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I completed our new Nova Kool R5810 AC/DC refrigerator installation before our trip to the 2025 OTTO's Rally and the 3 week shakedown was everything we hoped for! I want to thank all of the early adopters, Try2Relax, MountainOliver, Geronimo John, Ty J and rideadeuce, who preceded my installation and shared there experiences. I have attached a few pictures that are similar to those that have already been posted. I would also like to shout out to David & Kristine Hess, Cooper Jenkins and the rest of the folks at Sea Biscuit Metal Designs for their help and creation of the upper and lower vents for my refrigerator installation. If you need something custom made from metal, they are my goto team! Mossey

I drove an EV once. Looked like the attached picture. Batteries were good for a while, no real way to tell how much “gas” was in the tank. Would leave me stranded hauling my own clubs. Then the batteries started losing their maximum capacity. Once they were down to about 50%, I went to replace the batteries, found out the cost and sold it for a gas powered one which lasted a long time and never left me stranded. I can even keep a gas can on board to extend my journey. I once saw a Tesla Cybertruck sitting on the side of the road hooked up to a gas generator. I expected a bunch of solar panels, but I guess gas was faster and more reliable.

Very nice with the vents in the fridge basically matching those in the microwave. Like the additional insulation in the compartment too. Nice job! Bill

That is correct. Two mods made the Houghton a great unit. One to install a good quality ACR rated relay. The other to abandon the Houghton thermistor in place and plug in a longer cabled one; then run the sensor bulb to a protect location. The Relay Mod was not hard once one figures out all the wiring AND finds specific colored stranded copper wire to do so. The Thermistor Replacement mod was super easy and super hard. On the unit side, it is pull out the plug and plug in a new longer tailed one. The hard was figuring out how to run the cable to a protected location in a manner that it is not a visual impairment (I.E. UGLY.). If an owner desires documentation for these mods kindly PM me. Do you have more info on the mod for the Truma? Did they resolve the short cycling issue as well? One of these days the A/C MFG's will figure out that any premium unit must have the below attributes (In order of priority). Compressor shut down when reaching set temperature. Inverter Compressor like Danfos makes (Long life, extremely efficient, and super quiet. Also eliminates need for soft start because it already is!) Remote Thermistor/T-stat Internal Drain System Nationwide Service Agreements Reasonably price The first one that does will dominate the market! GJ

I recall you rectifying the issue with your Houghton by installing a relay, correct? Continuous fan run causing cabin humidity to rise seems to be a universal issue, even with the Truma. I replaced my DPll with a Dreiha Atmos 4.4 and use the Dry Mode when humidity begins to spike. Problem being, the cabin gets very cold if kept in that mode for too long and humidity level will eventually start to creep up again and thus, not a panacea. However, I recently learned of a viable solution with the Atmos to control the fan when the compressor shuts off, thereby significantly reducing said humidity concerns within. More importantly, only a minor alteration of the unit and no void of warranty. I look forward to reporting my findings.

I wonder, though. Wouldn’t true boondocking, with regard to the EV lifestyle of “lets save the planet”, not use gas of any kind? In this regard, the trailer would need to be completely electric. No refined gas of any type, including propane. No generator to recharge the batteries and in the extreme case, no reliance on the electric power grid that more than likely uses some sort of coal/ nuclear power generation even though a percentage of it is solar and/or wind generation. We could go further and adopt the planet saving lifestyle of plastic elimination, since plastic pollution and microplastics are arguably more harmful to us and the environment than the carbon emissions that are driving the EV market. However, EVs wouldn’t work without plastics, neither would our electronics, solar and wind power, water delivery or modern medicine. Even the clothes we wear include some kind of plastic and are produced in factories overseas with a horrible carbon footprint. Then we have the ocean transportation from those countries that use massive amounts of heavy crude. With planet saving practices in mind, perhaps the Amish lifestyle is preferable but even they have adopted modern methods in their farming and business practices to stay relevant. But, wait. Don’t they live in wooden houses? We can’t do that either, because that would require us to cut down multiple trees, and the axe has a metal blade, made using a smelting process and formed with heat using coal. We are now living pre industrial AND pre bronze. In fact, true “save the planet boondocking” would be living in a cave, drinking unpurified lake water, wearing animal skins and whacking the ground with rocks. Welcome to the stone age. This is my interpretation of EVs and boondocking as a whole. Yes, I like the complexity of using batteries and the sun for power generation, but I don’t believe for a second that I am saving the planet doing this. I enjoy this lifestyle because it is quiet, until I start up my deleted Cummins and scare bambi out of the woods.

