topgun2

Southbird - You might want to take a look at THIS THREAD for some help thanks to ScubaRX. Note that this pertains only to older Olivers and their original window shades versus newer Olivers with the pure white shades and different sized windows. Bill

What's that got to do with it?😇 Seriously - any human that I know of isn't going to lift one of these campers all by themselves. Knowing what works and especially knowing the right way to do it pertains to all of us. Besides usually being safer, the right way is also usually the most efficient and easiest way to get a job done correctly too. Bill p.s. besides - these kinds of topics are good to revisit from time to time particularly with more and more people obtaining previously owners Ollies.

While traveling one must do what they have to do to be safe. Much of this discussion involves other actual or potential issues such as where does one have to place a jack (both on the camper and the ground), how much of the trailer is being lifted and how long (time) is the trailer going to be lifted. As many others have done - I've simply used the onboard jacks for changing tires or simple quick lube jobs and as far as I know I've not done any damage to either the frame or the fiberglass. On the other hand - jacking the trailer for extended periods of time or jacking the entire trailer off the ground (versus one wheel at a time) is an entirely different matter and I've never done that in any fashion. Bill

The potential problem with doing this is that the axles just might be dented, bent or otherwise deformed. These axles are not solid material. The basic problem with this is that depending on where the jacks are placed there may be enough torque to "tweak" or bend the frame such that it will either be out of alignment and/or put stress on the fiberglass body. Both these issues (and perhaps more) are reasons why Oliver started identifying the specific jack points on trailers sometime in 2017 or 2018. As with SeaDawg my 2016 Elite II has never had jack points identified. However, I've been told that when/if I need to jack up the camper I should place the jack on the steel subframe as close to the axles as I can. It will be interesting to see what the latest word on this issue is from Service. Bill

OR - try this. Note that the jack points indicated in the video are NOT NECESSARILY applicable to all Elite II's. Early models had a different sub-frame. Bill

I just saw the following notice for late model Ford truck and since a fair number of Oliver owners have this truck it might be of interest: Ford is also recalling 391,836 2021-2022 F-150, 2022 Ford Maverick, Expedition, Lincoln avigator, F-250, F-350, F-450 and F-550 vehicles because a towed trailer equipped with an electric or electric-over hydraulic brake system might not brake. Dealers will update the integrated trailer brake control module software. Ford has 67 reports of improper function potentially related to the issue but no reports of crashes or injuries related to the recall.

Not sure - orientation of the camera when the picture was taken perhaps? Bill

JD - I rotated your pics for you but let me know if they are not in the correct orientation and I will further adjust them. Bill

JD - I rotated your pics for you but am not sure that they now align with your wording and/or are in the proper orientation. Let me know if they need more work. Bill

CB - I camped at Blue Spring for about 15 years in a row while attending "Bike Week" in Daytona. It really is a nice place! However, that's not why I'm answering 😄. I've not had that screen out since last Spring - but - from what I remember you don't remove those clips since (I think) they are what holds the screen in place. As you have already found out - this is not all that easy, either removing or re-inserting. Try positioning the screen as close to its final position as you can, squash the screen and bottom clip into the track and then (either with your finger or something thin and flexible) squash the top spring/clip into the track while pushing the frame of the screen out. Hopefully that will "pop" it back into place. Of course I'm assuming that your screen is like mine and that was not changed when Oliver changed the windows. Good luck! Bill p.s. once it pops back into place you can then "slide" it into its final original position - this is also not that easy but it will go.

P.S. I should have mentioned above: Stay away from the Rand McNally RV GPS. I understand that they have recently stopped supporting their RV GPS units even though they continue to sell them. See THIS Video on YouTube. Bill

Any chance of getting a picture of the famous Emma?

THIS is getting eggcruciating!

