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John, I’m confident you know this, but wanted to let everyone know they boxed and shipped our unit on it’s side, so after unpacking let it sit upright for at least 24 hours before operation.

JD, Thank you for your gracious invitation. I would love visit, patch a few loose ends on the trailer and learn from you. Unfortunately Prescott is in our rear view mirror. Assuming we get our power in order, we plan to loop into southern Ut, then New Mexico and find our way home (humboldt county Califroina) by way of San Deigo. Our style is to have a general travel plan with the flexibility to wander as areas interst us. This is our first time in this region. We will return. We would like to recipocate by extending a standing invitation to visit us. We have 8 acres in the redwoods. King and Coho Salmon run in Lindsay creek next our property in the winter. The general area is special and well worth the trip if you have never visited.

Thanks for the warning regarding fire and the great diagrams/images. Out of caution we are not attempting to run any power from 30amp sources. We are again heating the trailer with an electric portable heater with short 12 gauge extension cable through dinette window. We have the dinette hatch open to warm plumbing here.. Additionally, we have enough battery to run the trailer heater for a while in the early morning to heat the plumbing on under the passenger side bed. With some luck, our dilemma will over tomorrow. The good news, we did not waste the day. The temp was an amzing sunny 50 degrees on the Grand Canyon south rim. Absolutely fantasitic day. Even better, almost no-one around the canyon. No traffic, empty parking area, empty campgrounds and hotels due to the main water line being shut down for emergency repairs. No water throughout. the park was our private playground today.. a once in a lifetime event. Doesn't get any better than this

We purchased the same compressor dehumidifier and it did a good job for us, too! Tried this unit for 3 days in Ollie with outside humidity ranging from 50% in the afternoon to 90% before sunrise with outside temps ranging from low 40s to afternoon upper 60s. This unit removed about a quart of water daily. I dumped the tank daily, but it also has a drain hose that could be run into the kitchen sink or shower drain. Set the unit at 40% and it actually kept the inside humidity at 47% when the compressor shut off to 55% when the compressor turned back on. It has CSA certification. Took a Joker out of a deck of cards to cover the light on the front of the unit, since it's bright at night.

Thank you so much @Roger and @rideandfly! I just bought one Amazon used “Like New” for $79! (they have more available at this price.)

@jd1923 This is a compressor dehumidifier. If you go through the pictures on Amazon, one of them shows this.

Boondocking on FR 401, east of AZ-87 (Beeline Hwy Mesa to Payson), with amazing views of the Four Peaks Wilderness due east! It only took me a week to get ‘er dirty after polishing and ceramic coating, serious washboards getting here! Dirt not sticking like before though. Too much an OHV location, but as the sun sets early they’re already gone for the day! Quiet and truly majestic and should be a great night for star-gazing!

If you happen to head south, you have an invitation to visit and we can fix this! 😎

Thanks for the report. Ours did a great job, too!

I recently bought the KNKA 1600 sq. foot dehumidifier from on Amazon and used it for the first time last week on a trip (I have been running it in my camper when it's parked at home). It is a compressor dehumidifier and did an excellent job. We were in the Okefenokee Swamp and the temps were in the 50s and 60s with 80% to 90% humidity at times. The unit did an excellent job pulling the moisture out of the air. I ran it the whole time we were in the swamp and it maintained the indoor humidity in the 40s to 50s with no problem. It is small enough to pack on the floor of the closet. It measures about 7 1/2" deep, by 10" wide and 14" tall. I did cover the light in front and will probably cover the light on top on our next trip as it lights up the whole camper at night. It is very quiet.

Over Thanksgiving week, my wife, daughter, dog and I drove out to Yosemite and Sequoia National parks. I let the dog do most of the driving 🙂 Camped at Yosemite Pines RV park, which was very nice, but a bit far from Yosemite. Made for some long morning and evening drives. Spend about 4 days there. My daughter worked from the RV one day via Starlink. That was our first experience with it and it went really good. Sequoia we stayed at Lemon Cove RV park. Decent place and much closer to the NP gates. Saw a bear on Bear Hill one morning, so we decided not to hike that area that morning. Had lunch with some deer then drove up to Kings Canyon, which was better, in our opinion, than Sequoia. All beautiful places though. The Oli towed great the entire trip and was nice to have some of the updates I had done previous to this trip. The new axels and Alcan springs felt great. The new Tosot AC/heater worked well for night time when I ran it for heat since I was plugged in to campsite power. No reason to burn through the propane while hooked to electrical. New Truma water heater worked perfect too. Overall, a great trip and no issues with the Oliver. It was also nice to have our daughter fly in from Denver and spend the week with us.

