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Would be pure speculation. When we sold our previous LE I, the new owner got spreadsheets and the handwritten logbook that's like an airplane's log. We didn't receive anything like that, just some vague contradictory statements about how little the trailer had traveled and the distant places that they had visited. Based on several other items (shocks, refrigerator, plumbing) I have my opinions and speculations. I have tried to go through (with the help of the smart people on this forum) each system and bring it up to better than specs. Bulldog shocks, new refregerator, etc. I also try to give back with designs for installing the GasStop units on an LE I and will eventually get around to posting my refrigerator fan design that has a temp sensor to run the exhaust fans when needed. The reason we purchased an Oliver is the community, the bunch of experienced travelers and engineers that will see a panic message on a Saturday afternoon and start throwing out helpful and thougtful troubleshooting tips. Besides the incredible engineering and reliability of our trailers, it's the community that sets our Oliver apart from the Grand Design sitting across from us and the Apex next door. Wow - this response got off topic. Road brain, or possibly the wide open spaces of Wyoming out the window.

The plot thickens. Louis Rossmann weighs in. https://youtu.be/lrORu-N6erY?is=OYjAWpKF-BPF1lrE

@Boudicca908 Check out this YouTube video by "The Trailer Smith". It's 1 of about 5 that he has put up. Then check out his other trailer video's, for instance, search for "brakes". All of his videos that I have seen have been very informative. Mossey

Our Oliver turned 10 last month. We will celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary this coming Friday. Time flies. Mike

That was my first thought. We have one "Never Adjust" brake that always sets itself a little tighter than the other 2.

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system. There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them.

Started calling at 7:30 this morning. Made three calls before I realized that in the real world it's Saturday.🤦‍♂️ Will try again on Monday.

We have a fairly steep driveway, and the front is way up to get the trailer level. It works fine. I ordered a new foot plate from Barker.

Don't be so hard on yourself. You have been dealt a bad hand and have done more on your own that most people are able or willing to do! This should not be the case on a 2022 Oliver and 2023 HD truck! Good thing you have a modern diesel truck. I imagine you are running the exhaust brake to compensate for the trailer brakes. Taking another look at this photo, I don't see the large black cable coming from the hitch, but I do see all the wire colors associated with a trailer wiring harness. You can have an issue there, but there is no movement there like at the hitch or at the wheels. Wago connectors covered with electrical tape, good work OTT! Wagos are not reliable. It makes sense the black is fused for the +12V (accessory or charge wire). This should be disconnected anyway. The blue is for brakes. If you have a butt connector and crimp tool where you can reach in there, I would replace the Wago connector. I'd replace them all but not while on the road. So all trailer lights, turn signal lights, etc work except the blue wire? Again low likelyhood. Intermittent loss is more likely either the electronics going bad in the truck brake controller, a loose connection at the 7-blade connector or a wire shorting on-n-off at the wheels. The U-Haul rental is a pain but will give you a truck vs. trailer diagnosis. You may do this and find no error and then think you wasted more time, already thinking it was something wrong in the Oliver. If you are able to test for amperage on the brake lines and found an error this would be easier with tool and testing knowledge. Problem with this option is it can test good when sitting/testing and then a bad wire can touch when moving, hence your intermittent issue. Nothing worse than intermittent issues. I bought a truck NEW once in my life, the other 10 were all purchased USED. It had a bad trans, the torque converter would slip intermittently when hot. I took it to 3 different Dodge dealers for warranty repair. It always worked fine when at the dealer, at least that's what they said! Sound familiar to your experience? It lasted until it was out of warranty and then it failed on an AZ to TX trip. I was lucky to limp along on the final stretch, just barely getting to our Georgetown home. You could stop at Harbor Freight in Little Rock and purchase a clamp-on ammeter. Test for amperage like in the picture I shared above. I've got another idea. Forget about it for a while, use your exhaust brake and enjoy your trip. After you get to New Mexico drive another day to Prescott Arizona. I have an Oliver parking spot with a 30A hookup, good mountain water, free dump station down the street. I have the next 3 weeks off work and would work a couple days on your Oliver! We can tow my Oliver with your truck to see if we get the same error message. I will wire a new 7-blade connecter, new brake wiring at the axles or whatever is needed. I'm not kidding! I enjoy repair work and it's a genuine offer to help you. PM me if you want. If your issue is with the Oliver, I can and will fix it. Best wishes, JD

