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Here’s our favorite campsite at COE Bandit’s Roost campground Wilkesboro, NC, site # 28. This site is hard to get, someone must have canceled, allowing us to camp on it earlier this week. It’s been 70’s during the day and upper 40’s at night. The Blue Ridge Parkway is not too far away for a day drive, too. 🙂 Blue Ridge Parkway NC

This is how the current situation got started. Years ago, Oliver’s sales manager asked me to come up with a design for a bike rack. I did and they built a good 2” rack that could handle any two bikes. They informed all buyers of the rack its weight limitations and even had a sticker stating that information proudly displayed on each rack. Oliver built a bunch of these units with my design but ultimately changed it to the current rack first with a 2” receiver then moving down to a 1-1/4” receiver due to “the incident.” Much like the general population, there are a few owners that don’t necessarily read and follow directions. One owner didn’t. He bought one of the racks with the 2” receiver and, although I don’t know exactly what happened, I can imagine him installing one of those flat racks you see hanging off the tail end of a vehicle. He probably loaded a cooler of ice and beer on one end and a plastic tote of whatever beside it, put a coupe of bungees around it and called it good. Somewhere along his way everything proceeds to turn to shite. He complains to Oliver that his expensive rack didn’t meet his expectations, they wonder how it failed if it hadn’t been overloaded, he swears it couldn’t have been, one thing leads to another and here we are… I’ll be happy to share my design with anyone. Although I don’t carry bikes on it, I’ve used it on the rear of our Hull #050 many times carrying upwards of 200 pounds. I’ve never had an issue with it.

We’re heading north to Kansas City for a few days before we head to Tennessee. First stop on our escape from Texas is a nice COE campground near Gordonville on Lake Texoma, Juniper Point Campground. Nice concrete pads on the lake. Very pleasant overnight stay on our way north!

Well after some serious time playing with it, I did get it to work using my Apple TV as the streaming device. You have to disconnect the HDMI cable at the TV and plug in your HDMI streaming device there. Of course you need good wi-fi for it all to work. Once the Apple menu came up I was able to stream but no sound. Took me a minute but you have to turn the volume on the Furion receiver way up and you will finally hear clear sound from the 4 speakers. The receiver should auto set to AV IN. I don’t know why you have to turn it up so much. ( I am talking 4 or 5 turns) but it works when you do. Next item is getting Elon Musk Star Link. We are in NC and they say it will be available in 2023. I placed my order with my $100 deposit. When you get it, you set it up at your home and it can replace your existing internet provider. I have seen some using it at campgrounds and they love it. Second it has an RV feature where you pay another $15 per month while traveling and you set it up anywhere. Even with the extra $15 it is still cheaper then other providers. When you get back home they stop charging the extra $15. I saw another thread on here where someone ran the proper wiring and outside port connection for it. Anyone else done this?

Our view this morning from Algonac State Park, Michigan on the Saint Clair River. The MS Hamburg cruise ship sailing from Milwaukee to Windsor. 400 passenger ship. Also caught a shot of this freighter earlier. Algonac State Park is a great park for watching freighters. IMG_8028.MOV

Also if you have the Xantrex Freedom X 3000 you might experience your Honda 2000 getting overloaded. This happened to me. You can change the Xantrex Settings to lower the draw and eliminate the overload. To do this: Turn on your inverter Hold the bottom button for 3 seconds until the readout changes to [00] 1 Press the middle button (^) to toggle through the settings until you get to [28] 25A Press OK until 25A is blinking then press the middle button (^) to toggle through to change the setting to 15A. You will have to go all the up to I think 50A to get back to the lower numbers. This will lower the draw to keep the generator from getting overloaded. When you are back to a 30A power supply you should change this setting back to 25A so your batteries will charge fast.

@rideandfly It’s a beautiful state! Great camping areas.👍🏼

I have done this and it's been working well if I can see open sky, not so much with sites with lots of trees. I believe what you mentioned is an portable plan where you can take your Starlink with you when travelling. I opted for another plan called RV plan where I can pause the service without paying duringoff season. Another reason is that I still need internet service at home while camping for all those smart devices and video cameras. At home, I am using T-Mobile 5G home internet which is $30 a month. Overall, pretty happy with the total cost.

Beautiful! We hope to camp in Michigan next year!

