Leaderboard

We were on our first long trip consisting of 2 to 3 months in the Ollie ( mostly Boondocking) . We were about 2000 miles from home in Billings,Montana and had stopped in a parking lot for lunch. I went to wash my hands and the water pump wouldn’t work. I noticed when I put pressure on one side of the switch in the bathroom it would pulse on like a momentary switch. I removed the screws from the bathroom caddy and carefully scored the caulk. When I removed the caddy all the wires fell off the switch. I had no idea which color wire went where. After a call to Oliver and with their help and research I used a pair of pliers to gently tighten the wire connectors and pushed them back on the proper spade. The red wire attaches to the center spade on the right side and the grays on the outside spades. I have two pictures that show the switch. Hopefully this post will help someone who might experience the same problem.

In general, Cool Mode prioritizes temperature whereas Dry Mode humidity. The Cielo Max Breez thermostat effectively and efficiently regulates these two factors and thus, no need to toggle back and forth between modes for optimum comfort with respect to variances in weather conditions (temperature/relative humidity).

I think Steve & Tali Landrum received the initial LE2 not long before the industrywide RV downturn and nationwide closure of RV manufacturing plants . Steve may have even had input with some ideas on the design. One of the greatest things about the Oliver family is how they treat their employees. Unlike most other manufacturers, who laid off employees at large, Oliver offered every worker a position within one of their other Hohenwald, TN manufacturing plants. Nobody had to lose their job. They kept them gainfully employed, and when the market warranted a return to the RV production line, they already had a skilled workforce ready to resume creating the best trailer out there.

Joshua Tree is like visiting the Flintstones back yard! It should be a bucket list park. I'm pretty sure we stayed in that very same site. We had to reserve two different sites because of limited availability. Our first site was a 20 point turn to squeeze in, and then some kind folks suggested that we look at google satellite maps when reserving a site. This proved to be a great tip! Cheers Geoff

Yes, I have seen those claims and reviews backing it up. I believe they began by making high end ice shanties for fishing, so they have some credibility with their insulated panels. Your contrast with the Oliver is my experience as well - more of a three-season trailer than four but yet better than most. Technologically, the Xplor is an intriguing trailer - truly can live completely off grid for as long as 60 gallons of water will last you. But then once again, I had to ask myself at my age am I going to be out in the cold camping or the more extreme heat, and the realistic answer is no unless there is an apocalypse. Thus, for the money and my anticipated use ... I use my Oliver completely off-grid the majority of the time. Just not for extended periods and not in extreme conditions or extreme locations. Perhaps the same is true for you and you want to push those boundaries - I get it.

Correct the X22 series was discontinued a couple years ago, and seemed to have expanded their lineup since. They now have a Sport, Explore and Outback series both in single axle (X145) and double axle (X195) although they are really not axles in the truest sense of the word. Their claim is to withstand -40º below zero. The day I looked into them it was well into the 90's on an intense sunny day but they felt quite comfortable inside, considerably more so than the Oliver, it was quite obvious. Their options include a massive solar array and battery storage. Had never heard of those batteries and they are technically very different than most others but also extremely expensive. The salesman said you could end up paying $30K + or - just for the solar/battery setup. Too rich for my blood but it was impressive.

Awesome. The only time we have been there was in our younger years with pre-teen daughter tent camping. Loved the park. Wind picked up that night and I swear it was like having a freight train running right through the campground. Wife and I were up in the middle of the night literally holding the tent up from the inside before it came apart. Daughter slept right through the entire thing.