Wow, just wow...

No f’n way. Texas has pride in country, pride in their great state. The only thing Texas coulda done better was to stay the Lone Star state! If they had, we would have stayed there, for sure, but since the last few months of 2025, Made in America is getting great again…

Yes for sure. Our 2001 first twin valve Cummins, no DEF, no BS, can idle all winter!

Jason, in your beautiful East Texas, buy a couple!

Lots of good people on here.

Looks like that will be our route, too. I’m glad @Steve Morris walked the road ahead of us. ☺️

Yes. They add a bit of clearance because the hitch is 2 inches. If both the receiver and hitch were 2 inches with no variance, you would have difficulty getting the hetch in place. Kind of like you are having now.

Perhaps now would be a great time for readers/posters to this thread (and other threads) to re-read the Forum Guidelines. I believe that it was Bugeyedriver that last referred everyone to these Guidelines back in 2024 with THIS POST. Bill

I have one of these faucet in the bathroom. I'm trying to replace the hose to a longer one but I am not sure what kind of fitting it is. Any ideas?

PS: Beautiful install Mossemi!

I screened both of mine and they seem to work just fine after a year of use.

Mike, Beautiful installation. I have been wondering what I would do if our 10 year old Dometic three way quits, your installation is a good one. Went back looking over the information shared by Try2Relax, MountainOliver, Geronimo John, Ty J and rideadeuce, really appreciate their post, too. Thanks for posting!

Not viable for those of us who want to run A/C via inverter.

Or just buy the portable one that can plug in and do the same thing https://softstartup.com/?_gl=1*me5a2h*_gcl_au*NDczNzU4ODMyLjE3NDc1ODg5MTI.*_ga*ODIzMjQ1NzcwLjE3NDc1ODg5MTI.*_ga_9SVFCNK3XB*czE3NDc1ODg5MTIkbzEkZzEkdDE3NDc1ODg5MTIkajYwJGwwJGgwJGRPT2gwS2pmM2tBYTRGSmVEakVkVm9hVnFka1pvZzc0Y2hn

Thanks @John and Debbie for bringing this to my attention. We have the Dometic vs. Norcold, but when I noticed the $40 for the screen, I thought I could easily fab one. I had purchased this 6" roll of metal screening from True Value years ago to bug/rodent-proof our home, so this time there was zero additional cost. Turns out 6" was just enough to cover with a 3/4" bend on three sides. It takes a bit of measuring cutting and bending to get it right. Be careful, the screen will draw blood. To attach the screen to the cover I used 2 rivets on each side. When done I had a small hole on each side so cut a small square of foam to fill in these gaps. I think it turned out well, in fact these covers used to be lose even though I purchased new OEM plastic mount screws. With the screens on it took a little push to get into the recess but it's in there tight, no more wiggle! Second pic shows the tools required and then vent cover installed. If you zoom into the second picture you can just see the rivets on the end and zoom in on the last picture and you can see the screening inside the vent cover.

I have hopefully found a work around for both the fan control and thermistor issues, specific to the Atmos. Pending implementation measures and findings may be of interest to anyone considering this replacement unit.

You can’t beat 5 years of data. Thanks.

