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That's over my head. If you are on Facebook, join Mike Sokol's Facebook, where you can get good answers to any questions or concerns. RVelectricity by Mike Sokol Based on his posts and articles he highly recommends the EMS portable surge protector in conjunction with the wired EMS in the Oliver. The EMS is also supposed to protect against lightening strikes. He would be the one to say your concerns are unwarranted, but that is for him to say.

I can sticky it. But honestly, ours failed six years ago, pulled it,,looked at it, and got a replacement at a local store. One of the few spares we carry. It's a pita,to raise/lower the front jack manually. Of course, since we carry a spare, we've not had a failure since. Usual culprit us our front jack connection. Gets more weather.

Started installation of solar on Hull 484. Little bit of background information. I purchased a 2019 LE II in April 2024. Although the trailer was not ordered with a solar package it was prewired for solar by OTT during the build and also had the aluminum mounting plates on the roof under the fiberglass. Thank you to owners @AndrewK and @carnivore that have completed this before and posted on this forum. @carnivore ran through his install over the phone with me and even provided me with spare mounts he purchased from AMSolar during his install. I would not have had the confidence to start drilling holes into my roof to locate the preinstalled wiring without these owners doing it before me. Panels are mounted, just need to complete the wiring on roof and seal around the mounts. Mounts were secured with VHB tape and screws by drilling and tapping into the aluminum plates. I went with 2 - 200 watt panels from Rich Solar for 400 watts total. Ordering a victron solar controller and smart shunt. Will post update when the electrical side is complete.

3 weeks old. 3 boys and a girl.

Pretty cool new UI in Beta. Orion XS 50 finally shows up.

It was certainly after 2016 when OTT made the PD EMS-HW30C standard equipment. You may remember I added one end of last year. You just need to cut the 10/3 cable from the PD5100 ATS to the breaker panel and install in line.

Yes, I’ve got adapters for both 50a and 15a. Hull 135 doesn’t have an on board surge protector so I’ve always used one at the power pole. I’m using a Progressive like @Patriot posted above. Mike

Understood, but having a ‘low’ voltage shutdown at the post would negate the benefit of the HA voltage booster, which also has surge/spike protection. In an excessive high energy event like a nearby lightening strike, a 10,000+ joule surge protector at the post will further the life of MOVs in both the HA booster and PI EMS.

Except in his trailer it will have an effect since he's running a Hughes Autoformer inside.

I'd use blue. But it's up to you Red is quite difficult to remove, when you have the need

I have attempted to copy and paste to a pdf file.. The pictures did not copy. I will attempt to provide the actual article with pictures et al.. Our Olliver Trailers are like fiberglass Sailboats. Practical Sailor has articles and tests concerning almost everything related to Fiberglass. Many Oliver owners use 3M adhesives. Those like 5200 is nigh to impossible to remove. Practical Sailor test several products to remove 5200, 4200 etc. Mastering Precision Drilling.pdf

You are now connected with a large group of willing mentors who, collectively, have nearly encyclopedic knowledge of camping with Oliver trailers. This forum is one of the best resources on those topics available anywhere. IMHO, the forum is better than any one mentor. Ask away!

An interesting article I read in Practical Sailor. It may be of interest to some, like myself that is challenged to drill a straight hole. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/diy-projects/mastering-precision-drilling-how-to-use-drill-guides?MailingID=1794&sc=SC20240814-BoatMaintenance&st=email&vgo_ee=JA0W5PcLI8UFaGVDnUeXDEo6mAAEeCjjBzSln3Cd%2Fc4%3D%3AZaF3gSySaDxQxFNjeCAFHvi8GoKHYPmk

My tongue jack toggle switch stopped working in the up position this weekend. So I was not able to raise my camper. Luckily the bottom half of the switch stilled worked, so I could lower it. As an FYI: If you switch the red and black wires around it reverses the action of the switch so the down position becomes the upward movement. I was able to rewire it back and forth to get my camper hooked up using the motor. Having the inline fuse right there to cut the power off/on while switching back and forth was convenient. (obviously it could be done manually with the crank as well but then I would not have had anything to post). 🙂

The shipment was delayed, I decided to have SDG install the SoftStartRV; should ship this coming week.

I'm leaning this direction. @rideadeuce wrote this post and I believe @Ronbrink is working his installation any day now!

According to what I believe Mike Sokol stated in a couple of his articles, the answer would be yes.

I was reading his Autoformer articles also.

Mike has lots of great info and advice on RV electric, but he's WAY off when it comes to the Hughes Autoformer. Been waiting for his "Part 4" testing results for a while but now he says he bound by an NDA by the NEC and can't reveal them. I'm glad I took the advice of Hughes electrical engineers (which Mike is not. BTW), as well as from a friend of mine who is also an electrical engineer before waiting for his final results.

