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Having always been a fan of all things Olight, my bride, navigator, and copilot gifted me this Olight Arkfeld Ultra for Christmas and it is now an integral part of my EDC kit. I like the cool white light, green laser and UV light functions and how slim it is. Caution flag as the brightest CW light @1400 lumens is blinding as is the strobe. The UV light is impressive as well. It has a very strong clip for mounting on the bill of a hat or securing it in your pocket. Looking forward to field use using this during our travels in XPLOR and will update how it performs. So far out of the box this little light is a keeper. What’s your favorite go to EDC flashlight? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8SQYJW3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 A fairly in-depth review.

Mine needed adjustment as well, one time, I found the valve didn't fully close as I could push it down a little. A lot of good ideas listed here....especially black vs grey. The only thing I can add is that my black tank handle offered some resistance (sprung back out a half inch or so) when I pushed the handle in and I found that holding the handle in for about 5 seconds was enough to allow that long cable to offer enough pressure to fully close the valve and the handle did not try to spring back out. We also switched to the Calgon beads/ Pinesol /water solution to clean and lubricate the tanks and blade valves and the handle seems a little smoother to operate. So far so good ") John

As some may recall we've had 2 separate water heater fires in our 2019 EII. In the first case, the water heater was swapped out and the failing unit shipped to Germany for teardown by Truma. The second unit was also defective and had the same behavior after a year on the road. Oliver and the NHTSA have collaborated with Truma on a recall for Truma Water Heaters. Individual Notices to owners are going out in December and January, and I received a letter last week which explains the issue and repair strategy. Attached is the NHTSA Summary Report including the chronology of events. RCLRPT-24V876-7296.PDF The issue has been determined to be inadequate crimping of the burner assembly in manufacturing. This enables the burner tubes to rattle loose and eventually lead to fires in the firebox from tubes that are no longer contained. The manufacturing process has been changed to crimp all the tubes into place and new burner assemblies are being supplied for recall that meet the newer manufacturing process. The recall covers Truma SN less than DLE60C-33096055 (In my case the production patch SN was DLE60C-32123091) Here is the template letter from Oliver to consumers. The specifics of each trailer are unique so you may want to read this generic one to see the Serial Number range for recalled units and compare it to the Truma in your Hull. RCONL-24V876-1556.pdf Oliver will work with you on getting the repair completed. Craig Short Hull 505 - 2019 EII

Very Nice! My EDC since February is the Streamlight 88812. Roughly the same shape, and they both look like little Storm Shadow missles! 😄 I've also carried a Benchmade 470 Emissary almost every day for around 15 years. Love it! Cheers! Geoff

Yes, it is important to have a pressure regulator. Many campgrounds (and towns) have pressures in the 60 psi range (and more in low lying areas) and can have pressure surges as well. This would be my guess on why your PRV is leaking. I use this regulator - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pressure+regulators&crid=13OLMOH9Q8P79&sprefix=pressure+regulators%2Caps%2C83&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_19

Ooooh, flashlights! Steph will tell you this is my impulse buy weak spot. Everything from no-name Amazon lights to some nice Streamlight and Olight units with my fire/SAR gear. When I was working, this little Streamlight Microstream was my EDC. The blue one was special because the default power-on setting was Low, while the other colors defaulted to High. Not sure if that's still true, but it was important because I used it to check pupils and didn't want to blind my patients. Don't have an EDC now but I added a Wuben H1 headlamp and a second Infinity X1 (Costco) to my assortment of lights over the holidays. And I still have my very first Maglite from the 1980s, with the LED upgrade kit from the original incandescent.

BoyToys, gotta love ‘em! My new EDC light, RovyVon!

