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"Track "IT" down! Yesterday I towed Twist home to prepare it for an upcoming trip. As per usual - I plugged the 30 amp shore power cord into a 15 amp extension cord which (in turn) was plugged into a GFI outlet on the side of the house. All was working as it should until about 4 hours later it was time to plug in a vacuum cleaner in order to start cleaning the floor of the camper - yep, the vacuum didn't work! All other things were still working (or so I thought) but plugging and unplugging and checking the GFI - both inside and outside the camper yielded no joy. OK - time to check fuses - OK time to take apart the circuit breaker panel - OK, time to check the house circuit breaker panel - OK, time to take a break and actually think about what is going on. Finally (I can be a bit slow sometimes but this was really starting to p... me off), it was time to start getting serious. So, starting have already noted that 12 volt things still worked AND with the inverter on the 110 volt interior items worked, I felt that the "problem" was isolated to the 110 volt shore power. But, in my mind I had already checked that and there was no problem with fuses, circuit breakers or connections. BUT - lets actually TEST these things to make sure that they are actually live at each connection point. Sure enough, the extension cord was bad. No sign of melting, burning, corrosion, loose connection, or anything. Also, no one had tripped over it nor disturbed it in any way since I had first had things working. Eventually (probably during some dark cool rainy winter day I'll get that extension cord back out and see what the problem is. But, for now, the problem was fixed by simply getting another cord and getting back to work. Bill

@Geronimo JohnI hope that has the answers that you are looking for. When I brought hull 313 home in March 2018 I crawled all over it taking pictures of data plates on equipment with model numbers and serial numbers. I then went online and found manuals (owner’s, installation, service, parts, whatever I could find) for the model and serial numbers that were on our Oliver. Some of the manuals on the Oliver site aren’t the correct manual for the model and serial number range of the equipment used in our Oliver. I then printed out the manuals and put them in 3-ring binders that I carry in a tote that fits under the front dinette seat. I know it’s bulky and isn’t as convenient as a link on a phone but I can open a manual and look at it and make notes while I’m working on something. Bill

We do pretty much the same as you JD - except we always dump before departure - unless the campground has no dump station or sewer connections. I’ve found as you have that without a good degree of rearward tilt on the Ollie, that tanks drain slowly if at all. I generally can get away with just using the front jack and a jack block to lift the nose a bit. I can usually spot a bit if an incline at the dump station and take advantage of it. Often having to pull in “the wrong way” to capitalize on the grade of the dump station. I haven’t found a huge need to elevate the curb side to get the grey tank to empty. Unless the dump station pavement is really terribly pitched.

I would get a hammer and beat that extension cord FLAT..... then I would cut it up in little pieces, braid it into a noose and hang it in full view of the other extension cords as an example of what will happen if they pull the same sh%t.

This thread was very helpful to us. We’re in a National Forest campground and powered up the inverter and there was no power to all the outlets except the microwave so that’s where I had to plug in my cpap. Did a search on the forum this morning and voila - problem solved. It was the gfi. Thanks to all who contribute to the Oliver knowledge base.

Lynnville Falls NC 2fer

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed From Hank’s FB post: ”Camping Northern Florida. 31F this morning and a very comfortable 76F inside. A small space heater on the low setting only. 12VDC warming blankets on the beds. Using only 11 amps shore power. Basement temperature is holding at 66F. Two small 12VDC fans, one port and one stbd side keep a gentle air flow circulating thru the basement. With the bathroom vanity port open, cabin air is flowing into the basement and returning thru the return grill below the bed. The basement partitions have been removed and a 700W Xtreme heater is mounted inside (auto on at 43F off at 55F) for very cold conditions. Last week camping at 14F the Xtreme heater did come on to maintain a temperature well above freezing in the basement while we were gone.” If you are a member of the Oliver Owners of America facebook group, look up member Hank White, and scroll through his group posts. This one was from January 2025, with several photo. Hank has done a *lot* of cool modifications, and having seen them in person, I’ve added several to my list to things to do.