Beautiful pups and daughter too! Charley is on the lookout for them. He would love having a little brother! (Don't tell Chris I said so.)

It’s on the upgrade list. Right now it’s resting just behind the new air conditioner! Mike

That sounds like my kind of logic! Having happily sold our last sailboat several years ago, I recently came across a cool double-ender at a state park lake in Ohio. In trying to identify it, I ended up on a pocket yacht and trailer sailor Facebook group, and looking through Great Lakes brokerages... 😜

So true - I guess I am simply scared that if I invested in a subscription, I would consider it sunk cost and decide "Well I have the magazine, might as well get a boat." 🤣🤣

Thank you for the info- I’ll be sure to join!

That is awesome. I need to see these things in person and get an explanation. My electrical knowledge is severely lacking🤣

I’m thinking a 30A surge protector with a circuit analyzer, high joules rating of 10,000+, and no auto shutdown feature at the power pole is the best option to satisfy my stated concerns; basically a sacrificial device for less than 100$. I trust the PI EMS’s over/under voltage protection feature and thus, no need for redundancy with a HW EPO. Thanks for your insight on this matter!

Practical Sailor is my favorite site for info on waxes, lubes, adhesives, etc etc etc. The consumer reports of the fiberglass works. Many tests. No kickbacks. We own a boat, on wheels, imo

We are just a month into the Oliver journey. Seven years in a Casita and another seven in Airstream. I suggest you watch the videos on the Oliver website multiple times as they will answer many question and clearly explain procedures.

Love the tech!

Very, very cool! Mossey

@wolfdds a very helpful post and glad Mike Sharpe was able to get you the link and info. Thank you for posting. It might be super helpful if the mods or the site administrator would create a “sticky reference” page on the forum for links such as this. It would be super helpful when traveling and may require fewer phone calls to Oliver Service. It would be much easier to find links than using the forum search function. How about it mods can you discuss the idea of a sticky reference page for links like this to be created? Forum members thoughts? Thanks!

I was able to find the part with Mike Sharpe's help. I am attaching the Barker parts list he sent me as a reference. He marked part #20 but that is the light switch. Part #9 is the up/down switch. Here is a link to the place I bought it from: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/barker-jack-up-down-switch-736-2300

Here is the update: I did the vinegar treatment to my water system today with great success!. The bathroom faucet is working perfectly now. I was amazed how fast the treatment solved the problem, the vinegar was only running through the faucet for about 15 seconds when the pressure started improving. However the toilet valve remained stuck open. I changed it out and all is good. The toilet valve was filled with debris...but it was easy and cheap to replace.

As noted by @Patriot -- I frequently check the fasteners after travel. I have my tires at 55#. However, a couple of rough washboard roads have convinced me to lower my tire pressure more. Even though I go really slow, the vibration impacts everything. This last trip, I opened the Truma AquaGo WH (outside panel) to turn it on, and discovered a screw sitting against the panel door. It took me a while to figure out where it came from. That required me to go buy a TORX screwdriver (star-shaped), and Blue (medium) Locktite. I also purchased some other new tools this week, for dealing with Zerks. But that's another story. I wish we had a "recommended tools" list on the OTT Service Knowledge Base (a more robust list, I should say)... because sometimes you find a need and no hardware within distance.

I’m not sure on why the Furrion inlet itself is only rated at 10 amps even though (I think) #10 wire is used. Also it just occurred to me that in the DC world for longer wire runs it’s a good idea to use large wire to reduce the losses. Maybe that’s why they use larger wire than really needed even though the plug itself is the limiting factor? I must have read somewhere that the inlet and the available Cnlinko plugs were rated at 10 amps. That may have been my deciding factor for choosing a 10 amp fuse. Seems like I recall that when I was searching for a suitable inlet that they were mostly rated at 10 amps. I probably didn’t dig deeper into it at the time because my small panels weren’t going cause any issues. At the time I only wanted a small easy to carry/store portable panel to supplement the Oliver panels. Even though I can run my air conditioner on my 300 amp/hr batteries I don’t really consider doing that because it would take an unreasonable amount of time to recharge the batteries. In recent years the prospect of running an air conditioner for a meaningful amount of time has become a reality with the large capacity batteries and large solar panels which I have neither unfortunately. Good question though.

I was beginning to think you worked for GZ, maybe you’re just one of those influencer's. Just kidding! Mossey

Yes, we also 'Had those Shims', found some on the floor below cabinets. Kind of reminded me of paint stir sticks. I removed ours, not really knowing what they were... I thought maybe temp spacers during assembly, and were left in there. I did save them, now I cannot find them, not in TT, must be in garage. I figured out what they were months later. However, have not had issues with drawers or slide/glides. all staying put. I do see where Metal Slide hdwe, may have some issues in the future, but no issues yet, and we have had travelled some rough roads. B~Out

This is not necessarily true, when we picked up our Oliver E2 March of 2015 (#70) tires were at 50 or perhaps 55 PSI certainly not 80 PSI. For the first few years we ran them also at 50 but in the last 2 to 3 years have kept them at 45 on normal paved roads. I certainly agree though running them at 80 makes for a very hard ride.

