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BLUF*: If you are just starting to look at DIYing Oliver electrical projects, and are not experienced with major electrical surgery, then I suggest reading further. As an Oliver DYI guy, I have relied heavily on more electrically inclined owner's guidance and suggestions. This forum has been invaluable in planning and execution of the installation of my Houghton, Battleborns, Victron 712 Smart, DC to DC Charging, and 3,000 watt inverter projects to name a few. A common thread of each of these projects have been the use of electrical cable, lugs, and specialized tools. As a Mechanical Engineer, I have always purchased very high quality tools and materials for my mechanical efforts. But for electrical efforts, I was far less informed. Frankly, my electrical hand tools were junk, my electrical lugs were Chinese Junk, and my hammer actuated lug crimper was not up to the task either. Worse, I would not know a quality cable if you hit me over the head with it. Then came Ollie. I knew I wanted my Ollie DYI efforts to be first rate and I had to learn about electrical tools and materials. But that process took a lot of time and effort. So good choices were made only because I listened to the DYI Owners who had already plowed the path. But what I did not really understand was why the high quality (and expensive) electrical components they recommended really do justify the higher costs. So, for the new to the DYI Oliver electrical system upgrade team, the below rather long winded video will fill in some of the voids. Shameless Plug: I do highly recommend and use: Kline Tools, Blue Sea Systems (anything) and BatteryCables USA (Pure Copper Cables, Lugs, Heat Shrink) GJ * NOTE: Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF)

I recently did a fairly deep dive on lithium battery powered leaf blowers in attempting to come up with the best blower to use after washing our rig. I wanted a cordless blower since I occasionally wash our truck and Ollie while on the road. Yep, we like a clean rig, just us.😊 This YouTuber does a a pretty decent in-depth comparison of (8) battery powered blowers. His info helped me finally decide to purchase the EGO Lithium powered 765. So today with my Lowe’s Veterans discount I paid $296.10 for the EGO 765 with charger, 56v battery and attachment's. I ordered the shorter nozzel/tube with silicone tip soft tip off Amazon. This shorter nozzel/tube seems to be much easier way to maneuver the blower while drying a car or truck. The 765 will travel with us in the bed of our truck. After charging the battery and briefly testing out the EGO 765 on our rain soaked Ford Ranger today, I am initially very impressed with its water removal/drying power. It will be interesting to see how well it will perform regarding battery run time on our rig. I will post up additional info after putting the EGO 765 through its paces. A clean shiny rig makes a for a happy rig owner!😄 Patriot🇺🇸 https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=ego leaf blower https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQMR622L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

John, the Marine Corps put me through nearly a year of training (AE A & AE B) to become an aircraft electrician, and I continue to learn from great posts like yours. Thanks and keep them coming.

I'm really glad you raised this issue. After playing with the tires as I described above, I (dumbly) really never thought about how to handle the situation should/when it ever occur(s). You bring up a very good and logical solution using your spare blocks of wood as dunnage between the springs and the frame. I think I'll try my test again, this time paying closer attention to what the clearances are but, this should work. I may make some custom blocks (two would be all you'd need) for the worst case scenario. I'm sure you thought of this, but I most certainly would put the spare onto the rear axle.

Although 4 years is on the short end of the optimal lifespan for wet cell batteries, replacing just one battery in the bank will ultimately be "penny wise and pound foolish." In your shoes, I would "bite the bullet" and invest in a completely new battery bank. And, if you can afford it now, I would upgrade to lithium.

The Line-X is probably not necessary with the bed slide and anyway, it further reduces your cargo capacity. The cap and the bed-slide will take about 5-6 hundred pounds of it anyway but they both are well worth the reduction, in view of security and ease of access to the contents. This will be a sweet set-up for you.

There is a switch on the EMS display that will allow power (from any source) to bypass the EMS. You can feel reasonably confident that the power coming from your own generator is safe and switch the bypass on so you can at least get power while you're figuring this all out. I can't see any reason that what the RV repair guy did could have caused this. I assume you're using the front generator hook-up. There's a transfer switch (under the front dinette seat) that SHOULD activate once it senses power being applied to that port (you should hear a click from the contact points inside). If the transfer switch is bad that would be the problem.

Great suggestion, where possible! May as well look at filling up the back seat of the Crew Cab with heavy pantry or tools. Driving slowly with flashers to a better location is one to be sure to keep top of mind. Maybe fire off the rear view trailer camera and monitor any traffic impacts the situation may generate while slowly retreating to a safer location. Maybe pressurizing your spare tire to it's max pressure to take on all the load it can. Maybe consider the condition of your spare tire? Maybe it should be mounted on the opposite side if it is old but pretty and the other side has newer tires. What else? GJ

John, I’d also dump the water and possibly the gray water to reduce overall weight.

