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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2025 in Posts

  1. Last night was our 100th night in our 2023 Oliver Legacy Elite II “Curiosity”! While not a big deal for a lot of campers, it is a milestone for us. Thank you Oliver Travel Trailers for building us a wonderful home away from home!
    3 points
  2. I liked when Steve started this thread! As of Sunday, which was also Father's Day, we hit the our 100th overnight in our Oliver. We just passed the 2 year mark in our ownership, and although we only did one 2-night trip in our first 7 months, we're catching up now! By the time we get home on July 3rd, it will be 118 nights over the last 18 months. That's a better rate than I had expected, but a lot of short trips will add up! Starting to feel we're getting our monies worth too. The Oliver, the tow vehicle and the tens of thousands of upgrades on each! 🤣 She also had a bath for our special day!
    3 points
  3. John, I would just go with hand tightening, but… What would help is to purchase new split lock washers, nuts too if you like, correct size and good quality from a local hardware store (not Amazon). The hardware parts on these breakers are cheap and weak. The stronger spring steel in good washers should hold tight. You can torque, even over-torque the cheap hardware and they will still loosen up. Give my idea a try! 😂
    2 points
  4. Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.
    2 points
  5. Well, you're definitely going to need a inch pounds torque wrench, and you can probably get the torque specs off the breaker installation or spec sheet.
    2 points
  6. I understand that the word "hookups" can have more than one meaning. 😵‍💫
    2 points
  7. Maybe a sticker that can be put somewhere on the trailer? Sort of like the map of states overnighted in. Or a patch that could go on your Oliver hat? I’ve kept track of total nights, but would have to go back and look at places to see how many were boondocking.
    2 points
  8. I like it, Art. Might I suggest the coveted patch series for Ollie owners would be the “Boondock Centurian” patch celebrating 100, 200, 500 nights spent without hookups?
    2 points
  9. Jeff & Cindy, we're on one of those "meandering trips" right now, so we certainly understand. One thing is for sure, 5 weeks is not nearly enough time to leave AZ, see family in MN and have much time for multi-day stays in between! I like how Mike said it: I much prefer short drives each day and taking each day as it comes. Then as Mike wrote, staying a couple nights to "rest up" which we tend to do when we find a spot we like! I thought we would have some 3-day stays on the way back. That's not going to happen. We have 2860 miles so far and a good 1600 miles to get back home. We setup camp as needed on a daily basis. On one-nighters I prefer to stay hitched and even on some 2-night stays if we are just going the rest up and enjoy the campsite. Sometimes I'll decouple to get the tongue up high enough to level, but just keep the truck in place for quick coupling when leaving. I'll ask Chris about what's for dinner and sometimes we need the grill or not. If it's cold out I'll pull the fire ring out of the front basket. We cook over the fire ring too using skillets on a grate or the Lodge Dutch Oven. We've had more rain, certainly than we're used to, so I'm often partially breaking camp the night before to be prepared for a Midwest storm. Several nights I put our lawn chairs inside the pickup so they would be dry in the morning for coffee outdoors. When we leave, Chris works inside and I do the outside, it only takes us 20 minutes to break camp ready to leave. No checklists but we have it down now. Got to see all we can on our large travel loop. I remember the map of your large loop which is at least as big. I'm not pulling the Oliver, not likely to Minnesota again in my lifetime, so we want to make the most of it on our way to and from! Enjoy your trip and best wishes, JD
    2 points
  10. Nice idea. Maybe someone artistic will step up. I like it! We never have kept up with nights, just miles. 160k plus, and we've slowed down a lot since covid/2020. And infant grand baby, who limits my travel, but brings me daily joy, this year! We've already traveled so many places with our Oliver, and foreign camping with rented equipment. None of them compare to the smile I get every morning from my grandson.
