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I ordered this Rubbermaid 24 gallon storage container thanks to a post by another owner on the Ollie FB page. I think will work fine for carrying our Andersen chocks, jack blocks and other initial trailer set items while freeing up even more room in the truck bed. I will post a review of how much gear it will hold after it arrives.

You can buy custom length cables of any type and size, and they are quite affordable, but this really limits how well they will fit and also you have to wait for them to be made and shipped. I don't believe they will install anything but straight ends, but you can order one unfinished, with one raw end for you to complete. They also sell high quality battery cable by the foot, they have all sizes. The prices are a little lower than most other suppliers. A good crimper is essential, a crude "beat on it with a hammer" one will be acceptable if you can access the parts away from the trailer. If they are in a tight location, or to make perfect crimps, you need a good hydraulic tool: TEMCo Hydraulic Lug Crimper Tool TH1818 DIELESS Indent 10AWG to 400MCM And some heavy self adhesive heat shrink tubing to cover and reinforce the connection: For cutting, a big cold chisel and that great big hammer will work, with the cable laid onto a piece of steel plate or a bench vice. This is way more elegant, it gives precise even cuts, it won't slip and smash your hand, and you won't say any bad words: That particular tool will fit over the big 4/0 welding cable that Oliver uses (with inverter) but only if it is slid down the length of it from one end. If you need to chop a long 4/0 or larger cable in situ, you will need a big size cutter. I had no troubles using this medium sized one on all the Ollie cables. TEMCo TH0001 4/0 (0000 Gauge) Wire and Cable Cutter – with 12 in. Handles Sometimes an angled end terminal fitting will be useful, to allow the cable to lie in a more natural position. These are very hard to find locally, and it is not recommended that you bend a straight one, it can cause cracks and eventual failure. Choose a terminal end with the exact hole size you need, or one smaller (you can drill it larger). For any cable carrying high current, do not install oversized ends on a smaller post, it limits the contact area and could possibly cause issues like overheating or loosening. I hope this is useful. Measure three times, cut once! John Davies Spokane WA

THANK YOU ALL! We had another practice camping and followed your advice. No more adding gates or extra valves etc...just leaving it hooked together. (sometimes we look at each other do a face palm and say, "Thank goodness for the forum"). We are also pleased to have practiced tank flushing, getting a setting up and taking down routine and mastering the whale tail. So looking forward to May and the NOTT. Zef and 00na

My 2017 Ford F-150 only has 31,000 miles on it. But, I decided that it was time to replace the cabin air filter and with temperatures in the mid to high 70 yesterday it was just about the perfect day to do this small job. After watching several YouTube videos on the subject, I got out my automobile trim removal tools and a 7mm socket and got to work. Perhaps because this was the first time various parts of the dashboard had been removed it seemed to take a bit more force than I expected to get the trim to "pop" loose. But all went as planned until I removed the old air filter and found this: My first thought was that a rodent was building a nest. But there are no signs of droppings, chew marks or any other of the usual rodent calling cards. In addition, there is no sign of any of this type of "insulation" material anywhere near the dash. My best guess is that it has been there since the truck was built. Given the dirt roads I've been down and the general environments I've camped in, I'm a bit surprised that this filter wasn't even dirtier, but, I'm still very glad that I replaced it. Bill

I’m not sure if things are changing with in the forum. I noticed when I log in, the activity button is not there? It just shows Home, Forums, Service. No more activity. When your not logged in there is a area to the right to click Show all activity?

Just bought two of those same containers to use in the truck bed. Kinda pricey but high quality. Amazon has a 2 pack for $120. Rubbermaid ActionPacker️ 24 Gal Lockable Storage Bins Pack of 2, Industrial, Rugged Storage Containers with Lids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXGRHDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MZEX507G1GJ0MZMP4DRV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I store 30’ (3 x 10’ sections) in the bumper, plus the elbow and rubber seal for the campsite sewer connection, and a collapsible Camco hose support (separated into 2 sections). It all fits in the bumper storage compartment, just barely, with careful packing.

Not really - on an Ollie, the black tank is higher than the grey so you'd have to use a pump.