Might be. From an engineering standpoint it is a very bad idea…. The factory design has 0.5” wall thickness. 1/4” wall thickness is inadequate, especially if you install a 1-Up rack which uses an internal steel ball as a rocker stopper. That will eventually wreck the aluminum. If an owner insists on using a knocked out receiver, please, always add a stout cable lock around the bikes and crossbar, in case it all departs unexpectedly. It is easy to bolt on a steel receiver so there are no worries. John Davies Spokane WA

Oh I haven't decided yet, I know It's a matter of personal preference, but here’s why I’m leaning towards the Airhead.. Diversion system allows emptying of liquids without opening the solids tank More comfortable toilet seat Stronger fan In-line screen on ventilation hose Can specify fan housing angle More gaskets around lid to prevent smell Handles/lid on solids tank (no lid I think on the NH?) Airhead crank handle vs NH drill press style handle

Hull 806 here.... I have the same model generator....are you using a neutral bonding plug? This is a must have. You can buy them...I made one via youtube and it works fine.

Mike - yes it is! We especially like the Ouray Brewery. Where are you going in TN? If you are up near LBL (Land Between the Lakes), let me know. We are about 10 miles from Paris Landing State Park and really enjoy LBL. The have a drive-through Bison and Elk preserve which is amazing. Also, plenty of NFS and COE camping. Safe Travels. Brian

This project is to create an inlet port for Starlink cable into the attic where I put the Starlink router. I decided to repurpose one of those TV/Sat ports. Below are the pictures of the Furrion coax inlets. The left picture is the original and the right one is modified by drilling a big hole using hole saw. This is the waterproof RJ45 inlet port I got from Amazon. Next steps are removing old Furrion and enlarge the cable hole. To my surprise, I found a nice gift from the factory hidden under the seal. No big deal, I can add a little bit of 3M sealant to patch that up. Then install the RJ45 connector, left picture is from the outside, right is from the inside. This is what it looks like after putting back the cover. Next is to fish the cable from attic down to the belly near the furnace and pull it along the back and plug into the RJ45 inside port. You will have to cut the cable and install RJ45 male connectors. There are a few video on YouTube about this. Then plug it in at the RJ45 female at the inside of the inlet. The cable end from the dish will be on the outside. Plug the router in and enjoy fast Internet!

It always bothered me especially when getting ready to use the shower the amount of cold water coming out of the faucet and heading to the grey water tank. So when Overland put up a post back on January 3 titled Truma Comfort Plus via Modification, it got me thinking. I went out to the Oliver and tested actually how long and how much water was being used before getting hot water to the faucet. My results were 14 seconds and a volume of one quart and I thought that's not that bad. But then why does it bother me when I'm standing there waiting and then I think about how I'm just transferring my fresh water to the grey water tank and how many gallons go this way during a camping trip. So for the next week the subject was percolating in my mind and I came up with some ideas and settled on what I thought would be feasible solution. I installed a normally closed solenoid operated stainless steel water valve. I made a bracket out of stainless steel that I attached to the valve and then utilized the four bolts that were protruding through the front of the camper that help secure the cover for the propane tanks. I installed a tee in the hot water supply line just in front of the faucet and run 1/2" pex between it and the valve. Next I ran 1/2" line following the black tank drain pipe towards the back of the trailer and crossing over to the curb side and then teeing in to the line that fills the fresh water tank. Next I planed on putting a switch to operate the valve next to the switch that is mounted on the vanity towel rack that operates the water pump. I wanted to avoid standing there and holding the switch so I found a programmable multi function time delay relay module UCTRONICS model U6030 to allow me to accomplish this. This module is inexpensive about $12.99 but is very flexible ,it has 18 programmable delay modes with two settable timers. The static current is just 5.5 mA. I wanted this module to only be powered up when the water pump was turn on so I brought power from the water pump relay, this way both switches activated the module. This module also needs to have a 12 volt power supply to operate the water valve, so I ran a wire from a unused slot in the fuse box under the dinette, the valve draws 1 1/2 amps. I was a little worried about getting the module programmed for my needs, we all know how Chinese instructions are poor due to the language translations, but it went really well. IMG_1387.MOV I mounted the module in a 4"x4" waterproof box and put that under the front dinette seat,that way I had access to it in case I need to change programming. The last picture is of the vanity and the switches for the water pump and the water diverter valve. I used a waterproof switch I had and I plan on replacing it with a smaller easier to push model. I'm happy with the way it works, flip the water pump on then push the other switch and release, you hear the water pump start and run for 15 seconds, it will shut off and you have hot water at the faucet.

