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Never posted in this section of our Forum before, yet after reading the topic it seemed appropriate for this post! After what you will soon learn we enjoyed a breathless day today. In a way it's about our story, how we found Prescott AZ some 30 years ago on weekend side trip, off my regular Motorola business trip to Phoenix, and we had a great weekend! Fast forward 10 years later and our family did a 3-week car trip west to find a new place to live somewhere west, leaving comfortable surroundings of Northern Virginia. We left VA heading to Houston and had Christmas with Chris' daughter. The rest of the family left to San Antonio, the Alamo of course, Sante Fe and Taos NM, other stops and had a New Years HomeAway rental for a week in Flagstaff. Flagstaff was cold, sitting on I-40, a transient town for those to-n-from California and visitors to the Grand Canyon. We did day trips to Sedona of course, Cottonwood and the Verde Valley and it only took one more day in Prescott to know it is the place. Closed on our N VA home in Hamilton VA, June 2005, and moved to Prescott. I thought of living west most of my life. Attending High School in DuPage Co IL and all there was to do was drive west through miles of flat cornfields, with nothing to do, nothing to see. Our friends here and elsewhere come back from trips to Italy or South America and say, you got to go! Others ask, why are you not out on the road more in your RV (or now the Oliver)? When we lived in Chicago, everybody had to leave the city as often as possible. "Escape to Wisconsin" and "Say Yes, Michigan" were the local sayings, meaning "get outta Dodge!" We moved from the city to North Barrington, IL. 50 miles out! I started liking staying home on weekends. Actually LOVED doing yardwork, of all things (though I'm a weedwhacker and not a planter). I felt bad for the people who needed the escape to Wisconsin, as where we then lived, we were halfway there. Hmmm. Why do I want to leave a place as great as Prescott AZ? It is the greatest small city in Arizona, carefully selected over time. It is the ONLY city of any size in Arizona not on an Interstate. Think about that fact!? Literally 50 miles SE to I-17 or 50 miles north to I-40 and I-10 is a whole 110 miles away. You got to want to go to Prescott to drive by here. It's not Phoenix or Tucson, thank goodness and it's not the desert valley, nor the snowy higher elevations. We had an amazing day today. Played pickleball and won 5 out of 6 games. Adam joined the club today and he met many good people. Always do a spa after sports. For 6 years, I've been trying to figure out how to mod a camper with a hot tub. 🤣 Drinks on the deck and we cooked dinner together (I'm in charge of drinks, Adam and Chris are very good cooks). We have GREAT weather up here. I'm going to end with pictures from our night, all from tonight. It was spectacular, most are from our deck, and a few are front of house. Monsoon season started early this year, and we will have another dozen crazy evenings over the next few months! Many of you would pull your Olivers for days, to experience such a camp as we have right here at home. PLEASE COME VISIT as all of you that I know here are certainly always welcome. We have partial hookups too! I promise to pry my older fingers off the weedwhacker and the other tools I love, just long enough to get 45 days away in the Oliver during our upcoming 2024-2025 season. Hope to meet many of you during the October Texas Meet. God Bless y'all on this Sunday.

You can find some that have a mounting plate => [Upgraded Version] 12V USB Outlet Qidoe 78W 3 Port USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W & 18W USB A Port with Voltmeter Lengthened Aluminum Body Switch Waterproof USB Car Charger Socket for Car Boat Marine RV https://a.co/d/07mCzHx6 The most I have seen using the ones I installed to charge an iPad is 4.5 amp or around 52 watts. I really just wanted USB-C connections since everything has switched over to that and to be able to fast charge my phone, iPad, etc. Of course the MacBook can charge easily from 50w as well. But I am not an electrician and routinely do things that are above my experience level so I will be the first to say don’t do what I do without doing your own homework.

