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So the truck is loaded... We head south tomorrow, pick up # 685 Tuesday. As I’ve been jamming stuff into the Tundra, a strange mix of what worked with the Casita, great ideas I’ve picked up from this forum, some probably not so great ideas I’ve picked up from this forum, and a large number of items that fall into the “better to have them and not need them than not have them and need them” category, I can’t help but reflect upon the last 6 months following this forum... Sure are a great group of folks on here, and it’s been wonderful eavesdropping on your discussions, debates, and pontifications.. Its been helpful to say the least as we prepare for “Mark and Debs big adventure”... which really started about 6 months ago when I first checked out this site.. Thanks for all your help.. Hope to meet you all someday! We’ll be the Ollie with the Alewives on the front...

I don't usually chime in but I'll give one suggestion we use. Easy to put up and down is a Clam with the side panels and put a propane fire pit in the middle you can be in the windiest, rainiest, coldest temps and sit pretty. we have had 6 or seven people sit around the fire pit for hours so something to think about. the newer one with the flaps on top keep the heat in better as well. Happy travels. Thanks Gary

I'm just happy that a thread I started has eventually evolved to the topic of Shower Beers. ;)

Jim, The Collar works great, no worries at all there. The Discus lock is a kinda lame (easy to pick), there are much better choices in the $40+ range. I have this one..... Stanley padlock hardened One way to prevent somebody from dropping your locked coupler onto their 1 7/8” ball and driving away - insert a 2” ball bearing into the Bulldog coupler socket. https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A3VQ Keep the extra one as a spare or give it to a kid as a toy. What a cool stocking stuffer! You could use an old 2” hitch ball if you have one, cut the shank off with a hacksaw. But the bearing is a more elegant solution. John Davies Spokane WA

Hi Fargoman, my wife and I just picked up our Oliver and I can help with a few questions. 1. Ultrafabric is not really fabric we found... it looks like some sort of cheap fake leather unfortunately. We tried to trade it out immediately, but no luck (Oliver did try). We will eventually just have them reupholstered with some real fabric - we don't care for any of the Oliver options anyhow (maybe just too picky). One good thing is the Ultrafabric will be easier to clean / keep clean since nothing will soak in. 2. We didn't get the KTT mattress upgrade because we didn't want to invest in anything before trying the standard mattress and then possibly getting a custom one made at some point. I don't care for memory foam so much as my back gets sore on it so I probably wouldn't like the KTT. However, I was PLEASANTLY SUPRISED with the stock cushions. They were actually pretty darn good. A bit firm for my wife, but I didn't have a back ache or anything like that sleeping 2 nights on it. 3. I have the new Girard, powered awning. I don't remember having a choice in the 2020 version so I can't help with this one. 4. We did not get this. The valve is so easy to push in or pull out manually I'm glad we didn't go with the auto option. Just some additional electronics that could break in my opinion. Best of luck picking everything out - no matter what you pick you will love it. NCeagle

Well said John. Everyone has to decide these things for themselves but... Between what you note and finding out I need to have some oral surgery done soon I've bailed on some plans. Thankfully I live in a place where I can do lots of great things including camping without getting far from a pretty good medical network that is currently a lot less stressed than those in many other parts of the country. I won't pretend I'm not disappointed but right now this is a good sort of problem to have I think. Leaving this time to going through the archives and share the stuff above (among other things) 😃

One thing that most people do not consider is that even if you are in the boonies, if you do get really sick with the virus, you will have to deal with the local walk in clinic or a really small rural hospital. Not only will they not have very many resources, you will be needlessly stressing their very limited capacity. I am not saying don’t camp, but do stay fairly close to a major highway, do have an emergency plan to get you promptly to a major city, in case things go downhill quickly. You really don’t want to pay for a medi-vac flight from say fifty miles back in the Grand Staircase/ Escalante NM to Salt Lake City.... and be sure to have some kind of satellite communicator, for when you are in trouble and there are no bars on your cell phone, and buy the optional search and rescue insurance. https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2020/10/22/926264615/covid-19-surges-in-rural-communities-overwhelming-some-local-hospitals And understand this, if you travel with a companion and you catch the virus, he too will probably get sick shortly afterwards, so there goes your backup..... if you are both over 60, you are at much greater risk than those younger folks. Be very careful, always. It’s a killer. John Davies Spokane WA