John - There are threads here on the Forum about the relatively new Garmin 890 (which I have)(simply type 890 in the search box). In this Garmin - along with several other models related to RV's - they allow you to input the size of the tow vehicle along with the size of the RV. This is then used by the Garmin to determine which roads just might not be suitable for that specific combination. However, they do not ask for things like engine size or even the specific model of tow vehicle. This means that even though your combination just might be the same length as mine, yours might have a smaller engine which would possibly make towing up certain grades a bit more difficult than I would experience. I'm not aware of any GPS device that takes ALL factors into consideration. Having said this - the Garmin does do a good job relative to height restrictions, narrow roads and road grade warnings. I wouldn't be without mine! Bill

If I were in your shoes - I'd call the Sales staff and ask the question about height making sure that they know that you are ready to place an order given the information they might provide. Good luck! Bill

Since you have the composting toilet - instead of using a "regular" RV drain hose you might want to consider getting a drain hose cap like THIS ONE so that you can use a regular garden hose to dump that grey water. A garden hose is easier to store, easier to move around and overall eaiser to deal with as compared to the regular RV sewer hose. Bill

Nice number and interesting name! It won't be long now. Bill

Emma's going to love the Ollie! Hopefully you have been reading all that you can in the Oliver University and here on the Forum. June 15th really is just right around the corner. If the Oliver is your first camper then you might want to take a look at a new YouTube video by "Keep Your Daydream" concerning the "stuff" you will need when first starting to camp (This One). Let us know if we can help you in any way and welcome to the Family! Bill

There are a couple of old sayings concerning discounts: 1. Always give the person a chance to say "no". 2. You never know until you ask. Bill

Nice trip with a fair number of miles and stops. Glad all went well. If you were using that little bubble level that is in the front jack to level the camper, note that it requires readjustment from time to time. This is done by getting the camper level (using another leveling device) and then turning the three screws on top of the front jack in order to get the bubble in the exact center. Bill

Terry - I think this is a great idea. And, I think that your idea of placing a "safety wire" or "securing device" of some sort on the handles is a good idea. The reason for this is that as you drive down the road and hit a bump, there will be some compression and slack created in the chain as the tow vehicle and trailer "bounce" at different times. When the "bounce" creates slack in the chain it might be enough to allow the handle to come loose thus creating undesired slack until you stop for put the handle back in its tight position. Bill

You do realize that this huge black umbilical cord was the connection from "Hal's" eye (TV) to his hidden brain laying elsewhere between the hulls so that we mere mortals can't get to it? 🤔 Bill

Absolutely! I've been using the ones from the bumper for 6 years now. However, the original pool noodles I used on the solar panels gave out after about 4 years. So, I replaced them with a set of larger diameter ones I was able to purchase at the end of the pool season last year for less than 1/2 price. Bill

There could be a ton of reasons for that condensation. In any case I'd take some steps to dramatically reduce it by either getting more air in there (via a fan preferably with a heater) and/or something like DampRid ( Like THIS) or both. There shouldn't be anymore moisture in that area than there is in your "attic" area. And, if you remove the partition on the left side of the attic - easy to do with the removal of one or two bolts - you should be able to get to the back side of those wires fairly easily. This should allow you to pull the excess into the area behind the partition thus hiding them easily. Just to be on the safe side - I'd also give the ends of those connections a good wrapping of electrical tape to prevent them from touching each other and/or getting dirt, water or other stuff on them. Once you are done there, it is simple to put that partition back in place with the one or two bolts. However, before I replaced mine I put extra insulation in any areas that I could reach using spray glue (like THIS) making sure to use insulation that would repel water. Bill

Hopefully someone that has one of these can give you complete directions. In the meantime - I know that on my "simple" microwave from 2016 there is a flange at the top middle of the microwave that was bolted into the cabinet. This was/is the main source of support with the outer trim piece and its four screws only being for looks and the support of that face plate. Assuming that your microwave is attached in a similar manner it is no surprise that you can't get it out. I'd give a call to Service on Monday unless someone here can give you detailed instructions. Bill