Rivernerd

Oliver Service is right. The tow vehicle for my 2022 Elite II is a 2019 Tundra, 5.7L V8 with tow package. The top of my Andersen hitch ball sits precisely 23-1/2" from the ground, on a level concrete surface, without the trailer attached. Of course, when the trailer is attached the truck squats a bit, which then results in a level towing position. I am quite particular about ensuring that the trailers I tow sit level when towed. Placing the top of the Andersen hitch ball at 23-1/2" off a level floor, with a Tundra, will result in a level towing position for an Elite II, if both the truck and trailer are properly loaded. See photo below.

"Any other suggestions for keeping the little critters out. Are others using screens or ?. " It is recommended to spray peppermint oil in areas where you want to deter mud dauber nest building: "Repel Them With Peppermint Oil With only a few drops of peppermint oil in warm water, you can stop mud daubers from making their nests around your home. Pour the mixture into a sizeable spray bottle, and spray it on spots where you don't want the insects to visit. Peppermint odor is very active in keeping mud daubers away. However, you may need to apply this mixture frequently. This is because you could have an infestation as soon as the odor wears off." From: https://www.imperialpestprevent.com/post/rid-your-home-of-mud-daubers

They are called combustible gas detectors. The best ones have both visual and audible alerts. I like this one, available from Amazon for $32, if you can get it delivered where you are: https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Detector-Portable-Combustible-Explosive/dp/B07FSVCSSL/ref=asc_df_B07FSVCSSL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343320284310&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1399517356399337030&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-656039150139&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68608912305&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343320284310&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1399517356399337030&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-656039150139 Combustible gas detectors can enable you to find leaks in places you can' reach with a soap+H2O solution. The closer you get to the leak, the louder the alarm (if properly calibrated), and the greater the number of LEDs lit on the visual display. Yes. The propane line that feeds the water heater runs from the forward propane tanks to the aft location of the water heater. The leak could be at the water heater, but you might smell it along the path of the propane line. Also, the water heater is easier to access (from the outside) than the interior area under the stove. I would try a soap and water solution now to try and rule that out, even before you get a combustible gas detector. It could be as simple as a loose flare fitting at the Truma water heater. I would also daub a 50/50 dish soap+H2O solution along the path of the copper propane line as it runs underneath the trailer to the water heater, and to the rear quick connect fitting, with the line pressurized (by having the propane tank valves open). You may find a leak along that line. Good luck, and please report what you find!

Yes. I have thoroughly checked all DC and AC connections, and they are secure.

My LBCO is set at 12.0V, per Oliver's recommendation. And yet I still get a 1.0 to 1.1 differential between actual and Xantrex reported battery voltage, and inverter shutdown when under a 1500 watt+ load, except right after a hard reboot. After a hard reboot, the reported voltage difference is in the .03 to .06V range.

Following my first hard reboot in May, our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter once again shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts at less that 100% State of Charge. So I tried just turning off all three batteries, as suggested by Geronimo John. Although I left the batteries off for a couple of days before turning them back on, the inverter still shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts. So, I did a second hard reboot by physically disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables from the inverter, and waiting 3 days. For reasons I do not understand, physically disconnecting the battery cables enabled the inverter to once again handle loads over 1400 watts, while just turning off the batteries did not. How long the effects of that second hard reboot will last remains to be seen. Tom and Doreen: have you done a hard reboot on your Xantrex inverter? If so, what were the results?

That is why I ultimately invested in a second Champion Dual Fuel 2200 watt generator and a splitter so I could run both from one 5-gallon propane tank. The lower output on propane requires the second inverter/generator to run our Truma AC (which has no easy start installed).

To avoid precisely the problems you are encountering, I carry a spare 5-gallon propane tank in the bed of my pickup tow vehicle, and run my two Champion Dual Fuel 2200 watt generators with a splitter from that tank with the OEM regulators. That spare tank also provides backup in case my two primary 5-gallon tanks run low. For me, an easier solution.

Please submit a service ticket, even though you apparently fixed the oversight yourself so your pump would function as it should. Oliver needs to be advised of this obvious quality control failure. Based on my experience with Hull #1291, and review of dozens of reports like yours on this forum, Oliver's attention to detail and quality control during production is, at best, inconsistent. Very sad given the premium price charged.

Mobilejoy: We deferred our delivery date last year, and paid the premium, to get the Truma Aventa AC. It works well. But, I have no basis for comparing the Truma to a Dometic Freshjet. At this point, the Truma Aventa is a known performer. The Freshjet is not. And, it is a "Demonic" product, from a company that has been known to cut corners to improve the bottom line. In your shoes, I would keep my appointment with Oliver and pay the Truma premium. Once the Freshjet has a significant track record, my analysis may be different. That said, in Roadlotus' shoes, I would also keep the appointment for installation of a Freshjet. The travel to Hohenwald for a retrofit would be a "deal breaker" for me as well.

I'll bet Les Schwab will sell you LT tires for your Oliver. But, I wonder why you so strongly prefer LT tires. Do the ST tires offered have fewer plies or less aggressive tread (for your gravel road adventures)?

