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For anyone thinking about purchasing one of Hughes Autoformer units, you my want to wait a little longer. I had a conversation with a Hughes representative a couple of days ago and he informed me that a new Autoformer will be released within 1-3 months called the "Watchdog Power Center". It will have Bluetooth and WIFI connectivity and will be slightly larger than the current power boosting units are. If you already have an internally mounted Autoformer you will need to install a new mounting bracket for the Power Center.

Love reading this Forum and seeing how smart guys like you are. Thanks for doing this.

By the way, for a person who goes by the nickname Snackchaser, your cabinets are curiously devoid of snacks....

Agreed, having lived a few years in no see um South Georgia/North Florida coast we found it’s just best to keep the windows closed and the AC on. We called those pests a flying set of teeth. 😂

I updated my batteries with assistance of a friend who does solar installs for a living. This is a bit different than most of the installs I have seen here in that we used two 400 AH EG4 rackmount batteries. After removing the rackmount handles from the batteries and the battery tray from the Oliver they fit perfectly. There was a bolt in the bottom of the battery cabinet that was an issue. We put in 1 inch square aluminum rods on the floor of the cabinet to raise the batteries above the bolt head. We also replaced the Xamp solar charger with a Victron solar charger 100/30, added Victron lynx shunt, Victron distributor, and Victron cerbo with a touch screen (7" model). This fit perfectly in the hole left by the removal of the Xamp solar charger. To get the cables from the cerbo to the touch screen I ordered an extra HDMI extension cable and USB cable (approx. 15'). I ran the cables to the back of the camper in the tray behind the cabinet and then down the wall in the back, under the basement, and back up under the street side bed. Trying to pu the wire down next to the pantry would not work. It was too tight. I believe Victron is planning on replacing the HDMI cable with the small USB connections this spring. Didn't help me, but maybe it would help you. In addition we added a solar disconnect which you can see below. In the pictures below. These batteries can be powered off and the breaker thrown to disconnect. They also come with automatic fire suppressants, two per battery. Cost was $1200 per battery (400 AH, each). This was the first stage of the upgrade. At some point I may replace the Xantrex 2000 inverter, but for now it works well for us. Unfortunately the Xantrex and Victron do not talk to each other. That is why you don't see information on the touch screen about the AC loads and AC input. We have taken it on a couple of trips now and we do not come close to making a dent in the batteries. I added an extra battery in case we need to replace our 3-way fridge in the near future. So far it is doing well. I replaced a power board on it a while back, but since then no issues. Parts are harder to come by now though.

I actually asked Artek these same questions and was told that a switch is not needed. Additionally, they said connecting and disconnecting should be done (as a good practice) when the engine is off and no charge current coming from alternator.

Yes, the snacks are missing!!! Wifey has been notified and I can neither confirm or deny any involvement in their disappearance!

I always understood this in Residential and Commercial AC power panels, but did not realize this in DC circuits until recently. There are no breakers in an automobile or truck, where is my experience. When I relocated ALL the breakers and fuses from under the streetside bed to the rear dinette seat, this became obvious from the terminal markings on all DC breakers. OTT had wired the 40A breaker in our hull, powering the rear positive bus (leveler jacks and more attached to this bus) in the wrong direction. After all of your excellent feedback, I decided to go with MRFB fuses on both sides vs. ny sort of DC breaker> Blue Seas is the gold standard! However, their fuse today are made in Mexico. I found this company, made in South Bend IN, USA with a 4.7 Amazon rating (not easy to achieve) NP, I have a good 4" above the starter batteries in my old Dodge! Also have nothing but room above the positive bus that connects all solar chargers, etc.

About 8 the next morning for us but close enough.

Thank you. I only have two batteries, 400AH each for a total of 800AH., So one on top of the other.

My camper has a 3000 Watt Inverter and the Lithium Pro Package. Right after a camping trip last November I noticed my batteries were not charging on shore power at home. I discussed the issue with Oliver and they recommended I take it to a shop and have the surge protector examined. Rather than take it to a local dealer. I setup an appointment at Hohenwald (it's only a 5-hour drive for me). Yesterday I went to Oliver and they worked on the issue. At first Oliver thought it was the inverter which they replaced. However, this did not fix the issue. They then re-checked the surge protector and found the wire from the EMS to the breaker panel burnt as well as a burnt connector. They put my old inverter back in and replaced the surge protector and the batteries now charge. The work was done quickly, professionally and I was charged for only what was actually needed. While it was there I had them fix a couple of other small issues and grease my fittings. This is my second trip to Hohenwald for work on the camper since it bought it new. I am very happy that we can still go to Oliver for work and really appreciate that we can set an appointment and reasonably expect the work to be done timely, and well. It was nice to be able to drive up Sunday, drop off the trailer Monday morning and then drive back home Monday night with the trailer.

