Townesw

I remember thinking that the rough streets were going to rattle my trailer apart.

Liberty Harbor is really just a tight fitting parking lot with water and electric, no sewer. There is a dump station. When we were there it was pretty rough. We walked to a subway station and then rode over to Manhattan. I’m glad we visited NYC in late September, 2019 because I don’t think we’ll ever go back. Smelled like urine. People sleeping on the streets and eating out of overflowing trash cans. My one and only trip to NYC. On a positive note we saw a play on Broadway about a green witch, saw Billy Joel at MSG, had a very interesting tour guide, and ate some good food. We did enjoy our trip to North and West New York State though. You can see the Statue of Liberty from Liberty Harbor RV Park.

@Dale C Which thread and which posts are you referring to?

Hook up to a loaded trailer weighing about 5400 lbs and pull it around and see what you think. That should give you some idea. What I found is that numbers on paper or computer screen don’t take into account real life driving scenarios.

Agree with Bill and Mike regarding Fall Hollow.

If you aren’t broken down on the side of the road somewhere and have a little while to work on it I would try one of these. I also applied some dry silicone lube to the threaded stud and the knob goes on and off much easier.

I used Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 clevis slip hooks (WLL 6600 lbs) because they fit the holes in the hitch and Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 transport chain (WLL 6600 lbs) because it fit the hooks. I had some stainless steel spacers turned to 1.360” diameter, one at 1.740” long, two at 0.55” long, and two at 0.30” long. A hole bored through the spacers fits a 1/2 bolt. The 1.740” spacer just slips inside the tongue when the hitch bolts are loosened. The bolt is a 1/2 inch grade 8 because I didn’t want to enlarge the holes in the tongue. The unthreaded portion of the bolt extends almost to the outside edge of the last SS spacer. The middle photo shows the bolt before I shortened it and a regular nut for fitting purposes. I cut the excess threads off, secured it with a new Nylock nut and covered it with a new Radolid VCI nut cap.

If you are determined to use the Anderson you can use a sleeve (it’s there, you can’t see it) on the shank and a Hitch Vise to eliminate the rattle. I used this set up (without the chains and plate) on my 3/4 ton until I had a custom ball mount made. I still use the Hitch Vise with my 2.5 inch ball mount. It’s machined from a solid piece of 1018 CR steel square stock. The setback on it is 1 inch shorter than the Anderson mount, and I may reduce it more. It has a 5/8 inch drop as shown and a 7/8 inch drop if flipped. With truck and trailer loaded the trailer rides slightly nose down.

@SeaDawgTell me about this butyl tape that you used to bed the fan.

Thanks for your interest. I don’t have any extras right now. I have looked into having some laser cut and if there was enough interest I would make up several sets. It just takes too long to make these by hand and sell them at a reasonable price.

RVUpgrades has one more of the MaxxFan Domes without the LED in stock right now. I have one on order. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/MaxxAir-00-03812W-MaxxFan-Dome-Roof-Vent-p/14-9983.htm

@IL_Travelers thanks for the picture. I can see what I need to see in that picture.

@IL_Travelersdo you have more pictures of your loaded and hitched truck that show how far that Rockstar full width flap is from the ground? I like that style flap because I also have a Duramax and I like the way the Rockstar handles the exhaust.

SOP

@Galway GirlI thought so. We were in the same site a few weeks ago.

@Galway Girl is that site number 53 at West Glacier KOA?

From what I’ve read Coleman propane stoves operate off about 15 psi. The low pressure from your trailer quick connect is about 10 inches WC which is about 0.36 psi.

Read this thread. My original cartridge was leaking. I replaced it and have not had any more problems.

@Galway Girl How has this Optronics 7 pin plug holder worked out? I read some reviews that said it was hard to get the plug in the holder and some reviews that said that the “latch” wouldn’t hold the plug if mounted vertically.

My exposed front tongue and rear bumper look like they were orbital sanded with high grit sandpaper. I can see very shallow circular patterns.

Send a note to Jason Essary through the service ticket system.

I read on the internet (so it has to be true😜) that the Atwood LP/CO detectors aren’t being made anymore so I asked Jason Essary what was being installed in new Olivers. He said they are using RV Safe Alarms now. https://rvsafealarm.com/

@Ray and Susan HuffIf you don’t mind look at the back of the detector and see what the “born on” date is and what part number it is.

@John E DaviesIs that your original detector? It’s interesting to note that you have Hull number 218 and your detector was manufactured on March 15, 2016. I have hull number 313 and my detector’s date of manufacture is January 25, 2015.