For anyone interested in purchasing one, Home Depot has the Maxxfan with LED on sale for $73 at the moment. MaxxFan Dome Plus with 12-Volt Fan and LED Light

Just so I understand your question. Do you mean the CO2 / propane detector under the dinette by the electrical panel? If so, then yes, I pulled the fuse during one of my tests to see where the draw was coming from. During one test ALL 12v fuses were pulled out, just to be sure. Good news this morning. After putting the trailer in "dark mode" last night, (with everything off and breakers popped open) the Blue Sky seems to have "fixed itself". After verifying the batteries had stabilized down to 12.94v and were holding this morning, I powered up the solar controller and reset the rear breakers. In short order I noticed a more "expected" behavior from the ProRemote, with only a draw of -1.1 amps, while it was rethinking it's life's decisions. LOL I verified all settings as Ryan from BlueSky had me set them to a few years ago (same batteries). All was well there. One test I did, out of curiosity, was to change, just for a few minutes, the "self discharge" setting. Ryan, and the user manual, suggested keeping it at 10% for FLA batteries. I put it to 0.00% to see what the ProRemote would say the draw would be. It immediately dropped down to 0.0amps. After re-reading the ProRemote user manual in the house, I went back out and set it back to 10% self discharge. The ProRemote leveled out to what I would consider a more "normal" behavior for my system, with a draw of -1.1amps consistently. As the sun is coming up now, the system is going from float to acceptance and back again as needed. Also, the charge level hashes (#####) appeared much, much sooner after turning the system back on, compared to yesterday or day before. Previously they would not show up for hours, which frankly I think was a normal behavior for my system if the power was taken away from the BlueSky for a while. Either way, it feels like it is "happier" now. I'll keep an eye on it throughout the day. I'll keep only solar on it for now and keep the shore power off until I confirm it's behavior. Thanks again! Great fun learning something new that does not involve a keyboard and a desk. LOL I still have not gotten around to checking the draw using my clamp multimeter. I will, hopefully today. Depends how busy I get at work.

There is also a control panel with an On/Off button on the face of my Xantrex 2000. The wall-mounted remote is used to control power to the unit and the one on the Xantrex is kept in the Off position.

Painted Cowboy is who I used both times I had my trailer delivered to me from Tennessee they were prompt and very accomodating to my ever changing schedule and their rate is pretty much the industry standard. The staff at oliver have their contact info if you need it as I believe they've referred several others to them over the years.

@topgun2 it's not the inverter. Good thought, but like you, I really don't use it too much. It's in an off state. I must say, I've had a good bit of fun touching all this stuff and getting more hands-on. I've been wanting to find something in retirement, whatever that will look like for me, to replace my current IT job/hobby. Something where I'm moving around more yet still staying technical. Thirty years of desk work on a keyboard in data centers has taken its toll on my back and neck. My interest has been solar and batteries for a long time, but have been nervous about doing things on my own. Usually I find when I do finally accomplish a new task or learn a new skill, I find it wasn't that hard after all. I'm a big scaredy-cat. LoL

This is the switch in the cubby above the street side bed

When the mosquito meter is in the 5-6 range, you can resort to a: Mosquito head net

Probably one of my favorite toys I picked up during my time In galveston. It was the year that there was a huge population explosion of the giant quarter sized mosquitos that have a pretty painful bite. I think 2017 or 18. Many of the hallways at the school were spotted with blood spots from students smacking mosquitos against the walls. They had to put up signs asking folks to avoid doing that.

Is it just me or is there something extremely satisfying about that sound of yet another mosquito being fried when hit with the "tennis racquet"?

Another mosquito magnet here. The campground at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory was the worse for mosquitoes. This was my setup. The older, dark green Thermacell I set on the right side of the steps going into the Oliver and never had a mosquito get inside. The Repel spray works great if you have to leave the Thermacell shield of protection to go for a walk or otherwise leave the campsite. The severity of the mosquitoes depends on the weather. When we went to Alaska in 2016 they weren’t that bad except in wet, rainy heavily wooded campgrounds, but it pays to be prepared.