True. . . but they were terribly misleading because the circuit is energized directly from the battery, regardless if the alternator is charging or not. Think of it like a jumper cable connected to the battery, if you were to brush the red cable against any grounded surface of the vehicle then you're going to have big sparks like a welder . . . before any thermal fuse will blow. A circuit fused at 60 amps has significant potential and I think it would be somewhat negligent not to have a quick and easy means to disconnect it, as is the law in other applications. It’s straight off the battery, always energized, running the length of the vehicle, with a connector exposed on the rear bumper. Most mechanics wouldn’t have any idea what it is, and may not take precautions to avoid it. I love @Tom and Doreen idea of using a high amperage switch instead of a breaker. The switch is more obvious and it would do a better job at alerting someone of a high potential than might need to be shut-off. I’m keenly aware that I’m too forgetful, and I may not always be around. Cheers! Geoff

Thanks to everyone for the good suggestions. Much appreciated!

Mike, nice set up. Anita and I will be at the Ollie Rally in April. Are you going? At some point will go from AGM to Lithium. Would like to see your set up. Hull 292 here.

Same. But the things I did when I was young don't like me as much as they used to.

We did this to our Casita and Oliver...quite an improvement but some of the tinyest,unidentified critters still manage to infiltrate. We are happy we did this modification and do recommend it! :) Best of luck, John

That's a really clean installation, great work! One word of caution though is that manual disconnecting / connecting with an active load applied can cause contact pitting and heating of the contacts in breakers of this type. A heavy duty marine spec. switch with larger contact areas would also fit the bill since the circuit breaker is redundant in this application.

@jd1923 There are a number of inaccurate statements in your post above. Specifically, please refer to any number of prior posts here on the Forum regarding the issues and whole story (to include Oliver's involvement ((or lack thereof))) relative to the fresh water tank issue. Hopefully a review of the entire situation will help with your (and/or anyone's) concerns in this regard. March 13, 2018 October 26, 2017 May 5, 2024 Note your participation in this May 5th, 2024 thread. With regards to the "cutouts". I believe that it was sometime in 2018 when Oliver "standardized" their wiring for all Oliver Travel Trailers. Prior to that - for both your Oliver and my Oliver a certified electrical tech was hired to do the wiring on each trailer. Since there were more than one tech (I've been told that there were as many as three at any given time) and since it is doubtful any of these tech had specific RV experience, the wiring and connected "cutouts" were dramatically different from one trailer to the next. Yes, perhaps Oliver should have had a QC person go back and check each tech's work. But, it is fairly obvious that Oliver didn't believe this was necessary given that the tech's were "certified". Once the "cutouts" were "hidden" by cover plates the only way they could be seen would be to take things apart - as you and many of us have done. Same thing (I believe) applies to the circuit breaker issue you mention. While not "perfect" my Oliver continues to serve me extremely well after ten years. If I had not purchased an Oliver I would be on my second or third RV by now and still dealing with trying to make those things into an Oliver. Yes, it is frustrating to deal with someone's carelessness and/or lack of proper technique/skill but it is a fact of life and Oliver through its own quality control system tends to limit most issues of this nature. Finally, From my experience, Oliver has always bent over backwards in helping many owners correct any issues with the trailer. And this extends well beyond what the stated warranty period may reflect. Bill

I used the following that were recommended by Artek. 1. Blue Seas MRBF Terminal Fuse Block and a MRBF 60 amp Fuse. 2. Blue Seas Series 187 Surface Mount Thermal Circuit Breaker 60 amp. I have attached photos.

Well Stated👍

We are all going down the road towing an earthquake through a hurricane. No screw ever gets tighter with vibration, it always loosens. I go completely through our Hull #50 at least once a year and check all bolts and screws for tightness, especially the electrical connections. I’ve preached this for several years on multiple platforms. You can’t blame a manufacturer for a loose screw on a a product that you’ve used successfully for years. The impetus is on us to maintain the product through regular inspections and maintenance.

That’s us, usually done with evening meal by 5 and don’t eat again until 10ish the next morning.