June and I are wrapping up a family wedding week in Denver. Next we will be heading out to the high country for some boondocking. Will for sure need our Dometic RM 2454 refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Could use some guidance: WHAT I THINK I KNOW o Refrigerator works normally on 12 Volt power supply. o Refrigerator works normally on 120 Volt . o Refrigerator does not work on propane regardless of outside temperature. It seems to hover a bit above 60 degrees in the main area of the unit when using gas mode. Likely about what ambient has been inside our Ollie due to nighttime cooling temps. WHAT I HAVE OBSERVED o The thermistor that activates cooling is operating normally only when using 120 and 12 Volt power. o Control board appears to be operating normally for all power sources though. o When switched to gas, the Control Board is trying to strike. Sends three strikes and then seems happy. o The striker appears to be igniting a dribble of gas at the propane orifice, however, it is less than 5% of what is necessary for heating the absorption unit. ANALYSIS: Leads me to believe that I have a gas problem. Ok, I set myself up for that one...... Thinking it is likely either: o A 95% plugged gas orifice. o A defective gas control valve. o A safety thermistor that would shut off gas flow if no flame is sensed. INVESTIGATE: Thinking I should: o Pull the gas orifice and see if clear. If contaminated, clean in a non-destructive manner. o Pull the gas tube after the orifice to see if any issues there. o Test the gas control valve and mother board: . Is it possible to spoof the main control valve with voltage to determine if it’s operational? If yes, what voltage should I see from the mother board? Can I spoof it to see if it is functional or if the mother board is weak? o Remove gas tube downstream of orifice and look for mud daubers or other such inclusions. o Does the igniter/striker also act as a safety to shut off gas flow if the strike process is not successful? If not how is that safety feature accomplised? Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations or part numbers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Geronimo John

That beats stepping on them in bare feet in the middle of the night! 😂

We also drive our truck onto Legos when we hit a dump station.

@Geronimo Johnsee if you can find any answers in this service manual https://fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf I had trouble getting my RM2454 to cool in Ashland VA last week after working fine for 3 weeks. It was just too hot there at 97F for the absorption cycle to work well. I temporarily added a double bladed window fan from Lowes. Still wouldn’t work even at night. Turns out that too much air movement is as bad as not enough. I turned the temporary fan off and the refrigerator started working again. Bill

I have a manual for model 709 and 709-PH. The battery level displayed is determined by the voltage supplying the SeeLevel panel. As others have said see if it’s getting power. You said the tech plugged a new panel in and it was dead also. I can’t believe that the tech didn’t also check the fuses as that would have taken a few minutes. I would check the voltage going into the panel and work back from there This schematic is for 2018 LEII hull 313 so it might not be the same for your hull Bill

JD: Correct on both. Still in Denver and it always works perfectly for months up at King Mountain where we basecamp at 5,300. I think that well over that elevation we would need the other smaller orifice to reduce gas flow due to lack of O2 higher up. Not the case with ours in Denver now. Currently, we don't get anywhere near the gas flow to even heat the ammonia hot enough to flash to cool. Hopefully one of the owners can respond with info about the gas valve voltage and possible test procedure for it. It's a long shot, but worth a try. I have heard others have had mother board issues, but never heard of the refer gas valve going south. Along the gas thread: I'm also wondering if there is a screen that keeps trash from tank insides or junk from bad propane that could clog or plug the oriface? If so, where would it be located? GJ

Spray cleaner of your choice (Fantastik, 409, etc) and an old toothbrush - then a few paper towels. We keep a “Dustbuster” in the trailer for routine cleanups. Keeps the grit buildup to a minimum. A long-term fix -might- be to fill that awkward gap with some kind of caulk. That way there’d be no gap to collect crud. I’d be very careful with acetone or any petroleum or solvent based liquids. I think you’d risk eating away at the flooring adhesive or even the flooring itself.

I believe we have the same model Dometic fridge. Ours has worked fine several times camping in CO outside of Telluride and on the White Mountains in AZ, both above 9K ft. Also, it reads like GJ is still in Denver just over 5K ft. GJ, you're getting the 3 clicks, so all electrical controls are fine. You certainly have a gas issue. I have no experience there but believe your "analysis and investigate" lists are right on. Best wishes, JD

Sounds like altitude to me. Gas appliances often need a different orifice to work at higher altitudes. You might be able to get a high altitude one at a local RV repair shop.