Two years ago I installed the "Gas Stop" devices on both my propane tanks. Given that my Oliver was 7 years old at the time I thought that it would also be prudent to install new "pig tail" propane hoses at the same time. At the end of the camping season last year I suspected that I had a small propane leak but since I was placing the Ollie into storage for the winter I didn't investigate the possible leak any further. However, I did purchase a propane leak detector - exactly like the one that Rivernerd mention in THIS THREAD. While attending the Annual Owner's Rally this year, my suspicion of the leak returned. So, today was the day to get serious about finding it. After getting the propane tanks in place and attaching the pig tails I opened the valve on what I thought was the offending tank. Sure enough, I not only smelled it but I even heard it! Obviously, the main brass fitting at the end of the pig tail was the problem (i.e. the fitting that screws directly into the regulator). So, I took that apart, cleaned it up, wrapped yellow Teflon gas specific tape on it and reinstalled. That solved the main smell and certainly the "hissing" issues, but, I still thought that I could smell a leak. Out comes the "bubble test" (i.e. a little dish soap in water sprayed onto the offending area and look for bubbles). Well, sure enough, there was a small leak in the brass reducer between the end of the pig tail and the main brass fitting that I had just repaired. OK, take it apart again, new tape all around, reinstall and using the "bubble test" I thought I had this issue nailed. Sure enough - no bubbles! Great, but maybe my nose was just getting to used to that wonderful propane smell. Maybe I was just imagining it - surely I had fixed everything that there was to be fixed AND there were no bubbles. Just to be sure I used the "test" feature on the Gas Stop devices. Yep - the needle in the little gauge was slowly dropping. I bubble tested again but had the same test result - no bubbles. Being a bit slow witted it was only at this point that I remember my purchase of the propane leak detector (thanks again Rivernerd). I got it out, read the directions and proceeded to "sniff". My repaired connections didn't set off any alarms. But, the connection from the pig tail to the large knob that screws onto the propane tank gave off a "faint" reading (actually a beeping noise on the detector). Sure enough - even though this was a "factory" installed item and I've never had one of these leak in over 25 years of dealing with propane tanks and pig tails, this was the final source of the leaking. I'm still surprised that the "bubble test" didn't show this leak but the "Smart Sensor" picked it up right away. There are a number of these types of sensors available currently on Amazon - both models that are priced higher and lower than the Smart Sensor (HERE). But, as Rivernerd said, "Not only is it worth the peace of mind, but even if only used once, it is less expensive than a motel stay!". Bill

That’s the kind of math I’m looking for 🙂

Well, before I had a chance to attempt a fix of the broken hinge, the other side broke shortly into a week’s trip. I did take a quick look prior to departure, but determined glue would likely not hold and besides, I misplaced the tiny spring. There was no urgency when heading out, since the single functional hinge had enough spring action to hold the freezer door closed. However, once it broke I had a troublesome floppy door to contend with. No bueno! Thankfully, I carry some Velcro strips and was able to rectify the problem temporarily. In fact now that I know the replacement hinges are fairly pricey, I may extend use of this fix for awhile longer. Double trouble: Short ‘hook’ section on each side of right door end: Back-to-back ‘hook’ and ‘loop’ strap for the door closure: Mas bueno!

If you look at my photo above, the wiring looks like automotive grade 14 AWG, though I have not measured it to be certain. 14 AWG wire has ampacity of 15A (16 AWG is 10A). 65W / 12 = 5.4A Given @rideadeuce has installed his and of course he has the Victron app, he could check amps before, then plug in an iPad and check the negative change in amps to verify actual usage numbers vs. theorical. I believe you'd be OK, but if 'twas me, I would upgrade the dinette area to the 65W and run new dedicated wiring to a dedicated fuse, since the fuse box is <2 FT away. Ampacity and voltage drop over cable length. The run to the overhead streetside bed is a long run and who knows if OTT has these outlets shared with anything else on the same run (wiring and fuse). There I would install the lesser wattage model for phones (20W) like the one I linked above, to be safer. We normally charge our laptops at the dinette anyway or via the 110V outlet at the nightstand and we charge our phones over the bed to be handy, so this arrangement works well for our usage.

Many of us read most of the new posts anyway, but to signal another member you can quote them or put the @ symbol in front of their forum name like @CnJTravel and members will see a notification when they login or they may have activated alerts. You should see two notifications since I quoted you and referred to your name. Also, read this section to add a signature and other housekeeping: How to Join and Use Oliver Travel Trailer Forums - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Of course, cushion replacement is not for you, but I wanted others to know of it. I believe we will buy those, just before we set out on Fall travel. Replacing all the cushions in the standard layout is a lot. We have already replaced our beds. The automotive cleaners are a form of dry cleaning. It is a lot of work for all the surface area you have, and it may not be thorough, may leave an odor. I would strongly suggest you talk to local carpet cleaning companies. Some would refuse this kind of work, but some do upholstery cleaning. Ask re that. You want the company that has the van-based system where the hot water is pushed into the fabric as is it vacuumed out. They'll have the small upholstery head for cleaning and first will spray with an appropriate cleaning solution that you could discuss. Depending on your location, if humid you will have to bring the cushions into an air-conditioned space for 1-2 days to allow them to fully dry. That's what I would do.