    2 points
  11. More important than number of nights is $/night. I’m finally under $1000! 🤪
    2 points
  12. Thought this might help someone else out. The water pump was not working. The main switch light was on and functional. The bathroom switch was functional. No noise from the pump at all. I opening the compartment and immediately saw that one of the wires had come loose from the pump. I plugged it in and all is well. I think I will go back in and try to tighten the connection. Hull 1467
    1 point
  13. What type of torque tool is good for the electronic connections in our Oliver. Product name and link would be appreciated. Our nuts on the inverter breaker came loose 2 years after I replaced the breaker. This caused intermittent issues and resulted in the flat cable ends becoming pitted. I sprayed the ends with 2 coats of a conductivity product. After it dried I installed cables and nuts, and applied Locktite Green per Jason E. I tightened with a wrench. I would have felt a lot better if I knew they were tightened correctly.
    1 point
  14. Hope you enjoy the "wall" right outside of Wall (SD). The views (particularly at dawn and dusk) are spectacular! Hopefully it is not too crowded there such that you don't get a spot right on the rim. Bill
    1 point
  15. Oliver is no longer using a breaker. They have switched to a large, more dependable fuse. Not sure what the cost would be to switch to the new system. Jason E. suggest I stick with the breaker. I'm going to watch things closely.
    1 point
  16. OK - A VERY quick Google of stickers looks like it would cost about $0.90 to $1.00 each for an order of 100 stickers plus (of course) mailing fees for the USPS, and envelopes for mailing. So, all in you are talking about $2.00 for each sticker. Would 100 of us be willing to fork out a couple of bucks to show that we have spent 100 nights boondocking in our Ollie? Bill
    1 point
  17. The badge/patch/sticker idea is great
    1 point
  18. Reminds of an award we had as members of the Chrysler 300 Club International (was a member 15+ years while I restored a ‘59 300E)! We had two meets a year, spring and fall meets. In a way similar to the spring OTT National Rally and the fall Texas Rally. Of all the awards, People’s Choice, Concours Judging, my favorite award was the Long Distance Award, given to those who in their old classic drove the furthest to get to the meet! This was the true badge of honor, no points for the sitting Trailer Queen. It took work and time on the road to achieve this award! For those of you who put real miles on your Olivers should deserve such an award! 😂
    1 point
  19. This is the rafter fixing point for the trailer side. And I usually tighten the rafter knob before raising the awning to a height I can't reach. Mossey
    1 point
  20. We rarely use the rafter. As I remember it has a hook like thing on the trailer side and I can’t remember how it attaches to the awning. I think it is to provide stability, although we’ve not noticed much difference. I think it also helps in rainy situations if you forget to get enough angle for drainage. Just don’t try to crank the awning in with the rafter still deployed! Mike
    1 point
  21. On our recent trek from FL to the UT parks, we stayed in some places for one night, others for 10 (most for 5 or more). Sometimes the next campsite was only 50 miles down the road. One day it was 1,600. (OK, that was 36 hours over 2 days with sleep at a truck stop.) But, for me, the freedom is the point. I can adventure till exhausted and chill till bored. Perfect. 🙂
    1 point
  22. We live in Beaverton, Oregon. Your timeframe for visiting the PNW will show you our best weather. The Olympic Peninsula in Washington has the rain forest with lots of moss hanging from the trees. They get about 140 inches of rain yearly, but the summers are dry. Enjoy your trip. John
    1 point
  23. It’s likely the age difference between our hulls. If you keep up with yours every year or two they may stay nice!
    1 point
  24. Not sure if this will work with your awning.
    1 point
  25. Yes. And we carry a spare. And, a spare for the rear jacks, too. It is possible to raise and lower all the jacks manually. And, I'll also mention that it's slow and not so much fun. Our 2008 trailer is now almost "old enough to vote", and has lived outdoors its whole life, so replacing exterior switches due to corrosion, is not entirely a surprise. Just can be inconvenient. Jd's jumper could be a helpful small addition to our tiny spare parts kit. With a newer trailer, you might just want to check to make sure you have enough battery power to the switch. The jacks draw a lot, quickly , and I've found over the years that a low battery (i still have agms) can cause a temporary failure.
