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I also have these bedside storage racks which are pretty handy - https://www.builtrightind.com/products/builtright-industries-mbrs-fseries-kit

kinda long.... We just ordered a color matched ARE Z topper similar to the attached pic and it’s approx 6-8 weeks on a turn around to take delivery. It is color matched to the paint code of our Iconic Silver 2020 F 250 Tremor. We prefer toppers as it gives a whole lot more room to carry cargo than a bed cover. We like to carry dry clean bicycles, generator, yeti cooler and general gear etc. ARE is located in Ohio so depending on where you live it may be a bit longer wait. I have owned (3) previous ARE toppers and have been pleased with their install, fit and finish. Hopefully this one will serve us well. I ordered an upgraded seal which adheres to the bottom of the topper (see pic). The foam seals used on toppers are junk and a waste of time and effort and flatten out quickly resulting in potential leaks or the topper rubbing paint off the bed side rails. Toppers weigh in usually at approx 200# or more depending on bed size, so this will add to your CGVWR. (Not a really concern here) The most important thing when ordering a topper is inspect the fit and finish and completely inspect the install. Look closely at the topper paint in the sun, check all seals, window functions, everything. Then check it again, don’t rush. Understand how they connect the topper brake light to the trucks electrical system. How many clamps do you get to secure the topper? Like anything, If the topper is not installed properly you will have issues such as leaks, and potentially paint rubbing off bed rails which is a serious NO go. There should be plenty of clearance between the bottom lip of the topper and the side of the painted bed rail. If not when the cheap foam seal settles and it will you will likely have paint damage on the bed rail. So inspect throughly before accepting the topper and final payment. You must have proper clearance to avoid paint rub issues. This clearance naturally depends on the truck and topper fitment. Keep in mind the foam will flatten out, don’t use it. The topper bed rail seal in the pic below which I ordered is one of the best in the industry and highly recommended by a close friend in another state who owns a competitor to a ARE - a Leer Truck Accessory Center. This seal must be cut on 45 degree angle on the corners for proper install. Attention to detail by the installer is critical through out. I highly recommend talking through the entire install and set expectations from the start before turning your keys over. Most of all check out your dealer, ask the tough questions before doing business. The ARE dealer I ordered through will actually send the topper back to ARE if there are any fitment or paint issues...as he should. Once you inspect and accept and give final payment....suffice to say it is yours. Read the ARE disclosure carefully under the warranty section. The ARE Z model topper we ordered runs anywhere between $2400-3000 depending on how you option it out. Not cheap so it has to be right. Most dealers require $500-700 down to order. The latest gimmick is topper installers are up-selling paint/protection where the topper meets the bed rail “Incase of rubbing”. If the topper is installed properly with the proper seal, you don’t need p/p. If the installer is upselling this paint protection hmmmmm....ask lots of fitment questions as this should not be required. It’s sorta like putting on a band aid prior to a cut. No body wants to spend $3000 and then deal with paint rub or fitment issues. Just a few thoughts, hope this helps.

The Diamondback covers are really nice. I know a number of contractors who have them and I almost got one myself. I ended up with a Leitner rack instead. I really like how I can attach pretty much anything to it. Here’s my usual camping setup with a Frontrunner rack on top with solar panels, and a custom rack I made out of 80/20 to hold some Hardigg cases.

@bhncb installed a 28 inch 12 volt television, as detailed in this thread:

The Nest looked cool and had potential, but it had a stupid floor plan, and adding in a lot of other bad decisions meant it was never going to succeed. Airstream just can’t get it right with their small trailer designs. Too much effort making marketable product and not enough effort making a good one.