Taylor: Below is WayFinder's post about loose screws in the ATS. Keep us posted on your "adventure in power". Geronimo

Just in case someone finds this old thread. Many of us have since upgraded to the latest version o fthe Progressive Dynamics Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) Switch box (Part # PD5110010Q). It can still be found at eTrailer.com (as of December 2025). This new part is a far superior model using Wago connectors. PLEASE GET THE OLD-STYLE ATR BOX UPGRADED IMMEDIATELY!!!!! My #110 is wired differently than other trailers of the time period in regards to the front generator power receptacle, it by-passes the EMS altogether. Other trailer owners have the front shore power line going through the EMS too, via the ATR box.

Please do so only with zero 120 Volts in the trailer. No generator or shore power connected. No solar connected if you have it. We have seen several cases where the wires in the ATS have vibrated loose. Your tapping and getting/losing power would indicate a temporary failure. May just be a loose wire in the ATS. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ONLY IN A DIRE EMERGENCY: To bypass all of the shore power system: Turn off your 30 amp main breaker. Turn off any other breakers you don't absolutely need. You want to keep your loads down to under 15 amps MAX. You could energize the electrical system, with some risk, by modifying an extension cord by cutting off the female end, and install a second male 120V plug. Use your generator to back feed power to the outlest by the entry door. I would not suggest plugging it into a shore power source at the RV park as it has even more electrical potential than a 2K generator does. Hence a small generator may short, but it's breaker will likely limit the current flow. Hence not doing this with the power pole at the RV Park. GJ

Roger, were you able to confirm this after purchase. The Amazon listing does not state "compressor" anywhere on the page. Thank you, JD

@taylor.coyote It sounds like you have an RV tech on the way. That's the best I think in your situation, especially if you are not familiar with these parts, and on the road without all the tools. As @John Dorrer mentioned, many of us owners with older Olivers have had to replace their Automatic Transfer Relay (ATR) switch, AND SHOULD!!!! I've attached my pic of the old style box (insides) and my new style switch box. I changed out the box myself (with shore power disconnected!!!!). It took me maybe 20 or 30 minutes. I've also noted in my pics that my front shore power receptacle does NOT go thru my Electrical Management System (EMS) box. Many do have their front port going thru the EMS, mine was just not done like that at the factory, which proved handy last year in the hot July whether in Georgia, when my EMS kept over heating and switching off. I think it's time for a new one (to-do list). But, I always carry an external EMS to place on the exterior camp ground pedestals. When I realized it was not the camp ground killing the power and it was my EMS, I just used the front inlet port to run the power and used my external EMS for the rest of the trip. Worked like a champ. So, I guess I will NOT re-route that front port thru the EMS in the future, lesson learned. Not everyone has that front port. If folks do not have the front inlet power generator receptacle, then they will not have an ATR box. Hope this helps a bit, and you get help quickly. Reminder, the ATR switch box should be an annual inspectable item. I just checked mine too since I could not find my old pictures. My old box was very difficult, and scary, to push in the sides of the box to release the tabs. The new box is MUCH easier to push in and release the tabs. Here is the new style ATR switch box (I only order this type of important items. from eTrailer, NOT Amazon: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer-Switch/Progressive-Dynamics/PD5110010Q.html

@rideandfly I used the KNKA on a trip earlier this week in the Okefenokee Swamp where the temps were in the 50s and 60s and the humidity was in the 80% to 90% range and it did an excellent job keeping the humidity down.

Have you checked the wire connections inside the transfer switch housing (with all power disconnected, obviously). Those wires have been known to come loose.

Taping the transfer switch, getting power and then not having it is not good. The transfer switch you apparently have ,has had several owners having fires and melted wires as a result of no maintenance to tighten all wire connectors. Chris Sharff is one owner that had to replace his transfer switch. The transfer switch is located, I believe under the rear dinette. The last thing you need is a fire.

Stay away from the cheapies! We live on the coast in a very wet redwood rainforest and have tried several Peltier electronic type portable dehumidifiers from Amazon that were absolute garbage. We found that the Afloia Q3 Portable 20oz was the least worthless Peltier, but it's no longer available in Amazon. I wouldn't recommend any of the Peltier's anyway. They're rated in Ounces of water compared to compressor type dehumidifiers that are rated in Pints... it's a bit of a giveaway! The Peltiers are cheaper, smaller, and lighter, and most compressors are too large and heavy for the Oliver. But I've been eying the Ivation 14.7 pint compressor for under $200. The Ivation is the smallest compressor I've seen at 7x7x18 inches, 2 lbs. It has a drain hose so it doesn't have to be emptied all the time🙏 I'm thinking it will fit on the counter and drain into the sink. It's even advertised for RVs! Hope that helps! Cheers! Geoff.

