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I caught this on FB today. Oliver crew is celebrating the 1500th Ollie to roll off the line. I'm very happy for everyone at Oliver. I wonder who will get this hull #?

I'm happy to hear you got good service from eTrailer. I ordered a new MaxxFan Deluxe from them a year or so ago simply because it was a few dollars cheaper than Amazon and had free shipping. When It came in and I installed it, there was a problem and it would not work. When I call eTrailer to see about an exchange, I was informed that it was now considered a warranty issue and I would have to contact and deal with MaxxAir myself as they did not do exchanges or returns on warrantied products. As The Who said in 1971, I ... 'Won't Get Fooled Again'

There’s quite a few being loaded out for dealers each week. I read somewhere, maybe Facebook, that the first LE2 arrived at the new dealership in Petersburg Indiana the other day and was sold in 24 hours!🤩

Over the past 16 years, I've been taken to many nooks and crannies in that building. It's so vast that you really need a golf cart to easily get around. I've even spent a couple of nights inside a while back when they were doing service on my Hull #050. It's kinda creepy inside it at night when you think you're all alone and yet you hear voices beyond and above you. Turned out it was something completely normal and not evil boo hags or haints, apparently the resident poltergeists keep those away. I have never asked what percentage is not being used, but now that service has left for the new service center away from the factory there is that area that could be utilized. I would guess they are using about 2/3-3/4 of their floor space.

Electric Floor Warming Mat would fix that! On our OE2, there is a plug just between the bathroom entrance and the wardrobe. Plugin and enjoy! At least until it becomes an electrifying experience. Maybe a low voltage water proof rated one would be a safer choice. Or you could use it to stand your hair up for a Halloween frightful hair style. 🙂

We're not naming ours, so the name is yours if you want it! Yes, you certainly have a very special "One-Off" Oliver and the door on hull 113 six years later is quite different, I guess a Lippert door. The hinge top of pic is the friction hinge. The riveted one below it the original door hinge. Three original, 2 friction and the whole length is now hinged for a very strong installation.

I have been a Campendium user for several years. Last year they changed their membership policy and I added Roadtripper to my account. Roadtripper is a trip planning app. Roadpass is the key to enter into their premium membership program features. I use Campendium to find campgrounds and Roadtripper to plan my route and find things of interest along the way. Is it worth the money? I try not to help people spend their money so I won’t say, but I will renew my membership next month. After all, someone has to stimulate the economy. Mossey

That's exactly what I meant by, "...as big as they deem practical."

Congrats to you. We are #1290, one of the last hulls made in 2022. We love ours. Hope you have miles of smiles to come. John

The salespeople need to know the product and engage.

Congratulations Oliver!

@Ronbrink, that's a marvelous solution to clean drinking water and some winter camping situations. It looks really pricey, at first, at roughly $300 for the can and replacement filters, but 500 gallons of clean water for $300 is less than you'd pay in the grocery store, and no wasteful packaging. After the first round, replacement filters were 5 for $40 on their website. Now, 6 cents a gallon. Smart improvement. Cpuld be very useful for some folks. Thanks for sharing.

There is a hand pump (black cap nearest doorway), it twists to ‘lock’ and ‘unlock’ a pump mechanism. Generally takes 10-12 strokes when using the shower handle.

Cool. Cuz I'm 1504. Can't wait.

It’s the plugs that cost the money. The ones for the LEII were $1M each x four. The bigger plugs for a larger trailer would probably cost even more. From the plugs they make a mold. Each mold is good for just so many hull pulls. After each mold’s useful life is gone, it is scraped and another one built. As new exterior or interior changes are made to the hulls, the plugs are modified to include these changes in future builds. They could build a trailer as big as they deem practical.

There’s 800,000 square feet in their factory building. Jim Oliver was forward thinking man as are his sons that are currently running the businesses he left behind. There’s plenty of room for future expansion if they so choose.

