. The SuperCab has no door pillar between the front and rear doors when the doors are open, so it’s very easy access to the rear seats. We do a lot of day trips with the truck after setting up the camper at the campground, so I wanted something at least a little more “compact” (a relative term when we are talking about a 3/4 ton truck 🙂) to make it easier to get around in downtown areas, parking lots, narrow roads, etc as we do our exploring during the day.

John, pretty sure this is the same fridge/freezer that now comes with the 2023 trailers….if it is maybe the factory can send you some pics?