That is one reason I placed ours in the closet. It is not real attractive, but we never see it unless we are looking for it, mounted above door height, on the interior closet wall. You raise a good point about securing it with screws, rather than Velcro or double-stick tape, to avoid having to re-level the trailer.

Please forgive my ignorance, but what is the "EMS" under the rear dinette seat? Are you referring to the 12V fuse block? Or the main 12V grounding bar?

Never disconnect the trailer from your tow vehicle unless the trailer wheels are well chocked first. We use rubber chocks on the downhill side of the trailer tires, as well as X-chocks, before removing the trailer coupler from the hitch ball. Don't ask me why this became such an important rule for us...

No photos visible to me.

Your coupler will work better if you spray it with WD40 at least twice per year, then open/close the coupler several times to work it in to the mechanism. WD40 is also a good rust inhibitor.

Our Lithionics G31 130Ah batteries have on/off switches. Do you believe that just turning off all 3 of those batteries would perform a hard reboot?

By "ac fans" do you mean your air conditioner? If so, that could explain the substantial draw down on your batteries. Our Truma AC pulls about 1100 watts when the compressor is running.

I expect this works fine if you only camp in warm weather. We sometimes camp in cold weather, and depend on the propane furnace to keep the trailer warm overnight. I prefer to know before retiring to bed that we have sufficient propane in the current tank to run the furnace all night.

I am keenly interested in the results from the hard reboot of your Xantrex inverter. Please post on this thread after you have completed the process.

When returning home from the Oregon Coast this April, my wife and I boondocked at a Harvest Host site. That cold evening, we tried to heat water for hot drinks in the microwave using the inverter, but it shut down after just a few seconds. We were surprised and disappointed, because our Lithium Pro Package with Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter should enable us to use the microwave on inverted power for at least a few minutes. It had been a cloudy day so we got minimal solar recharge, and with our Nordcold fridge running on DC while on the road, our battery State of Charge was down to about 74%. When we submitted a service ticket, Jason Essary confirmed that we should be able to run the microwave on inverted power at 74% State of Charge (SOC), and much lower, down to 25-30% SOC. With Jason's helpful guidance, I then spent dozens of hours trying to troubleshoot the electrical system, both on the DC and the AC sides. The inverter/charger was charging as designed, and would run 120V appliances that pull up to 1100-1200 watts (including the Truma air conditioner, which pulls 1100 watts with the compressor running), but loads greater than 1400 watts (like the microwave or a space heater on a high setting) caused the inverter to shut down. Nothing we tried solved the problem, including replacement of the Optifuse 300A inverter breaker, which Oliver sent to me under warranty. I also spoke with a Xantrex customer service rep (after45 minutes on eternahold) who assured me the problem could not be with the inverter, so it must be in the trailer wiring. Jason then authorized me to engage an RV service tech at Oliver's expense to try to find a solution. But that was right before I had planned to use the trailer boondocking at the Lochsa River the week of May 15. I decided to engage a tech after I returned home. But while camping (and running the Lochsa river during the day) I happened to mention the inverter issue to another RVer. He asked me if my inverter is a Xantrex. Yup. He then told me he had been advised by an RV service tech to do a "hard reboot" of his Xantrex inverter to resolve a similar issue. He explained that this involves disconnecting both the positive and negative DC cables from the inverter, and leaving it at least overnight, then reconnecting. I determined to give it a try after I returned home, as it would be relatively easy to do. To my surprise, the "hard reboot" solved the problem. My tests have confirmed that we can now run the microwave on full power (1540 watts) for 4 minutes or more at a time, at SOC levels down to 35%. So, the Xantrex customer service guy was wrong--the problem was with the inverter. And, the solution was relatively easy to implement: turn off all batteries, and ensure that shore power is disconnected (so there is no power to the DC cables), then disconnect the DC cables from the inverter and leave at least overnight. I left mine disconnected for 3 days. Then reconnect, and turn the batteries back on. If your Xantrex inverter is not performing up to spec, try a hard reboot.

I use the Mopeka tank sensor system. It sends reports to an app downloaded onto my phone. It works well. About $70 from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-024-1002-Propane-Indicator/dp/B01C5RQKJA/ref=asc_df_B01C5RQKJA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312067194179&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12444925943405525704&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-492064932214&psc=1

Please forgive my ignorance, but why the white hose through the bathroom window and into the toilet? Is the Oliver-installed flush valve below the window not good enough?

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I am not Craig, but I did live in the Seattle area for 35 years. Any time between July and September will be fairly crowded, because July and August are the sunny, dry months on the west side of the Cascades. On average, the fall/winter/spring rainy season begins around mid-September, and lasts until the 5th of July. And, schools usually start in early September, right after Labor Day. To minimize crowding but maximize the chance of good weather, I would go the first couple of weeks of September, right after school starts but (hopefully) before the 9-month drizzly/cloudy season begins. If your sojourn will last longer than 2 weeks, you will encounter more competition for campsites in August (before school starts), and a lower likelihood of good weather after mid-September. Hope this helps.