This is our first time using the forum. I hope this response appears as we are replying to all. We appreciate your responses regarding the seat cushions. We impulsively moved forward with washing the smallest seat cushion to test out washing on delicate with cold water and letting it air dry. I have to say, the shrinkage was not too bad. However, as SeaDawg mentioned, it was rough getting the foam into the narrow opening of the cover. We feared we would damage the zipper, and then getting the cover to look nice and neat and not wonky was a challenge! The batting that raps around the foam is difficult to keep in tact. If we continue with this method of cleaning we will consider the plastic idea to slip the foam and batting into the cover. We are divided in how we should move forward. jd1923, thank you for the link for the sunbrella cushions. You certainly opened our eyes to having covers with a fabric such as sunbrella. As our Oliver ages, we may consider new cushions with a sunbrella type of fabric custom made for us. Since our Oliver is only a couple years old, we will consider the automotive upholstery cleaner, and see how that does. {We do not have offensive stains or anythihng, just want to freshen the cushions up.). Thank you for all your suggestions. You have been very helpful : )

I wondered same thing, compressor stayed on until set temperature was met. On the 3rd test yesterday, for one cycle after changing T2 to 180, supply temp got down to 40 and compressor ran for 4 minutes. In a hurry to capture data between cycles I thought perhaps I had read temperature of supply air wrong. The only difference I can think of from yesterday and today is today I started the unit with set temp at 60 and high fan. Yesterday unit had ran for awhile, and not getting down to set temp, I then lowered set temp as low as it would go-but the compressor cycled anyways. Will try to simulate longer compressor on time to see if it will repeat.

If I'm following correctly, the compressor would only run for 3 min at a time yesterday but ran for 12:30 straight today? I wonder why? Also, may be perfectly normal for this unit, but a temperature differential between cabin temp and supply air over over 30 degrees seems too high to me. If the supply air is at 40 degrees the actual evaporator temp is most likely very close to freezing the condensate on the fins.

Started AC on high fan, set to 60 around 6:45 this morning, temperatures 79 and humidity 76%. Unit ran beautifully, compressor on for 12:30 with supply temps close to 40 degrees, humidity dropped to 49% at end of cycle. Changed set temp to 73, adjusted fan to low, cycled off. Also T2 was changed to 120 prior to start this morning. On low fan unit went through 10 cycles or almost 30 minutes until compressor came on, and then it only stayed on 1:34. During off time humidity had risen from 49 to 64%. Let unit cycle on low fan and the temperature maintained but humidity remained in the low to mid 60s. For our climate here where the humidity can be a problem, if the compressor is not on, the problem with humidity will remain or made worse by inducing moist air when compressor off and fan running. For my next test will setup unit to operate with relay only. Correction: Since I posted about an hour ago outside temperatures have risen to 89 degrees. Before making additional changes to Timer/relay decided to check how things were performing in camper. I had left unit on and I was pleasantly surprised to find set temperature (73) was good, humidity down to 52%, and unit was cycling through low fan setting. Will continue to monitor unit performance at current settings and report back. What Changed: If you look at outside temps of initial test this morning they were 10 degrees cooler at 79 degrees. Unit met set temp, cycled off, and took almost 30 minutes to cycle back on. During this off time fan was blowing moist air into cabin. Does this make sense?

It's been a year since mine was out-of-the-box new and installed but it does sound familiar to the time when I did not have the compressor fan relay mod and relocated indoor temperature sensor in the equation. I just used mine this weekend (it's in an Airstream, not an Oliver) parked in full sun and low 90s for the highs. When set to auto, my fan will come on high for a short while and then taper down to low as it gets cooler inside. During the hot part of the day, it would run on low for quite a while (an hour?) which was fine with me. It's very quiet and it kept the inside temperature at a comfortable 74 degrees which was the set point. At night, I like it cooler. I would set it to 70 degrees and it would maintain that. On cycles during the night were frequent and short. I don't know what the interior humidity was because I've stopped measuring it as that problem seems to be solved. My application is different from yours, though. I do not have the timer mod installed in mine but I do have the fan relay mod. Moving the indoor temperature sensor was a pretty easy task with my RV but might be significantly more difficult in the Olivers and Casitas.

