Leaderboard

Yep. plywood. I'm also trying to figure out a position to mount it so that I have room to store our vortex heater in there as well. I've been doing that already, but it's a tight fit and I want the inverter to have proper room to breathe.

I’m doing a number of things. I wanted to mount my inverter more solidly, and since it’s in the front dinette seat I figured it was now or never if I wanted to get rid of the black tank. Then as part of redoing the inverter I wanted to reroute the heavy cables back to the battery, since they were all run through some tight spots with no extra space for protective looms. They’re heavy welding cables but I still will feel better if they’re run through a loom and not wedged tight between the fiberglass. Taking out the sewer line gave me much more room for both those and the existing Oliver wiring. It also preps for if I ever decide to place some batteries in the space below the pantry, which is something in the back of my mind. And while I’m in there I’m cleaning, zip tieing, etc. I also widened the hole under the toilet for better access to the wiring and plumbing under it and I think that’s where I’ll smuggle drugs store extra peat for the toilet. Just need to figure out a basket or something to keep the bags from getting lost in the hull. And yes, then comes the sink & faucet mod which I’m still researching (and waiting for Oliver to get back on selling me a new countertop without holes cut in it).

My interpretation of the OP was that the parking pad was low in the back Mike

Over the past 11 years, our jack bubble has mysteriously disappeared a few times, and reappeared later. Gremlins? Temperature change? Altitude change? Not sure. It's also never been totally accurate. I keep a little pocket level velcroed just inside the door. Sherry

In addition, Cedarforks did some really nice schematics of the plumbing system. You might want to PM him in this regard. Bill

"Since you always carry your phone" Really? Sure must have a long cord in order to reach that far! Seriously - I do carry a prepaid Tracfone that I only use for emergencies and, yes, I do have that "swiss army knife" app which includes a bubble level. But, with the little levels stuck on the side of the camper I don't have to be getting out that phone and getting it in the same spot that I use to leveling each time - I simply just look at the level that is already there. Sometimes simple is actually better. Bill

I really like the Level Mate Pro and iPhone app. No need to get out of TV, the app lets me know how many inches to get level, and riding up onto the Andersen leveler (banana shaped leveler) until reaching the perfect level. Very good leveling system, no bubbles needed.

There are a lot of them, this is the one I use. It's called Bubble Level Galaxy

I mentioned this some time ago there is a app for your phone ( Bubble level) it has a bubble level, surface level, gyroscope, plumb line, and a metal detector. Since you alway carry your phone you’ll always have a level for your Ollie, works great for me. Very accurate.

Just curious was the back too low or the front?

Hi John, Message sent. I agree I would not use the X-chock stabilizer on a steep incline. However, I have noticed that the chocks are not really secure when up on legos, and so I will follow Mike's advice and use the X-chocks in a belts-and-suspenders approach.

David, Thanks for the correction on the wheel stabilizers! Good information. I won't do that. I have a set and have never used them. Too much slope for the common wheel chocks and I get nervous. I remember reading about some guy driving off with a set still on his wheels as they skidded along! Yikes. Hey, we'll be in Salt Lake at the end of August. Will you be around? Picking up our new HQ19 at that time and going on a shake down cruise. Always looking for suggestions for nice boondocking spots. Missed you guys at the rally. John

An X-chock has been on my list for a while. I think in a previous post Mike had mentioned the X-chock as a valuable safety feature when the trailer is elevated on legos. Additionally, they are supposed to stabilize the trailer; my wife complains that the trailer sways when I walk around. Right now the highly rated BAL X-Chock Wheel Stabilizers are available for $55; camel says they are normally $70. I don't think that is a good idea to install the Stabilizer until the trailer is leveled and disconnected from the tow vehicle It was useful to read through the Amazon comments and questions on the Stabilizer. The manufacturer says that they are not chocks, they are stabilizers. One question was "Can we apply these before we unhitch our trailer to prevent any roll back when it comes off the ball?" One answer was very succinct: "BAL includes a notice in the package stating this caveat. The force applied by the wheels rotating opposite directions when you raise/lower the tongue jack will over stress the crossmembers and cause them to buckle. This is not covered under warranty. You still need actual wheel chocks until the trailer is leveled and your other stabilizers are down. "

