Upgraded Shower and Bathroom Access Hatch

[mossemi]

6 hours ago, Jps190 said:

So I just got the separate shower valves and a new shower head to do this mod. Can someone tell me what I am going to find when I take the towel rack/cubby out of the vanity.  I am assuming just 2 pex lines (hot and cold) with a valve going to a 1/2 inch NPT with supply lines to the faucet as pictured above. I am planning on adding a T to those vales and hopefully that will be it.  These will be the first big holes I have put in the fiberglass.  What is the preferred method for doing this.  I was going to use a hole saw on my drill.  Any other techniques or gotchas to be aware of. 

This photo shows the stock LE2 bath plumbing that matches my 2017.  The red and blue PEX lines exiting the right side of the photo go to the faucet/shower fixture.  The blue PEX exiting the left side is the toilet supply as the text in the photo SNY SD UP posted indicates.

Mossey

 

[mossemi]

7 hours ago, Jps190 said:

These will be the first big holes I have put in the fiberglass.  What is the preferred method for doing this.  I was going to use a hole saw on my drill.

I covered the area to be drilled with blue masking tape.  Then I did my layout on the masking tape and then used a hole saw and drilled in reverse.  Worked pretty good with new drill bits.

Mossey

[Jps190]

Thanks for the info guys.  I measured the towel rack that is currently in the cutout and the outside dimensions are 19x13.  Did y'all have to enlarge that hole to install the hatch.  I assume everyone has used that 12x24 in hatch that was posted in another thread.

 

John

[John E Davies]

On 12/30/2020 at 5:14 AM, NCeagle said:

 

After 18 months, how does the gelcoat look where the shower hose chafes? Do you think that a couple of small retainer clips would prevent that? Or else a quick detach coupling so you can store it away when not needed? 

https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Adapter-Attachment-Bathtub-Bathroom/dp/B08HNHNWKT/ref=sr_1_10?crid=LHVFB0NA6J84&keywords=quick+release+coupler+for+handheld+shower+hose&qid=1656436063&sprefix=quick+release+coupler+for+hand+held+shower+hose%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-10

Thanks,

John Davies

Spokane WA

[mossemi]

4 hours ago, Jps190 said:

Thanks for the info guys.  I measured the towel rack that is currently in the cutout and the outside dimensions are 19x13.  Did y'all have to enlarge that hole to install the hatch.  I assume everyone has used that 12x24 in hatch that was posted in another thread.

 

John

My Seaflo hatch was listed as 12x24".  My existing hole was wide enough but not tall enough. So I enlarged the hole with a multi tool.  I also used nuts and bolts to attach it.  The curve of the vanity face required careful tightening of the hatch.  I constantly checked the latch’s operation as I tightened the hardware.  The sides will have a little more gap than the top and bottom and that’s why I used the butyl tape, which has a little more body than silicone caulk.

Mossey

[mossemi]

7 hours ago, John E Davies said:

After 18 months, how does the gelcoat look where the shower hose chafes? Do you think that a couple of small retainer clips would prevent that? Or else a quick detach coupling so you can store it away when not needed? 

I only have a few months and about 1500 miles with a hanging shower head, so for me it’s just an excuse to use another noodle.

Mossey

[NCeagle]

18 hours ago, Jps190 said:

Thanks for the info guys.  I measured the towel rack that is currently in the cutout and the outside dimensions are 19x13.  Did y'all have to enlarge that hole to install the hatch.  I assume everyone has used that 12x24 in hatch that was posted in another thread.

 

John

The hatch I used was 14" x 24" and fit perfectly width-wise as the inside cutout required was 13".  I also had to enlarge the height of the opening and removed a few inches from the bottom (protected area I was cutting with masking tape) just as @mossemidid.

[NCeagle]

10 hours ago, mossemi said:

I only have a few months and about 1500 miles with a hanging shower head, so for me it’s just an excuse to use another noodle.

Mossey

@John E Davies, I used plastic retainer clips for a while but the vhb tape on them didn't hold for very long on the shiny, waxed gelcoat.  I've also been using a noodle for about a year now!  I do want to put on some semi-permanent clips eventually - for looks, functionality and convenience.  I have to find some decent stainless clips and I'll try 3M 4000 adhesive/sealant.  Either way, "Secure the shower hose" has always been on our pre-departure checklist.  🙂 

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, NCeagle said:

Either way, "Secure the shower hose" has always been on our pre-departure checklist. 

Sure am glad about that - given the "camo green" color of the pool noodle I'm sure you could miss it.😁

[Sofaman]

Where you find the shower curtain rod and what is securing the fabric to the counter?

Thanks

[jdmmtx]

Nicely done. As a side note, we are using what look to be the same plastic clips to hold our shower curtain in place while showering and I love those things!!

[Trainman]

Nice upgrade in the bath, the four screws to remove the factory excess cover are really not that hard to do, plus the need to get in that area is not needed that much, but nice job. 

trainman

[CnC]

On 6/27/2022 at 1:15 PM, Jps190 said:

Any other techniques or gotchas to be aware of. 

Consider taping the gel coat surface in the area of cutting.

Charlie.

[rich.dev]

@mountainoliver @NCeagle I absolutely love what you guys did here and want to do same, however, I cannot find this shower faucet mixer/diverter anywhere! Where did you buy it?

[MAX Burner]

FYI:  Our's came from Scandvik on Amazon:

Edited August 4 by MAX Burner
added a photo....

[rich.dev]

25 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:

FYI:  Our's came from Scandvik on Amazon:

You’re a star….thanks!😊

[mountainoliver]

My valves are Shurflo brand (Trinidad style) the same manufacturer as our water pump. These are very similar to the Scandvik brand if not identical. I actually did not buy the valves because I had the Oliver folks do the modifications before we took delivery of our trailer in 2017. I would imagine that we could buy direct from the Shurflo folks. Also, we don’t leave the shower head hanging while traveling. We wrap the shower head in a towel and then lay it on the floor. 

[Going]

On 12/30/2020 at 8:14 AM, NCeagle said:

And now with the same shower mixer as Mountainoliver...

Mountainoliver, the check's in the mail!  But... I don't know how to get anything delivered by the post office these days.  😉  

So glad I didn't have to rip the caddy out again - sure made this addition easy!

Seadawg and Mountainoliver, I am following after your footsteps here first in installing the Marine hatch and second in replacing the shower system. I really like the design.  But I can not see the diverter in these pictures. I only see the hot and cold valves where the shower hose connects.  W/hat am I missing? Besides glasses.  

[topgun2]

16 minutes ago, Going said:

 But I can not see the diverter in these pictures. I only see the hot and cold valves where the shower hose connects.  W/hat am I missing?

I think/thought that the sink faucet and the shower faucet were on "separate supply lines" - therefore, no diverter is necessary.  Of course, there is a "shut-off" valve at the top of the shower head that can be seen in the photo for temporarily shutting off the water flow while taking "Navy" showers.  But, assuming that the additional faucets that are shown on the front of the bath vanity have been plumbed by tapping into the supply lines that supply the sink faucets then no diverter would be necessary.

Bill 

[mountainoliver]

There is no diverter valve used. The shower valve is tee’d into the main hot and cold lines under the vanity just before the sink valve. So basically one set of supply lines (hot and cold) and two independent sets of control valves.