I've been looking for a hose bibb to 30 amp adapter, but haven't had any luck. May need to make my own.

I'd imagine that by mid-May most owners will have had their vaccinations anyway. I know that our state has opened vaccinations up for everyone now and the vaccine supply seems ample, at least in our city.

The factory wiring leaves those great big cables unprotected between the batteries and the main fuse. This mod adds individual fuses at each battery positive post. The fuse size you pick should depend on the battery maximum current rating. For my Battle Born lithium 100 amp hour batteries, 175 to 200 amps is appropriate. NOTE these may not work on the factory wiring, a lot depends on how much room is available and if the cables have enough length and if they will fit properly. You might need to replace a cable end with a different shaped one. This thread is a FYI for folks who might want to modify the factory setup. Search for discounted prices, these Blue Sea parts can often be found at marine suppliers for way les than Amazon Prime and they often include low or free shipping too. The blocks and fuses are sold SEPARATELY. Be sure to buy a couple of extra fuses for your spares kit. John Davies Spokane WA

What gets me when they had the non rally rally a short time ago in the middle of every thing Scott Oliver was there showing off the new Ollie. They had several get togethers one was a QA for newbies with Scott Oliver at the main club house. Seemed like a rally to me. May not have been a full blown rally as in the past but still a rally.

OK - I fully understand - The rally is just a bunch of Oliver owners setting up shop in a common camp ground - amidst an improving Covid 19 precautionary atmosphere. It seems to me - Given - reasonable safety precautions - we could hold a few informal/formal topic specific get togethers - for those folks comfortable following the distancing and masking guidelines. There are plenty of open air places to have such a gathering - weather permitting - where such topics as - Oliver specific question and answer session - may be valuable to some. It appears we will have a good number of experienced owners in attendance who may be in a position to share their knowledge. If there is any interest in this or any other topic - please post your thoughts here. We are all adults - we can manage our risk accordingly. If you feel differently - fine - my comments are simply to understand any interests over and above the camping experience. RB

Now for something completely different. Good morning coffee IV song — all piano, all amazing. https://youtu.be/DgDiT51algo

I've used the same ladder for several years, now. I climb onto roofs, into attics and other places for work. I like it. Have the same ladder for about 8 years. It holds up well, fits in the trunk of a car if needed.

A beautiful 81 degree sunny day here on Blueberry Hill in Western NC, so we gave our Ollie a bath and got it cleaned up and ready to go. The ladder is a keeper. It did not flex at all and the entire time I felt very safe on it. No wobble, no bend, no creaks, just solid. It extended very smoothly and retracted as it should. I would not hesitate to purchase this ladder again. I have attached a few pics showing how well the silicone rung cover works. I give it a 👍🏻 Up. PM if you have questions. Hope this helps anyone looking for a decent strong telescopic ladder. My Bride and I also removed the old white window seals and installed the new black seals after a good deep cleaning of the window tracks. A few extra bonus photos. Partially extended was all I needed as I am tall and this worked great. The silicone rung protector worked excellent.

Thanks Bill, for the reference to this post. This will be helpful to untwist the hose. If I knew which way to turn it, or if it would be able to be untwisted without removing the front panel, I would do that. Maybe I should remove the front panel anyway to fix other issues, or to verify other issues are not there (or are). Not securing wiring or plumbing is a surprise. That is rather important for any use, but when in a moving vehicle subject to vibrations and bouncing, it is imperative. At delivery, I was told that the refrigerator plug is now secured with a tie wrap. It would fall out due to vibration and weight of the cord. I don't like using a tie wrap. A "space saver" plug would have helped a lot. But it should be better than it was, for a while. John

I carry a 50amp to 30amp adapter. Here’s a link to the one I purchased from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXP2R4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_9JHD89SBCVWMA30W4QEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And I also carry a 15 amp to 30amp adapter for plugging into a standard household power outlet for those occasional Harvest Host stops that have an outlet available. Can’t run the air conditioner or microwave (don’t want to pop a breaker in the Host’s house) but it’s good for running all the DC powered accessories and charging up the battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY57SNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_AYP7J647VPGQDDPW3XM0