My son got me this for Christmas and a standard flashlight model for Chris. I spent a good part of today working under a car replacing PS pump and alternator. I would say this wonderful tool cut 20% off my time doing everything. I had it on all day. Wish I had this 40 years ago and ever since! So bright with 3 settings and angle adjustments. Just set it on my hat, nice! https://www.amazon.com/NEBO-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Impact-Resistant-Adjustable/dp/B09F6YKZ14/ref=asc_df_B09F6YKZ14?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588513701&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589117188773&psc=1

Yea, I love Victron stuff too! If not for my Xantrex inverter, I’d have all Victron stuff including the Cerbo with all it’s features to play around with. I just can’t justify replacing the perfectly good stuff I already have. But if I only I knew then what I know now, I’d have never bought the lithium package. It would have been much more fun building my own system. I’m considering the new 50 amp DC-DC charger upgrade too, because of its impressive efficiency. We really taxed the 30 amp charger while running the AC during our recent Joshua Tree boondocking trip, it was sucking a lot of battery juice even with two cooling fans to minimize heat derating. I could'n't watch the Victron App while driving, but the shunt log appeared to indicate that it intermittently dropped out and I believe that the 90’ of #4 wire was a contributing factor. I knew the #4 was a little undersized when I installed it, but I wanted use the smaller Anderson connectors. That was a regretful decision for running the AC, otherwise the charger works great to charge the battery. So I did some wire size calculations for 50 amps . . . and learned conservatism is not your friend for long runs. I used 13 volts as a fair charging value with a general accepted maximum 3% voltage drop. For comparison, I also calculated with Victron’s more conservative values of 12 volts and 2.5% (results in parenthesis.) The lengths are total for both the positive and negative wires: #4 up to 30’ (23’) #2 up to 48’ (37’) #1 up to 60’ (46’) #1/0 up to 76’ (58’) #2/0 up to 96’ (74’) WOW! As you can see, your modified 65’ length calls for size 1/0 wire, and that’s without adding the frame resistance. It’s 2/0 for my 90’ length. The cable size calculations are to safeguard from overheating the wire and to avoid unacceptable voltage drops, the same reason why Oliver disconnects the #10 TV charging circuit for amp hungry lithium systems. But as you pointed out, the charger output can be derated 😂 I agree with @Ronbrink thats its better to run all copper rather than using the frame because it’s a known resistance, and a more reliable connection with less termination losses. If you go with larger cable then it’s a wash as far as resistance goes and an extra 18’ would not be a significant cost increase. But I feel the pain if upsizing the wire, it would more than double the already steep cost. Tough call if trying to save money! I think the Aussies use #4 sized terminals because the majority of Victron chargers are being used in smaller European RV’s, Explorer Vans, and Boats with much shorter cable runs. Our longer rigs are probably the exception and a small part of their sales. If they used larger terminals, then more customers would be scratching their heads wondering why! Snipping strands or necking down to smaller wire at the termination point is a common and accepted practice when using larger wire to limit voltage drop in long runs, and it does not reduce the ampacity rating. More food for thought! Cheers! Geoff

Yep. Calgon softens water by binding with calcium and magnesium ions. This has the effect of reducing hardness impact on our OTT drain systems by preventing hard water minerals from causing buildup on surfaces. Or, it is a similar effect as washing our hair in soft water. Soap goes a lot further and our hair feels slippery as a result. In our RV's it is sort of a laxative for our system. 🙂 GJ

Water pressure will vary by campground. We’ve been to campgrounds that require a water regulator and had bucket full of basic regulators for those who didn’t have one. I carry two, one with a gauge that is adjustable and one that has no gauge and regulates to 50 psi. Once, we had one with a regulator that froze overnight (I didn’t think it would get THAT cold!) and we were happy to have a backup. The basic ones are not expensive. Mike

Absolutely. Water pressure is regulated going in to your home by whatever municipality is providing water service. Or, if like me you are on a private system, installation of a pressure regulator is "imperative" to prevent over pressure. Too high pressure can destroy the pipe and fittings in your home water system. As Dewdev and Topgun have explained, "don't leave home" without a pressure regulator for your Oliver, because too many RV campgrounds have poorly designed or installed water (and electrical) systems. You might also consider a water filter. Many campgrounds have water with high mineral content, which can clog your plumbing system. I have a water filter+pressure regulator assembly that I attach to the City Water inlet before connecting a hose to the campground water supply wherever we park.

