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I just spent a day at the Mothership and Anita is back at the office, doing her usual great job helping folks find their forever trailer. It was good to see her again.

I haven't ever seen anything like that in our 2020 Oliver and I have always had 9 temp sensors located throughout the trailer. I took some "baseline" temps all around the trailer in 2020 before I made some HVAC changes and I was seeing temps under the curbside bed in the low 60's when it was in the 20's outside and the inside temp was set at 70. I still have the data / graphs. It seems to me like something "abnormal" is causing an excessive heat buildup under your curbside bed when your heat is running. Maybe one of your ducts has a hole in it and it's pushing the hot air right at your temp sensor?

When we ordered last August, not getting solar was not an option with lithium. They came as a package. As noted previously, changing to lithium/solar later is a very expensive proposition. Much more than getting it from the get go. Almost all of the wiring needs to be replaced with the heavier wire that lithium needs, along with the different controllers, and other components. I'm probably misremembering, but I thought someone checked with Oliver, and it was going to be about $10k more than having it done when built. For us, the choice to add the Platinum Pro package was the most expensive option, and the easiest to swallow. On some of your other questions, here's my response as first time trailer owners (we had a square-back teardrop prior, so basically dry tent camping.) Auto Drain: We opted not to get this for two reasons. Keeping things simple (it relies on an electrical switch and a motor), but more importantly, it is out of sight, so something you might forget. With the manual handle, when closing up the trailer, I always fold the steps and look inside to make sure the handle is pressed in. Doing those routinely together ensures I'll never forget (yea, right...) And if like me, you didn't pay attention during the walkthrough, simply remember Drive-In, CampOut. Handle is in when driving, and out while camping (or dumping) We opted not to get the electric door lock. Just something else to go wrong. The key is smaller than the fob when carrying in a pocket. The backup camera was the last thing we decided on when ordering. (Actually, much later, because you can change your order up to the point where you pay off the first 50%) I had considered adding my own, but having the wiring and witch already in place saved a lot of headaches. I expected to only use it while backing into a site, but in actuality, I never do. I use it a *lot* on the highway when watching traffic behind me, and especially when changing lanes. Upgraded mattresses: When we ordered was when Oliver was changing from KTT to whoever makes the current mattresses. When visiting other owners with the KTT mattress, we loved the firmness, and had decided to go that route. When we got to the factory for our tour and to order, they'd switched vendors. Some people love them, but we found them much too soft and flimsy, almost like a cheap motel mattress. So we ordered without the upgrade option, and then ordered a pair of Oliver specific mattresses direct from KTT. Shipped to our home, they were almost the same cost as the Oliver upgrade. A few other owners have done the same. Here's what we ordered: - Oliver Legacy Elite II Twin Bed - Standard Mattresses (KTT mattresses after receipt) - Standard Fabric - Midnight - Hypervent - Omnidirectional Antenna (local weather etc. if we don't have cell service) - Street Side Awning - Frosted Cabinet Doors - Convection Microwave - 20 Gallon Propane (to keep tongue weight down) - Front/Rear Propane Quick-Connects - Standard Toilet (with possible AirHead composting replacement) - Full Truma Package AC, Furnace, Water Heater and Antifreeze kit - Lithium Platinum Package - Backup Camera - Rear Bumper Receiver (converted to 2" after receipt) - Anderson Hitch - Aluminum Storage Basket - Basement Door - No Graphics Over six months after our pickup date and 44 nights of use, there's nothing we'd have changed.

I expect yours is an absorption fridge. The 2023s come with compressor fridges. This is another reason to consider solar and lithium: a compressor fridge requires a fair amount of power, and very few RVers get along without a fridge. Also, many campgrounds limit the hours you can use a generator. If you plan to rely on a generator, I hope we don't end up camping next to you! (with all due respect) Yes, the lithium upgrade is pricey. But, unless used nearly full time, Lithionics LiFePO4 batteries should last at least 10 years, likely more like 15. Wet cell or AGM batteries must be replaced every 3-5 years regardless of use. Over time, the marginal cost differential between lithiums and lead/acids is not that great.

John is right on the money here. The YouTube videos don't give you the whole story and those people aren't you. We rented before we bought our first trailer and it was very instructive as to what we needed and wanted. RVing has as many problems and frustrations as regular house living (maybe more) and those problems are different than the ones you're used to.

