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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2019 in all areas

  1. Since I was taking some inside photos today, I thought I'd snap a few to add to this thread. Plus I'll add some that I've posted in other threads recently. Here's how we organize all our drawers: Top right, we use an expandable cultery tray from OXO - I cut out some pieces of a stiff felt liner from Ikea to put in each of the compartments, which cushions the utensils and helps keep the tray from getting marred - In the middle two and bottom left, we use a different OXO tray, with the same felt lining as above - Then on the bottom right, we keep two cutting boards, place mats, coasters, towels, etc., so no need for any organizer - For the nightstand drawer, I used the excellent trick that Bill came up with. But instead of the aluminum angle, I added some adjustable shelf pegs to the drawer, and then stuck some thick felt on the sides of the insert to both center it and keep it from sliding around. Then I placed a similar 10 x 16 tray in the bottom, also with some felt pads to keep it in place. Man, now I know where all the lip balm and sharpies end up. I added two wire organizers to the pantry door (glued some 1 x 2 PVC to the door to give some extra depth and something to screw to.). Unfortunately I can't find these exact items on Amazon now to link to - We added storage nets galore, and these are incredibly handy - In the pantry, I added a stainless plate from Amazon, to which I attached a small box from Ikea (discontinued) to use as a spice shelf. (The box slides under the pantry shelf when closed to keep the contents from bouncing out.). A bungee across the very top on the inside holds a folding drying mat perfectly. The boxes are Sterilite Clip Boxes, medium and small, which you can get on Amazon or at Target. They're the best fitting that I've found so far. On our last trip, I had trouble finding stuff to fill them. The light in the pantry is a Luminoodle Click. By the way, I buy bungee stuff from www.hookandcord.com. I asked for the cabinet instead of the microwave/convection oven, and we keep a toaster oven there, plus I made a shelf for plates and bowls - Some hooks by the door are always handy - As are some flashlights - Over the kitchen, I found these boxes for glassware, mini bar, etc. They're another discontinued item, but if you want to find something similar, they're 6.25"w x 11.5"d x 5"h. We keep out the two or three pans from our Magma set that we use all the time, while the rest stays in their storage bag. I lined the back of all our upper cabinets with the same stiff felt from Ikea that I used on the drawers (they had them on closeout sale, so I bought them out.) Like with the drawers, it keeps things from marring the fiberglass, plus I think it looks a lot better - The bath cabinet stays stuffed, but these boxes from Ikea help to keep it somewhat organized. I covered the back of the door with black vinyl to protect the mirrored surface - In the back of the attic, I put another storage net to hold books in place, and then in front of that, we keep camp chairs and other small items that get unloaded at the camp site. The rest is filled with electronics. -
    3 points
  2. I've had both the Equalizer and (presently) the Andersen. Hands down the Andersen is the better system. Both re-distribute weight and both provide a measure of sway control - not that this feature is really needed with the Oliver. My Andersen is absolutely silent versus the Equalizer that simply can not be made to be silent without putting grease on the bars which basically defeats the anti-sway function. The Andersen (via those red bushings) provides some "shock absorbsion" or dampening where the Equalizer actually adds to this problem given the design of the "spring" bars. Finally, the Andersen (in my opinion) looks way cooler and (once you figure it out or really pay attention to the youtube vids) the Andersen is easier to use. I have alsolutely no regrets with the Andersen.While I never tried to fit the Equalizer on the Oliver, I've always been told that t would not work without some modification of the fiberglass. Bill
    3 points
  3. I tried every way to not get the Anderson, but the forum people convinced me it was a good hitch and so I went with it, now that I have it, I like it and would recommend it, I guess I should say, they were right. trainman
    2 points
  4. We had the older Anderson hitch and had some noise from the sleeve. Spoke to Anderson and they sent me a new ball and sleeve at no charge. Not a single problem with the new hitch plus great service from Anderson. Mike
    2 points
  5. My only issue with the Andersen was a few months of groaning in wet weather during slow turns. It’s been a couple of years with the new sleeve and no issues since. I think it’s a pretty good fit for my Oliver. Mike
    2 points
  6. An interesting thing happened at nearly 10,000 feet elevation, cold, wet and drizzling... I spotted an Elite II Oliver southeast of Ouray, Colorado, just off of Highway 550. (Highway 550 to Ouray and keep going south is the ULTIMATE towing experience. Up the Pass or, down.) Bill and Bev were the perfect hosts when a stranger asked through a window if... 