    1 point
  26. I don’t see why not. This post fuse is called Marine Rated Battery Fuse (MRBF). I bought these in 60A to protect our DC2DC charger and another to protect my positive bus. I went with ANL for the main since OTT had installed a holder there and I needed to up it to 400A for our Victron Inverter upgrade. They do make a 300A MBRF. I went with this South Bend brand. Here is their 300A MBRF holder and 2-pack fuses. https://a.co/d/05ee0Ia
    1 point
  27. You owe Mossemi a pop or two. These photos were taken while camped in some forsaken campground where (I'm sure) they had mosquitos as big as 747's and alligators and all things of that nature. 🤣 Bill
    1 point
  28. These did the trick! Thank you very much!!
    1 point
  29. Hope they help! Mossey
    1 point
  30. Thanks Mossemi. I appreciate the response. I did see this and there were a couple inconsistencies between the drawing and my "as built". For example I have 3 wires coming out of motor (4th and last photo), not 2 as shown on drawing. Also, there is a double terminal on the toggle that controls the jack with connection for 2 wires one of which is shown on second pic. This is not indicated on drawing. This will teach me to take plenty of pics before removing stuff. Lesson learned....again. I think what would be most useful is if someone could send a couple pics of their jack showing the terminals and which wires go where. Thanks again.
    1 point
  31. This schematic and information is from Barker's website and may be of help! Mossey vip_3000_all_pages.pdf
    1 point
  32. Congrats to you! That’s amazing!
    1 point
  33. Maybe we need a conversion rate 😀. I imagine it would be self-reported and not an official metric we somehow track on everyone, some claim whatever badge you feel good about claiming LOL.
    1 point
  34. Took a break over Thanksgiving, leaving trailer and truck with brother in law for a couple weeks. Also, visited some friends who insisted we sleep in their house, even tho I always sleep better in #841. Those are the nights I slept in the trailer during this trip. I think I'm at about 7k miles since I left.
    1 point
  35. You might be more than that... Sept, oct, nov, dec, jan. Long trip
    1 point
  36. Tomorrow will be my 100th night in the Ollie since I left on my round-the-continent trip in early September. I'm on the way home now so I think I'll hit 102 nights before the trip concludes.
    1 point
  37. I like the idea of badges. They probably need more granular steps than just those 3 (every 250?). I am still in the early phase but dreaming of the day I can start racking them up faster.
    1 point
  38. I would suggest a different design for a 100-night, 500-night, and 1,000-night patch. Who are the graphic artists out there? HA!
    1 point
  39. We’re a bit behind Steve and Tali, we only have about 110,000 miles and somewhere around 750 nights. I’ll have to check my spreadsheet. We’ve slowed down a bit this last year or two, 92yo mother next door and daughter with 4 kids nearby has been keeping us closer to home than before. Mike
    1 point
  40. Just look at all that coin you're saving!
    1 point
  41. Some of us newbies to get the 100 patch now or soon. You may have to make a 500 or even a Millennia badge for @ScubaRx and @Mike and Carol, just to name two, and likely for many of you out there in Ollieland!
    1 point
  42. Steve, again congrats on your special milestone! You got me thinking, and then of course I had to count! 🤣 In 19 months, we're at only 54 nights. Still working part-time and had much maintenance and mods to do in our first year of ownership. With a week soon to Quartzsite, another 7-10 days around AZ this spring and very soon to come will be our longest trip ever to Minnesota and back, with many points between, from Memorial Day to the 4th of July! We will hit 100 before the end of this long trip, 25 months into Ollieland!