The battery(ies) could be subject to bouncing around in there? 😬

GJ, when I read the OP’s statement that the battery tray would have to be removed to accommodate his new battery, my thought was the same as your original comment. I’m sorry you took it personal and my response compelled you to make a change, that was not my intent. I was actually referring to the differential cost of available batteries in today’s market in an attempt to convey that the choice of battery is a personal preference, and cost is oftentimes an irrelevant factor in achieving one’s goals. Your very rational assessment regarding battery securement based on personal experience and professional engineering background is spot on, as was your closing statement, and much appreciated. However, you lost me at “high amplitude multiple directional accelerations”! ps: edited my response, as well, thanks!

WHAT! How on earth could THAT happen? We're here - aren't we? 😁

Awesome. Wonder when that photo was taken. Was there Monday for service work.

I purchased two LiTime 230Ah batteries last summer, and added a transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on lithium when underway or at the storage facility; no more breaking out the genny for these brief stays! My former battery bank consisted of four 6V Trojan T105s, definitely an upgrade with a significant increase in useable power and huge reduction in weight! The Epoch 460Ah featured in Will’s video is very impressive being ‘all inclusive’, but at a cost double (based on current sale pricing) that of my LiTime purchase. That said, the saying ‘you get what you pay for’ probably rings true. Having all of the ‘bells and whistles’ in a single package may be appealing and in fact necessary for some, but not for me. I also installed a Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring via the VictronConnect app, along with applicable fuses and bus bar; having individual components is appealing to me. I especially like that the LiTimes are a good fit in the battery tray, a convenience not worth sacrificing! I would suggest adding a platform for proper weight distribution if one decides to remove the tray; the fiberglass battery compartment bottom alone may not be supportive enough.

Buy Amazon used when you can! The "Like New" ones are now under $15! I bought this used set, and the parts had not been touched. The tape on the box was cut to open, re-taped, but nothing else. I have saved well over $1000 on 30+ Amazon used items in the last few years! If too used, just return it. This has only happened to me twice in 30+ items. Yours is an older hull, and our hull 113 is 6 years newer. Maybe you have a different make door. I have heard the older Olivers were built one-off. Just to be sure, have the friction hinge spread to the 90 degree position and hold the door frame all the way open. This way mine snapped into place. I can show you a picture of mine tomorrow, if you like, and post a picture of your door hinges for comparison so we can see if the brand/model is truly different.

GJ yes, the cable is 1.5M or 5 FT. Not sure on waterproof, not advertised as such though the case is a 2-piece plastic tight snap fit where a moist location is likely OK. I don't see that you would need to run it to the propane tanks. Just connect it to your charger under the dinette and it should work. A taller location is better than low and closer. I don't see why it would not work anywhere under the dinette though. Mine is sitting on the rear of the batteries. I can read it while driving, read it from my LR window 60 FT away with a Tuff Shed blocking line-of-sight. I can also read it from my truck, when unhitched parked a car length or more in front of the Oliver. If you do want to mount it further, they sell Victron VE.Direct extension cables and on page 3 of this post I have a link to a $6 terminal kit where you can make your own extension cables (and drill only enough to pass a thin cable). Best reception would be to mount the dongle in an upper interior cabinet.

Hear! Hear!

I'll second THAT promotion! Bill

There really hasn't been that much difference in our use of the Ollie wet bath compared to the dry bath in our fifth wheel - except height. At 6', I have to bend over to wash my hair in the Ollie, which I didn't have to do in the fifth wheel, but that isn't specifically because it's a wet bath. We have the OTT-supplied shower curtain to keep the commode area dry while showering. We used to wipe down the walls of the shower enclosure in the fifth wheel just like we wipe down the shower walls in the Ollie now. Not really all that different. (The one thing I really miss was specific to our last fifth wheel. The bathroom was right next to the furnace and there was a floor heat register in the bathroom just outside the shower enclosure. You'd step out of the shower and stand right over that heat vent on cold days. Wonderful.)

Regarding the wet bath/dry bath perspective, we quickly came to the same conclusion as others have. And It's the first thing I bring up when someone says, "I won't have a wet bath". I point out that I don't camp out in the bath, or use it for a library. Ninety-nine percent of our day is spent someplace other than the bathroom. The fact that it's called a wet bath really doesn't change much about the way I use it compared to a similar dry bath. For us it was a non-conversation, just something to be aware of. On the note of how much RV real estate is valued at, I think Oliver knocked it out of the park with how efficiently they met all the needs in such a compact camper. Like someone pointed out, everything has trade-offs, and I think the design of the Oliver campers makes the most gain possible for the trade-offs they chose to work with.