Never had one of these fans fall in 5 years of use, nor any issues with the Velcro adherence on the wall or fan base. Use quality Velcro on a clean surface for best results. I actually have to give them a bit of tug when removing, so can’t imagine one just loosing grip and falling. That said, if left up when bouncing down the road then Newton’s Law likely will factor in!

Thanks for the reminder that diesels rock when it comes to idle abilities! However, not practical from this gasser’s standpoint, at least when sitting idle for extended periods just to fully charge and no other purpose. Good point on a/c consumption being offset by power input from a DC-DC, idling or underway! I oftentimes let my COW cool down before a scheduled stop, especially when traveling in extreme heat conditions. Before LFPs my original Renogy 20A charger did justice to the four 6V Trojans, but I had to break out the generator for added comfort during stops. I quickly learned once the switch was made to lithiums and changes to run the a/c on batts that a larger charger was needed and thus, a 40A was installed. And yes, upgrading to the Atmos made things even more better!

Is this what you are talking about?

Well done Mike! I can’t imagine how much work and effort this mod took. Hats off!! 🫡

Still a great state tolive in though mountains and lots of snow would make it better. Agreed. I just wish there would be a way to keep it going after these four years.

We moved to Texas in 2006 for work, lived there 9 years. No better state of the Union than the Great state of Texas to work, period!

The way trucks are meant to be.

Very good points. This is why I asked y'all on the forums!

The flip side to this approach is 1) assuming the aluminum reciever is sturdy enough as it looks like it was designed for additional interior pieces. 2) grinding the bike rack hitch to fit will make it useful only for your current Oliver and will be way too loose in a standard hitch receiver. If you were to grind down the hitch to fit and it later broke the aluminum receiver, a replacement receiver would be too big requiring you to get a new hitch from 1up. There are positives and negatives to both routes.

But could be in a pinch. I get 40A when idling, and with a diesel you can idle long, as long as you’d stand hearing the engine. Under idle, we can run A/C at 60% consumption, and if I had the wonderful Atmos unit Ron has it would be closer to 40%!

Im surprised Truma sent you one directly. I assumed they only ship them to Truma authorized installers.

Yes, boondocking means no electricity unless you bring it with you. Generators aren't campsite cool any more, and more so for EV owners. Many of us use solar and the alternators on our combustion engines to charge the house batteries. We enjoy time at the campsite, and it's hard enough to find a good one, without worrying about where to charge in-between. EVs are great for commuting and for trades people who drive 100-200 miles on the job and come home each night. They are not practical for travel, let alone towing a trailer for weeks at a time. OK, I'm done having fun and will stop, so that we stop insulting one another. I wish you the best with your new Sierra and Oliver when the time comes for you.

".. a true 2 inch receiver is 2 1/16 inches" - that's interesting!!!

A different Sirocco fan mounting option. Mossey

As expressed by others, it’s really a matter if choice. Since I don’t have solar, the DC-DC allows for charging while underway. Since upgrading to LFPs and the ability to run the air conditioner on the battery bank, it was important to me to be able to maintain adequate SOC following travel breaks during meals, rests and such while drawing down the batteries for this added comfort. Granted, sitting idle just to charge a battery bank is not practical, and disconnecting the TVs charging wire in the seven pin connector is best since the alternator’s charging profile is not suitable for lithiums.

Yep, no Boondocking in store for @DanielBoondock! 🤣 Get a Tesla Model S to scratch your EV itch. Then after all the nonsense, being a GM guy, get the GMC Sierra Denali with the 6.6L Duramax Turbo Diesel and 10-speed Allison. 😂 When I win to the Lotto, I'll get one too (though I'd have to buy my first lotto ticket)! Daniel has not yet responded to the dozen EV TV criticisms posted in this thread and the first one he started. So Daniel, especially since you've updated your forum signature, I'm asking and I'm not alone. I'm not interested in performance specs, blah-blah-blah, instead wondering how you believe you can charge while traveling across the country, even boondocking, going anywhere you want without the chronic worry of the next charge station. Those of us with diesel TVs can drive 300 miles one-way up a dead-end road, boondocking along the way, we have enough fuel to return. You cannot make that claim with any EV. Likely your one-way trip towing will be limited to 100, 120 miles or so. And when you run out of power on some stretch of highway, you cannot merely grab a gas can and hitchhike down the road or walk to a local farm where there's always some diesel to borrow. You'd need a tow. Most Oliver owners worry enough about SOC% on their house batteries. We carry enough Ah, fresh water and fuel to camp 10 days off-grid.

