HOW TO: VIP 3000 Electric Stabilizer Jack Service

[John E Davies]

EDIT 04/14/22: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6781-how-to-service-your-rear-electric-jacks/

I have never opened up a jack, they are all starting to get a  little loud so I decided to service the front one. I don't remember them being this loud when new: .... 

Oliver Tongue Jack Operating Sound

Here is the manufacturer page: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Stabilizing_Jacks/vip3000_Electric_Jack_Manual.pdf

The rear jacks are similar to the tongue jack, except they do not have the plastic cover with light and switches.

For the tongue jack only, can open up the gearbox area without removing the head, but you are supposed to lube the drive pin where it connects to the vertical tube, so you might as well unbolt the top and take it to a workbench.

Unplug the 30 amp slo-blow fuse inside the waterproof holder. Cut any tie wraps. This is the 12 volt power wire, the ground happens through the jack body and trailer frame. NOTE: there is another fuse in back under the street side bed, I am not sure why there are two fuses. Can anyone comment?

Use an Allen wrench and unscrew the three countersunk set screws a couple of turns - they are spaced along the base of the head unit.

Lift the head off and set it aside. Here is the drive coupling down inside the tube, with the factory lube. It looks fine.

Here is the head socket, showing the pin that fits down into that coupling:

FYI it is possible to drive the pin out. There is a 1/4" access hole in the side of the cavity. I did not want to disturb it, for fear of damaging the plastic bearing support behind  to it.

You need to get some slack in the wires so you can slide the cover assembly out of the way. Remove the rubber boot/ nut that holds the Up/ Down switch into the cover, pull it in and let it dangle:

Remove the yellow ground wire and pry out the rubber grommet that contains the three wires. Slide it up toward the switches. This will allow the gearbox cover to slide upwards. Remove the other three bolts.

CAREFULLY wiggle the lid and pull it off.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

Here is the inside lower part. The grease is not contaminated by water entry, but it has completely vanished from the gear teeth where it is most needed.

This is the top portion. There is not nearly enough grease around the main shaft bearing, water could enter here. Note the black streaks and speckles. That is metal contamination from the gears.:

The grease is so thick that it will support a small screwdriver:

Because the grease looked so bad I decided to remove as much as I could rather than just adding more.... I wiped out most of it with paper towels, then used brake cleaner to flush the rest. I was careful not to get any down into the motor. I blew the parts dry with compressed air. The plastic parts do not appear to have been affected by the solvent. I was sure to get as much out around the lower drive shaft as possible, I did not remove the cross pin.

I tried to work around the gasket but it tore:

I moved the gearbox to my bench vise to hold it steady for reassembly:

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 25, 2020 by John E Davies

[John E Davies]

I used Redline CV-2 grease. It should flow better than the thick OEM glop. This big syringe made it easy to inject grease where I wanted it.

EDIT: Redline CV-2 Magic Grease

Big syringe

Fill up the lower case. Be sure to get grease under the big driven gear:

Fully surround the two upper bearings. There is no need to fill the entire upper cavity.

 

I added a small amount of black silicone RTV sealer to the torn area of the gasket. Reassemble the gearbox.

Clean the old grease from the slotted coupler and add some new:

Reinstall the head unit to the tube. Make sure the pin engages the slot! Secure the three Allen screws, connect the wire and secure it with black nylon ties.

Function check the jack. I was disappointed to discover that there was no change in the sound. level..... darn it.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by John E Davies

[John E Davies]

I wanted to try a new lubricant on the vertical sliding tubes. Oliver Service uses a plain lithium grease. I wanted something that would not attract dust and turn into grinding compound. I tried this specialty lubricant:

CRC Forklift Inner Slide Lubricant

I extended the tube, took off the foot and degreased it. I used the spray tube to inject some lube up into the joint between the two parts. I then sprayed the visible part:

I have to say that it was not what I expected, it is quite thick and gloppy. I will see how it does after waiting overnight. If it remains sticky I may try a dry Moly lube.

I will report back on how it does, or does not ;(

EDIT, after 24 hrs the fork lift rail lube is still a nasty gooey mess. I was under the impression that it would dry, but it is way too gross for a place where an owner might get it on his hands or clothing. I am going to flush it all away with solvent. I think I will just leave the tubes dry.

John Davies

Spokane WW

Edited April 26, 2020 by John E Davies

[Mike and Carol]

That does look a bit different.  Will be interested in what you find tomorrow.  Good info.  Mike

[Overland]

Does the tube really need greasing at all?  Apart from maybe a coat of oil to keep it from rusting, I don’t see that it really gets much wear. 

[John E Davies]

1 minute ago, Overland said:

Does the tube really need greasing at all?  Apart from maybe a coat of oil to keep it from rusting, I don’t see that it really gets much wear. 

I can't answer that, Jason told me that the service department uses white grease on it. Sometimes it gets a pretty heavy side load, I think it would benefit from something slippery between the two sleeves. There is a lot of chatter about this on RV forums but nobody seems to have discovered a wonder lubricant.

Maybe dry is best....

John Davies

Spokane WA

[DavidS]

Thank you! This is awesome!

You have a gift for accurate technical writing and precise documentation. This will be big help to a bunch of us. Thanks again. 

[BackofBeyond]

JD, I always appreciate your write-ups. I have hesitated to apply any lube to the  lower down tube due to  possibility of debris build up. It seems to me, a clean dry surface represents a less risky measure - especially given the location. That and it doesn't seem to need lube for decent operation, as Overland has mentioned.  Your thoughts?