This is what I found, when the MW stopped working, and I had to remove it. (not working was another issue). We have the High Pointe (see pic) MW, the faceplate has good attachment to the fiberglass/cabinet, no issues there. However you have to slide the MW out to get access to where the shroud is attached to the sides of the MW. Shroud has SHARP EDGES... We had (1) screw on each side of shroud holding it to the MW, (1) on bottom of cabinet, (1) somewhere between OTT assembly and Valdez AK... IMHO, These (see pic) were not really good screws to attach the shroud to the MW, they were counter-sinks so they would not be snug. All were all loose, having worked their way out partway. The screws on the front of the shroud were basically holding the MW in place. Opened up MW, Repaired the MW, Closed up MW. I replaced existing screws with some short panhead sheet metal screws with fatter threads, and some appropriate external tooth washers. I should have used regular nuts/bolts/washers & bolted the shroud to the MW but I just wanted to finish and get on with vacation. We will see. Getting the MW back into the compartment, and lined up and under that cam attached to the bolt that holds it in place at the rear of the cabinet was not easy, maybe an hour & half...

Tire Pressure and make sure your shocks are in good shape. I have found that most appliances in the OTT to be 'Metric threading', that is important when buying/replacing lost bolts/nuts. B~Out

Good practice. I’ve had bad 30a connections but when I checked the 50a it was fine so I just used it. We had a 30a go bad after a few days at Table Rock Lake near Branson and I was able to use the 50a until they got it fixed (it was hot and we needed the AC). Mike

We all do it at times. I like to see that pump LED off when I'm starting to walk down those steps to leave the Oliver, has become habit. I also check my Victron app each time and when leaving for the day or going to sleep (left the fridge on DC one night when boondocking, got down to 63%). Yes, your pump was damaged pumping dry overnight. The new pump fixed that, as you wrote "progress" in the fact that it would draw from the boondocking port. Not sure if your action could also create the leak at the tank. Stuff happens.

9MM wrench works on the zerk fitting with 1/4” threads.

If you can't get the 45-degree zerks to cooperate, something like the following 90-degree adapters on the end of your straight grease gun hose/fitting might work for you... https://locknlube.com/collections/greasing-accessories/products/locknlube-90-degree-grease-coupler-adapter# or https://locknlube.com/products/locknlube-simple-90-coupler?variant=8158561206327 Of course they're also available on Amazon 🙂 The width at the business end of the first adapter is about 1-3/16". The width of the 2nd "simple 90" adapter is about 2-1/16". The Locknlube site wants $16.99 for the first (left photo), and $10.99 for the second (right photo).

The grease fitting ends are all the same but the thread sizes differ. Some are SAE, some are metric. Take one with you when you go to buy the new ones.

FYI. Bulldog has not made a run of these shocks in quite some time. If you order them from somewhere, make sure they actually have them in stock. Some places hit your card and then you wait until Bulldog makes a run and then Bulldog sends them direct. I was told my shocks should come this week. I ordered them a couple of months ago.

Asking re the experiences of others who have upgraded to the Victron 3KVA Multiplus or MPII, including @rideadeuce, @Overland and @Ty J or anybody else who has a good idea! I had the MP2 in the OFF position via the VictronConnect app (not the physical switch). If you scroll up a couple of posts, I showed a picture of the app and its "On/Off/Charger Only/Inverter only" menu options. I also had shore power disconnected to run the A/C on inverter and later to charge batteries using solar only and the MP2 was in the OFF position for over 24 hours. The physical switch on the body of the MP2 is in the ON position since I will not be moving the bed to use the physical switch. A great feature is the software switch allowing these four positions. Next day, I plugged in the shore power and since the thermostat was on and set well below the 90F cabin temp, MP2 inverter still in the OFF position via app control, I thought the air would turn on immediately, but it did not. The shore power bypass in the MP2 was not working as intended. Then using the app, I switched to "Inverter only" and the A/C turned on, then I switched back to OFF, and it turned off, still not allowing shore power to run the A/C. Next, again via the app, I switched the MP2 to the "Charger Only" position. This allowed the shore power pass-through, and the air ran as it should and of course it charged the batteries as well. What is going on here? We need to be able to run shore power passed through the MP2 when it is turned off! Ideas? I sure thought this was working properly last week and since it was installed. I have shore power wired into the MP2 directly from the PI EMS and I used the main output L1 (L2 not used) wired directly to the 30A main fuse in the 120VAC panel supplying power to ALL AC circuits. Today, I will try again to turn the inverter OFF to see if it is working properly or not. If I cannot correct this, I will contact Victron Tech Support net week. Thanks