The rubber chocks Topgun linked are very excellent but pretty expensive for four. I agree that you need heavy rubber ones, the Harbor Freight chocks are a great value ($32 for 4) and work super well. Buy four, attach a 48” length of bright rope to each pair, loop it over the hubcap, it makes it a lot easier to retrieve them, especially if they are wet/ dirty. Put the knobby side down, toward the pavement, and kick each one lightly against the tire with your shoe. After you are hitched, if one gets stuck under the tire do not despair, grab the one that did come free and whack the hell out of the stuck one with it, it will pop out in a couple of blows. Don’t kick it or you will hurt your toes and swear a bunch. ALWAYS double chock BOTH tires whenever the trailer is going to be disconnected. The brightly colored rope makes it less likely you will forget to remove them when you drive away. Buy these chocks HF will have a big Black Friday sale really soon, they might knock a couple of bucks off the price. John Davies Spokane WA

All you absolutely need is payment. Leveling thingies: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S I use these - they are very good for the $$ If your going the Anderson hitch - don't worry - Oliver will set it up for you. Otherwise A 2'"ball - on a 2" receiver with the appropriate drop or rise to set the top of the ball at about 23-25 " from the surface. I would wait until I've spent a few nights and locations before I purchased much more. RB

We have fallen in love with the Lynx Leveling blocks and chocks. A pkg of 10 flat blocks that stack and interlock and a couple chocks that have the same interlocking fit. There seem to be a couple of popular brands but since we did our first 10,000+mi with the Lynx and they worked so well, I guess we are now Lynx-for-Life.

I can vouch for the shower beer can holder, but it isn’t a Toolsie product. It is labeled Sudski and it was the first silicone wall product I bought. I found it on sale at Kohl’s and I had a coupon as well. I think it was about $6. Mossey

A few weeks ago, I sat down with Scott Oliver in the new Sales & Service center to talk about our businesses and how we would continue to work together in the coming year. We both brought lots of exciting ideas to the table and I am very thrilled to continue our partnership in the coming year. As many of you know the RV industry is growing at an unprecedented growth rate and so is Oliver’s. For the last two years, I have been shipping my products to Oliver and they have been installing them for new trailer deliveries at no charge. Today on a call with Rodney Lomax, Oliver’s General Manager, we worked out how we will move forward when Oliver installs my products. A service fee of $150 will be charged to covers their cost of receiving the products, storing them until your delivery date, and their installation. While this would not make sense for a single item like a shower mat, it does for 4 or more of my products like countertops. For less than 4 items, I would recommend having them shipped directly to you. Starting today, customers who order and want me to ship to Oliver will be billed by Oliver the $150 charge fee. For all customers who have ordered before today that have asked me to ship to Oliver, there will still be NO CHARGE. You are grandfathered in – thanks to Scott & Rodney! You can find my new catalog HERE

Interesting. I was told otherwise. May the battle of the best sales rep win 😛

Follow-up on yesterday's unscientific test of the Ivation desiccant dehumidfier: With approximately 3.5 hours of operation, the humidity in our garden shed was reduced from 65-45%; the reservoir collected 2 1/2 cups of water, slightly more than 1/8 of its capacity.

I cut my first set from a project leftover. I felt like I was doing something wrong buying a whole piece of lumber to make my second set when the first was done, but alas no recent projects.

Just a simple data point: During the second half of a recent hunting trip the temperatures averaged 24 degrees at night. In 6 days I used 7 1/2 gallons of propane for the RV heater, and only 2 gallons of propane to run the Honda 2200 for 3 hours every night. I have the Hutch Mountain conversion.

Forgot about the legs. It was mentioned above. I would be happy with 4 - 5 more inches. At least I have a few weeks to think about it. Luckily we adapt quickly and will be happy to have travel wheels again.

We just use dimensional lumber cutoffs, like Jim-oker. Ours are free, from various projects . When they get nasty, they go into the campfire. Replace them with more free stuff. One time, at a group camp with many out of level spots, Paul went to a Lowe's and asked them to cut up a couple 2 x 8's for everyone we were camping with. It was a big help.

I’ve been using the yellow Camco lego levelers for years with very little wear showing. I’ve got two sets, both from Walmart. I use them under wheels to level and also use them under my wood blocks at each jack.

