Upgraded Shower and Bathroom Access Hatch

[AlbertNTerri]

14 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

We used the same one that @topgun2 refers to:

 

The "O-ring" keeps paper goods nice and dry inside when the wet-head is being used as a shower...

Here's a pic of our install/mod:

Cheers!

 

How do you like having the door swinging in that direction? Do you think it would be more convenient if it swung the other way? It's one of my future projects that I'm planning for. I really like the way you cleaned up the inside of the vanity, I hope mine turns out as nice.

 

a. 

[theOrca]

On 8/3/2023 at 6:27 PM, rich.dev said:

@mountainoliver @NCeagle I absolutely love what you guys did here and want to do same, however, I cannot find this shower faucet mixer/diverter anywhere! Where did you buy it?

Search for "scanvik mixer" assembly.

[SeaDawg]

Scandvik catalog link. The one in above photo is likely the first, upper left.

Our now 16 year old scandvik faucets in our trailer are still going strong, as are the 15 year old replacements we put in the boat. I like their quality.

Good luck.

https://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_Category&catID=325

Edited March 23 by SeaDawg

[rideadeuce]

After looking at depth in previous installs of hatch door and obstacles this is probably not a viable solution for storage. (below)

 

 

 

 

Edited June 3 by rideadeuce

[rideadeuce]

This one is made more for storage but the box is not removable but I still think I would rather have this than just an access door. How often do you need to get to the plumbing?

My main problem with using the OEM shelf is the ability to get bottles in and out... it is just not very user friendly. 

They make custom sizes and configurations... maybe one could cut out the box to fit around sink drainage pipe.

https://www.deepbluemarine.com/products-detail.cfm?ProductID=504

 

Mike

 a

Edited June 4 by rideadeuce

[Going]

On 12/30/2020 at 8:14 AM, NCeagle said:

And now with the same shower mixer as Mountainoliver...

Mountainoliver, the check's in the mail!  But... I don't know how to get anything delivered by the post office these days.  😉  

So glad I didn't have to rip the caddy out again - sure made this addition easy!

Thanks for this thread.  I am getting ready to do this mod using the High Sierra head partially because it looks very "angle" versatile so it can be pointed downward at a greater angle then others and because this seems to be a quality head.  What GPM did you get?  1.25, 1.5, 1.8 or 2.  Just curious and if you are still satisfied?  Also, did the head fit into the existing mount/hanger ok?  I am also installing the Marine hatch and this control:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTQDRF36?smid=A1ACPRXA78MXSS&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

 

Edited June 6 by Going

[Steve Morris]

A huge thanks to Mike for letting me photograph his bathroom plumbing upgrade back during the rally in May, and for sending details on the connections and hardware. I’ve had the Scandvik and High Sierra components for months, but just now getting to that project. 
 

I’ve mocked up the system for location, and I just need to collect the fittings to tie it all together.

 

 

And drill those big holes! Have I read that a diamond grit tipped saw is best for fiberglass? Or is a fine toothed carbide tip a better choice?

Thanks @mossemi!!

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, Steve Morris said:

I’ve mocked up the system for location, and I just need to collect the fittings to tie it all together.

I'll bet that you actually read instructions too!😁

[Steve Morris]

52 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

I'll bet that you actually read instructions too!😁

Only after trying something the way I think it should function, three or four times over, and it still doesn't work! 😜

Mike did all the hard work. I'm just copying his.

Edited October 22 by Steve Morris

[mossemi]

6 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

And drill those big holes! Have I read that a diamond grit tipped saw is best for fiberglass? Or is a fine toothed carbide tip a better choice?

I used Milwaukee multi material hole saws and drilled slow and steady in reverse.  I did all of the layout on blue tape over the fiberglass and used new hole saws.  If you are really uncomfortable drilling the holes, call Oliver service and request some scrap fiberglass pieces to practice with or find a place in the Ollie you would like to place an air vent and practice in a location that is less visible.  Maybe an air vent in the wall between the toilet and the basement area below the front dinette.

Mossey

[Coastal Aggie]

On 3/20/2024 at 9:53 PM, AlbertNTerri said:

How do you like having the door swinging in that direction? Do you think it would be more convenient if it swung the other way?