I thought it may be useful to some viewing the Campground Forum to check out our web page for Hull 505 - Galway Girl. (Our domain name is 4-Ever-Hitched.com) Hull 505 - Galway Girl - 4-Ever-Hitched Website In our website we feature links to pages that include: 1) Trip to Factory - Describes the trip from WA to Hohenwald 2) Picking up our Trailer - Shows Delivery Day and Camping on the way home, includes maps and names of Campgrounds 3) Around the Northwest - Campground maps, pictures of sites, and links to various parks sites we've visited in the Pacific NW. (Updated Each Trip) 4) Blogs - in this we show repairs, updates we've done to our Elite II. (Updated as they happen.) Finally, there are links to the Amazon Oliver Trailer Outfitters List to post of handy items we and other's have purchased for use with their Olivers. Craig & Rose Short Owners: Hull 505 - Galway Girl Everett, WA

Anyone familiar with the RSI SmartCap? It's a stainless steel cap with hinged side windows and a ton of accessories. Looks like it could be really nice - https://www.rsismartcap.com/smarter-truck

Thanks for the info. FYI, if you’re looking for a content blocker that works with the site, I use 1Blocker with all its options turned on and I haven’t seen any problems.

I had this same problem, and I was able to fix it as follows: Tap the "aA" icon to the left of the website address to reveal the Website View menu. Tap on Website Settings. Turn OFF the Use Content Blockers switch, which will only affect the current domain (olivertraveltrailers.com). Tap Done.

FYI, Katanapilot and I agreed to use this IOS app to do the measurements. https://apps.apple.com/us/app/decibel-meter-sound-detector/id1254994873 There are others, some are more feature rich and expensive, but the basic version of this one works fine and is free. If there are any other iPhone owners who want to participate, please install that app and post your results. Don’t use a different one because that will mess up the results. I will try to get to “Mouse” to test the Air Command sound levels, but I am currently trapped in my bedroom with two HEPA filters running full bore, the Wildfire smoke AQI is slowly dropping from its high of nearly 550 Sunday. It is “only” 418 now. Maybe in a couple of days..... I will also get measurements as the compressor kicks in. That snarl is significantly louder than its running sound level, and lots more irritating. Stay safe everybody. Here is wishing everyone clear skies, cool temperatures and no fires. John Davies Spokane WA

Our button didn't work to change it to a spray. We kept pushing it but it didn't want push. We took it off and filled it with vinegar and let it sit (I think it was a couple of days before we got back to it). We put it back on, turned on the water, pushed the button. It crunched a few times and started to work. Guess it got a small piece of calcium caught in it. More a problem with the water than the faucet?

Airstream has given up on its fiberglass trailer and quit production. They’ve had a lot of issues with the Nest, sorry to see it go. https://www.airstream.com/travel-trailers/nest/ Mike

I think the NEST was a European style trailer, but for the U S it was a "no go" for American campers. I won't go into all the reasons I think it didn't sell well as the above posters covered it very well. trainman

I'm sad to see the Nest go. ButvI was sad when Airstream bought it out from Robert Johans. As his original design, it was an innovative, light and airy camper. Yes, it was more suitable for weekends or short trips, and didn't have a full bathroom, but it was 30 per cent or better less in weight, and, if course, price. Airstream clunked the floorplans, bloated the interior with heavy builtins, and failed in execution, except for creating lovely photos and a cool little website. Actually, if it weren't for the weight, and making up the bed every day, the 16u floorplan wasn't as terrible as the permanent bed plan. But a ridiculous price for the Airstream label. Was it ever a camper for me? No. Not really. But I'm still sad that an innovative product had its life shortened. https://ifitshipitshere.blogspot.com/2013/11/good-design-for-great-outdoors-nest.html?m=1 Sherry

As shown earlier, I went with the Yakima rack over my Decked system. Leitner is even more versatile and should be easier to get accessories. It’s a better rack! On edit: To be clear, Yakima is well built. The problem is figuring out which systems are compatible within the brand then getting the parts. So, Leitner at minimum is a better rack system as well as a better rack, too.

So, assuming this is the Grand Cherokee Trailhawk? Your Elite should look great paired with this 4 x 4. The tow package was standard, right? I believe we had one or two others towing Elites with the Grand Cherokee. With a gvwr on the Elite of 5000 pounds, you'll likely be happy, and well within your tow capacity. I'd encourage you to limit the amount of "stuff" you carry the first trip, just til you get used to it. What else have you towed with the Trailhawk? That's the Grand Cherokee version my daughter really loved when she was looking last year, but it was out of her budget range. Sherry

Yes, I believe it means the poster is a newer member. I'm assuming it will disappear after five or ten posts. A new member designation is common on a lot of forums, but we've never had it here, until now. Sherry

It apparently means that the person is new, or hasn’t posted much. Kind of an odd icon. I think it’s supposed to convey “hi, I’m new” but it looks more like “stranger danger” to me.