Our older hull has OEM built-in pressure regulators and backflow preventers on both City and Fresh Tank lines (see pic), not sure if they still do that on your new hull. They do not show the pressure regulators on the plumbing schematics, just the backflow devices. Because our City Water line is overly restricted, we never use it since the pressure is too low. I do need to get back there, clean the backflows and remove the restrictors to use a true post-mounted pressure regulator instead. We fill the fresh tank regularly and run the water pump for our water. You could try this to see if the drip stops. However, many have pointed at this reason. I doubt it! Your relief vale is rated at 100 PSI which I can see in the picture. It is made for major steam build-up in the system. I doubt campground water pressure is >100 PSI. You likely need a new valve.

Many camping spots have water that is delivered to the spigot at pressures that are higher than you should - safely - use in your Oliver - as @dewdev mentions above. Another thing you could try would be to "open" that pressure regulator - simply lift the grey tab on the top of the regulator. This relives the pressure in the "tank and water lines" inside your Oliver. It also can serve to clear any deposit or debris that may have caused the leak. Then close the grey back to its original position - note that this relief valve tab is most likely "spring loaded". Therefore, it should simply "snap" back into place. Bill

Over the last few months of 2024, Chris and I found this channel on YouTube. The Atik Family (Ailesi) camps in Northern Turkey. I've been to SW Turkey decades ago and I always thought the country of Turkey was desert, like much of Greece. What a winter wonderland! These guys get a 1/2 million hits on most of their camping adventures. This one has 3.4M views! We love their special bond, positive souls, interesting camping gadgets and GREAT food they cook at every campsite! 😂

John, I read all of your info with a dazed brain. Very impressive. My wife and her curly hair was NOT happy washing it in the shower. Will pull out the restrictor and perhaps get a new shower handle.

Our 2022 LE2 has a center-mounted, flip up/down mount under the rear cabinet - so not familiar with the side/post mounts a few owners have mentioned. My concerns about the work (probably) have to do with to attach the new, 32” Tv to the exiting mount is that I no longer have access to a workshop or a lot of my tools. So I’ll be back to the bad old shade tree mechanic days using curbs, parking stones, and sewer covers instead of workbench’s and vises….

Yes Geoff, I took a tax credit when I added a solar/inverter system to our Bigfoot Class-C in 2020. I plan to do the same here. The Oliver or any RV is considered a second home for tax purposes. That's also why I purchased the DC-DC charger, TEMCo 4 awg wire and Anderson SB175 connecters on New Years Eve, so that I would write off all my Oliver solar improvements for the 2024 tax year. This is the way to go! Much better price than the ones I bought.

We’ve been using liquid Calgon and a detergent pod since new. Happy Camper goes in when we’re back from a trip while our trailer is waiting for another adventure. Mike

Craig: Thanks for posting the pic. I once saw a young engineer cycle one of those valves and he was lucky to only get burns on his other hand.. At least yours points towards a wall so if it went off at 100 PSI from a runaway situation it would likely bounce somewhat downwards. Such an installation clearly violates the National Plumbing Code. However, I could not verify that it violates the RVMA requirements. Only a matter of time before someone gets scalded by this obvious safety hazard. Would especially be tragic if it was a steam release in a severe situation. At least they should install a full size 90 degree elbow to point the discharge down. In the meantime, it would be very wise for owners to be very cautious of this reality when working on our hot water heaters. GJ

Also use the pressure regulator on the fresh water fill inlet. Although there are fewer restrictions on the fresh water fill plumbing, it’s still a good practice. This would also apply when you start using the filter. Mossey

I learned something new, thanks! Mossey

That said, I'm sort of thinking that the Calgon beads and Pinesol is a great way to keep the tank clean on a regular basis. But I still recommend using the Thetford lubricant as many of our owners use and cleaning/lubricating the cables every four years or so. So, my inclination is to use both, but not at the same time. Certainly open to the thoughts of our members on this. GJ