OK folks, I have heard many people asking when/if they can upgrade their current air conditioner with a Truma Aventa Eco and, until now, it hasn't been possible. I am just passing this along. I have no idea IF an Oliver is eligible but from what I can see, it seems like Truma is willing to install at one of their service centers. This is not an endorsement, just passing it along. Brian

This seems to be a fairly new to the USA composting(?) toilet but common to Europe. Looks like it was released in the USA fall 2018. I'm hesitant to say it's composting since all it does is dry out the solids but are RV composting toilets truly composting or just hiding the smell. There's no composting material, no stirring mechanism. But it looks easy to clean and it looks like it would be easy to plumb into the black tank. The few reviews that I've seen are favorable. I'm still researching options for a new trailer. https://separett-usa.myshopify.com/products/villa-9210-dc

I came here just to say this. Colorado sun is intense, and tire temperature fluctuates up 5-8 degrees!

I did not see an open slot on my Oli for another fuse. I used fish tape and went from the kitchen seat, and routed towards the center of the Oli. Plenty of space. I just had to reach down through the cabinet to pull the fish tape up.

Another excellent option for waterproof RJ45 port from Neutrik. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L46SRCQ https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019LPMOTY

John sorry I'm confused, you say I can connect the NH flex vent hose to the existing ABS/black tank vent, why would I then terminate the black tank vent? Here's what I want to do, do you mean I have to cap/terminate it below the "Y" connection so it vents directly to the roof and not into the black tank? Oh and what do you mean by "a new overboard vent line for the black tank is added"?

I have hull number 262 and the Furrion DV3200 receiver radio and Furrion FEHD19S0 A TV. The DV3200 has an output HDMI on the rear that connects to the 1, HDMI input on the TV. This setup processes the DVD digital audio signal through the Furion and speakers and digital video to the TV. Problem is there is no second HDMI input for a streaming device on the receiver. I have read where some have been able to configure to stream but I am wondering if those have different components then mine. For example the Furrion DV1230 has an HDMI input on the front and an HDMI output on the back so as long as this unit allows you to switch from DVD input to front HDMI input, it should work for connecting a device like an Apple TV. But while a call to Furrion was helpful, it was not conclusive. I plan to get StarLink for Internet but i am first trying to solve the streaming problem. Note: there are RCA jacks coming from the TV to the cabinet above but that is analog like for a VCR and not digital. Has anyone had success here? If so please list your model number equipment. Thanks in advance.

This is not good! It violates code, and may cause serious problems. You should seal the cap properly and install a 3/4” vent/ overflow line which connects near the top of the black tank and goes out the belly (just like your fresh tank). Your design allows somebody to connect unregulated city water to the black flush port, which will probably rupture your tank or drain plumbing, which is not designed to contain that kind of pressure. A large drain line will also allow your tank to drain correctly, which it won’t do as it is now (it will “glug glug glug” back through the drain pipe). Also you need to add a 2.5 or 3 amp inline fuse to the toilet power wire, as per Natures Head’s instructions, to protect that small gauge wire. The awning fuse is probably 15 or 20 amps! The water pump switch is fine, but I am not sure why you felt it was needed, you can simply unplug the round connector from the toilet vent fan, you have to do that when servicing the compost tank anyway. Normally you leave the fan running 24/7 when there is human waste in it, otherwise it gets gross inside. John Davies Spokane WA

LOL and then there is this guy who loves the Tiny!

Nope. The barrier is part of the toilet, and too low, imo. No leftover pieces, anywhere. We're pretty good at reading and following instructions. 🙂 I've "mastered " the villa. It's a long learning curve. I would still not recommend it, for an Ollie. And certainly not for a bathroom with many guest users. It's too big, for one thing. I've not seen the Tiny in person, which would probably fit, but I've read a number of negative reviews. it's a very expensive portapotty, imo. If I were you, I'd be looking carefully at the nature's head, as so many people here really like it.