Our 320W panels top off our three Battle Borns without issue. The only time they don’t get too 100% is when it’s a very cloudy day with no sun. MIke

JD, I hope the no caulk works for you. I think you are making a big mistake. The tape caulk/rope used to hold the windows in place isn't designed for UV exposure. The sealant applied by Oliver is a secondary line of defense and designed to protect the tape caulk from UV exposure.. The tape caulk/rope will fail and you most likely would have to pull the windows, and start over. Living in Arizona you will have an accelerated deterioration. I spent 40 years designing sealant systems, for exterior work. High-rises, schools, and many more.

We got 5 years out of 2-12 volt AGM's before needing new ones. The thing to remember is 12.2-12.3 is the lowest you want to go It takes only one time below 12.2/12.3 to cause damage. Some might get lucky, but I know several people who destroyed their AGM's after one low draw.

AI has the following to say on the subject of AGM battery life: "AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries generally last 3 to 8 years, but the lifespan depends heavily on usage: expect 3-5 years for deep cycling (RVs, marine) and 5-8 years for standby/float (backup power), with high-quality units potentially lasting longer. Key factors include temperature, quality, depth of discharge (how deeply it's drained), and charging practices, with extreme heat or shallow discharges shortening life, while proper maintenance extends it. " Therefore, as Mike says above - you are probably at or very near the end of life for your current batteries. Bill

We found that after about 5 years our AGM’s started declining. We replaced them with 300ah of Battle Born lithium 5 years ago this month and we’ve never even been close to running out of battery power. If yours are four years old, it’s probably age combined with the cold weather that’s putting a stress on them. BTW, 300ah doesn’t sound like much compared to what some folks have installed but it’s been plenty for us even for extended boondocking. Mike

Ditto for me. Relatively speaking, our installs are at the lower end of the scale of difficulty. Without additional monitoring devices (think Victron stuff here) there is some requirement for having a bit of experience with energy usage. Speaking for myself - while using my "old" lead acid batteries I never had an occasion where the batter charge of those was below 83% FULL! So, when I got my LiTime Li batteries that had even more amp hours of capacity AND they could be discharged much lower than the 50% limit of the old lead acid batteries, I found myself virtually bathing in a wonderful supply of energy. I should note here that I VERY RARELY have a need for air conditioning and I am VERY conservative of even using the furnace (think blower motor using electricity here). But, if you are in a similar boat, you too can do this conversation VERY easily. But, if you want/need more bells and whistles then adding what you need is really not too difficult. Bill

I'm with TopGun2 and Mike & Carrol in using a minimalist approach. JD's approach is a good start for cleaning up the cabling and that's good too. If you want to do a 100% upgrade to current technology then there are 2 in 1 Charger/Converter units, computer interfaces with gizmology way over my Pea Brain. So I'll leave it to you to respond back as to your goal. Several of us though like keeping things simple. Personally I LIKE have seperate charging and inverter systems. The combo units, best one is Victron's, is in our opinion overkill in the gizmology zone. Have a blip and you could lose both 120V and 12V capability. Is our world if we lose one, we are still in business in many ways. I suspect that our 2019 hulls were built with the same PD Converters. They likely have the same LI switch that can work with many Lithium Battereis. If you are in the less is better group, then reusing the Converter is a good cost reduction... if you have the switch on the PD mother board. Below is one of my DIY's on this topic. Up to about two or three years ago, the #1 Litho battery was the Dragon Engergy Battleborn's. Now as stated above thee are some higher power density units with good quality too. Finally, if you desire info for minimalist approach, you for sure need a way for keeping track of your SOC. If so, send me a PM and I can provide you with some handy info. So, welcome to the OTT Family and good luck in your project. Geronimo John Progressive Dynamics PD4045 LiCSV Upgrade.docx

French Glen / Steens MT petroglyphs and painted rock CG white spar / Prescott Sedona

Cave Creek Regional Park, our 3rd visit! Site #9 is the best spot in the park! Better yet, @ChristianD will stop by soon to meet. They live only 15 min away. 😂