I was reminded of my favorite post in this forum by @Dave and Kimberly and @Ronbrink about the Solar Tax Credit. With their information, we amended our 2022 tax return and received a handsome refund check for 30% of the cost of the lithium package. In case you're unaware; I believe you could do the same! Our friends did! The entire system cost is eligible, batteries, solar panels, chargers, inverters, shunt, wire, and all the associated bits and bobs. We didn't have to submit receipts, just have them available. With 30% of the $3400 spent and the DC to DC charger cost, you're looking at some serious change brother! It would pay for that DC to DC charger with properly sized wire, some new tools, and a night on the town with the misses. 🤙 Cheers! Geoff

Sadly I'm about 4,000 miles from our Ollie. I too have never had a problem with my TPV. But that's normal. Millions of them on hot water heaters just sit there doing nothing for DOZENS of years. Sadly the owners don't know that at least annually they need to be cycled. But since the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) requires them to be hard piped to the floor or beyond, when they do cycle it is to the floor. Not you face or into electrical systems as I noted in a different post earlier today. GJ

I have installed the regulator and all seems to be OK. Per your suggestions, will also get a water filter to add to the city line in. Thanks again to everyone for your help. Thanks to both for the information. I will go out and get a regulator today. Appreciate the help! Greetings from LeFleur Bluffs State park!

You're going to need these kind of battery terminals! https://www.ebay.com/itm/235227033422

I imagine our system is low cost vs. the "Lithium Package." This is the second full solar/inverter system I have built into an RV. Love the work and each time the technology and prices have improved. I added the Victron Multiplus II that with Power Assist which is perhaps a better product than an equally powered Xantrex inverter today. Also added 600AH in Epoch batteries. My cost was $3400 plus my labor. When doing so, I moved all the awlward under-streetside-bed breakers, fuses and bus to the rear dinette location. I sold the LA batteries and 2KW Xantrex inverter for a total of $650, net total cost $2,750. Yes, I would not replace a working 3KW Xantrex inverter/charger. Glad I found our old hull, not so old anymore, after 18 months of improvements. It fits us nicely now! 😂

Keep in mind your TV alternator is chassis ground. Run extra #4 cables, both B+ and B- cables from your alternator to your battery where you have your charger cables connected. Have you ever checked charging amperage at idle with a clamp-on amp meter? Would the reading be the same on +tive and -tive sides? Is reading the same before and after the DC-DC charger (should be less after, the Orion XS 50A is advertised at 93% efficiency). Great thread, thanks!

Very nice Geoff. Streamlight crafts a fine torch. I am big fan of BenchMade knives. My EDC is the Adamas “auto” folder. This has been an excellent EDC knife.

Do not do the above scale clearing technique with the water being hot. Per the picture, the hot water will blast out and likely cause you and possibly others extreme burns. I strongly recommend you contact OTT as this is a code violation and should be fixed immediately. GJ

The “new Jason” at Oliver Service told me, it is a quick in and out straight forward repair for the Truma. We look forward to getting it buttoned up. 👍🏻 Onward! 🇺🇸

Thanks Sherry, you found a great link to all the NFS “Motor Vehicle Use Maps.” I’ve had the Prescott and Kaibab NF maps for awhile, but will now download the rest and create a folder for them. What I wanted, but may not be available, is the pretty Arizona map above, downloadable via Avenza maps. The Avenza app is great because it has all the Federal maps for free and it puts your GPS location as a blue dot on the map while traveling. You can also save and name visited locations. I have 100s of maps downloaded on my phone which I save prior to traveling, to view along our route.

Thanks to both for the information. I will go out and get a regulator today. Appreciate the help! Greetings from LeFleur Bluffs State park!

First Questions: 1. Are you hooked up to City Water? 2. Are you using a device to keep the incomoing water pressure in the Ollie below 40 psi?