Keep in mind your day length in October, it is really hard to recharge with only a little DIRECT exposure when you only have maybe nine hours of adequate sun. The first hours at dawn and dusk don’t contribute any power. It is much easier in summer when the sun is more directly overhead for many more hours. The panels don’t work much if partially shaded…. Consider using a portable panel so you can “chase” any bright spots near your site. You can modify a standard unit so it will work fine fifty feet or more away from your shaded Ollie. This is especially true for your LE1 since you have less built-in capacity both in the batteries and in the roof panels... Here is my 100 watt Renogy panel. This size unit, tilted and directly facing the sun, potentially increases your 240 watts of roof solar power by 40%. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5478-how-to-remote-mount-the-controller-of-a-suitcase-solar-panel-not-inside-the-trailer/ But a 1000 watt gennie (using the onboard converter) charges much much faster than an extra panel ever could…. John Davies Spokane WA

For the Newer Owners: Absolutes always bite me in the wrong place every time.... Another "time" is when your LiFePO4's could be subjected extreme cold and could themselves freeze. Frozen Litho's for sure do not like to be at full charge, and "absolutely" should not be charged by any system in that state. GJ

This is probably what you're looking for:

To alleviate confusion, I split the three responses from Elite 1 owners to a new thread, even though each clearly identified themselves as Elite I owners. Obviously, with a different trailer, single axle and two tires, our requirements will be different. I looked through the responses to the poll, and clearly, mostly Elite II owners responded to the poll, with the vast majority running 50 to 60 pounds. I'd say the poll pretty clearly shows most Elite Ii owners are now running at the current Oliver recommended pressure, somewhere plus or minus 55. Only 2 Elite owners that I saw actually responded to the poll, so it's pretty irrelevant to the numbers.

Early hulls had it hard mounted at the back corner of the curb side bed (with no flip up mount).I cracked my skull on it a couple of times making the bed, and removed the entire TV and mount the day I got home. I did not give it away, it is wrapped and stored away because I thought some future owner might like to put it back. After seven years the TV is so far out of date, I guess that is now wishful thinking, I should just toss it. Anyone want a free old unused TV and mount? It's in perfect condition except for a blood stain and some of my scalp on one corner 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

We explore surrounding areas during the day when camping and watch TV before going to bed. I tried connecting Roku to the Furrion unit's HDMI connection on the front of the unit and it would not work. I will check the operators manual, but believe Furrion's HDMI may be an output. The HDMI on the back of the Jensen TV is an input receiving signal from the Furrion unit how our LE2 #75 was set up from Oliver. Have not tried this but the HDMI input on the back of the Jensen TV should work with a device like Roku with correct TV setting, should be HDMI.

I am not using cable to connect my TV to the router. I am using WiFi. My setup is very simple. Starlink provides WiFi access to TV and phones. For Netflix, I am using Netflix app in the TV itself to stream. For anything else, I am using my iPhone and connect it to the existing HDMI port in the back of the TV. This way, I can also get audio out to all speakers if I select "Optical" audio input at the Furrion. Please let me know if you have any questions. Hope this helps.

Nice writeup, thanks for posting all the pics! Cracked or broken gelcoat is due to an undersized hole or not heavily countersinking it before driving in the screw. Both are due to sloppy work….. Another option for access is to remove either of the two round red reflectors that are just above the ends of the sewer compartment. They aren't very visible anyway. I ran wires for my rear bike rack aux lighting that way. Some of the factory wiring is a little unsightly, isn’t it?😢 John Davies Spokane WA

SeaDawg Moderators Posted May 22 So, I came across this the other day-- Separett's new Tiny composting toilet. As toilets go, it's rather pretty and sleek. And small. But a big capacity. And, like all the other composting toilet, a pretty big price tag. Comes in two versions, with a urine hose, or with a urine tank. Vent adaptor from Swedish 50 mm to us 1.5 inch vent pipe. Seat height is about 3" lower than nature's head. I wonder if the odor from the fan would really be any worse than the odor from the nature's head fan, or the vent stack from the Oliver black tank? I'm sure I'll see it pop up on one of the youtuber sites soon. I saw this on the Air Forums and thought of you and your post about the Separett Tiny. https://www.airforums.com/forums/f446/part-l-tmi-review-of-the-separett-tiny-1270-01-a-224421.html Mossey