The auto-switching function is most likely just broken, but the inability to even manually switch between tanks could have been frozen. Your regulator may not have worked properly even when it was new. With our hull #1291, I have had to manually switch between tanks since we bought it new in Hohenwald. That prompted me to invest in Mopeka tank sensors, which are on a Cyber Monday sale right now. Buy two, one for each tank. https://www.amazon.com/Mopeka-Check-Sensor-Steel-Tanks/dp/B09J6MXJKT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Exyy9znT-SQGS49BGKyHY8ska73Uv8UcW7kjFcD5amLXllefHdvZI9wor2zVTUu_HhYmQxB3bapRHQuaIsBOy6fqVjO7n3zsjQ9skHvk2LQmqIbgav0y31tXmkHXPjxRMvJD0WQLLb5H2SPD6tEMIXdiP5KAe6190HRcuSaGgLPY_82w62plWFkRqUzSt9C2P2BuIibPH-53VmHFVohGOm0i5u8ejoXxzjTHAFhKYA1KJi-YdzdikEnsHz5-nSqBoTB8mn2Lc_RZEoDJ-xbdZgGxet5-WJzelCBJJCRgn0.2nf7_EzuuwFWa_vGhzCEyPMqhD9F4i7-2d7c70IgJu0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=678467137404&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=39930829735022087--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=39930829735022087&hvtargid=kwd-2239628814146&hydadcr=7696_13589679&keywords=mopeka%2B2%2Bpack&mcid=2a3b25f10644368bbbb60cf5e4c564c8&qid=1764610880&sr=8-6&th=1 I monitor propane levels with the app on my phone, then manually switch when one tank gets low. I am interested to know if you are able to manually switch the regulator between tanks once it thaws out.

Dave: I agree that only having the scuppers would not do much as there would be no "draw". But as Bill stated, and I also nearly always do is to also open up the bath room vent. This and the air leaks from the Max Fan (When closed) do provide a draw for the scuppers below. Now is that adequate enough? I would respond with a "Maybe, it depends". LOL. The maybe part depends on factors such as: How old is your trailer? Has it off-gassed the offending VOC's to a great extent? What's being cooked or items brought into the trailer that could be adverse to the users? Wind direction and velocity. Construction or Fires in the region generating particulates. Other factors such as distance from an exhaust source, local pollution, etc. It is helpful that our OTT's with their solid surfaces, are easy to clean and those surfaces don't generate much off gassing once cured. But as you stated some individuals need to be more or even extremely cautious and I certainly recognize this as a valid concern. So your approach to the topic is spot on. Experiment if you can and act according to you and your family needs. For those where a HEPA filter would help, having a small HEPA filter such as the below Honeywell that we use during fire smoke events has been very helpful. Another planned benefit is that if we must excape a fire/smoke situtation, the 20 to 50 watt power draw can be plugged into our Ford F-150 400 watt inverter to run the unit in the truck as we get out of the hazard zone. This could be useful for other disaster situtations as well. PS: Be sure to close the outside air vents on the truck A/C should you find yourself in the "Fire Country" scenario.) For travel we wrap our HEPA in a towell and it fits easily into the OTT OE2 Attic area. GJ

We spend a great deal of time "off road" and have struggled with a reliable solution to protect the trailer from road rock damage. In our case with many miles using only mud flaps, the glass/ gelcoat at close inspection had the effect of a mild sandblasting. The PPF installers did not recommend installation due the surface being porous and not super smooth due to "road wear". We have been pleased with a somewhat radical solution; shooting the nose of our trailer with Vortex. We learned of the Vortext process from "Bugeyed driver". Our Vortext coating was applied recently but so far amazingly "bomb tough". We are now traveling on nasty fractured rocked/graveled roads stress free. This solution may not be for everyone but is a valid consideration if you spend a lot of time on gravel or your gelcoat is "road worn" and not longer super smooth. A further note on gravel protection: John Davies has a post on an under trailer mid flap to protect the under side and trailer running gear (socket, springs, axles and other) from gravel damage. We have found this to be effective and recommended if you spend time on gravel.

I can't help with finding the phone as it is a problem I often have myself. Finding the app is simplified for me because I organize all my apps in folders and then organize the folders alphabetically. This folder is named "Oliver" and it contains Lithionics, Xantrex, LevelMate, and WBA Check. In the folder I organize based on frequency of usage, although with only four apps in this one that's hardly important.

If you mean you ran the inverter, and just ran two small 110 fans, i think you may have an issue. Please complete your signature. Many lithium require full charge within a period of time to properly register "full charge" status. Even our Bluesky, with agm batteries, requires hitting 100 per cent charge to show proper readings after a disconnect. Kind of a "reset" situation. You may also have a wiring issue.

If you have the Lithionics app on your phone you can see how much current you are drawing.

the box is toasted..... imaged attached. I'll send more about our adventure later.