topgun2

OK - I don't have manuals here nor is my Oliver here but having said that the first thing I'd do would be to unplug from shore power and turn off and unplug my inverter and turn off my solar panels. Then I'd check to make sure the wires into and out of the inverter were not loose. Finally, I'd plug the inverter back in and turn it on - if the batteries were full the inverter should come on at this point. If all is well then I'd turn the solar panels back on followed by the shore power. Hopefully this gets you back up. Bill

That "red" switch that Mike D pictures above just may not be in that same location. For a long time this switch was placed under the street side bed. Look around - if you see that switch it is your ticket to happiness.🙂 Bill

By using the word "hot" in this context it means that the wires have current flowing through them. Yes, you are correct - but - there STILL could be current flowing through them. In the event that the leads to the batteries are possibly handled incorrectly then they could cause a shock or could cause a short that possibly could start a fire.

And - While you're at it and if you haven't already done it - you might want to consider a "handle" something like THIS or THIS in order to give you something to grab either when the wind catches the door or simply when you want to close the door from the inside. Bill

Pollen city? Certainly there is Spring in the air (wind). It doesn't take too much practice until one gets to be a real fan of boondocking!😁 Have a bunch of fun! Bill

Got the Ollie, Got the Wife, Got the pup, Got the plants in the kitchen, Got the wine - life is certainly good! Congrats! Bill

I've heard of a couple of owner's that had issues with a light or two either not turning on or off and the fix for that was replacement of the offending unit. But, I've not heard of this problem before which sounds more like an issue with a "central control box" versus individual lights. I'd open a Service ticket. Good luck! Bill

Yes - I didn't think about that being the door and not the body of the camper. There's not much behind that thin door fiberglass besides Styrofoam. JD's suggestion of filling and then simply placing a slightly bigger piece of aluminum there is a good fix that shouldn't cost too much in either time or money and will look OK. Good luck! Bill

Shame. A good boat or fiberglass place should be able to perform the repair without too much trouble. However, in order to get the repair to disappear you will need to know the exact color of gelcoat that was used and be able to get a very small quantity of it. If this were my Ollie, I'd make sure that once I found the repair place, they were placed into contact with the folks in Oliver Service. There is a good chance that not only will the Service people tell the repair outfit what and how things need to be done in that area, but, they will also be able to sell them a small quantity of the proper color gelcoat. Good luck! Bill

Are you close or are you going to be close to the Mothership? Bill

GJ - I don't know the brand but I do know that Patriot bought something other than the Rock Tamers and has been very happy with them. Perhaps a PM to him might get you some details. Bill Also - I assume that you have previewed a number of posts here on the Forum concerning ways to protect the front of the Ollie during an Alaska trip. One that I liked had to do with using semi-permanent tape to hold on rubber padding. It seemed to do the job while at the same time it was relatively inexpensive and was easily removable.

Congrats to you guys! Glad that things are working out for you and that your health continues to be good. Bill

Really?😁

Probably the one Mike is referring to looks something like THIS ONE. They are easy to use and do a much better job than a simple spray with the garden hose. Bill

Obviously you are still a bit younger versus some of us!😇

I have placed a small number (1-5) on the inside of each of my tire sensors and then coated these numbers with clear nail polish so that the number stays put and does not wear off or come off. I then marked in my TPMS owner's manual which tire went with which numbered sensor. This way it is easy to get the right sensor back on the right tire in the event of removal. Bill p.s. if you'd like a picture of this just let me know.

What Galway Girl said . However, to answer you question - you will probably have to weave around duct work, plumbing work over/under the furnace and Truma (if you have one), but, there aren't any walls other than the outside wall that you would have to deal with. During my build I asked for and got a 12 volt accessory outlet place right below the 120 volt outlet. Anita tried to talk me out of it given that she noted that I could simply use the outlets above the cook top and fish the wires out the window when I needed them. Perhaps I should have listened to her given that I've rarely used that exterior 12 volt outlet. But, it does look better than fishing the wires out the window!🙂 Bill

A PM to Patriot could give you some additional details on this mod and how its been holding up over time. Good luck. Bill

Yet another case of "be careful of what you ask for". WE - "the Oliver customer" were (in general terms) asking for a less complicated, more intuitive solar controller that was not soooooo difficult to learn and/or use and/or abuse. This plus Oliver Service having to deal with those customers that either would not or could not learn the Blue Sky led to Oliver looking for a high quality solution and found it with the Zamp product. Virtually immediately upon the production change there was an outcry from the more techie customers that Oliver had somehow cheated or cheapened the whole system. But, the number of Service complaints went down and generally new owners found the new controller to be way more friendly. Bill

Yep - you're right - the EZ lub hub was not stock on my Ollie and I still have the stock hubs There was no MAGIC in choosing the grease caps other than thinking about what would be easy to replace on the road and what just might last a bit longer - the center rubber plugs basically had nothing to do with the decision other than the lack of a "steel" center just might mean that the side walls and/or the outer rim of the caps would be constructed a bit stronger as compared to a "normal" grease cap. In addition, I felt that the non-rounded edges of these grease caps would allow for easier installation with or without a block of wood - it would be easier to gently tap a hammer around that edge versus doing the same on a more rounded edge. Certainly not "rocket science". Bill

Mossemi is THE GUY you want to talk to regarding mounting bikes up front. Good luck! Bill

THE GUY you want to talk to at length about this is ScubaRx (Steve). I'm sure that he can tell you the good, the bad and the very ugly on this topic. I'd bet that there is no way at all for you to convince Oliver to do this mod for you and/or have virtually any part in doing it. But, what do I know? Good luck! Bill

Dave - In reading the Amazon reviews for the Levelmate Pro, there are several reviews that claim it really "eats through batteries". And there was at least one review that claimed the battery was not held very tightly inside the case. I'd check to make sure that the battery is where it should be. While the battery issue just might also be the cause of the signal loss - you might try moving the Levelmate to a higher location in order to improve the signal strength. Good luck! Bill

"They" could be just "messin" with you🙄. Bill

My bad - that's what I get for being in a hurry. Certainly it was not the gutters that you were talking about. In FrankC's photo above of his gutters it is probably not necessary to extend the gutters down that far on the sides of the windows unless you like them that way. I think that I see that we both got your pics turned around.