When you change your last name to Oliver?😁

1. Loading isn't as easy as when the trailer isn't attached, but possible, as you have to straddle the trailer frame. 50# e-bikes will be more difficult than our lighter bikes, for sure, but that would be the case with any rack where you have to raise the bike up that high. I'm not sure how you load them. 2. Turning radius is not impaired enough to be noticeable or a problem; maybe if you were to totally jack knife the trailer. 3. We don't use an Anderson or other anti-sway accessory 4. Your question regarding the 2 1/4" drop totally depends on the TV. Our F350 SD 4wd is not even affected by the weight of the trailer, rack and bikes. The dual hitch we use is just fine. If the drop doesn't work for you, there is no reasonable way to adjust the drop, that I can think of. When we decided to give this a try, I did some measuring and a bit of figuring, all before we even had our Oliver. Since we were lucky and found the hitch at 1/2 price, we basically took a chance, hoping it would work (which it did). We would have been disappointed if we were unable to use our 1up rack. One thing you do need to be aware of is this: there is only a small amount of clearance between the lowest point on the bike rack and the hitch latch on the Oliver. We usually lower the front of the trailer a bit, back the hitch nearly into position and then raise the front of the trailer and carefully drive under it (if that makes sense). After one or two times, this isn't hard to do.

Yup, even if we just emptied tanks, I close the shower valve. Open it at arrival. Part of the list.

FYI, in hull #709, considered a 2021 model (delivered in late 2020) the SP remote is up in what I guess we call the attic - the cabinet above the TV and emergency exit window. It's on the streetside wall pretty close to the cabinet door. And yeah, having slept in there a few nights, I've done some temporary blocking of its flashing (or pulsing up and down if you will as it cycles through the readings) red furnace of hell glow but will be adding some sort of flap that normally covers it but is easily lifted. I haven't used it enough to be able to fully judge the location but it does seem like it would be a tad nicer somewhere like under the switch panel by the door or in the closet on the bath wall but I'm betting moving it or putting a second there will never make it onto my list...

Thank you for starting this thread Trainman. The first and only time we used the AC was a couple of nights on our first outing with the Ollie last October. During that trip there was a popping noise which interrupted my sleep a lot. Initially thought it might be the refrigerator cycling, but did not try to track it down until now. After reading this thread I wondered if the source of the popping was the AC. So I started testing the AC first. After starting my AC it popped in less than ten minutes, then continued to pop about every ten minutes for a couple of hours. It also popped in a couple of minutes after shutting down the AC. As others suggested the simplest explanation appeared to be the diffuser was not able to expand or contract smoothly with changes in temperature. Flexing the edges of the diffuser by pressing different areas produced a lot of popping and crackling and if felt like the edge was grabbing the hull. The diffuser is held in place by eight wood screws and two sheet metal screws. I started backing out each screw a little at a time to see if it would change anything. The pops and crackles were reduced with each iteration. I stopped when a sheet of letter paper could easily slide under all edges. The diffuser is forced to follow the contour of the ceiling so the corners were the last to separate. Immediately after backing out the screws I ran the AC for two hours without popping. Although encouraging I ran the AC a few more hours over a couple of days and still no popping. Now I'm looking at ways the screws can be snugged down without forcing the edges against the ceiling, leaving a thin gap all the way around. The largest gaps occur in the front and back at the center. The back gap is the largest at 2.7mm (measured using two dimes) at the center. I don't think these gaps will cause any issues but maybe a soft gasket could be used to seal these areas. Hopefully others will help confirm whether or not these observations help resolve this issue in their trailers. Suggestions for a permanent fix would also be appreciated. This diagram is from Dometic AC 64767 instructions.

