MAX Burner

OK, I'm sorry - but, this is a brilliant idea!!! HA!

@Frank C: So sorry to see you "Moving-on..." But new life chapters are always exciting times - you will be sorely missed. Your posts have been very informative and useful for us as new OTT owners! Enjoy those new overseas and cruising adventures... Stay safe and keep us posted when able. Best regards, A & D

Welcome to the forums; @Snackchaser don't be a stranger! How timely, your post! We just rec'd our Starlink Mobile kit a couple days ago. Diane works remotely and we need reliable high-speed internet access when traveling during her working schedule. The kit is ready for install, and we've been mulling over YouTubes and determining which way we want to go for a permanent install. Yours is brilliant and we'll be following your procedure. A random thought regarding Dishy Mounting: We're liking the flag pole mount idea, but the flat roof mount is also appealing; but this requires cutting the dishy case and mounting it on some unused real estate on the roof (hard to come by on our's). The flag pole option gets Dishy off the ground and allows for home use options when not on the road. The flat roof mount is clean, virtually out of sight, best of all - it allows full internet access while driving; but may lead to questionable service due to obstructions when boondocked. What are your thoughts on Dishy placement? Just curious. Thanks for posting! Cheers!

@Brian and Brandelyne: You'll both have a trip of a lifetime - before you know it, y'all be "pinch'n tails and suck'n heads"!

@Brian and Brandelyne: Enjoy the Keys! We spent a month there in '18 - scuba diving, standup paddle boarding, and generally having a blast. Grassy Key was one of our favs - many manatee sightings there. Suggest taking the time to visit Fort Jefferson on Dry Tortuga - very impressive and a nice boat ride from Key West. Ah! Capt. Tony's.... Keep us posted with pix of your Oliver adventure.

We were at a commercial campsite years ago - as we were driving around looking for our site, we drove by a couple that were tent/car-camping who survived a "widow maker." A huge Ponderosa pine tree branch broke off at some point and landed on their SUV rooftop - demolishing the vehicle. A few more feet in the other direction and it could have taken them out inside their tent. Serious "dodging of the bullet..." Sh*t Happens.

Hey, Dusty! Welcome aboard and congrats on acquiring #089. We bought Mighty Hull #226 last March and we've logged just north of 10k miles since - so, strap on and enjoy the ride, its a fun one, especially as a new family member on the forums! We're definitely planning to visit Maine and the eastern seaboard in Casa Blanca, you live in a wonderful area for outdoors enthusiasts... Keep us posted on your purchase. Cheers!

Someone with an artistic ability should design an "Oliver Window Shade Re-Stringer Club" patch for our flight jackets.... You get to wear one after successfully re-stringing your first window shade 🤪

@Vector - Lanham: You also may wish to consider disconnecting the toilet water supply line to ensure its a clean/clear and unobstructed run from the supply valve into the toilet - this area can also accumulate the "crud" you experienced in your shower pan and bathroom sink. Clearing out this debris allows for the desired flow when flushing the toilet.

Same here! 30A all WX outlet installed outside the Man Cave for travel prep, maintenance, and the occasional visitor (eh, @Geronimo John?)

Our ProWatt is connected to the main DC bus and the Automatic Transfer Switch. When connected to shore power/GENSET, the ATS distributes incoming AC power to the outlets and AC accessories via the AC distribution panel. When not connected to shore power/GENSET the ATS distributes the AC power from the ProWatt to the AC distribution panel then to the AC loads. Like @John E Davies mentioned, the DC connections from the battery bank are recommended by Xantrex to be at least 0/0 for a run that's 6 feet due to DC line loss and high current loads. Our's are upgraded to 1/0 gauge wire. A photo wouldn't show much of the detail. Here's the Xantrex cabling diagram for standard and heavy AC loads:

Same here for our 2017 LE II.

The braided brass bonding straps (as wide as possible) provide, as you'll recall from training, a continuous ground plane from which your antenna can better transmit its signal. By bonding all the metal components of your TV, for example hood, fenders, doors, roof, all body panels including frame you'll be providing a much more efficient ground plane for the antenna (especially if you choose to operate HF). It makes a difference for 2m antennas but not as much. Its tedious and a bit time consuming to bond these components but its really worth it, IMO.