I've seen similar filter and water softener additions. Here's mine. I recently saw that James at FitRV released a single 2.5" X 10" water filter element to replace the standard 3-stage system. I've considered one of the smaller 3-stage systems as an upgrade, so I thought I'd give this a try as a less expensive alternative. Of course using one 3-stage filter instead of three separate filters is going to mean a shorter interval between replacement. But the cost difference should be negligible, and I won't have to find a place to store a 3-stage system. Here's the FitRV video and article: YouTube: https://youtu.be/t_SQNVapBEw?si=FfufAl7n4p_80Eys Web article: https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tech/our-new-rv-water-filter-the-fit-rv-3-in-1-filter/ I bought a cheap filter canister from Amazon, that arrived with horribly oversized 3/4" NPT pipe threads, and enough slop that the filter moved over 1/8" up and down. That's not going to work at all, so back it went and a GE housing was ordered. Much better! I assembled with a 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT (garden hose thread) on each end; one male-to-male, and the other male-to-female. Then I gave it a test fit on Curiosity's rear bumper. Dummy! The hoses would interfere with the trailer body and the drop down sewers cover. :facepalm: Back to Amazon for a pair of 90° 3/4" GHT male-to-female connectors. In hindsight, I should have used a 90° 3/4 NPT to 3/4 GHT set, but looking today, I couldn't find that combination. This also allowed me some flexibility in the angle of the input and output. Back when I ordered the Oliver, and spent those agonizing months waiting for delivery day, I accumulated a bunch of bits and pieces to get ready to go. (Didn't we all?) One was an adjustable water pressure regulator. I didn't realize that Oliver would supply a fixed 40 PSI inline regulator, and the inline unit was convenient to store with the Camco inline water filters I've been using. So now's the opportunity to get it off the garage shelf and put it to use! I drilled and tapped two threads into the side of the bumper support, and screwed and LocTited in two stainless screws. These are used to hang the whole contraption while in use. It'll be stored in my bucket during transport. I hope this is helpful for anyone wanting to upgrade from an inline water filter. List of components: GE Filter Housing: https://a.co/d/7cbaS28 FitRV 3-in-one filter: https://a.co/d/b0NzDt8 Camco 4' Potable Water Hose: https://a.co/d/eVeV4BJ 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-male (2-pack): https://a.co/d/5MopLFL 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-female 2-pack): https://a.co/d/dE1gWDC 90° 3/4" GHT Elbow: male-to-female (2-pack): https://a.co/d/24kw8xO Teflon tape for NPT threads Total cost: $133 plus tax Question: The fixed pressure regulator that came with the Oliver is 40 PSI. I've set the adjustable water pressure regulator to the same 40 PSI. What pressure do those of you with adjustable regulators use?

Watched a new video from around July 2025. It's an interesting comparison from an Airstream Basecamp guy who thoroughly praised the Oliver as the highest quality trailer he's seen. The video also shows some of newer equipment such as the Truma AC, and the interior equipment spaces including what appears to be a Victron 30 amp DC to DC charger installation. Actually a friend sent this and I couldn't help feeling proud! Cheers, Geoff

Pretty sure Steve bought the very first LE2 after the hiatus with the four units between our hull 45 and his hull 50 all being LE's.

We have run into this issue a few times but only on very rough back country roads, ie BLM or USFS roads. Typically before traveling down these types of roads I will take all 3 off their mounts and lay on the king bed in the back. To my way of thinking the clips seem like a poor connection method for this type of application anyway. Seems to me a better method might be a long run of velcro across the bottom, either that or some extremely strong neodymium magnets. I have seen this type of magnet so strong it's virtually impossible to pull apart. Just a thought or two

Beautiful campsite at Joshua Tree. On the way to California leaving from Palmetto Ga. Spent 2 nights heading to Seal Beach CA to meet the kids and grandkids for a week of R & R.

We used to live down in the Coachella Valley in Rancho Mirage for 5+ years and during that time drove through once! We did not own the Oliver at that time. I did however, frequent the park may decades ago while in the Boy Scouts. It is quite surreal in many places and ways.

I need to back off on my weight comments above. At the time we were looking, the X195 was not out yet and they had a X22 (or something like that) with GVWR of 9000 or 10000 lbs as I recall - thus my comments about the weight. The X195 appeared as a generation 2 trailer from this manufacturer (they dropped the x22) just before we bought our Ollie and it has a GVWR of 6172 lbs so much less. In the same ballpark as the Oliver LEII. So for serious rough roads and offroad this is certainly an appealing option.

We considered this one as a serious contender before we bought our Oliver. It had a number of issues for us however. The first is it's pretty heavy (X195) compared to the Elite II - pretty much 3/4-ton truck territory. For our kind of travel I didn't think we would make sufficient use of its off-road capabilities and the air suspension - we are getting too old for that. I couldn't really imagine pulling something that heavy off-road even with our 3/4-ton truck. The dry toilet seems nice but fussy and expensive for sure. Finally, didn't like the bed size and layout, and no twin-bed option. Relatively limited dealer network with no apparent mothership (and I live in Wisconsin!). In the end for the price and the features mentioned, we felt the Oliver EII was a better buy for our use. But I am not surprised you too saw it as a competitor to Oliver.