You still need to do a LOT of research before you start checking options in the order form. This is a good start: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/ I **** STRONGLY ***** recommend that you delay your order and rent a small travel trailer for a few weeks. You will learn more in a single day than you will thru months of videos. You may even decide that you do not like the whole concept, or that you are uncomfortable with towing. You might prefer a Class B or even a truck camper, neither of which will work with your new truck. The basic rule is to buy the camper first, then the truck that works best for it! Doing it the other way causes lots of heartache. And it is so very common. There have been several excited Oliver newbies that discovered that they just could not adapt to the lifestyle and the many technical challenges, and they sold their trailers shortly afterwards. This is very preventable. Take it very slowly and be sure you know enough to make educated decisions. John Davies Spokane WA

We are meeting up with friends here in Arkansas near Bull Shoals lake. Rural Arkansas is a pretty area. We are slowly making our way east to enjoy fall again. 😊

The most common cause of failure is the 7 pin plug and connector between the truck and trailer. Check the contacts on each for bent connectors or corrosion. (I've been able to resurrect a trailer connector in the past by gently bending a prong back into place with a flathead screwdriver, but with a trailer so new yours shouldn't be that worn.) CAUTION: Pin 4 on both truck and trailer may be "hot" (connected to the battery) at all times in some installations, so don't short that one out.

Yep - pics are viewable. Shame - it WAS pretty though. Bill

We’re right in the path, it was pretty interesting to see. I didn’t get very dark, stood out in the driveway with our neighbors taking turns with the eclipse glasses. Definitely a ring of fire. Mike

Here in northern Ohio, all I see is rain. I'm hoping for better during April's solar eclipse since I'm right on the path, but being Ohio in the spring, It'll probably be similar. I can at least guarantee that it will be dark for 3 minutes and 52 seconds, whether you can see the eclipse or just a bunch of clouds. 🙂

If your 2019 LE II is the standard bed model (like my 2020), then yes, it is (unfortunately) normal and reflects a design flaw on Oliver's part. I would speculatgethat NCeagle's 2020 LE II has the twin bed option which would explain why NCeagle hasn't observed the same phenomena. In our particular vintage of LE II's, Oliver placed only a single air return duct in the very back on the curbside immediately in front of the furnace. When the standard bed is set up and the furnace is running, most of the hot air blowing out the supply ducts can't escape the cavity under the bed and is immediately pulled back through the return duct and into the furnace. This hotter air into the furnace in turn causes the supply air temperature to become even hotter which in turn causes hotter return air into the furnace which increases the temperature of the supply air, etc. Meanwhile, the air temperature in the cabin takes forever to increase because the hot air from the supply vents is immediately pulled back into the furnace and doesn't mix well in the cabin. As the intake air around the furnace (i.e., water pump) gets hotter, the heat exchanger in the furnace gets hotter and eventually overheats and triggers a safety shut-down of the furnace flame before the cabin actually reaches the temperature set point; referred to as short-cycling. From your pictures, it looks like your furnace started short-cycling badly when you increased the thermostat set-point just before 8 in the morning. It appears that it took over an hour to raise the cabin temperature by 10 degrees quite probably due to the short-cycling. I doubt this is an issue in the twin bed model because the hot air from the supply vents can freely mix into the cabin air and doesn't get trapped under the bed to be fed immediately back into the furnace. The quick fix for standard bed owners is to open another furnace return vent on the street side of the trailer forward of the bed. This helps pull hot air out from under the bed and returns that hot air to the furnace via the street side basement opening and over the water tanks. My 2020 LE II has a nice round access hatch on the streetside below the pantry (to access the Inverter GFCI). In the heating season, I just remove that access cover to that streetside hatch and the short cycling problem is solved, the furnace runs quieter, basement temps are more even throughout, and the furnace/thermostat do a much better job keeping a constant temperature at the set point chosen.

Well, this started out VERY badly, but ended fairly well, the trailer turned out to be crap, pardon my French, and i was able to get a full refund (eventually, after five weeks) from the dealer. I started a new thread at Expedition Portal. I am interested in reading some of their remarks, I think it will be entertaining, Please go here (free to read, I am not sure about viewing attachments without joining (and that too is free), let me know about that please.): https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/apogee-adapt-x-folding-utility-trailer-cool-design-big-fail-in-the-execution.241264/ John Davies Spokane WA

N Rim CG closing water and seasons operation on Sunday. In 30’s at night and 55 today. 75% of food and ice cream! Store is almost bare.