We have the Diamondback HD as well -- we did the Crossbin 8 (smaller one) with the two sideboxes. Ours has the black coating. One sidebox has a my water stuff (zero G hose, regulator, filter) so that other stuff doesn't get them dirty. The other sidebox has my POL (grease gun, generator oil, etc... that I don't want on the rest of my stuff. The front box has tools, pop up cones, and some of the small parts for stuff. I still have full length use of the bed, or even room for some of the extended Diesel tanks. I can remove the whole cover in about 15 minutes, by myself if I have to but with help it's probably 5 minutes. Popping out the front box is pretty easy.

Practically, payload is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating minus Curb Weight. Technically, it is whatever the Tire and Loading placard on the driver's door jamb says after: The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed In your case, the 2017 Jeep Trailhawk CW is published as 4869. Based on the 6500 GVWR, max payload should be 1631 minus the weight of factory optional equipment like the rock rails and engine block heater. Don't try to resolve the difference between this calculation and the figure on the placard because the placard calculation was determined by the legal department, based on the original equipment tires, and has little engineering basis. Generally, using the placard number is advisable. I'll spare the subjective on capability but what "related" capacity information are you looking for?

Here's some cool storage boxes I put in the bed of my truck a few months ago called "Swing Case" that I'm really loving so far (Undercover SwingCase Truck Bed Storage Box | SC101D | Fits 99-07 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 1500-3500Drivers Side 1500-3500). I bought the Chevy brand and they make similar cases for the other major pickup truck brands. They use the spaces behind the wheel well that are tough to use. They are easy to remove if you want to use the entire bed for plywood or sheet rock, etc. They swing out for easy access to the storage which is awesome because I used to have to jump up into the bed to get to my toolbox in the back. Here's what they look like installed: I have all my tools in the one on the driver side - and I carry a large assortment so pretty heavy. On the left hand side, here's some pictures of what I have packed in there: Holds a surprising amount of stuff: ratchet wrenches, a collapsible utility shovel, 2 tie down straps, a rain suit, heavy duty booster cables and a tire repair kit. Even if I have things in the middle of the bed that are in the way, I can easily move them out onto my tailgate to make room to swing the box. The price is pretty steep, so I started with one and liked it so much I ended up buying the other side.

I would write “or compressor refrigerator?” but then this post would head off in a much different direction and it would soon be about tow vehicle size!😂

I thought the most requested item was a bigger Ollie.🧐

Please take a moment of silence for those Americans we lost and those that still suffer from this horrific attack on our beautiful country. Thank you for all those who serve and have served in protecting our great nation. Our flag flies at half on this day every year. May God continue to Bless the United States of America. Be Safe Oliver Family. -Patriot

The story I was told is that in order to get RVIA certification, all the plumbing fixtures have to be RVIA approved. It's probably a racket, but that's supposedly why Oliver had to switch from the marine faucet in the bath. Like Mike, I swapped out our kitchen faucet, too.

I'd check your faucets and toilet for calcium buildup. While the plastic bits are certainly an issue, I think calcium deposits are more of a problem than we think. I suspect that hard campsite water combined with periods of disuse leads to water evaporating in the pipes, leaving a hard scale that will build up and then pop loose from vibrations, clogging the fixtures. I haven't had a clog yet, but I did take a look in some pipe that I replaced for other reasons, and sure enough, it was coated with tiny flakes of calcium.

We have modified our plumbing system for the 2017 models by eliminating our 90 degree elbows eliminating potential water leaks. We haven't had any issues with water leaks but we are always looking at how we can make the Oliver better. We are now using pex bend supports. We have also started using a different diverter tee which allows for greater flow.