I just did the same hatch install in mine a couple weeks ago but with it facing the other direction. (Hinge away from toilet) The only issue with doing it that way is if you have a squatty potty or similar stool as I do you have to move it out of the way to open the door but I really like the ability to open it and reach my extra toilet paper if needed while still seated.

[Steve Morris]

No going back now!

@mossemi Did you use crimp on PEX fittings for the "T" into the fresh water fill for the return line, or a SharkBite "T"? I've never messed with PEX before, and I know some people don't trust SharBite fittings in trailers. So I'm  not sure which one I'm likely to have not leak...

I'd be further along if the weather was better, and if I hadn't wasted a bunch of time on other stuff. For instance, I spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my EMS wasn't working. I pulled the cover, and there was only 40V AC coming it. I figured I had a bad connection in the external port like I've seen with others, and it was fine. Couldn't be the incoming line, because the light is on on the power cord. Turns out it was getting electricity, but not much. 20 months of having the garage door shut on my 14 gauge extension cord must have cut enough wires it was barely feeding power. And I was running a space heater on that just last week! 😲 Now there is a 12 gauge extension cord going through a notch cut in the bottom of the garage door seal. No more pinching..

And while it was warm enough, I painted and installed the courtesy light deflectors that @Ollie-Haus showed me at a small fiberglass rally here in Ohio in September. I think I'll still add some amber film to tone the light down some more.

And, I wasted a couple hours trying to find a flush-mount outdoor rated 110V AC outlet to insert into the panel under the side table, where the propane fridge lower vent was located on older trailers. No such thing! And I really didn't need to do that now, with other stuff needing done before winterizing and then getting ready to go to Florida in January

I'm usually good about scheduling my time, but not lately.

Edited November 9 by Steve Morris

[topgun2]

14 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

I know some people don't trust SharBite fittings in trailers. So I'm  not sure which one I'm likely to have not leak...

I've never had a problem with the single sharkbite fitting I put into my Ollie.  I made sure to secure the fitting and pipes near it very well so that it does not move.  I still carry a few spares (sharkbite straight and 90 degree fittings) with me in case I need to do a repair while on the road.  However, if doing a pex repair of mod at home I use a crimp.

Bill

[Steve Morris]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

I've never had a problem with the single sharkbite fitting I put into my Ollie.  I made sure to secure the fitting and pipes near it very well so that it does not move.  I still carry a few spares (sharkbite straight and 90 degree fittings) with me in case I need to do a repair while on the road.  However, if doing a pex repair of mod at home I use a crimp.

Bill

Thanks, Bill. I don't have any PEX in our house, so I had no need to learn, nor buy a crimper. I'll get the SharkBite "T", and a couple spare straights and elbows. I appreciate the reply.

[Steve Morris]

Installed, and loosely plumbed. The fittings on the end of the PEX that connect to the threaded “T” have questionable washers. So I’m getting more tomorrow.

Next I’m going to run a PEX line from the diverter (top) back to the fresh water inlet, and add a SharkBite “T” to recirculate the hot until it actually gets hot.

Then test the whole thing under pressure. I don’t want to get to Florida in January and find out I did something wrong! 

 

[Steve Morris]

Everything is now plumbed under the bathroom sink, and pressure tested except the recirculate loop. I have the PEX recirculate line installed from under the the sink back to under the basement floor. But haven't cut into the fresh water fill line to install the "T" yet. I ran out of time today.

So far, 17 new connections, and zero links first try. I did end up getting a PEX crimper, and replaced the PEX to 1/2 NPS firing that connects to the original faucet lines. As noted previously, the washers were buggered, so I got new brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. In the back, I'll use a SharkBite "T" due to limited space.

 

The circled gizmo in the photo below is the back flow preventer, correct? @mossemi said to place the "T" after that, and I want to make sure what's what before making a cut!

 

The only trouble I've run into is that two of the screws that held the basement floor in place had the Phillips head stripped from the factory. I dug out the oscillating tool and zapped them off.

If the weather holds, I should be done and pressure tested again tomorrow. I've already drained the water heater, so I'll find out in Florida how well it works not having to waste water down the gray tank until it gets hot. Then it's time to winterize. We're supposed to get temps in the low 30°s later this week.