[Landrover]

Jason  Oliver service just made a service video on this subject. Didn’t indicate lubing the tube?

[John E Davies]

I don’t know what more I can add. The fact that these jacks come from the manufacturer with grease on the tubes indicates to me that some sort of lube is needed. They do sometimes have a severe side load if your are parked on a slope. I would use an industrial dry lube (spray moly) but that was my very last resort, it is extremely messy and any overspray drifting onto the frame or gelcoat might be hard to get off. I use a similar product (Lock-Eze) on locks and it is truly messy and stains your hands very badly...

I have not yet checked that glop I sprayed on, I will do so soon and report back.

EDIT, after 24 hrs the fork lift rail lube is still a nasty gooey mess. I was under the impression that it would dry, but it is way too gross for a place where an owner might get it on his hands or clothing. I am going to flush it all away with solvent. I think I will just leave the tubes dry.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 26, 2020 by John E Davies

[John E Davies]

23 hours ago, Landrover said:

Jason  Oliver service just made a service video on this subject. Didn’t indicate lubing the tube?

I can’t find that, can you please post a link?

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Overland]

 

[John E Davies]

That video ifs OK but he didn't add any grease inside, nor did he even poke it to see if it was congealed like mine was. His was definitely all gone from the teeth. Hardened grease does not flow, so the teeth on the gears stay dry. A more fluid grease will actually get picked up by the moving gear wheels and get "dragged" around, not just stay packed to one side.... I have no idea if my grease got hard through time, or if it was that way when the jack was built. If somebody wants to open up a brand new jack for a look, please post a description about how the grease looks...

John Davies

Spokane WA

[mountainoliver]

John, I took all three of my jacks apart about six months after I purchased our 2017 LEII. I took mine apart because one jack was (is) very loud running in either direction. The grease used in the gearboxes in mine is a white lithium type. I didn’t think there was quite enough used so, I ordered a can of white lithium and added much more. What was factory installed was soft but just skimpy IMHO. The extra grease sadly didn’t change the sound so I’m no longer concerned that the gears may be running dry. 

[The Shackelfords]

What about WD-40 dry lubricant for the lower tube. I'd probably extend it as high as I could and give it a few shots of this. It sprays on wet and then leaves a dry coat so dust and dirt doesn't build up to bad. It works pretty good as an all purpose anti corrosion spray as well for other things. I use it on my motorcycle cables, shed hinges, and garage door tracks. 

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Spray-Sprays/dp/B084VP46MX

 

[John E Davies]

16 minutes ago, The Shackelfords said:

What about WD-40 dry lubricant for the lower tube. I'd probably extend it as high as I could and give it a few shots of this. It sprays on wet and then leaves a dry coat so dust and dirt doesn't build up to bad. It works pretty good as an all purpose anti corrosion spray as well for other things. I use it on my motorcycle cables, shed hinges, and garage door tracks. 

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Spray-Sprays/dp/B084VP46MX

 

Any of those teflon (PTFE) sprays would probably be OK, some RV owners swear by them. But the white particles do not really bond to the steel, they tend to flake off and fall away under any real side force. I have not personally tried this type, but their big advantage is they are not very messy, unlike the black moly lubes which are pretty nasty.

Why don't you try that product and report back? Be sure to degrease the tubes first, I don't think it will mix with the existing grease.

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[The Shackelfords]

I'll certainly give a shot and let you know how it works out. 

[Geronimo John]

Wow John, you read my mind  I had been looking for the service procedure and was not having any luck. 

thanks for taking the time to post this wonderful "How To"!

 

[Geronimo John]

On 4/24/2020 at 4:07 PM, John E Davies said:

 

I agree with The Shackelfords that the WD-40  Specialist Dry Lube PTFE Spray would be a good selection.  I found it at Home Depot in a large 10 OZ can for less than $7.  This lube is dust and dirt resistant.  It is my go to lube for bike chains, table saws and other equipment that tends to gather gunk when in use.  

Edited May 10, 2020 by Geronimo John

[Daecart]

Hi All, 

I was greasing the jacks but for the life of me I can't get the Allen screws off the rear jacks. The front one was no problem. The back ones won't budge. Did anyone have this problem and what did you do to loosen them?

Thanks

Dae

[John E Davies]

Penetrating oil. I love PB Blaster, it has worked great for me for a looooog time.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

Any auto parts store will have it. Let it soak half an hour and I bet they will come out. If not, insert the Allen wrench and tap on it with a small hammer to shock the threads. Some silver (aluminum based) anti-seize on the threads will prevent future problems.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[BackofBeyond]

PB Is good stuff - I had a swingarm that just laughed at IT however.....but the saw eventually won... 

 

Edited June 1, 2020 by BackofBeyond

[SeaDawg]

We also have a small collection of PB products in the garage. They are, overall, pretty great products.  

Sherry

[Daecart]

Thanks, John. I went out of got some PB Blaster. I also dropped Jason from OTT a note to see if had any tips. 

In case anyone comes to this tread having the same issue as I did, I wanted to add Jason's comments for information. Im not sure which tip worked more (John or Jason) but eventually one helped to loosen it. Thought it was still very difficult (it took two hours to do the two back jacks!!)

Anyway, Jason said that some of the guys use Red Loctite when closing those Allen screws. So the only thing that will loosen the loctite is heat. He said put a flame around it for a short time.  I did that, I also heated the allen key and left it in the screw to help things along.

But I got there eventually by using both the PB Blaster and the flame. 

Thanks again to Jason and John!

Edited June 5, 2020 by Daecart
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