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You’re welcome! Why many of us are here. You know with your hull #124, you’re in a good group of fine ol’ 2016 hulls, soon reaching our 10-year anniversaries! Our #113 was being built this time of year in 2015 (can tell from the dates I’ve seen on parts in the basement). It was Bill, @topgun2 hull #117, who wrote me 2+ years ago, just after our purchase, that our hulls are “cousins!” And there’s @Mike and Carol with #135, and I’m sure I’m missing others. Literally TONS of experience in this group! These older hulls have nicely matured, and are reliable in their lifelong experiences! 😎 Good to hear from you cousin! Good to know you’re fixing up the old girl!

Hello everyone here is a copy of the agenda for the Texas Rally looking forward to seeing everyone.

Our Hull 45 was without any electrical protection also so I installed a hard wired Hughes Power Watchdog as well as their Autoformer voltage booster. Looking to upgrade to their new "Watchdog Powercenter" once it's back in stock. It combines the Autoformer voltage booster and Watchdog protection into one unit to protect from low voltage, surges, and wiring issues. Pricey, but worth it, IMHO... Watchdog Powercenter

Simple answer is to get under your trailer and take a picture of your axle label. If it states D35 then 3500 lbs or D52 for 5200. If no label, look at the back of the braking plates for the drums/wheels. If you see the heads of a 4-bolt pattern, you have 3500 lb axles and if it's a 5-bolt pattern then 5200 lb axles. I purchased and self-installed Alcan HD springs (including their HD shackles and wet-bolts), Dexter D52 axles and new Dexter EZ Flex equalizers. Given your considering this important investment you may want to read through my thread, even if you plan to have the installation done by Alcan or others. Also read through the first few pages of this long thread (but after a few pages it gets repetitive)! 🤣

Thanks. There is an ACE hardware and I will check that out. It looks like I'll take the tow or stay here. I have a dog with a fractured shoulderblade (got hit by a car last week). He immediately ran into the trailer it's the most comfortable place for him. I was planning to camp down in Bishop but tent camping is not the best thing for him right now.

Just to be sure: clockwise to close.

Residual gas in the trailer LP plumbing would NOT be enough to start a flame on the stovetop at all, or if it did so it would burn out in seconds. I believe one/or both of your tank valves is/are either open or bad. If you can truly run the cooktop for any length of time, the tank valve is OPEN. We always run gas through the cooktop for a few seconds (lit or not) before turning the fridge to LP, turning on the HWH, or furnace, to bleed the lines with pure gas up to that point. However, for gas to flow from an LP tank, both the internal valve has to be open and the LP line with the correct connector needs to be attached. Both the valve open AND the line connected is necessary for LP gas to be released from the tank (redundancy for safety). Either it's something as simple as your tanks valve(s) are NOT closed (righty-tighty), or you valve is bad, failed in an open position and it's not apparent until the line is connected that the valve is actually open. Hope this helps! This Q&A on this website explains: https://www.propane101.com/valveopennopropane.htm

Camp without Wi-Fi in the year 2025? “Don’t leave home without it!” 🤣

Cort - Any chance you could "borrow" a handle from one of the other valves down there? Or, is there an Ace Hardware/Home Depot/Lowe's nearby where you could purchase a replacement? Bill

Chalk it up to the learning curve, based on recent testing I have found my above statement to only be partially true. Although the power button on the Cielo touchscreen will in fact turn off the a/c, doing so does not cancel a programmed setting entirely. However in the absence of Wi- Fi, the Cielo can be ‘deactivated’ for total shutdown by simply removing its power source. Preliminary findings indicate that once the Cielo is ‘reactivated’ it resorts back to the last setting, which is Comfy Mode in my test scenario. I’m currently working on a hack and hopeful forthcoming tests will provide a favorable result to better address your concern. Standby!

I suspect the latter!

Yep, agreed! OTT did not install one on our older hull, so after asking Forum members, as to "Why?" I installed the same PI EMS shortly after purchasing our Oliver. We had the same EMS model in a Class C, and the 50A version in a Class A we had in the past. They are standard and code compliant. As far as electrical installations, it's relatively simple and I also agree with CRM, that pedestal protection has the issue he cited and others.