@Cort: Something to consider here, Cort - If you could provide pix of your interior/compartments as @Boudicca908 suggests, if it can be determined that there's enough mounting space you should be able to install an inverter. Further, suggest checking with Jason Essary at OTT Factory and ask where inverters were installed for your interior layout and Hull#/MFG year. We're happy to discuss, via PM, the possibility of making our ProWatt 2000 available to you because we're considering upgrading to a Victron 3000. We boondock most of the time as well and the ProWatt comes in quite handy - it's a single function inverter in that it doesn't charge the battery bank - it only inverts stored DC electricity into AC for the outlets and AC-powered accessories. Just a thought, PM when able, if you're interested. Cheers,

Correct. I wasn't specific about the outside switch location, but inside the battery compartment works, further, I didn't realize newer OTTs now have a master DC cut-off switch with certain battery bank options. But, IMO, it would still be of value to have the capability to externally secure DC power from outside the Oliver in the case of emergency.

Same here - largely because of what we've gleaned from this and similar threads....

We used 2 Lippert friction hinges on our door - wonderful!

@Rivernerd; couldn't have described your suggestions better; well said!

Concur 100%, @Patriot; thankfully, we're having a new DCT shop being built within 4 miles of our home and will no longer need to drive the 25+ miles to our current shop. We've had nothing but positive experiences with them for 15+ years as well... Glad to hear they took good care of y'all @AlbertNTerri up there in Montrose! Cheers to DCT!

Hey, @Badger: Like mentioned above - there's really no option for a permanent mounting location other than the cargo basket or perhaps a covered aluminum lockable cargo basket. @Patriot has a well thought out mounting arrangement for his 3300W Honda, FYI. However, if you could give us an idea of your OTT's general configuration such as: Solar output (Watts)?, Inverter output (Watts)?, Battery bank storage capacity (AmpHrs), GENSET output (Watts), etc., we could help you with ideas of how to transport, use, and secure your GENSET. For example, when boondocking - our GENSET will stay locked in the TV and will likely not see the light of day unless there's many days of cloudy, dark, nasty WX where the solar modules can't keep up with replenishing the battery bank and they'll need "topping-off" using the generator. Everyone's OTTs are configured slightly differently and owners have their particular "style" of camping - this combination tends to drive different uses of their GENSET, if even needed at all. At a high level, there's no "right way" or "wrong way" of doing what you're asking - but we need more details to give you our suggestions. Glad you've reached out to the forums - there's a ton of expertise here and owners willing to share their ideas... Cheers!

@topgun2: Sounds like an awesome fix - can you share some pix? We are still on the fence regarding the microwave - we removed it for several trips earlier this year to increase storage options (for a wine/whisky bar); then put it back in for the last several recent trips. It actually came in handy recently. Low priority on the "To Do List" ATM.

Why OTT initial builds do not come with a master battery bank cut-off switch is not understood by this Oliver owner. I'm sure there's an explanation and that some of the owners on the forums know the answer - just haven't had the occasion to ask them back at the Mother Ship, "...why no DC cut-off switch?" One could make a safety argument for having the switch accessible from the outside in the case of a fire inside. Securing the battery bank immediately after escaping an interior fire situation could save some of the trailer, or certainly keep responders from experiencing electrical burns while attending to a trailer on fire scenario. Not that it means much, but our vintage AS rigs ('72 Overlander and '84 Sovereign) came with such a switch, FYI.

Way to go, Jason!

@John Dorrer: Try sending a few pix of the affected area - we may be able to come up with a collective "FIX" so you won't have to just "live with it". There's always a work-around, brother!

@GAP, @Ronbrink: If understanding the problem correctly, it would seem that if y'all have a 350amp BlueSeas Systems master switch at the battery bank selected to the "OFF" position, it would be able to maintain the Lithium bank SOC (except for the 1 - 2% SOC normal monthly loss) during storage. Shore power would energize the heater/humidifier and not affect battery bank. Or, I might be missing something.