Episode 14:

Thanks Geoff, yes I'm certainly going to use the frame at the rear, so will only need 2 ft of ground cable there. I will add additional frame grounds to both truck batteries and perhaps to the alternator frame. This will add another 2 ft here and there. I went with TEMCo direct on Amazon, upped my number to 65 FT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIB6F86?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Not sure on the resistance or voltage drop of a 10x4" steel double C-beam truck frame, but one thing is certain, it will not overheat when amped up! It is important to grind the paint off the frame at every ground connection. I love mechanic work, almost more than camping trips! Currently rebuilding the PS pump (was leaking) on my 1992 Lexus SC400 and installing new Tien struts on all 4s I got myself for Christmas! I went with the Orion XS 50A for its efficiency, smaller unit, less the 3LB heat sink, etc. This is quoted from the Victron datasheet: "The charge current is adjustable with a minimum stepsize of 0.1 A. via VictronConnect." I went with 4 AWG, not wanting to spend more and the Victron Orion XS 50 terminal takes 4 AWG max (reason)? If there is an issue at 50A, I will merely set it down to 30A or somewhere between. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-XS-12-12-50A-DC-DC-battery-charger-EN.pdf Our Oliver is now 90% Victron (less the legacy Blue Sky SC). Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger, SmartSolar MPPT 30A for the Renogy 400W Suitcase, now the Orion XS 50A, SmartShunt, SmartDongle, VE.Bus and proud to say I don't need a screen mounted to the interior of the Oliver. Love the VictronConnect App! I should be able to read DC-DC charge voltage while towing. I will post a new thread on my install, though it will likely be a couple months out when I get to it!

I believe that a download PDF version of this map is available HERE Bill

We have been using these quick dry micro fiber beach and shower towels for a few years. Simply laying the towels over our camp chairs in the sun or a light breeze, they dry out fast. https://www.amazon.com/4Monster-Camping-Absorbent-Microfiber-Backpack/dp/B07WJKZDTZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=36GBWCVUZJGKX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dFe_c20sdlYzd-zyAsq_funKLO06H91apK9OV9Uo-B7K1TMNfYxCxmi5cCdNK4IrLIQRvTpSDp6OaqhWtkb0ZBZT4wgdUppjio_L8576pU4U1gPhIuAOCgZF91aJ_QJM42KtEGegGWH53DHZ99w6oFy4Fj178JhJCTjhnvv-1u8fB8ItzaZjKrY1Q2MTLmj7_jDgOlgEZQ_YgZstv1PeJieqA8lAJ4mhL3xZ9IP8HITAiBlvV0ZrD69UPC6Rf9JZOA9vz21rNOpNOUhy6bVSP5JIwRiuA8jsc0R1wVaTLyVr4OuPxSIo-POjdFFAni-Pboun0cjE227CyA-EXBVHI8oGdfRViE0peDPoSTYM3kAH5cmGNqro2eEAf-0O1FukZUKXVAgjhq50SuasdLtwxhRflhfIr983VMsXroufMJJ9VBRKFdKdyGwBGbS5-bxi.gaUk0TUySiVC8Pc-2DEnvwQcjauvHndLZHUItmP3P-8&dib_tag=se&keywords=camping%2Btowels%2Bfast%2Bdrying%2Blightweight&qid=1735633114&sprefix=Camping%2Btowels%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-7&th=

Planning on adding the Victron Orion 50A DC-DC charger in the new year. The Victron Amazon store just lowered price on these: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion XS Smart DC to DC Battery Charger 12/12 50A (700W) - IP65 Dust & Waterproof - Fully Configurable - Remote Management Possible - Advanced Battery Protection : Electronics I will go with TEMCo 4 AWG cable. I measured distance from battery to rear bumper at 21 ft (long bed TV), then from hitch to rear dinette to my main busses another 15 ft, adding 10% for 40 ft total one-way. Wondering what Geooff, or @MAX Burner, @Ronbrinkand others did with the ground wire at the TV? It doesn't seem necessary to run the B- cable all the way up to the batteries. Could it not be grounded at the rear frame of the TV? The truck batteries are also grounded to the frame. This saves 18 ft of cable, so I'm planning on 60 ft total. Wire got more expensive in the last year! BTW, I did upgrade to a Nations 180A HD alternator last summer which is about 50A higher than the OEM alternator.