AND - IF all of this is true (I suspect it is true), we just might get our "classified section" back here on the Forum. Bill

Lake Catherine SP is one of our favorites! Mike

Good thought Tom (and Dudley). Could be the brake shoes, but I would think @DunnYet would have noticed more than a squeak when spinning the wheels if this was true. The shoes, when the self-adjusters are working correctly, should just slightly drag on the drum and you should hear and feel drag as you spin in either direction. Correct the brakes are worn in rolling forward, something to consider for sure. The circular pattern of the shoes is not perfectly round like the drum. If the squeak has some pulsating pattern this could be true. If it's a constant squeal when spinning, then more likely the bearing. A three-year-old trailer should not have bearing or brake issues. IMHO, 3 years would be minimal time for a first inspection. This is supposed to be a 5-year 100K system. Also understand to check the brakes the outer circlip and spindle bolt must be removed. The bolt is on at 150 ft-lb and you must be able to replace it and retighten to this spec. I don't think a buildup of brake dust would do this. If the trailer was dragged through a lot of water on and off, then perhaps. I just lifted our Oliver and spun the two wheels on one side. I heard the constant drag showing the shoes are adjusted nicely. On one I heard a slight chirp in reverse, it went away immediately. Nothing you would call a squeal, but it plays to your hypothesis. Mine are like brand new though. I installed new D52 axles 10 months ago and have only 3,600 miles on them. @DunnYet, next time you do the spin test, try to focus on what kind of sound and where it's coming from, dead center or on the perimeter. You could use the tube in ear approach in lieu of a stethoscope. Constant squeal or something more dragging and pulsating?

Thank you very much! On my way to UHaul place. Update: I called before driving. Oh well… No trailers available today, but reserved for tomorrow. I think I’ll take a walk. Lake Catherine SP is gorgeous.

I agree this video illustrates a problem with the water heater; however it doesn't address the issue with the furnace.

Will now has much better equipment for testing. It’s perfectly fine to like a product, but it’s also okay to discover it’s actually terrible through testing and share your honest opinion. Some unscrupulous scumbag individuals at Dragonfly Energy are hoping to profit before the company fails, but I suspect their plan will backfire, and the company will still collapse. It’s unfortunate for the hardworking people who work there.

……and here. What a shitty company!

Excellent work! You got a lot done today. 😎 I have no idea how long these bearings are good for once they give the first clue. We're going to find out though, yours being the first experience on our forum. Some of y'all who boo-hooed my bearing replacement thread, time to rethink your position. A little noise in reverse. I think that's better than noise going forward or both directions. I would continue on your planned trip. Every day or two when you're leveling, lift that wheel and give it another spin. You have pinpointed your issue and can see how it progresses with miles towing. Exactly, there is no need. My bet is you'll get back to Texas on that bearing! But what do I know? If it gets bad, the bearing is easy to source, and a good trailer shop can replace it. I'll link my bearing replacement thread below. An Authorized Dexter Reseller should be able to replace it under warranty. You have a 2022 date on that axle and given the 5-year warranty is correct, you should be covered. I do not believe there is an original owner clause but find the limited warranty statement online to understand your rights. OTT, another authorized shop or Dexter direct. Your choice, OTT will just take more time. I'd go with a local authorized shop, hopefully back in Texas. If it gets bad when you're still in Wyoming, you always have the Alcan option. I usually forget it's Saturday too! If needed, you could call ahead to order the part. If so, send them your label picture. BTW, Dexter may not provide warranty replacement for a minor squeal. It needs to get worse and truly fail, the noise will be somewhat louder! 🤣 Don't wait 'til you get home. Given they were correct and Alcan just reinstalled them a bit tight, they have not yet been damaged. Loosen them as soon as you get a chance. They're Nylok nuts and will stay put. You'll be under the trailer with your torque wrench anyway, LOL! The rubber should oval-out some but not mushroom over the support metal like in your picture. I see 7 threads on that stud and 4 +/- might be the right count. Make them all the same. Buy new bushing sets later if they get bad. Keep us posted and do enjoy your trip! So cool, you got this worked out quickly! 😎