I don't know which Ultrafabric Brisa Oliver uses, but if in doubt, ask for a sample. The stamping /texture and sheen are different in various types. Pretty sure on our boat that we have "original," which is less leather looking, but very soft and breathable. Texture more similar to kid glove leather. Brisa isn't "bulletproof, " but it's pretty nice in a Florida marine environment. Not sticky to sit on in shorts, like old school Naugahyde. Cleans up well with water or water and soap and a microfiber cloth. More than decent wyzenbeek scale double rub count (durability). Brisa is commonly used in luxury yachts, where natural leather may crack and mildew.

And, John's idea on the two inch ball bearing is genius. You can probably order one for less, or I'd go to my local bearing distributor. Probably less than $10.

One note about the awning options: I contacted Girard to inquire about the different fabrics in the standard vs pro options that Oliver offers. Since our Oliver will be residing in the PNW, I was concerned about the effect of damp weather on the Sunbrella fabric. They confirmed my belief that the vinyl fabric is more suited to our moist environment. We are willing to forego the wind sensor upgrade in favor of the vinyl awning that will be easier to keep mildew free. I was told by my sales rep that both awnings have LED lights; if not, these are an easy add-on if you desire this feature.

Take a look here, there have been lots of discussions. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3930-truma-hot-water-heater-questions/?tab=comments#comment-38221 I remain steadfastly in the KISS camp. Keep It Simple Stupid. The standard unit is primitive and inefficient, but VERY easy to maintain by the owner, and cheap to replace it if fails. It is also fairly loud if you are sleeping on top of it, I turn it off at night, then switch it on in the morning when I start to wake up, the switch is easy to reach from that bed without getting up, if your head is toward the galley. OTOH, if you are plugged into city water and sewer often, you might love the endless hot water the Truma offers. For boondocking, not so much. Where and how do you plan to camp? That is the question.... ,John Davies Spokane WA

FYI with your brand new pickup truck (new shock absorbers) you will be wasting your time and money getting the Andersen. An old truck with worn shocks would benefit from it because it dramatically reduces the up/ down seesaw forces on jouncey roads. But in that case it makes more sense to just install high quality replacement shocks. Last oil change I discovered both my OEM Land Cruiser rear shocks were leaking oil (blown seals) - the fronts were fine. This is with 140,000 miles so it is not unexpected. If you put a lot of miles on your Rebel and notice things aren’t as stable as the used to be, don’t install an Andersen to correct it....😬 Just fix the real problem. Hang in there, you are getting close. I hope you have a decent camera because we are all expecting lots of pictures over the next few months.... John Davies Spokane WA

1. You can visualize the differences between the Ultrafabric and cloth fabric here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/legacy-elite-2/standard-options/ We opted for the Ultrafabric. Here is more information on the upgraded fabric Oliver uses: https://www.ultrafabricsinc.com/brands/brisa 2. We passed on the KTT Upgrade. 3. Both the standard and pro awnings for 2021 are motorized Girard GG750 awnings. The difference between the pro option is an LED strip, wind sensor, and a treated polyester material (similar to sunbrella) is used instead of vinyl. 4. We passed on this option.

It has been just over a year since we spent our first night at David Crockett SP after our delivery. I think Oliver usually tries to reserve the same few spots. I noticed from photos we were in the same spot at those that picked up before and after us. We had never camped in a travel trailer and had very limited towing experience. We had almost no experience backing up a trailer. From experience, just take your time with everything. A check list for set up and departure are a huge help. Folks at David Crockett in the sites near us had seen other new Oliver's in and out of the campground. They were understanding, nice and helpful. By taking our time we were able to get our Elite II parked pretty easily. If in doubt when backing up stop, get out of the truck and look!!! Good luck and don't rush.

Hi congrats on getting an Ollie! I can't speak to the fabric we got the standard fabric. We ordered mattresses directly from Southern Mattress. Very happy with the service. They have Oliver dimensions and put curves in the corners etc. Pricing was lower than Oliver. You can save additional on shipping if they ship to a business address. We did purchase the moisture prevention pads that go under the mattresses from Oliver. You might be able to source something comparable elsewhere for less. I would get moisture guards. We didn't have a choice on awning brand. I agree on the manual valve. Manual is easy and less to break or service. Good luck! We like our 2019 model. We purchased an inventory model so it was pretty loaded with options.

