Leaderboard

We (moderators) zap them as soon as we see them and ban them permanently. The site admins are working to figure out why all of a sudden these last couple of days has been so bad. Mike

Registration has been suspended temporarily while we address the issues. Whack a mole game over.

We received our VMAX batteries today. They are a tight fit in our 2019 LEII battery tray so I will need to use a different tie down strap. The metal hook for the tray is just a might too wide. I may go with an alternative looped strap instead or modify the existing strap. I also will have to order 2 new 4/0 gauge battery cables to allow sufficient bend of the cable because the M8 post and normal post are closer together so it is hard to fit the adapter Oliver used on the post far enough down on the post to insure it will stay pit. I only have this issue on the positive sides of the parallel connection but it is recommended that the interconnect always be the same gauge and length. After I finish the install I will attach a picture of the final install.

This site is getting overrun by bots/SPAM! Is it time to block any more new user ID creation & sign ups until a better new member verification system can be put in place?

You can try to ban him, but….

I'M NOT BANNING ARNOLD, you ban him. 😄

cyborg scum!🤬

The Mods get to play Whac-A-Mole!

It seems to be normal, unless it does not change to E0. See snip from Manual below.

No. The larger hitch provides more margin but the 2” works fine without the Andersen. I’d like to have the 2 5/16” and may do it at some point. We’ve used the 2” for 7 years and it’s still more than adequate. Also, we’ve towed about 30K without the Andersen and have not had a single issue. High winds, large trucks, etc, no issues. Mike

GJ, I agree. Just in case the sun doesn't cooperate, the take-along Champion 2500 Dual Inverter is insurance as we cannot be deprived of our creature comforts. I also take a 1000 watt Yeti AND a 300 watt Jackery. After many cloudy days boondocking in Colorado a few years ago in a Sprinter Airstream, we actually NEEDED the 1000 watt Yeti as our Sprinter battery and four BBs ran "too low" to supply the needed 12.6 volts to kick in the solenoid for the onboard generator. We plugged into the 1000 Yeti as if it was shore power and used it to boost to 12.6 so we could start the onboard gen to charge everything back up... Damn, that old Onan was noisy 🤔 Charlie.

Charlie: You are making a very salient point. As Solar and Lithium technologies adoption and capabilities increase, the use of generators is being greatly reduced. For our vintage of OTT, solar as a factory option priced us out. So boondocking made having a Honda EU 2000 essential. Now, in our case with 3 each 100 aH Battleborns, a 200w solar suit case, an upgraded PD converter, and an Orion DC/DC 30 amp charger we generally go 2 to 3 days without even unloading our Honda or needing shore power. This gives us much greater "power security". Point is that having a "Honda" is now very nice to have, not really essential. This opens the door to purchase of less pricy generators. A significant paradigm change. GJ

Don’t tell me we have to ban Arnold too!!

You've been bitten more than twice??? C'mon Frank. 😊

The Honda’s require a neutral/ground bonding plug that is inserted into the generator outlet that is not supplying power to the trailer. Search YouTube for Mike Sokol. He has some valuable information. Mossey

REF: Champion 2500 Watt Inverter: $484 Amazon Prime Dual fuel 38 pounds Super Quiet 2500 watts start and run rating AMAZING! 🙂 It sure isn't a "Hammer Mill" like this grandpa's was!

If you have blocked your tail and brake lights for some reason, with a big cargo box for example, you need to add aux lighting to be safe and legal. I added an LED light bar here: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6848-how-to-add-a-full-width-led-light-bar-to-your-bike-rack-when-your-bike-blocks-the-trailer-lights/ The factory wires are easy enough to access underneath the rear cargo floor, near the side door, but the colors do NOT match "industry standard" color coding. Not even close. This is based on my 2017 LE2, yours may differ. Oliver stopped providing wiring diagrams a few years ago, please complain to Sales! I made this chart showing the differences. Why they did this is beyond comprehension. This is from the lightbar thread, it shows the CableClam in the exact location of the left round red reflector. Be VERY careful drilling holes here ... ... because directly on the other side there are water lines and electrical cables: To access the wires, remove the rubber floor sheet and the several tiny screws holding down the floor panel. Remove any cable ties, black electrical tape and peel away the protective split loom material. You will see some wire buses and also the two water ports and check valves. My two larger buses each had a free spot, so I could just strip the appropriate wire and push it into place. The other three wires had to be spliced directly into the Oliver wires. A little confusion here, the separate LED light bar Back Up wire was white, so it is important to keep track of the wire's purpose - function supersedes the actual color at all times! AFTER testing to make sure all your lights work .... OLIVER Bike Rack LED Light Bar Initial Test .... reinstall the split loom and secure everything well with nylon wire ties. Don't forget the big bundles that run along the back wall, mine were completely loose. Double check your lights to make sure they still work. Put the floor and rubber sheet back in. Go have a beer. I hope this helps. It is infuriating when colors do not match industry standards. ESPECIALLY IF YOUR TRAILER MANUAL HAS NO WIRING DIAGRAMS!!! John Davies Spokane WA