Sorry John, somehow I missed this when you posted this earlier! This is turning out to be my lamest mod! I usually do better. Dudley came up with the switch idea, and I didn't take the time to realize the light wiring would come in below the vanity countertop! So I have the doghouse mount with wires showing, new switch hole drilled... I'm bummed. 🙃 I was at first thinking of another porch light up front at the same height as the others. When that didn't seem right, I did not think of mounting something lower. Yes, for sure you can do your idea! You could pull power and put the lamp fuse inside the jack head. You would run the switch leg down the jack post, along the incoming line with the 30A fuse. Catch ground inside. Some kind of loom would make for a clean installation to cover the two wires and the jack fuse. You could use the same lamp as the porch lights. There is also a surface mount version of the light I purchased for the front. I just finished making my custom light bracket today. I'll post a picture when I get it installed.

I for sure know that "Duhh" feeling. Hope it works out well for you Monday. GJ

Wow! Happy 10th and 50th Mike & Carol from your friends at Ollie-land! 🤗

Next time at your storage, take a good look at the jack post to see if it’s straight and can fully extend and retract. If you need a new post, I’ve got one, could ship to you. 😎

Boudicca: JD is a outstanding standup guy. Comes across some times a bit gruff (Don't we all?), but is pure of heart and giving to a fault. And Chris can sure cook up a wonderfull mountain of pasta as well. I went thru the same process as you, but had the tools and past knowledge to get to the bottom of it. For grins I would suggest you purchase a new seven pin plug for spare parts or use with JD. More than a few ownes like the one below. With or without the cable. It is one that John Davies suggested. If you have a spare few inches in your existing you could just get the 7-pin end. I had those inches and did just the end. Next time I'll have to get the full cable shown below. Amazon.com or Tractor Supply are both good sources for a lot of what we need. The cable connections are easy, getting the "Right" wire into the proper peg of the cord is complex. Having the same color to color at the box makes life a lot easier. Good luck. GJ

John, if the hitch was closed and locked closed…..maybe a dumb question but are you sure that your hitch ball is in fact 2 inches and not 1 7/8? Accurately measure with calipers.

June 7th went by and our Oliver has been parked for a few weeks on the corner of our property. The A/C running, set at 80F on battery (😎) since it's getting hot again. We've had a most beautiful Spring that has literally lasted for months. Clear skies every day until some clouds blew in. Just heard some thunder, always hoping for rain. Maybe a monsoon or two will come early this year... I forgot all about her on our third anniversary! We're not traveling again until Labor Day which starts our new travel season and there's nothing big scheduled in mods like our last two summers. She looks and performs a whole lot better than she did 3 years ago! 🤣 The 7th is also Chris' birthday! I certainly did not forget that nor our 32nd wedding anniversary on the 1st! Charley turned 12 yesterday. He got a summer cut and a bone! He loves traveling in our tow vehicle and camping in the Oliver! (see pic above) Thankful to have our Oliver! It's improved our lifestyle, with the ability to leave on moment's notice and glamp (never really liked that word but how true it is). Looking forward to another great year with our Oliver. Even giving some thought to that Rally...

Yes, but... RV dealers are notorious for not wanting to service RVs they didn't sell. I imagine they'll still do warranty work but I'll bet they won't be interested in non-warranty service of a brand they no longer carry. Time will tell.