How many cupholders does it have?

how about this .. tows 40,000 ponds and is small

For the thermostat: my original Dometic thermostat requires 12 volts to work and operates through a relay arrangement located at the air conditioner. I didn’t use any of that and had SDG folks dispose of the relay box and just bundle the unused wires at the air conditioner. The only wires now used at the air conditioner are the 120 volt hot, neutral and ground. My original thermostat was mounted to the right of the pantry above the rear dinette seat so your installation may be different, Oliver has mounted the thermostat in several different locations over the years. I ran new wires for the thermostat behind the pantry and into the left rear corner area and connected to the two wires (blue and blue/white striped wires) that go directly to the Suburban furnace. The original telephone type thermostat wire was abandoned and bundled in the wiring space to the right of the pantry. The simple thermostat is fully manual/mechanical and mounts in the same location as the old one. Now the air conditioner and the furnace are totally separate and operate independently from each other. I did have to fabricate a mounting plate for the new thermostat to cover the holes from the old thermostat.

I’m probably wrong but I think the Atmos and Tosot units are both made by Gree and are essentially identical. Country of origin may be different though.

Correct, the air distribution panel controls are on the front right when looking forward from the rear of cabin. I was able to retain the Dometic thermostat for continued use in operating my Dometic furnace, as discussed in my home install of the similar Deiha Atmos 4.4 that SDG was selling before switching to the Tosot due to supply cost issues. The only issue I’ve experienced in regards to roof runoff, whether from the a/c unit or rainfall, is stained streaks from leaf tannins and thus, try to avoid campsites with tree cover to the extent possible. Although the condensate is slightly more acidic than rainwater, there is no real harm caused to a properly maintained fiberglass gelcoat (think waxed or ceramic coated). I carry a spray bottle of water/Dawn/vinegar solution to quickly remove said streaks as they develop in camp, as well as any tannin brown stains found on the roof when washing the Oliver after each trip prior to storage. For these targeted areas, a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser is a very effective, nonabrasive tool for spot treatments.

Residual gas in the appliances and the lines? Can't imagine it would last long once the pressure is relieved, but the appliances are pretty good at sipping propane.

Sounds like Oliver was ahead of the curve again!

Columbia Icefield Parking lot for Athabasca Glacier Also functions as FCFS Campground

Where's Ollie? At Along the River a farm in Delores, CO! They were closed for the season but Jeanna (owner, tiny woman age 88, husband 96, farming all her life and today rides an ATV like a young girl), she said it's been a slow season, so she re-opened for our 3-night stay. We have the place to ourselves and the river sounds just wonderful! Delores Along the River.MOV

If I’m making reservations for a site or if I’m selecting a site while at a campground I always try to find one so the trailer is facing north (or generally north). I like the sun to come up in the morning on the door side and go down on the other side. Now that I’m deploying a Starlink, if I’m facing north it‘s easy to put the dish on the aluminum box on the tongue or on the picnic table that’s usually there outside the door. We saw all kinds of mounts on our trip to the PNW in August and September, some fancy and some simple and some who just throw it on the ground! Mike

Unfortunately, no. We were scheduled to attend a gathering in Pennsylvania last week, but both Deb and I were still nursing a really nasty chest cold that dragged on for almost three weeks. Ugg! Next Tuesday we head out for a week in west-central Ohio, where I will experiment with the various setups I have. The section of Indian Lake State Park where a dozen or so of us are gathering is heavily wooded, so I doubt I'll be able to get any benefit from the mast. I'll likely have my 150' of Ethernet cable out trying to find a bit of open sky. I also recently grabbed a Makita battery adapter with the Starlink Mini cable as the output that offers yet another quickly deployed setup. I carry three Makita batteries and a charger in the trailer, so with the adapter, I can plug in a battery and toss the Starlink Mini anywhere and have service within its inbuilt wifi range. I have deployed the mast here at home. I already had a pair of SeaSucker 4.5" vacuum mounts that I was hoping to use with Flagpole Buddy's generic mount. But with the angles of the hull, there was no way that would have worked. I already know how well the SeaSucker mounts hold, and the 6" Airstream mounts from Flagpole Buddy are just as good, but bigger. I stuck both mounts on the rear, above the left turn signals and an even height above the belt. I bought two extra sections for 16' of height above the lower mount, so close to 20' overall. I left it on for about a week without once needing to pump in more vacuum. And every day I really tugged on the mast, and rocked the trailer to see if it would come loose. It worked great! I did find it a little finicky to get the correct angle on the two bases to get the mast vertical. But once aligned, I put a Sharpie mark at the top so that it will be easier the next time.