I have no particularly good knowledge - when I started looking for one (based reading what pulmonologists were starting to say as they got some handle on the "crashing" of patients and how to try to ward it off), there were of course many not in stock. This one seemed to at least have decent reviews and it was available, and so far it's worked for periodic baseline testing at home afaik (I have not calibrated it against equipment at my doc's office for instance). The readings seem to be in a reasonable range. The pulse checks out with what I get with a finger on the wrist and a watch, and the O2 reading goes up if I take several deep breaths and has been happily in the mid-high nineties. I think even if it's not super well calibrated it will be clear if one of us has a significant drop while sympotmatic. And it's simple to use and easy to read. Innovo IP900AP. And it's not very expensive given what it may do for you. The articles I read in places like the NYT mentioned that this sort of relatively cheap made-for-home-use oximeter tends to be fairly decent, but they also stress that if you get low readings that these should be confirmed by a doctor since there are some things that can impact accuracy (and don't freak out before your low reading is confirmed by a medical pro who knows what they're doing!). That said, we've just followed the directions that came with this thing and have yet to see worryingly low readings (I'll leave it to folks to find their info on interpreting the readings since I'm not a doctor! though here's one article for starters).

Thanks for the info. . . . . rain??? . . . . . what's that?

My 2019 Elite was about 20” level, after the trailer weight is out on it, everything fully loaded. Dave Phelps was similar. No Andersen WD hitch. I think that I read the Elite II has more ground clearance, not sure. Your truck will sag when you put your cargo in the bed and fill with gas, and add the trailer tongue weight, loaded with all your stuff. How much your new Rebel will sag I cannot say, but my 2019 F150 FX4 sagged several Inches. I used a Reese Towpower ball mount 2” drop. Looks something like this. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45036.html If you want to splurge, you could go with something like this which is height adjustable and includes a weight scale. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Weigh-Safe/WS4-25.html I’ve never owned one so you might seek the opinion of someone who has. Whatever you buy, make sure the ball is already mounted and torqued correctly, you don’t want to deal with that on the road. Don’t forget the pin that secures it in the receiver, and consider hitch locks. See previous post on the hitch height, it shows a pic of how it was measured, as well as comments on tongue weight. I never weighed mine, but SeaDawg had a fugure of 420# loaded, Dave Phelps was 450.

You won’t need the Andersen hitch with a new Rebel pulling an Elite. I just measured and the top of the receiver on my Rebel is 21”. If you have a straight mount with no drop the top of your ball would be just over 23”. If you did a 2” drop mount the top of your ball would be at about 21”. I don’t know what height the Elite needs to be level. The good news is there is a Tractor Supply a mile from where you are picking up and they have a big assortment of hitches. Next door is Walmart and they have hitches too, plus chocks, etc. Mike

Well - In our experience - its fairly easy to go about (in an RV) the US under Covid - just follow common sense and the guidelines. 2021 looks like a better environment. Closures are usually posted on most of the reservation websites, boondocking is very social distanced. Utah is virtually one giant campground. NM a little more controlled, Texas - lots of place to chose. Campendium is your friend. Enjoy! RB