This could be nothing. Could be something squeaking from the new leaf springs. Alcan torque numbers are high. The springs or a very tight bolt can squeak. But to answer your first question, "should I be worried?" There are things you could look into... First thing you can do in the morning, parked at the campsite, is use your stabilizer jack to lift that side up. Spin both tires one at a time. Hopefully you do not here squeaking running this test because it would mean a Nev-R Lube bearing is failing. However, this is not a conclusive test, since when lifted there is no load on the wheel bearings. These bearings can last many years, warrantied for 5 years, but can fail at any time. A low probability cause since your Oliver is relatively new, unless a whole lot of miles have been towed. Also, with the wheels lifted do the 3 - 9 o'clock position pushing back and forth and 6 - 12 positions to see if there is any free play. If good, you should NOT be able to budge the wheels at all. After you break camp, do some slow towing forward and backing up in an open area where you can take your time. One of you driving, the other with ears close the Oliver wheels on the side it's squeaking. See if you can reproduce the sound and try to pinpoint the location if possible. Your shocks look terrible! The bushings were greatly over-tightened when installed (bushings flat and way too many threads showing above the top washer). Shocks can make squeaking sounds. This would be your best-case scenario as you can drive to Texas and back without shocks on an Oliver without causing harm. In fact, if you believe it is a particular shock, remove it to see if the squeaking goes away. At some point they should be replaced, but they are not critical in your getting home. If it gets worse and you're not too far already from Alcan Springs, it may be a good idea to go back. You're a customer. They have the tools and expertise and would certainly take the time to help you. If it is a bearing failure, they could change it for you, and likely under warranty on a 2023 trailer! They are a Dexter Authorized Reseller. At least call Lew or Tim. Let them know of your situation and get their advice and help if needed. If it doesn't get any worse, you could play it by ear and continue to Wyoming. Keep in mind a return through Grand Junction to Alcan Springs may be necessary if it gets worse. This sure beats being somewhere else in the country, far from home, not knowing where to go for service. Best wishes to you in your travels! JD

I'm trying my best to help, reading your posts carefully, advising based on my experience. My written words are not always kind, but I am a caring person. I understand the frustration you have endured. Love of your Oliver is likely equal to my love of ours with all I've put into its care. How is it you know this? Does "was" mean in the past? I believe the word AND to mean defects exist simultaneously in both truck and trailer. I cannot arrive at this conclusion from what you have written and it's more likely a one or the other issue. Before you do anything else, please pull another trailer that's not your Oliver. If you get the same error message, even once for a few seconds on your truck while towing an alternate trailer, then it's the truck's brake controller system that needs service and you Oliver is fine as-is except for wiring cosmetics. If you stay hitched to another trailer for most of the day, start and stop, tow it on and off several times and not a glimpse of the same error message, then Oliver service is required. You do not need garage or tools to rent a U-Haul trailer. Your issue is not likely the grommet on your brake backing plate, though yes there is a small chance it could be a brake wire shorting which the ammeter test could prove.

I chose the 4000K color temp. It seems fairly close to the stock light. I changed all of the under cabinet light out so the light is consistent. I did not change the ceiling or the inside cabinet lights. In terms of the blue night light feature I doubt that I'll use that very much.

I believe that it's used for a certain model of refrigerator that used 110VAC. My '23 model has one as well. Oliver wanted to have an AC option available if they decided to change refrigerator types / brands. The end of the cord in my trailer feeds up to the back of the refrigerator but it isn't connected to anything (since I have a 12V refrigerator). It's basically an extension cord.

The latest and greatest Battle Born saga: Will Prowse’s response to Battle Born’s technical note confirming their batteries are working perfectly!

We are still on our yearly western sojourn but I have 2 x 300Ah Epoch’s waiting for me at home. If you are using BB’s, I certainly can’t promise you they will fail. But if they do, I can promise you it won’t be in a convenient place.

The Oliver service department utilizes ASI 335 white & clear silicone, Red Devil butyl sealant, butyl tape, and Dicor self-leveling sealant to re-caulk/reseal the exterior of your camper. This process is based on years of experience here in the Oliver service department addressing and preventing leaks on our trailers. The primary goal when re-caulking/resealing at service intervals, especially roof penetrations, is ensuring there are no leaks. The roof is an area that is not typically seen unless you climb up on top but, again, is the most likely area for a leak to occur. Due to Oliver’s double fiberglass hull construction, any leaking water is trapped between the hulls until the water can find an escape point. Those points are typically a window cutout or one of the weep holes in the lower outer shell. Windows being a primary entry point often leads to an initial diagnosis that the window is leaking which is not necessarily the case. During the yearly maintenance, the exterior is sealed with the appropriate ASI 335 silicone. Once the silicone is cured, bolts and screws located on the roof then have an additional application of self-leveling sealant to provide an additional layer of protection, again, these areas aren’t typically seen to affect the aesthetics of the trailer. The additional layer also helps protect the silicone from sun exposure as well as sealing the head of screws and/or bolts. This precautionary step can be removed from the process if you prefer to have neat caulk seams over the extra protective layer of self-leveling sealant. The primary goal here at Oliver is to provide you the customer with a trailer free of leaks for enjoyable camping adventures.