Leaving the safety chains connected is very good insurance. I carry a couple of 3X6s about 12" long each, that I can back up onto, and a longer 1X6 that both rear wheels will roll onto. These get put in place while still hooked up. You can unplug the umbilical to shut off the trailer brakes to help when doing this. Then block the trailer and use the tandem axle wheel clamps, as suggested. Then lift the coupler off the ball, drive forward about 3", safety chains still connected, and drop the front jack all the way down, as far as it will go, to try to get level. Lifting the trailer clear off the ground with the jacks is OK, to me, but the jacks are then holding it from rolling too. That is a very unfair strain on the jacks. I don't mind the front of the trailer being slightly high, as we sleep with our heads toward the front, and it allows the tanks to drain better if hooked up. But I don't like steep sites, especially when there is an abyss behind us.

Denise, Good idea to keep your safety chains (or cables) attached to your TV! When in any doubt, keep those on!! Topgun pretty much laid out all your options. Do you carry a shovel? Very handy for these situations. It will allow you to create a flat spot to stack your blocks, and in your case, trench out a spot to drop your tongue in to. Just be sure to put it in a plastic bag to keep the dirt out of it. Personally, I'd hate to put in right on the ground, even in a bag, but maybe use one block. Question: So has it been decided that temporary (a day or two) lifting of the rear wheels off the ground with the onboard jacks is not a good practice? I know it's best to block up the wheels and use the jacks more as stabilizers, but in extreme situations..?? Dave

I also had a site at Davis Mountain State Park that was bad. I ended up parking a bit sideways to make it work. One thing to add to your chocks and blocks is an x-chock that fits between the wheels when up on legos or wood. Mike

A photo would help us see how steep you’re talking about, but we’ve had our tongue digging into the dirt before. If you can, keep the breakaway cables attached to the truck. Use the legos under the jacks so that you can chock the tires better.

I assume that you are talking about the little circular level that is located at the top of the tongue jack. I don't know what happened to your bubble, but, those levels are really not very good. Yes, it can get you in the ballpark but since it is spring mounted it can be a fair amount off true level. I'd recommend a stop at Walmart where you can purchase a set of two little levels for a couple of bucks. After making sure that your camper is actually level (using at least a 9 inch level - three foot or longer is preferable) mount one on the side of the Ollie (for front to back leveling) and the other somewhere near the front jack (for side to side leveling). Your days of wondering where the bubble went are over. Bill

deniwell - As I'm sure you already know, your only choice is to either (in your situation) is to either elevate the rear, dig out the area for the tongue or simply move. If you can't get it reasonably level within a reasonable amount of time/work then that is another reason you have wheels - move. Having said this - that must have been one heck of a campsite. There is just less than a foot of elevation differential just from the tongue to the wheels which already allows for a fair amount of slope correction. Add another 4 to 6 inches or so by using Andersens or "legos" or wood boards and you get one heck of a slope. Bill

I've never had a camping spot that was that bad, but I had one at Fort Davis State Park in Texas that was just about unusable for parking a Casita. I finally made it work by borrowing some 2x6's and using my Anderson leveler, I was really high on the street side of the camper. All being said, I wasn't too happy with that spot and told the park personal, do you really think campers with trailers can use that spot, I couldn't get another spot as the park was booked solid for the next 5 days. trainman

Just thought that I would share our way of keeping our trailer tires off of the ground and from developing flat spots when storing our Oliver Legacy Elite II at home. We use these Anderson levelers on both sides. They keep the tires off of the ground and on a rounded surface. When we travel, we only take one set. They are great for leveling. You need only to put them under the tires and roll up onto them until you are level side by side. At home, we roll the trailer up on them on both sides and use the electronic stabilizes to relieve just a little weight from the tires. (Not shown, of course, are the tire covers put on after rolling onto the Anderson levelers.)