I believe you hit on it here! New issue often comes from last service. I can't believe you were there and OTT Service would not fix an issue they likely created in your scheduled service one business day before! They tried a "new monitor panel." Did they first check the fuse? You have a hull a little older than ours but maybe this circuit is wired the same. Our DC panel has a fuse titled "Water Heater Tank Monitor" (see pic DC fuse #7). Perhaps we're getting closer now! 😎 This 15A fuse might be blown. If so, your HWH would not have 12V to fire up on LP. If you have hot water, I'll bet they pick up 12V from the HWH wiring and if so, there would be an inline fuse between there and the SeeLevel system. It's really bad electrical practice to wire inline fuses at random locations in the basement! RV manufacturers do this often and when I find fuses around the Oliver basement, I move them to a new +bus I wired under the rear dinette seat, so I know where they are, have easy access and never have to reach down under again! Look around for an inline fuse, starting at the HWH then going towards the tank readers or the SeeLevel panel. Hope you find it quickly!

Hey Steve, I’d read here about a couple of owners adding a recirculating system to have hot water available quickly upon opening the tap. I’m not sure that would be “simple” compared to installing a small in-line point of use water heater. Of course, in the bathroom, I’d have to run 110vac there - but less work and hardware than a recirculation system. As for the cold air “leak” (more like an open window…) mine occurs with the MaxxFan closed - and the air coming in the furnace vents and return grill is a breeze. I Mentioned in a previous post that the whole aft starboard corner of the trailer are ice cold with associated condensation problems. I didn’t think burning more propane was a practical or efficient solution to an obvious air infiltration problem. I haven’t sleuthed it out yet - but the door hinge area is a prime suspect - as the door weatherstrip goes -under- the screen door hinges. I’m also wondering if the (Domentic) A/C has a fresh air exchange that can’t be switched on or off like some units have.

This. We had this problem with multiple control panel switches. Solved it by blowing canned air into the switch while exercising it and placing a shop vac hose directly over the switch after exercising it. Also vacuumed out the back side of the control panel. Had to do this a couple of times during the first year of ownership. Been fine ever since.

Is there power to the unit? Does your water pump switch / indicator work? I would check everywhere a service person may have worked to see if there are any pinched, broken, or unplugged wires. Are any other devices not working, check fuses, etc..

Thanks; will check.

My 2021 E2 has an OptiFuse 12V 60A breaker under the street side bunk. The best wiring diagram I have found that’s close to my model is the 2019 manual (page 43) from the Oliver University. See the breaker in the upper left side. Another quick check is the CO monitor under the dinette. That usually is always on, does not go through the circuit breaker. If that has a light on, you have power coming in, so it is likely the breaker.

Been camping this week at Mt. Pisgah Campground NC @ 5,000' on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Some mornings were in the 50s and highs 60s to 70s. Their campsites do not have water or electricity, with the Federal Senior card $15 per night. They have hot showers. When it's hot and humid in the lower elevations, we head to Mt. Pisgah campground to cool off without using AC system. There are plenty of places to hike and a drive on the BRP is always nice, too.

AND - there are fish in Horse Creek - most are 10 to 12 inches but a very good friend of mine can attest to a 17 inch brown that was a bank feeder is there to be enjoyed. On the "interesting" side - be careful to watch for bears. This same friend came back from there one year and said to his wife, "I'm going to need a bigger gun!". In my opinion - sites 2 and 3 are the best sites. No electricity or dump here but there is water available via a hand pump. Bill

Last year I visited Horse Creek Campground in Wyoming. If you are really adventurous you can continue north all the way to Double Cabin Campground. It's beautiful there, but I didn't tow my Oliver that far; it's a long rough road.

Monarch Pass, June 2023. A week later it was sunny and warm!

Brand new owner discovered Chinese made tires on his new trailer. Castle Rock Tires. Oliver has stated they are installing Goodyear Endurance 15", 10-ply "E" Rated tires. So how does a Chinese tire end up on a brand new Oliver trailer? Chinese tires have resulted in hundreds of blowouts on stick built trailers where everything is cheap. This is strange. I told him he needed to reach out to Oliver asap.

Apparently, Oliver has now switched to the Chinese Tires. This has been confirmed by a reliable source.🙃