By the way, if you ever have a chance to visit the SPAM Museum in Austin, MN it's worth the stop. However, do NOT let your cat sample some of the more unusual flavors. (Worst pet flatulence ever!)

Ok Owners, we still have not heard from you if you have one of these (and maybe others). Likely some of the below are duplicates, and many appear to be knock-offs. Regardless they are options that did not exist a few years ago so an update is desired. General Generac GenMax Yamaha Cummings Westinghouse Wen maXpeedingRod Please chime if you have one of these, or others that may be out there. Here is a link to a rather biased "review" (of sorts) by one author: https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/best-inverter-generator-for-rv?targetid=dsa-19959388920&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=14938899091&creative=552785546059&adgroupid=131352087307&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9032812&loc_interest_ms=&network=g&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwJWdBhCYARIsAJc4idA_mIXoxat0WYNwsLz21nBgUkpw14WnLAE77N1nGfWewxzVZ-1agb4aArFUEALw_wcB GJ

Good question. I appreciate you calling me on it. I want to be safe on the road but would like to avoid a WDH if prudent. I see that others with similar TV's have chosen not to install the Andersen. Are there others out there that feel the same? The Oliver is new to us, the only road experience we have is the trip home 100 miles up I-95 and it followed like a dream. We will be leaving soon for an extended trip of 2,000 miles. That being said, if we opt out on the Andersen is it necessary to replace the 2" Bulldog hitch with the 2 5/16"?

CONGRATS and HAPPY TRAVELS!!!!

I tow with a Ram 2500 and feel no need at all to use an Andersen. For almost 6 years my tow vehicles were a Tacoma and two Ram 1500s, I used the Andersen with all three. With this 2500 no need at all. Mike

Doesn’t your Oliver have a Hull # plaque inside the entry door?

Pretty much the same as the ikea skubb we've used for 15 years, except that ikea has little fabric skubb drawers that we use for underwear, t shirts, etc. I won't add another link, as I've added it several times before . if you have an ikea store nearby, its a great resource. Or, order online. Back to the original topic, the op had a great idea . I think we'll look at it!

In cold months , we have a place for boots inside the door. Two pair of boots fit on the mat, under the closet door, and stay relatively warm for the morning. (In mild weather, the boots stay outside, or in the truck bed ) I change out wool socks for yoga socks overnight if temps are mild. If not, change to lighter weight smartwool socks. I hate cold feet.

Thank you😃

I fixed it. If you have time, can you check to see if it was done correctly. Thanks for the step by step directions. I did it on my phone so I couldn't left click. John

left click on your avatar left click on "account settings" on the right side of the next screen - left click on "signature" left click on "save" Bill

Time to change that signature! 😀

Had a bit of a delay coordinating with a friend to use his drill press. With the aid of John’s detailed instructions, here was my installation. First a couple of pics of the receiver, showing how the steel channel sides are not strictly parallel and the top is slightly bent or shallowly “U” shaped. Another pic shows the weld at the rear of the reinforcement steel tube. That weld prevents the Oliver aluminum tongue from sliding forward to directly contact the steel tube within the receiver hitch. If you force the receiver onto the aluminum tongue the forward section of the receiver is raised by the height of the weld. Good luck getting accurate measurements for drilling if that occurs. To measure for drilling I set the receiver onto the tongue in a stable manner then scribed lines onto the aluminum tongue along the bottom and rear edges of the receiver. Measurements to center of the bolt holes were then made and recorded. After a friend drilled the receiver holes with a drill press, I found that the rearward holes lined up well but the forward holes were ~2 mm off on street side and ~1 mm off on curbside. Then it was a matter of enlarging the holes for a proper fit. Once aligned there was priming, final paint coats and installation. Thank you, John Davies for this two year old valuable thread.