John, We did not take the Oliver down Indian RTE 6 to the Colorado River. We left the trailer at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. The Indian RTE 6 was not paved but very rocky and had a lot of washboard. Trip was 20 miles down to the River, taken One Hour to make the trip with Truck only. Also you need a permit from Hualapai Game & Fish locate in Peach Springs, AZ . The permit cost $16.27 per person. When we made to the river, an Hualapai Game official check if I had the permit. I just made it home last Thursday. Trip duration 04-10-24 to 06-27-24. Best Regards, Allen

I have been considering doing this but had a small voice in the back of my head that keeps saying “check the wire gauge and the fuses.” Any concern with moving from the 5 watts to 65 watts on the factory wiring harness? I keep meaning to do the math, but I am bad enough on AC wire gauges, I’m still new to DC.

Curious is good! I would think the fan would cause a few amps and your Blue Sky monitor showed earlier a -2.3A draw. just keep your batteries charged in the meantime. It's great that you are visiting OTT Service, and they are and ALWAYS have been GREAT people! Have them do a full diagnostic and report and be happy to pay for their service. Love to see their report! There is nothing technical keeping you from this appointment. After that do NOT do any upgrades on-the-spot, but only required repairs. The Blue Sky solar charger TODAY, can be replaced with a modern Victron, for pennies on the dollar! Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) - Charge Controllers for Solar Panels - 100V, 30 amp, 12/24-Volt : Patio, Lawn & Garden You do NOT, how many times can I say the word NOT, NOT at all do you want AGM batteries in the day and age of 2024!!! (and do not buy 100AH BB batteries either). I upgraded the batteries my Bigfoot RV back in 2019 to AGM, since yes 5 years ago LiFePO4 were for the rich and famous (obviously that's not us). You can get one (1) 300AH Epoch battery for $1100 today, or 460AH for $1,399 (I suggest this option) and that's likely all you need. We here, Oliver Owners, the great people of this forum can help you with this. I'm planning so many solar/inverter/battery upgrades. And I will tell you, first stay conservative, read and learn, and I or @rideadeuce or @MAX Burner (the DC-to DC expert) and SO MANY OTHERS... will having you lovin' your solar/inverter/battery system ASAP or as soon as you may prefer. I respect your thoughtful posts. God Bless and cannot wait to meet you at an Oliver event. PM me with any questions. Best wishes, JD

@jd1923All good questions. First, I had to clean up the tray and paint it, so all the batteries had to be removed. Also, I have the new converter, so I was thinking "maybe" that had something to do with it, as I'm still learning the system. The great news is I'm learning and there's no better way to learn the system's behavior than with old gear that I cannot wait to get rid of. LOL I too noticed the light still on from the solar, but I just now noticed it takes a few moments to go out after killing the power. I've shutdown the rig for the night, all breakers open or off and no shore power. It's 9pm and I'm taking readings on the batteries until I go to bet in a couple hours. I'll check to see if there is any "real" drain on the batteries in the morning. Heck, I even pulled the emergency break pin to ensure the drain increased by the expected -12amps, and it did. I suspected maybe a stuck break or something. I'm suspecting the BlueSky is wonky at this point since taking out the batteries for a day or so. Heck, it's old and it may have lost it's marbles, I know I am. I'll be at the factory next week, for other extensive upgrades, maybe I can get them to upgrade the solar controller along with batteries too, but maybe not Lithium right now. But that's a larger discussion with Jason, his team, and my wallet. Again, I'm winging all this right now. Not sure which way I "need" to go at this moment in the trailer's life, or my own travel plans, Lithium or AGM. I know all the pros and cons with the batteries, all too well. Decissions, decissions! $$ Cha-ching $$ I'm not sure how long it takes for the batteries to "settle down" from being on a charger since the trailer was on shore power. I did notice, with all this heat we have in GA, that the new converter fan was running when I opened the panel box. I don't think I ever noticed the old fan running. Maybe it was dead, but that's not -2.3 amps worth, especially when the converter breaker was off during earlier testing. 13.14v - 9:25pm 13.07v - 9:40pm Thanks for all the great suggestions. It curious to me at this point. Chris