👍

Geoff, et. al., This is something I started doing after loosing a couple of 2 liter bottles of water that dislodged in a bundle of 4 and started to roll around on the floor and slide into the gentle rounded corners on the inside of the trailer (and still rupture and leak...) as we were merrily rolling along through the NWT & YT this last summer. I got a couple of milk crates and put them in the Dinette footwell, behind the table support tube on the street side of the dinette. They insert best by removing the cushions and sliding them in empty from the top. once in, they self adjust so they are both held in the area by the table center pole. We now keep (4) large bottles of water in one, and maybe some other soda/water bottles/cans in the other side. We have not had any issues since I decided to do this. After reading the "LP/CO Detector" section of our manual about placing something in front of the unit that may impede the ability to function as it does, the milk crates should not be a problem. Read the section of the product manual which addresses what liquids that you should not store next to the "LP/CO Detector". B~Out

We didn't get the electric door lock on our 2022 Elite II, because some folks on this forum noted issues with them. One poster got locked in the trailer when it malfunctioned and had to crawl out the rear window! We have not regretted saving $$$$ by going with the standard key lock. We keep the key in the center console of our truck.

That's what I've found on two occasions with our Platinum Pro package. The first time I ran the AC exactly two hours, and the batteries were at 81% after. This was in May, and using solar only, it took 48 hours to recover. This was using the factory 400W panels without my additional 200W portable panel. In August I ran the AC for about six hours (untimed) and the batteries were at I think 38% after. I was at an electric site a couple days later, so didn't check to see how long the solar would take to recover. So, AC uses about 10% per hour of running time with the Platinum Pro package, and takes about 24 hours per hour of running time to recover using 400W solar only.

I hear you. And I sincerely appreciate the input. We have tent-camped many, many times. We know we are done with that. We have rented a truck/trailer precisely once. Many years ago with the kids. We loved it. I know I DON'T want a class A or B or truck camper. I admit the possibility I might fail with the trailer, too. But, that would leave me with hotels. 😞 So, we are gonna try to make this work. I'm very comfortable that we have enough truck to be safe. I'm also very comfortable that we are getting a better trailer than we could have ever hoped for. But I'm not at all familiar with the everyday use of the machinery. So, I have lots to learn. For the most part, I figure I will just live with whatever the answer turns out to be. For example, I already thought I knew that shore-power/generator were the only really practical ways to run the AC. We don't plan on using it much anyway. And, for trips where it's required, I'm cool with getting a spot with hookups. But I don't know what kind of surge protector to buy or what amperage to connect to or..... One of my original posts, and the conversation I frequently have with my wife, is: "If someone gave me a base Ollie from 10 years ago and I had to live with it...." Well that would exceed anything I've ever had before. So, all of the "options" are well and truly that for me: optional. Still, I have a lot to learn.

You can't run the A/C off any of the non-lithium OEM packages. With the Platinum lithium package you can run the standard A/C for a few hours. But, you still have to put that energy back in the batteries somehow. That leaves you either running the generator or going to full hookups to recharge. In actual usage this summer we ran the generator on the Platinum battery system for about an hour before bed on a few nights of a 2 week trip. The solar wasn't able to to completely replace those watts the next day but we had enough total capacity to get through the trip without needing the generator. In other words, we were able to run the A/C off battery for short periods on the really bad nights. I think each hour used roughly 10% of our total capacity. When I get a chance, I'll check my notes.

Arnold?🤔

Zamp connector compatible solar panel suitcase build here: https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/here-comes-the-sun

Nice hat! It looks like you've made the turn to the east?

B flat, A, C, B natural p.s. DUH! wrong composer!

On our way from Santa Rosa, NM to Amarillo this morning we just had to stop at the Cadillac Ranch and rattle can paint a Caddie. We then had a great Texas style steak dinner at the Big Texan…the steaks were excellent. I highly recommend the Big Texan for dinner if you are ever in east Amarillo. It was nice to be back in Texas if only for a brief time. Onward east to Oklahoma tomorrow. Patriot🇺🇸 Spot our Oliver.

Cold drizzle and gray skies in Indiana. Now waiting for the April event.

We are in base camped in Fayetteville, Arkansas and it was cloudy, so a no go here. Patriot🇺🇸

Oliver is 2022 LE II. We know they worked last spring when we towed from TX to WA. Been sitting in WA all summer, during which time we haven't towed it.