Steve: Good test for visual understanding of the problem. Not much clearance between our tires and fiberglass. For discussion purposes, let's say are well away from any assistance. We hit something that destroys both right side tires. We only have a single spare tire. What would you do? I would: Try to slow down ASAP, deploy 4-way flashers, and quickly pull over if reasonably safe to do so. Deploy a visual warning well behind the trailer. Likely my wife with a red T-shirt and flag. Grab lug wrench and loosen both tires lug nuts slightly. Use Oliver jacks to raise the trailer tires off the ground on the blown side. Remove the blown tires/rims. Place dunnage between the springs and frame to try and keep clearance when lowered. ( I have 11 each 2"X6" short boards in a milk crate that I use for leveling OE2) Install spare tire and lower jacks so that the axle is supported by the dunage and frame Proceed slowly to a safer location and deal with the two blown tires. What have I missed? What would you do differently? GJ

A few years ago, out of curiosity, I took one tire off the port side of the Oliver and let the jack all the way down till only the one wheel and tire was supporting that entire side of the trailer. This was back when I still had about 270 pounds of AGM batteries in the box. The remaining tire was nearly touching the wheel well cover. If you had a catastrophic loss of a single tire on an LEII with AGM batteries you might should expect some damage to that cover. Were it to get into the wheel well proper and go through the fiberglass, you could end up with a mell of a hess. It might be to your advantage to check this at home under a controlled situation so you will have some expectation of what will occur should you ever lose a tire rapidly. Something to consider when trying to determine the best pressure to run in the tires. You can run low to support the actual weight assuming four good tires, take a chance on the odds and hope for the best or you could run a little higher pressure to mitigate some of the odds. I've never considered "hope" to be a valid strategy.

Please post up what you learn from service. It will be invaluable feedback for everyone. I feel sure they will get you taken care of quickly.👍🏻😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Yes. have been using a Bonding Neutral plug since I got it. I have been using the generator for power to the trailer for the past 5 winters, as that's when I use the Oly most. I take it skiing. I just learned from Service that I need to record the messages on the EMS LED when switched on. It displayed an error message and some other info. I checked the circuit breaker panel for issues and found none. Thank you for your suggestions and keep them coming if you know how to get this thing working again.

A neutral bonding plug plugs in to one of the 120V receptacles on your generator. It looks like the image below. Your Oliver electrical system will not accept power from a generator without one:

Are you using a Bonding Neutral plug with your generator? Sometimes referred to as an "Edison Plug"

Although all of my 2020 OLEll outlets are wired with 12 gauge wire and 20A breakers, I would still be hesitant to use the Oliver’s exterior outlet for that particular Ninja. I think best to just utilize one of the remaining outlets at the shore power post, separate from the one supplying power to your RV. Either a 30A and/or 50A male to 20A female dogbone cord adaptor would suffice, plus an appropriately sized extension cord (10 gauge) would be my recommendation. As you know, some CGs provide only 30A in loops for smaller trailers, whereas others will have both a 30A and 50A, or only 50A for loops servicing larger rigs. Even in the case when only a single RV service (30/50) is provided, there is usually a 110 outlet/breaker available, as well, that may or may not be sufficient to meet your stated needs. Personally, I’m more concerned about being able to hookup the 30A RV service cord to household current, as thus carry a locking 30A female to 20A female reducer, in addition to a 50A to 30A reducer, a 20A male to 30A female dogbone cord adaptor, and a variety of extension cords.

I have the same adapter I’ve used for years that I plug the 30Amp cable into

Do you have your neutral ground plug - plugged into the generator?

Unfortunately the general wisdom is that all batteries should be of approximately the same age. Sorry. Bill

There's a good chance that construction debris has found its way into the drain line and probably all the way down to the valve itself. If there's water still in the tank, I'd raise the front of the trailer several inches, open the drain valve, use an air nozzle to blow air into the drain tube from under the trailer to try to force the junk back into the tank. You'll know you've been successful if water flows out of the drain. Of course there's always the chance of re-occurrence, but it might be a long time coming (like in that CSN song). You'd be more likely to be able to get it out if, when you cut the drain line to install the electric valve, leave it draining for a bit to see if it will come out the straight line without the valve in it. Yes, you will be draining the water into the hull, but it will quickly run out the hole left from removing the line where it goes out through the bottom of the hull. Besides, to the best of my knowledge, there's no wires in that area of the bottom hull, just water lines.

Oh my goodness I needed this….love this video so much!! It’s been a rough week for John and I, we lost our sweet dog Dolly a few days ago, our hearts are broken.💔 I wish you all a very Merry Christmas. Blessings and good health in the New Year.🎄

Hohoho!! Well maybe not. 🎅😂

Merry Christmas Eve from Farmersville, TX! D, the boys, and I've been here for a week now - it's been raining about 50% of the time. In fact, the rain started last night around 2230 and has yet to stop. Glad to report that "Casa Blanca" is dry as a bone inside. We've kept the bathroom window and ceiling fan vent open (fan not running) and the MaxxAir fan blowing in "Air Out" mode at 10% RPM: result - absolutely no condensation on windows or bulkheads! Right now, enjoying some breakfast wine while D's learning how to crochet... HO, Ho, ho! Cheers, All! @topgun2:PS - Bill, just "Ravel'n On", Ha! TKX!

I had the same thing happen to me at a nearby campground. We pulled in with the lithiums about 50% discharged and plugged into the 30 amp pedestal. Initially everything was fine but then I could hear the xantrex cooling fan turning on and off every 30 secs. I also got a communication error with my xantrex remote panel. I later did a software update on my xantrex and the problem never occurred again. I later learned from the campgrounds website that the 30 amp hookup was rated at 20 amps. I didn’t think it was my ems because it was cycling too quickly. My advice would be to try to reproduce the issue with another power source. Another possible solution would be to decrease the breaker rating on your xantrex phone app to 15 amps from 25 amps.

To all my friends and the whole Oliver family tree: Merry CHRISTmas and a Partridge In A Pear Tree…

The more I look, the more places I find to put it

[postquote quote=175221][/postquote] I agree about doing it yourself. [postquote quote=175233][/postquote] The video I watched on the CargoGlide install shows them drilling holes. Not something I’m looking forward to doing to a new Duramax, but I’d rather me do it than some installer.