Amazon delivered all the parts yesterday and this morning was able to complete install of timer and relay. Data will be from a Houghton 9.5 BTU, model 2801AC, mounted on a 2018 Casita Spirit Deluxe. Camper always parked under large carport where we formerly had our 5th wheel. Outside temps today were in the mid 80s and humidity was around 52%. Inside temp of Casita was 83 degrees. First test was to run unit on high fan, set to 68 degrees. After about 30 minutes inside temps didn't go any lower than 73 degrees. The unit would cycle compressor off for 3 minutes-consistently- then cycle compressor on. On times of compressor would vary from as high as 3:15 seconds to low as 2:57 seconds. This is so annoying! We were never going to get to set temperature with compressor off half the time! Lowered temperature on unit as low as it would go, 60 degrees. Compressor off time didn't change, consistently off for 3 minutes. Compressor on times were as high as 3:36 seconds and low as 2:52 seconds. Inside temp got down to 72 degrees. At end of compressor on time supply air was always around 54 degrees with humidity around 44%. At end of compressor off time of 3 minutes supply air had risen to about 62 degrees, humidity risen to 48%. Second test was to try new relay and timer. Set unit to low fan (Not Auto) and changed set temperature to 72. Relay and timer working good. Ran this way for one cycle and shutdown power to adjust T2 time from 360 to 180. Long off time of compressor allowing too much temperature rise. By this time temp inside Casita has risen to 79 degrees, humidity at 51%. Third test with T2 set to 180: Compressor came on and stayed on for 4 minutes, supply temp 40 degrees at end of cycle, humidity 44%, Casita at 77 degrees. Fan on 45/off 3 minutes/ fan on 45/compressor starts. cycles on for 2:59 seconds, humidity at 45%, temp at 77. Fan on 45/off 3 minutes/fan on 45/.About 5 seconds into off time compressor comes on for 3 minutes, humidity 44%, temp at 77. Fan on 45/off 3 minutes/fan on 45/off for about 27 seconds then compressor came on. On for 2:50 seconds, humidity 45%, temp 77. End of test. Will do more tomorrow. I don't understand the 3 minute compressor off time when unit operating on high fan-to me this makes no sense and will never get to set temp. Just when the air is feeling really good the compressor shuts off. Challenge: solve the 3 minute compressor off time! Timer/ relay on low fan: This has promise, I ran out of time but tomorrow I will be playing with T1 and T2. The air was not as humid inside camper. Again any thoughts, ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. This unit is MUCH quieter and worth fighting for.

Chris - I'm so sorry but I don't presently have the time to study your drawings - but - the thought occurs to me that there is some truth in what jd1923 has to say about the shunt in the original Oliver setup. As far as I can tell mine (hull #117) will capture everything EXCEPT for the loads placed through the inverter - the 4/0 positive and negative wires go directly from the batteries to the inverter and, thus, bypass the inverter. This really is no problem for me in that I seldom use the inverter and, thus, virtually never have it on. Could this be the source of your -2.3 amps? Bill

OK then - the obvious answer is that you should be on the road. Problem solved!😇 Bill

Thank for the additional information and pictures. I think you’re right, a good first project to build a little confidence.

@jd1923 to correct that display issue Ryan had me simply take the display panel out and unplug the phone jack looking cable. That resets the display. It happens to mine about once a year. More to come. Thanks.

Each year prior to heading out to the Rockies to fish for a couple of months, I treat several changes of cloths with THIS STUFF. It lasts through washings and helps keep the bugs off for about 6 weeks. Have a great trip! Bill

Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions. I completely agree that nothing more can be done until I have the right tools which I will have access to starting on 7/2. Each on the road experience is a good learning opportunity, this one will allow me to add the right tools to my pack-up. I appreciate everyones patience with a newcomer. I will keep you updated and let you know what the problem was and how it was corrected so if anyone else experiences it in the future they will have something to reach back to.

Back in 2018, Anita had called me and wanted to know if I'd show our trailer to a couple from Tupelo. Johnny, his wife Juanita and their daughter came to visit us the next day. After talking with them for a couple of hours, Johnny stated that when he retires he's going to buy an Oliver. Today, six years later ... Tali called me and exclaimed that "...there's a brand new Oliver parked at a house right around the corner from us..." So naturally, I went to investigate. Today was his last day of work. A few days ago while visiting with his daughter (who is now a Nurse Practitioner that lives and works near Atlanta), he realized that about 2 miles from her house was Southland RV in Norcross, GA, one of the new Oliver dealers. They apparently took a ride, went in, fulfilled their six year old dream and are now the proud owners of Hull # 1525. I could not be happier for them. Welcome to the club @josmith68, Johnny and Juanita Smith.