'can I look at the exterior of your Oliver'? A voice within said... "sure". After owning and Boondocking with a 23 foot and a 25 foot Airstream over 13 years, one becomes interested in what other trailers are out there that are comfortable, durable and capable of Off the Grid Boondocking. Nancy and I sold our 25 foot Airstream about six months ago and went back to tent camping. Much like going from tent to a trailer was drastic. Going from trailer to tent camping... well, is even more drastic, but we can manage about anything. Was I... impressed. The physical Oliver is even nicer than any photographs. The sleek fit of interior components. The lighting. The very solid flooring. The counter tops. The thought that designed the exterior, suspension, 16" tires, leaf springs... This was the start. Beverly gave my wife the tour of the interior as Bill and I chatted about how each of us felt about our trailers. Bill had fewer issues with the Oliver. Lets leave it at that. For a couple and a dog or two... the Elite II contained everything one would need for an Off the Grid comfort while Boondocking. The double Solar Panels and four marine batteries were... a big bonus as an option. The one 'glaring' issue for Nancy and I were the sliding drawers. Beautiful durable finish, dove tailed, easy glide self closing BUT, like the Airstreams... no secure way to prevent them from opening when rocking side to side. We had to improvise how to secure the Airstreams hinges and drawers ourselves as nothing exists. Although the Oliver has very few drawers... just a button to push to release and pull out would make the interior perfect and secure. The 'piano hinges' were great for larger doors as standard. There could be some changes, how I do not really know at the present, the shower/stool arrangement. Space is at a premium which makes the Oliver unique. Nancy and I showered... often... with the exterior shower. We also had a small shower tent in areas where more than the bear and the antelope are our only neighbors. Those sliding windows... great and double pane. I would not be surprised that Olivers will come in more than... white. Much like Corvettes and Shelby Cobras. A few days camped in an Oliver would provide us with more to comment... but I am sure Bill and Bev would not enjoy sleeping in our Tent for a couple days! No argument there. A wonderful trailer. Wonderful owners. An impressed experienced trailer owner looking over an Oliver. My comparison. Oliver's are the Pearl of travel trailers. Airstreams's are the Platinum. Both occupy #1 OR #2 in the travel trailer hierarchy. Time will tell from happy owners. If I were in the market for a travel trailer for Off the Grid Boondocking or comfortable RV Park experiences... the Oliver II would be getting that second look, after owning the only other travel trailer able to compete for which is best. One has the edge and Bill and I know which...
    1 point
  7. Maybe this post will answer your questions about the Andersen WD hitch. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/hooking-up-and-unhooking-the-anderson/#post-181476 Mike
    1 point
  8. If there is an Oliver rumor out there Steve has either started it or ended it.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. My words appear to be 'kind', but are the honest opinion of a travel trailer owner. Had my opinion been less than honest about my observations of the Oliver II, I would have mentioned them. But... you and I agree. It is just a matter tweaking an excellent trailer. Time will be the judge. One name that came up in our discussions was John E. Davis. I recall. He is the gadfly that gets Oliver Owners to think. Often, most owners prefer to talk about issues, and few want to step forward and present issues in a way that improvements can and possibly be made. Good to hear that others on the Forum have also brought up the issue of non locking drawers. That was the only issue we found that should have been 'fixed' models ago. Airstream... probably never going to happen. Gee... thanks for adding your response. I was not expecting to find anyone interested. At the moment, the only thing I love better than my looking over the Oliver II is... my wife Nancy.
    1 point
  11. Finished installation today, used some ideas shared here. Our Ollie does not have solar charging system installed by Oliver. Already had a Renogy 100W suitcase portable solar panel. Used plastic cutting board as interior backing plate for the Furrion port. Also made two 12 1/2 foot solar cables out of 12/2 cable from Lowes with CNLINKO two pin connector to the Furrion port. Connected cables and solar panel together with MC4 connectors.
    1 point
  12. We installed the Furrion port because of the more durable cap. My sister's zamp plastic and flimsy cap connector broke within a year. It's a tradeoff, though. There are adaptors out there for renogy or other portable panel brands to zamp. For furrion, you have to buy an aftermarket male socket and solder it into the cable of the portable panel. Tedious, and a pita, but doable. And, cutting the wires and adding the furrion compatible male end would likely void a warranty. Using the zamp adaptor would not make a physical difference... Furrion and zamp ports now both have big market shares in other rv brands, so I suspect (or hope) someone will come up with a furrion adaptor in the next year or two. Zamp just got in first with big stickbuilt players.
    1 point
  13. John, Thanks for providing another and better reason to cross the chains under the trailer tongue. The drawing shows the concept perfectly too. David
    1 point
  14. Look for a local “hand wash” or detail shop that will do small RVs. Or ask a friend with a home where you could borrow their driveway and hose connection.... I sometimes use the water rinse at a commercial quarter car wash when traveling but never use the soap, which is very harsh, and never ever ever use the brush since it is caked with grit from the thousands of previous users..... if you can properly clean the Ollie and apply Rejex, the dirt and bugs come off much more easily than with regular car waxes. I would rather have a trailer filthy with road crud than use a commercial wash bay. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  15. The spray wand with water is probably fine - as the manual says avoid spraying in inlets/vents. Avoid getting the tip too close to the surface and be careful of the soaps as they can strip any wax you have fairly quickly. I would avoid any brushes they have - I usually find a car wash that isn't busy, use the wand to get spray the worst off, and then use a bucket and my own brushes/sponges to soap up and then the wand again to rinse.
    1 point
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