SherMica - Relax! Chocks - For the Elite I you will need a minimum of 2 chocks - one chock for each tire. The ones you have noted on Amazon will do for most situations. However, for added safety you should consider 4 chocks. The reason for this is that normally you only place one chock on the "downhill" side of each wheel. However, in situations where it is not apparent which is the "downhill" side of a tire and/or you are parked on level ground it is prudent to place a chock on both sides of the tire. Remember, chocks are the only things that prevent your Oliver from rolling when you are not attached to your tow vehicle. While the plastic chocks you have noted on Amazon will do the job in most situations, there are situations where these chocks will slip/slide on the surface - think smooth concrete or asphalt. And these plastic chocks will turn brittle, crack and fracture after a relatively short period of time (couple of years in most situations). While rubber chocks cost more up front and are much heavier than the plastic ones, they tend to last much longer and a generally much more stable on surfaces where the plastic ones slip. https://www.amazon.com/SECURITYMAN-Rubber-Wheel-Chocks-Trailer-RV-Heavy-Duty-/dp/B07VMTLFD1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=21K8CV0QXC3U8&dchild=1&keywords=rubber+chocks+for+travel+trailer&qid=1605917334&sprefix=rubber+chocks%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUTkRRTU1CVDIzWjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MjkzMjkxSVRYWDdUMFJXVkU3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTI5NzQxTk5aR1BJMDJaWDJKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Leveling blocks - The leveling blocks you show are "double long" as compared to those that most people carry (and they are more than double the price of the regular ones). Even thought I generally use my Andersen leveling system which is by far the most simple for a solo traveler ( https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917607&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-25 ), I also carry the "regular lego leveling blocks like these: https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2NFIJAG9AR9V6&dchild=1&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1605917775&sprefix=Andersen+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-11. Of course, if you are short of funds and/or care to be really simple with this whole thing of raising a wheel off the ground for the purposes of leveling the camper, you can always simply get a number of 12 to18 inch lengths of 2x6 that will serve much of the same purpose. Receiver hitch - This one is slightly more complicated. For your trailer to correctly tow behind you in a level orientation with your tow vehicle, the top of the 2 inch ball will need to be a certain number of inches off level ground. Your Oliver sales rep can give you this figure. Then, measuring the distance from level ground to the top of you receiver on your truck you will get an idea of what the "drop" or "rise" should be (note that it is most likely you will need a "drop" given the truck that you purchased). All you need to do is to get in the "ballpark" - you do not have to be exact on this measurement because fine tuning can be completed with washers under that "ball thingy". Certainly there is nothing "wrong" with the receiver hitch that you have shown on Amazon but you will need to either do the measurements as per the above or take the advice of someone (perhaps like Seadawg) that tows with a similar tow vehicle and tows an Elite I. Finally - The answers to your final questions virtually all fall into the "how prepared do you wish to be" category. Yes, for your stay at the State Park you will probably not "need" a longer sewer hose or extension cord or any adaptors, etc.. However, once you leave there you just might stay at a place where you are not near the electric outlets and thus will need an extension cord or you are not near the sewer dump and you need another length of sewer hose or the place you are staying only has a "regular 15 amp" outlet (think of the wall sockets in your house or apartment) and you need a 30 amp to 15 amp converter plug/adaptor/dogbone or conversely, the campground only has a site with 50 amp and you need to convert that to 30 amp via a 50 to 30 amp conversion plug or dogbone as they are sometimes called). Do not stress over these things. For the most part you will be fairly near civilization at least until you are more comfortable with your Oliver. Therefore, you will be able to either borrow what you need - you'll find that your fellow campers can be very helpful in this regard - or you will be able to get it from the campground store or host or a town will be near enough that you can purchase what you need at that time. OR, you will find out that you really do not need many of these things because your Oliver can be a very comfortable place to live without hooking up to electricity or even water for short periods of time. Bill edit: BackofBeyond is correct above - if you are getting the Andersen weight distribution hitch then the folks at Oliver will set it all up for you at delivery and you do NOT need to purchase a receiver hitch.

Easy peasy - just get a: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1TPE7311X9O4X&dchild=1&keywords=wattmeter+and+power+analyzer&qid=1605918730&sprefix=wattmeter%2Cautomotive%2C170&sr=8-2 You will know everything you need for plug in stuff. Don't worry about power factor. Well - unless its a really big motor or inductive resistance. In that case 30 amps ain't doin it anyways. For the big stuff - its usually got a labeled power draw - but if you must, https://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Wattage

Susan, what are you trying to calculate? If your question is just a general one, the power factor is simply the ratio of power used by a system vs power delivered. If the PF is 1, you have something that is 100% efficient and there is no loss in the system. A power factor of .9 would imply that the system is 90% efficient; in other words, there is a 10% loss somewhere in the system. At least I think that is how it works 😬

Oth, moving from site to site would allow you to learn about hooking up, backing up, and leveling, while you're still in learning mode. It's up to you.

I think that the time and effort involved in moving sites would not be worth it. Our first night we barely had time to unhook and start moving all our gear into our new Ollie before the sun set. Summer would be different of course. The Oliver company will get you into a good spot and you can likely just stay at that site and save yourself a lot of hassle. For me, a good site is not on the edge of a sharp curve and is long enough to keep your tow vehicle in front of the trailer.