Clams are popular. In cold weather a propane fire pit keeps things warm. I’m not aware of anything that ties into the awning on the new Oliver’s. But, depending on your site you could position a Clam or other screen room close by. Keeping the awning deployed can be interrupted by wind and weather. Mike

Stuff you will need https://www.americansealantsinc.com/adhesivecleanerandremover/ https://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi-335-neutral-cure-silicone-sealantadhesive/ PLASTIC razor blades. Do not use steel. Change these plastic blades often. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper-blades/12038/4753744?pos=17 Remove the steel blade from this holder and insert a plastic razor blade. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/titan-5120/paint—body-repair-16614/body-repair-16510/body—trim-tools-25197/razor-blades-scrapers-17948/1c24653634cf/titan-scraper/12031/4753743?pos=18

Make sure hose is not twisted. It will pull out and go back in much easier. Mark these wires before you unplug them

I’ve been under my sink to realign the faucet after replacing the cartridge. Use plastic razor blades to remove old caulk from the shelf and vanity. ASI 0240 works real well to remove old caulk. ASI 335 is what I just used to reseal my shower pan. I think you’ll need one of these wrenches to keep from having to use a pair of Channellock plies which will mar your new faucet Wrench in use What it looks like under there Be sure to “clock” the faucet centerline so that it is perpendicular to the wall otherwise the wand will either hit the wall or swivel out from above the sink and the hot vs. cold adjustment will be awkward.

Plug converters: We've yet to run into a campsite that didn't have 30a service, though I guess there's one out there. External Surge Protection: If you have the built in then I wouldn't Wheel chock or “X” blocks: We tried the X-chocks and found them to be unreliable and a PITA to use. I prefer the cheapy hard rubber chocks, four of them. Extra 25′ potable water hose: Not necessary to spend extra on these, but they're nice. Jack stand blocks: I use the Camco legos. I should probably find something lighter and less bulky though. External water filters. We have this one but have yet to use it - I wouldn't call it essential, but their 'essential system' would be the one to get. Extra grey water discharge hose: We have a cheap 100' garden hose from Home Depot that I got because it was...grey. For composting toilet: We use regular TP - nothing you get will have time to degrade much all before you dump, so it's really just a question of bulk. We prefer peat over the coco, and just carry three or four gallon ziplocks of it in case we need to dump the toilet while travelling. Tool Kit: I think there are a few lists/threads on it if you search. I carry way too many, and then bring more just in case, so I'll limit my advice to just a decent screwdriver and wrench/socket sets, hex set, some vice grips/pliers, utility knife, etc. A rubber mallet is indispensable for knocking chocks out. A multimeter can be handy. Tire gauge. Gloves. A few repair items are good to have: gorilla tape, assorted zip ties, self fusing silicone tape, butyl tape, screen repair kit, fuses. Cookware: The Magma set is pricey but you won't regret it. Also, also, and also. Utensils: Most of the RV specific things we bought ended up getting quickly replaced by duplicates from our kitchen. For us, there's enough room in the drawers not to worry about space saving products. Here are a few things that we really do like though: tumble trivets, drying mat, wine crate, Dishware: We have these. Cute, but that's about all I can say for them. On my to do list is to find a way to safely carry real dishes. We also end up using paper plates more than we should. I spent a small fortune on Strahl glassware since I figured they're used in restaurants so they'd hold up, but after one trip they were cloudy and covered in scratches. You could probably run over them with a truck though and they'd survive. But we just bought a few of these to try and have high hopes. Utensil and plate organizers: These and these fit the drawers really well. Dish soap and hand soap: We just keep a small bottle of Dawn in the pantry. I'm used to one of these at home for hand soap, so I got one for the trailer. Paper towel dispenser: We love this one. Above the sink with screws and caulk. Inside entrance matt: This fits the space almost perfectly Ground matt at exterior entrance to trailer: This one does the job Extra matt for outside of bath area: Definitely needed - we have this one. Trash receptacle: We bought this but it's too big and we don't do a good job of separating the recyclables. But it does fit well under the dinette and travels well in the shower. We have a tiny little pedal bin from Ikea in the bath but they don't seem to make it anymore. Toiletry organization suggestions: We use these in the bath cabinet. Also these with the clear tops. Any kind of cabinet or closet organizers that are essential: We use these for clothes. If you can find the Rubbermaid bento boxes, the medium size works great in the upper cabinets. Unfortunately it doesn't look like they make them anymore. Toasters: The Breville Mini is one of the few (perhaps the only one?) that fits in the microwave cabinet Coffee maker: Join the dark side. I'm still shocked how good these are. It travels in the sink. Other stuff that we MUST HAVE at pickup??????? Patience.

Dealing with anti-gravity