Here’s my adaptation in mounting the two Sirocco ll fans back in 2020 shortly after our OLEll purchase. By chance, my setup has worked really well, thus far! Rather than a permanent mount and hardwiring, I used Velcro for attachment and installed ports in the fan base for a detachable power cable. The fans and cables are stowed in the attic when not in use and can be deployed, as needed. The two primary locations are above each bed and an alternate in the galley to direct air flow toward the dinette. I like that the fans are multi-directional both forward and downward facing. The white Velcro is not very noticeable at the three attachment points and excess cable is simply wrapped around the base for a clean appearance.

With my juvenile mindset, it was really difficult not to say something inappropriate here. But I refrained. 😁

That would be my Chris too! I’m not into fans, so for me just one fan is needed on her side. Thanks

Reading through all the entire posts, it is quite evident that @DanielBoondock has really done a lot of research about which RV fits his needs. (It is what us engineers do). I think, Daniel, that you need to do similiar research on your tow vehicle as the EV's will have a lot less mileage range then advertised when towing the Ollie. You may not have the mileage range you need for your camping adventures. You will find some helpful information on this web site about EV towing an Ollie. I just wanted to draw your attention to this matter.

There has been several other post about humidity issues when camping with Olivers. Normally when we camp in temperatures cold enough to freeze the basement plumbing when using a portable heater, it's only for a couple of days and we don't even de-winterize Ollie making use of the campground's showers. When camping in the South East in the winter, sometimes we have humid weather.

In the winter when heating with a portable heater we use 99% of the time, we find condensation between the hull in the rear section (in our experience), if a de-humidifier is not used. We use a small de-humidifier in the rear upper storage "Oliver Sign" area and another one on the kitchen stove top area to resolve this. Checked other areas between the hulls and did not find condensation present.

Note the "scupper holes" on the bottom of the outside hull. These are meant to draw any moisture that is trapped between the two hulls to the outside and as with a boat this effect gets greater the faster you travel down the road. However, unless you vent the interior (well) you will likely encounter situations where the interior of the Ollie can get humid. There are many ways to combat this since it is caused by the inability of the basic fiberglass to "breath". Bill

My wife and I were lounging in our camper one night when a white Tesla backed into the lot next to us. A middle aged dude with a huge belly got out and started walking around talking to his phone which he kept pointed at himself. He mounted it on a tripod and removed this horrendous looking world war something tent out of his frunk. After 30 minutes of huffing, puffing, resting and more puffing, he got it set up. He then started cooking this amazing smelling food which he proceeded to eat in front of his phone talking animatedly between bites. I swear the dude looked like Alfred Hitchcock sporting a bright Hawaiian style shirt, some shorts stolen from Al Borland and knee high socks. I would have expected deck shoes or penny loafers but he preferred purple Crocs. His car made noises and flashed like a Christmas tree and other than the awesome food smells, he was completely annoying. I don't know why I'm telling this story. All this talk about EVs and camping I guess.

An interesting and entertaining opinionated thread. 😄

Well unfortunately that is what happens, compressor will start to cycle before reaching set temperature so to keep compressor on and humidity low we set temp to 60 until reaching about 72 degrees in camper.

Yes, thanks! We did get the electric antifreeze kit. I will check with Truma on the vent plug. I sent an email to Jason Essary asking if adding a screen will void the Truma warranty. I will post up his reply.