Jumbo Rock Campground. Site 71, Joshua Tree NP

Geoff, First time we were given a tour of a Legacy Elite, felt the same way! Good video! Thanks for posting!

Concerning the difference between cool mode and dry mode. I have run the unit in dry mode for days on end with the trailer in my driveway. We’ve had multiple 90 degree days with high humidity and by setting the temperature a little bit higher than in cool mode the trailer was kept very comfortable. The only difference (according to the Tosot customer service folks) between cool mode and dry mode is that in dry mode the fan only runs on low. Maybe the on cycle is a little bit longer, I’ve not been able to tell the difference. Everything else is the same. Since we tend to run the fan on low 99% of the time anyway, dry mode really works great for keeping the trailer cool and dry. I probably will only use cool mode to initially get a hot trailer cool using high or turbo fan mode and then switch to dry mode for the rest of the time. It’s interesting to note that the specific temperature settings for any particular mode are remembered as you cycle through the different modes. Anyway, learning as we go.

Boondocking in Lewiston MT for the night in a Kiwanis Club campground adjacent to a little airport runway. Fun to watch the small planes takeoff and land

Saw two Ollie's headed north being hauled on the back of a semi just north of Kansas City at about 9am this morning. Other than seeing an Oliver Elite I headed west into Dubois, WY about a week ago and camping for several days with another Elite II about a month ago, that is all I've seen in the past two months on the road. However, I'm guessing that will change when I land at the Mothership tomorrow afternoon. Bill

When we were at TRNP a “herd” of Bison (15 or 20) walked through our site, a couple brushed up against the trailer. We were peering out the windows!

If you look VERY closely at the left side of this photo you can see the tongue of our trailer 😂

Same with us. But then we fill our FW tank and our 35 gal supplemental tank with soft water from home to avoid scaling in the water heater and that gets us through most outings.

Theodore R NP site 21 in Cottonwood

We just replaced ours, 2 years before its expiration date, because of false alarms. It appears to have become hypersensitive and was alarming because of errant exhaust fumes coming from the Norcold fridge. 2 problems there. I sealed the large gap at the top of the lower fridge access panel with metal tape (discussed in another thread) and then I replaced the detector with a new one. I did the same as @John Dorrer, using Wago connectors to make the next replacement easier.

Fix for falling shade frames. I tried replacing the clips and applied silicone to help hold. Nope. The large shade frame fell off again on the last trip so I was determined to do something different. The shade frames will never fall off again. I removed all of the clips and their spacers. Cut and installed 4" long sections of aluminum c-channel purchased from Home Depot using original screws along with blue Loctite. Then placed the frames back on, drilled and attached the shade frames with #6 stainless steel screws. Fitment is perfect. Hope this helps others. Photos attached.

We’ve always had one shade that was never seated properly - the one at the aft seat at the dinette. I’d know because I’d lead on it and it would pop on, then pop right off when I un-leaned on it. We found one broken clip and got a “free” replacement when we passed through Hohenwald. The problem has gotten worse as time went by. We’re to the point that that shade now falls off every time we hit the road. (So I’m taking it off -before- we leave today!) Upon closer inspection, we found that one channel where the clip snaps into is spread - from pressure and heat I’d guess. Another area of the channel is actually cracked at the “root” of the channel. I tried moving the clips to locations where the channel was still good, but that didn’t really help. The shade over the curb side bed is now starting to show the same malady. So - seems some have resorted to “gluing” the shades on with RTV or similar. I was hoping for something a little less permanent and/pr requiring keying the thing off when desired. My current thinking is some 3M adhesive wire tie mounts - little 3/4” square pads with foam tape on the back. One on the wall by the window, and in on the shade frame. In two or more places around the window. Add a wire tie and it -should- stay in place. Downside: visible and could look jury-rigged. Looking at the relationship between the window frame and the window shade, a square “U” clip could do the job - if I could find one the perfect size and shape. Guess I’ll look. Aside from replacing the shade and all the clips - which will likely fail in time just as the original ones have - has anybody found a permanent and esthetically pleasing fix?