I just ordered a set of these a couple days ago for Ollie-Haus. Our hinges are the new style of course so install should be quick and painless. We've experienced the wind catching the door and quickly realized we needed the extra level of "assist" for protecting the door assembly.

Ron: I caringly rewrote my above thoughts at least a dozen time specifically to be kind and respectful. It was also made in the hopes to highlight that the apparent intent to install larger litho's without the supporting and securing battery box tray should not be executed. The idea of having litho's directly sitting in the battery bay may work for a given owner's use. But certainly would likely become a serious safety hazard should their use change. I learned just how rough the Yukon Territory and some Alaska "corduroy roads" are two summer ago. For strictly highway use, unsupported and unrestrained litho's may work just fine. But what happens when that trailer gets sold, and the new owner is unaware of such an install's vulnerabilities? As a Registered Mechanical Engineer I am ethically required to not be silent when I can foresee a significant life and fire safety hazard. Having that much weight not fully restrained and/or supported in a battery box of a mobile application would be a problem. Especially for a mobile application that will be subject to high amplitude multiple directional accelerations. That said, your suggestion for a load spreading and battery restraining "platform" certainly is a suggestion in the right direction. I think it is a great suggestion. But from the perspective of respect and understanding, was it appropriate for you to suggest it? From "The knife cuts both ways" perspective; the answer is no. But from the higher perspective of Oliver Safety and caring for our family members: I think we can agree that both our intents were spot on. GJ

@Pam and David Hokanson are #1501, and just got their hull number on Monday. Maybe number 1500 doesn't know yet. Or, isn't here on the forum.

What a big difference! Sorry to hear they did not help you, when the CSR I got called the manufacturer for me and got replacement parts for me after I reported I had broken the u-bolt platform. I buy from Amazon when I'm thinking I might have to return the item. Returns elsewhere are more difficult. eTrailer you know the parts are legit, and they have videos and PDF manuals. Amazon not always legit parts and the worse search engine. Why can't they just return the search you entered?

This kit definitely won't work on our door. As you can see in the pic the hinge is made as part of the door frame which makes it impossible to add additional hinges. Well, maybe I could cut sections out of the frame to make it fit but I'm not going down that road.. "One-off".. We haven't named her yet, but maybe this fits as ours is certainly a one-off.. The first LEII sold, the last Ollie sold before the shutdown, and the only one titled as a 2010. Many differences from the LEII's sold after production resumed too.

Thanks for the good info on mounting the dongle. If June is with me, she can easily cut and re-terminate just about any of this stuff, but I leave it to her as I would not be successful. Way too small for these ole eyeballs. Also roger on higher vs closer and 5' of cable. If it works from under the dinette seat that's all I really am needing. Mahalo! GJ

WOW! My Ollie just turned 8 years old about a week ago. So, 1500/117= 1383 hulls that have been made in the past 8 years or 172.875 per year or 3.3245 every week. Just to round things out - I've been told that during the height of production just after Covid hit, the factory was producing about 7 hulls per week. Amazing how time flies! Bill

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers. One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity. The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas. I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking). I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage. So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used. Access is now fast and easy. No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111 #8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3 Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

This just isn't true... The Autoformer simply takes some of the available amps and boosts the voltage inside your camper to an acceptable range when it encounters a low voltage situation. During a low voltage situation your AC and fridge will be drawing the same watts at the pedestal with or without an autoformer in the circuit. Probably less surge amps at startup since the motors will have acceptable voltage when starting.

Yep, if we press slightly on the black lead wire at the connection/solder point it causes the tank reading at the monitor to jump numbers. So this may be the culprit! We are going to monitor on our upcoming trip and may end up trying to put a daub of solder back on to "tighten" that connection, if possible.

Will Prowse has some great videos on his YouTube channel on the Epochs. This, from a week ago, compares features, and costs, of LiTime and Epoch. I think I've posted this one before in another thread, but it's an interesting teardown of the Epoch 460. He's been very impressed with the case and components. Good luck with your install. That's a whopping amount of amphours!