The video said a max weight capacity of 260 pounds, can that possibly be right? That is simply enormous.... I was expecting 80 per bike on two trays. I am not in the immediate market for one, but a local bicycle dealer just announced they are now stocking Yamaha eBikes, so who knows what Christmas might bring...? Those are around 50+ pounds..... A high rack load limit would be good, for reserve capacity plus general strength and sturdiness. Yummy .... : John Davies Spokane WA

This is Westport-Union Landing State Beach Campground on the northern Mendocino county coast (CA) shortly before 101 heads inland and uphill to the north tp reach the awesome Avenue of the Giants State Park. This is a primitive but super well situated campground, actually a series of three little campgrounds in a row, set right on the bluff between the highway and the Pacific, with a nice small series of sea stacks right there. But as you can see in the photo of our friends setting up the tent they were using on this trip (we were in our van), it was WINDY as the coast is apt to be. I watched one tent that hadn't been staked out well (or at all) blowing and tumbling down the beach as we were setting up.

Here are some shots from Bridger Bay Campground in Antelope Island SP on the Great Salt Lake near Layton, north of SLC. I've used it as a stopover a few times when doing the long haul from near Seattle down to canyon country in southern UT and northern AZ. By this point in the drive - my second night in - I'm ready for a not absolutely full day of driving and want some exercise and beauty. This fits the bill quite well. The camp sites have stunning views across part of the lake, and there's a little unofficial trail up to a headland/ridge that has amazing views out over the lake, and enough walking to feel like I've gotten some exercise and have worked the kinks out from sitting so long. The first time I was there, in mid-late May, there were SO many bugs hitting my windshield and the rest of the front of the van while I drove out the loooong causeway that connects the island to the mainland. Don't say I didn't warn you ;-). There are pit toilets and not much else - possibly some water spigots but I forget. There are showers down the road at a day use beach area that you can drive up to and use at night. On my second trip there, some of the island's buffalo herd were grazing not far from camp. When I came back down from my evening hike up to that ridge and its views out to amazing thunderheads building on the Nevada side mirrored in a super glassy Great Salt Lake, they had moved in across the trail. I have no interest in being charged by a buffalo so I walked cross country through the sage and other brush in a wide arc around them back down to the campground, watching them warily as they watched me warily. I fortunately passed their test. It was fun to wake up to them chowing down fairly close to my van the next morning. One of these years I'll stay two nights and do some longer hiking on the island, which has many miles of trails.

I have been working on a Drop-Leaf design for another customer that would increase the size of the pantry countertop for serving and fold down for storage when not in use. Something similar could be done for the front edge of the dinette. I will post pictures once I have a prototype of the pantry drop-leaf.

I feel the same about our big Yamaha. Thank goodness for wheels, and thank goodness for power during the hurricanes. I just don't ever envision hauling it around.

This is very cool . . . . . thanks for sharing. Now we need the beer holder!

I ordered two of these - one for each of us. Also, the toothbrush holder, soap dish, and two of the little hooks, to hang wash cloths on. I can think of many uses in other locations in the trailer.

Yes they are still in use and yes I still love them. Think of a silicone hot pad or oven mitt, they are nearly indestructible. We have 4 of the one in the picture and I see a different one called the Frank that is a little larger than ours and have a 10 lb. rating. And they are returnable if you don’t like them. Mossey

Yes - very dry.

That's a good use for it; I hadn't thought about TP storage. Does it stay dry there? 😀

Not too sure about bath towels - I keep three extra rolls of tp in that space. Bill

Are these still working out for you? I'm looking at them on Amazon and want to be sure before spending $18 each for the pockets.

wlonghurst, I feel for your concerns, your Truma problem should have been caught before delivery. However, you stated above: “It has not worked from the first night of camping at David Crockett State Park. We should have gone back to Oliver the next day but headed for home (New Mexico) thinking that we just had not been properly operating it.“ The whole point of personally picking up your new trailer in TN is so that you can give it a thorough shake-down over several days, testing EVERYTHING, and give the factory the opportunity to fix any problems BEFORE you end up 2000 miles away. So maybe you should consider not being so harsh on the nice folks in Hohenwald. Did you attempt to contact the Service Department to ask about your Truma before you headed west? If so, what was their response? If a buyer is unwilling to linger in TN for a few days, it seems more sensible to me to just have the trailer shipped by truck to your home town. John davies Spokane WA