Jason, that’s the healthy way to be! Wish I could do the same. Lucky for me when it’s not after 9 PM. I used to be a huge midnight snack guy in my younger years.

Nice job! I was lazy and found some battery operated stick on LED lights that are motion sensitive. The seem to work great and you just stick them on for us lazy folks. We put one in the pantry, the closet and the basement next to the access between the beds. I also stuck one that you touch to turn on above the main switch panel. I always hated at night I cant see the black witches without a flash light. Now I just touch the light and it comes on so I can see the switches. So far it's been 2 seasons without needing new batteries. An inexpensive solution that takes no time to or skill to install, just peal and stick. Bill

Treveling to Albuquerque, NM from New England in the middle May 2025. I am considering staying at Love's Travel Stops. One night at Love's Travel Stop in Hubbard, OH. A second night at Love's Travel Stop in St. Louis, MO. A Third night at Love's Travel Stop in Oklahoma City, OK We would like to get gas there and use the showers and bathrooms at those locations. Has anyone stayed at these location and is this a ok plan or are there other suggestions? Thanks

So, you also installed the MP2? Have an installation post or pictures. I knew of 3 prior to our installation but your name is new to me. Thanks. Like Steve wrote, no venting issues. I installed our MP@ under the streetside bed, so no room under there. Without detail measurements, If I was to desire more than 600AH in the battery bay, I would look under the pantry!

Nice install. I built up the floor with a 1/4 inch rubber mat to get ride of the bolt problem.

Lithium batteries do not have the risk of venting hydrogen gas like the LA batteries. They can safely be mounted anywhere and in any orientation.

Lithium packages were not available when we ordered our 2020 Oliver. The AGMs have been serving us well! 😊

Thank you. My AGMs were still doing pretty well, but we were up in Canada this summer for five weeks and we were having to work hard at not pushing them too hard and using voltage to guess at the state of charge was rather annoying. I decided to go ahead and replace the batteries and enjoy the upgrade myself instead of waiting until they had to be replaced.

This is the advertised special: "Charge your lithium batters from your tow vehicle. *Camper system only. Truck must be outfitted by automotive shop for system to fully operate. Limited Supply. Sale Price: $1,350.00" I zoomed in on the picture and can just see the '30' for the 30A on the charger. These go for $204 on Amazon: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart DC to DC Charger (Bluetooth) - 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt - Battery Charger for Dual Battery Systems - Non-Isolated : Automotive OTT will likely add a Bussman breaker (about $40, not shown in the picture). Say $100 for 4 AWG cable and parts (trailer side only), so they are charging about $1000 for labor! You would still have to wire the TV to connect at the hitch. You really want this charger instead, for greater charge rate and less heat (watch the video in the link supplied above): Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion XS Smart DC to DC Charger 12/12 50A (700W) - Advanced Battery Protection : Electronics There are a couple authorized sellers on eBay that accept $300 offers on this same charger for greater savings. If I could not do this myself for <$500 in parts, I would purchase the components and get a trusted local installer or truck service company to install both sides at the same time. There are so many great examples here in mod postings from @Snackchaser, @Ronbrink, @MAX Burner, @rideadeuce, demonstrating this installation. Don't forget an alternator upgrade! (also not included)

I don't carry a crock pot, nor an insta pot, since we rarely have hookups, but I do love campfire cooking. Our freezer in the truckfridge is very tiny, so my method of flat packing really helps. I do the same with burger patties. Make the patties, wax paper under and above, spray one side and season. Vacpac, flat freeze. Accompaniment for any red meat, or even pork chops, is often campfire roasted onion. Take as little off the onion as possible, top and bottom, with a sharp knife. Score lightly and remove the husk and thin first layer. Set the onion on its now flat bottom, on the cutting board, create 6 or 8 segments, not quite through. Open up just a bit, add butter or olive oil in the center. Add a bit of balsamic vinegar, if you have it. Wrap twice with foil, tightly. Cook in the early coals, tucked into the side of the fire, as you prepare everything else. It's done when you've turned it a few times, and it's soft. (Using long tongs, obviously. ) if it's done early, you can always set it on a hot rock while everything else cooks. Depending on the type of wood, and heat of the coals, 20 to 35 minutes. I buy whole pork tenderloins at Costco when on sale, and cut my own boneless chops. Marinade and freeze, flat pack. (Cilantro lime and Italian dressing are favorites for pork.) They continue to marinade as they thaw. Vac packed, they never leak.