Apparently my installation offends some people’s sense of aesthetics but I had solid reasons for choosing the components that I did. After 2 years and many thousands of miles, I’m still very happy with the results. We continue to have very usable internet access in places where other people struggle to find one bar on their phones. In fact, when we’re at home, I run an Ethernet cable from the Oliver into the house and use the Pepwave router to supplement the marginal DSL service available in our area. (The 5G is much faster, especially on upload speeds than the DSL, I just have to be mindful of the data limits of the two cellular plans that we have). Oh, and no leaks despite NOT using two tubes of dicor… 😉

Ask renogy if you can "daisy chain" the two suitcase solar, so that both run through the onboard controller of the first, closest to the trailer. You need an onboard controller to plug into the zamp solar port. And, you'll need an adapter, as zamp wires "backwards polarity" of typical sae connectors, though it looks the same.

All in all, with 540W solar, Lithionic batteries, and I'll assume a 3000W inverter (?) you have a GREAT solar/battery/inverter system! Just learn how to read state-of-charge (SOC), meaning batteries % full, and plug in your suitcases (occaisonally) when the rooftop solar does not keep SOC high enough for your needs.

A big shout out and huge thank you to the Sea Biscuit Team, and to owners Kristine Hess & David Hess for our hand crafted “ OLLIE HANGAR” custom S/S sign that we won at this years rally. We also have the Sea Biscuit front cargo box which completes our Oliver storage and we love it! Awesome metal craftsmanship made right here in the USA.

Just so happens, SDG is only 45 min from my dad's house in MI. So I have made an appt for the Atmos 4.4 to be installed July 17th. I am hoping to get some good pictures of installation since it will be the first install for them in an Oliver. Things I already know: No condensation pump or lines No need to use wall mounted thermostat due to Plenum, remote and app controls. If you keep the suburban propane heater, they will mount a simple thermostat for it under the street side twin or elsewhere that is convenient. May or may not use the propane heater any more since the Atmos has a 12k heat pump. They can re-use my SoftStartRV from the PII. The Atmos is almost the same footprint. 2.5 in longer and an 1 in taller. Much quieter and more efficient. I will update as things progress. Best, Mike

My post on Facebook😊

I saw this mod a couple month or so ago somewhere on this forum, or maybe an Oliver Facebook post. It is to avoid critters chewing up the propane hoses. Can’t remember who posted it, but we’re planning to do a lot of boondocking so I copied it.

You don’t need to disconnect any cables, or do anything complicated. Your Lithionics batteries have an on/off switch on them (Push button on the top). For storage just draw them down to 50% and turn them off.

I saw some strange behavior with the Lithionics-reported SOC while our trailer was stored indoors in a similar situation, with some trickle from the solar due to interior lights in the garage, etc. The two batteries were "discharging" at very different rates based on the reported SOC. Importantly , the actual voltages were the same. I tried discharging them, then recharging to full to reset the SOC calibration with no luck. Then I tried turning solar off with no change. However, when I pulled the trailer out of the garage and got regular solar running again everything went back to normal. I have no reasonable explanation, but I don't think you can trust the SOC reading too much when it's stored this way. Voltage is a better indicator. @Dave and Kimberly, how do the voltages in this chart for 12v LifePo4 batteries compare to your batteries' voltages and the SOC being reported?

I recently installed GasStop devices on each of my propane tanks. It is designed to perform a ‘minor gas leak test’ by following a simple procedure; very useful feature when a gas smell is detected to determine if you have an actual leak in the lines or supplied systems (appliances). With this feature, one can troubleshoot and perhaps save time, money and more importantly their camping adventure, by not having to shut down and have the system otherwise checked out. However, if an appliance is suspect and a problem not obvious, precautions should be taken and any service performed by trained professionals. As some have stated, the gauge on the pressure regulator is not a gas level indicator, whereas the GasStop does indicate tank ‘pressure’ and useful in knowing when a tank is near empty. The GasStop also has a ‘purge’ feature to prime the system prior to use.

Just saw this tear down comparison between Lithionics GTX315 and Battleborne. My update to Lithionics is complete and we’re going out for a month of ttravel to test.

My wife recently contacted KTT to inquire about purchasing mattresses and the owner of the company told her that they no longer sell custom mattresses for Oliver's.