OK, so I removed the speakers today in 3 Air Tags, the Oliver, my Ram TV and our precious GX470. The first two, I preserved 2 of 3 tabs, the third broke and stayed in place. I placed a small drop of Super Glue on those spots upon assembly. The third was the charm, all 3 tabs intact. I Sharpie'd the spots where the tabs are located, just in case, but hope not to ever have to open these again (battery change is simple twist of top metallic cover plate). So, my iPhone Find My app sees all 4 tags, you can click Play Sound the app thinking it's playing... but no sound. I can also track the tag. It shows me distance often and direction when possible. My question is what does the thief see? Given he has an iPhone and receives notice from the tag, a tag they do not own? Hopefully, they cannot track a tag they have not registered, now that we have the sound off.

Thanks for the link. Price is now down to $26 and I just ordered a set.

First check the connections. If they are firm, then dusting likely will not make any difference other than it will be cleaner.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ If your not as patient as me in making cables. Battery cables usa is a wonderful resource. Im redoing my electrical in oliver with a vicrtron lynx distributor. Check out this great manufacturer at fair prices and USA made. Very High quality. Agree totally!

Thanks everyone for your comments or suggestions! Tom and Doreen - thanks for the link, that was an informative read. I need to measure, visually verify, our tank to see if it is less than 14" tall, indicating there is only one sensor strip to go out. In my troubleshooting imagination, I could see two stacked strips and the top one went bad. 🙂 Jason Foster - we use the black tank flush port (multiple times), that sprays water into the tank. Geronimo John - I have not tried dusting the sensor, thanks for that suggestion. I'll get a can of compressed air to blow on the sensor, from a distance. Mike and Carol - we have put Dawn dish liquid in the tank before using the black tank flush port, to help break down whatever. We have not tried to soften the water so I can try that with borax....or driving around with a full-ish tank and dish soap & borax. We have regularly used Happy Camper for maintenance during our ownership. Two years of ownership and the readings started acting up in the last few months so I suspect this is nothing to do with the previous owners. SeaDawg - we regularly use our toilet, just not for poop. We will try using Mike & Carol's method, with more attention to detail on where our previous methods have differed from theirs and see (hopefully, fingers crossed) if we get different results. I would much prefer to clean then replace a part, if possible. Thanks again everyone for the input! We will keep plugging away on this issue until we get it resolved one way or another. 🙂 Alberta

I thought we did.....😊

"some" ??????????????????😁

I totally agree on the cost vs benefit ratio, for an rv, on the smart plug. The cords are ridiculously expensive, imo. In a marina, where many boats don't move for months, may be worth it, especially in areas with big tide changes, or busy spots where the boats get moved by wakes often. And, salt air/saltwater, especially. I haven't seen the EEL in person, so I'll reserve judgment on that one until I do. It, too, is geared to the marine market, imo. But, at least it's only a $40 increase in investment, on a 25' cord, and uses the common connection. What I don't see is much extra benefit in water intrusion... Of course, unplugging on a regular basis, and examining for loose connections and corrosion, is free, but for a few minutes' time. Priceless, actually.

I'm really glad you raised this issue. After playing with the tires as I described above, I (dumbly) really never thought about how to handle the situation should/when it ever occur(s). You bring up a very good and logical solution using your spare blocks of wood as dunnage between the springs and the frame. I think I'll try my test again, this time paying closer attention to what the clearances are but, this should work. I may make some custom blocks (two would be all you'd need) for the worst case scenario. I'm sure you thought of this, but I most certainly would put the spare onto the rear axle.

From the charts I agree. But... If we are running 34 or 40 PSI with a tire minder, we would need to set it lower to alarm. I run our OE2 @ 50 PSI. This gives my tire minder an opportunity to alarm earlier, for the express purpose of giving me more time to find a safer place to get off the highway. Yes, this is a compromise of sorts, but far less than what John D. and I tussled OTT to reduce their required PSI of 80 a couple of years ago.

We camped at New River State Park NC this week. Very nice campground and great area to visit: View from Mount Jefferson:

Frank I think you hit a home run with this mod and also in the write up. Thanks for sharing. Paul