    1 point
  43. Certainly a big deal - Congratulations!
    1 point
  44. Currently at Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park near Live Oak, Florida, for a fiberglass camper rally with 236 trailers. Tomorrow we head to Blackwater River State Park north of Pensacola for six nights, Fort Pickens on the Gulf for another six. After that we head to north central Florida to Salt Springs National Recreation Area in Ocala National Forest for almost two weeks. A short cruise out of Jacksonville to the Bahamas, and the north to Savannah, maybe Charleston, and then home. We should be back in northern Ohio by March 1st.
    1 point
  45. 100 night - nice! Just starting to feel like home? Be safe out there. Bill
    1 point
  46. Congrats. We keep a list of nights. 2024 was big for us ,105 nights. 2025 is scheduled to be bigger.
    1 point
  47. A red letter day. Where are you?
    1 point
  48. You can adjust the water flow with the trickle feature button. I leave mine set for a low flow (low pressure stream) when being used as a sink faucet as a water saving measure, thereby reducing amount going to gray tank, as well. Also, the handle is positioned against the wall and spout angled toward the drain for optimum use.
    1 point
  49. Perhaps this excerpt by a contributor to the sprinter-source.com forum will provide answer to your question: “The need for a soft start on an RV air conditioner isn't a new problem, this is the case with all 13.5k and 15k BTU air conditioners I've encountered. RVers have always known they experience air conditioner operation problems at low voltage campgrounds, particularly in the high temperature high current demand times of summer camping. The air conditioner compressor won't compete for power, it just doesn't run. The air conditioner fan runs but the compressor won't start if the shore power voltage is to low, because it can't get enough current. Issues with air conditioner high LRAs have become more apparent with the popularity of Lithium batteries and inverters. Folks want to run their air conditioner off Lithium batteries and a 3000w inverter, but dampening the LRA is the only way to do that. The Atmos LRA is 48.5a, Dometic Penguin ll LRA is 52a, and the Truma LRA is 58a. Micro-Air was the first company to realize the RV industry needed a solution for reducing air conditioner compressor LRA, which is why they created the EasyStart. Micro-Air had this market cornered until just a couple of years ago when SoftStartRV started producing a similar type of soft start device. Both the EasyStart and SoftStartRV dampened the Dometic Penguin ll's LRA to around 24a. The lower the LRA the easier for the RV electrical system to run it (shore or generator power or Lithium battery/inverter). All us LTVers have added EasyStarts or SoftStartRVs to our Dometic Penguin lls. The Truma technicians I interviewed at the Tampa RV Super Show made it clear their air conditioner needed a soft start and the if you wanted to use Lithium batteries and a 3000w inverter. They also were very clear that a 3000w inverter was the minimum sized inverter to operate their unit. I believe the SoftStartRV is the only unit that is compact enough to fit inside the Truma Aventa. Based on my observations of the Atmos running off my Xantrex 3000w and 1 of my Lithionics 320ah Lithium battery and then 2 and 3 batteries, I suspect it doesn't really have a soft start. The Atmos brochure says it has a "Low voltage startup function." The marketing for these Gree manufactured air conditioners are quite misleading, using the words low voltage startup, soft start, and inverter compressor in vague terms. I'm installing a SoftStartRV on my Atmos tomorrow to see if it improves upon some of the concerning behaviors I've been seeing. The Truma and Atmos have the identical Rated Load Amperage (RLA) of 10.5a at 120vAC or 136.5a at 13vdc (Lithium battery voltage). The Dometic RLA was 12.9a. The RLA is considered a maximum normal steady state operating current. Air conditioners can run on lower RLAs, as low as 70% under their RLA. In my testing of the Atmos I see it is using less RLA, which is very good. The Atmos heat mode runs about 20-30a more for heat mode. The Atmos brochure says cooling current is 11a (143a at 13vdc) and heating is 10a (130a at 13vdc), but I suspect those numbers have been accidentally reversed, because heat mode definitely takes more current and runs slightly louder in decibels than the Atmos cooling mode.“
    1 point
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