[mossemi]

16 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

The circled gizmo in the photo below is the back flow preventer, correct? @mossemi said to place the "T" after that, and I want to make sure what's what before making a cut!

It’s more commonly referred to as a check valve.  It is a one way valve that only allows water to flow in one direction.  There is one in the city water connection pipe and another fresh water tank fill pipe.  The recirculation activity should be going back to the fresh water tank.

Mossey

 

[Steve Morris]

Done and tested at pressure! We now have separate bathroom sink faucet and shower mixers, and a recirculation system to send hot water that's not hot yet back to the fresh tank. Once the actual hot water is at the diverter, twist the handle and we'll have a hot shower with zero wasted water! Right now, the whole system is at pressure overnight to check for any seepage, and then I'll button things up, drain everything, and winterize.

A huge thanks to those who have done this modification before, and especially Mike @mossemi for answering questions, showing me how his system worked, where I took several photos, and for diagrams and a shopping list of very high quality fixtures.

All told, including buying specialty tools, quality carbide hole saws, more PEX than I'll ever use, etc., this project totals right at $1000. Could it be done for a lot less? Absolutely! But the result is an absolutely elegant system that will last as long as the trailer.

Mike, stop by in May April at the rally for a generous pour of whatever's in the cabinet. Thank you!

 

Edited November 12 by Steve Morris

[jd1923]

Nice work @Steve Morris!

Anybody ever change the countertop and sink bowl? I would like the counter to be 3-4” deeper and have a sink bowl, also just deeper front to back, that a man could splash water in his face without it dripping down the front of the vanity!

A deeper sink must just barely fit into the OEM base to be feasible.

The toilet and shower space is well designed, not so the sink. Thank you!

[rich.dev]

Very nice work Steve! 👏 

3 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

and a recirculation system to send hot water that's not hot yet back to the fresh tank. Once the actual hot water is at the diverter, twist the handle and we'll have a hot shower with zero wasted water!

I’m am very intrigued by this mod, from what I can tell all you did was add a pex line back from the hot water line under the sink and Td it into the fresh water inlet under the basement floor? I have been looking at possibly installing a showermiser, but sounds like your recirculating system might be an easier install. Is it the diverter at the top that controls the flow back to the fresh water tank/or faucet when you have hot water at the diverter, how do you know when the water is hot at the diverter, do you have a link for the diverter? 

[Steve Morris]

12 hours ago, rich.dev said:

I’m am very intrigued by this mod, from what I can tell all you did was add a pex line back from the hot water line under the sink and Td it into the fresh water inlet under the basement floor? I have been looking at possibly installing a showermiser, but sounds like your recirculating system might be an easier install. Is it the diverter at the top that controls the flow back to the fresh water tank/or faucet when you have hot water at the diverter, how do you know when the water is hot at the diverter, do you have a link for the diverter? 

Exactly! I intercepted the hot water line under the sink, and sent it to the diverter instead of the faucet. One outlet on the diverter then went to a "T", in turn going to the faucet and shower mixer. The other outlet went back to the fresh water fill, into a "T" placed just after the check valve.

I briefly thought of adding some sort of temp sensor inline with the recirculation line, but instead, I'll just run it for 10-15 seconds until I get a feel for how long it typically takes to get hot water to the tap.

Attached is Mike's flow chart for the system. He and I use a Scandvik SCA10623 single lever mixing valve without on/off feature for the diverter. Here's the link where I bought all my fixtures. I have mine oriented so that pointing up goes to the faucet and shower, and down goes back to the fresh water tank.

https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/SCA10623.html

 

dog house bath remodel.pdf

Edited November 13 by Steve Morris

[Mike and Carol]

On 11/12/2024 at 11:27 AM, mossemi said:

It’s more commonly referred to as a check valve.  It is a one way valve that only allows water to flow in one direction.  There is one in the city water connection pipe and another fresh water tank fill pipe.  The recirculation activity should be going back to the fresh water tank.

There is also one going into the black tank flush.

[mossemi]

@jd1923  This link may be of interest.

Mossey