jd1923

Why MPII vs. original Multiplus? What other Victron HW? Thanks

That's a good way of wording it. My 2WK Xantrex is inverter only (no charger and no ATS). All it does is supply 120V AC to two plug-in outlets. The switching in this system occurs in the PROwatt SW, an external switch.

You're not misunderstanding. Without doing the math myself, Victron's numbers appear correct. Over-engineering is common in DIY efforts and going to heavier gauge cable doesn't hurt, just costs more money. OTT installed 4/0 in our hull too. The length of the run, from the batteries to our 2KW inverter under the rear dinette seat is about 1m or 4 ft at most. The Oliver is over-engineered in many ways, and we appreciate that. The cost difference of 2-3m of 4/0 over 1/0 cable, at wholesale to a manufacture, is not much and they are being over-safe for a few bucks. When I go to install a DC-to-DC charger, two cables the length of TV and TT, likely over 25m, I will buy the gauge required and nothing more due to the retail cost of copper today!

This is the issue. For example, at home we program our thermostat for summer A/C temps between 78 degrees in the heat of the afternoons and much cooler to 74 overnight to keep some air movement and sleep better. For winter heat, the numbers are much lower; down to 64 degrees prior to dawn and up to 70 in the evenings. This makes us comfortable at home. The last thing I want in the Oliver, or anywhere else for that matter, is for when it gets naturally cooler overnight approaching dawn is for the heat pump to come on when the temp gets 1-2 degrees lower, OMG! A valid design has at least two set temps, one for each system (at home we have 4 per day for A/C and 4 more for heat). Why do these design engineers not understand something so basic. When I talked to Kevin at SDG, the Atmos rep and installation co., he explained it in this way. I asked him, why would I want that? He explained it as a positive feature, and I replied that to me this is an issue. I would rather the A/C not have heat pump, or at least the ability to turn it off. We use the ceiling A/C when it's hot, run the LP furnace when it/s cold and I have NEVER seen a 24-hour period where we want or need both.

From the Mulitplus manual: "Automatic and uninterruptible switching In the event of a supply failure or when the generating set is switched off, the MultiPlus will switch over to inverter operation and take over the supply of the connected devices. This is done so quickly that operation of computers and other electronic devices is not disturbed (Uninterruptible Power Supply or UPS functionality). This makes the MultiPlus highly suitable as an emergency power system in industrial and telecommunication applications." The ability for the inverter to choose between an AC source or DC battery power is what I meant by internal ATS and ALL Victron 3KW inverter/chargers (and greater models) have this functionality. They all also have Power Assist, which is not only internal switching but smart partial switching when shore power is lacking in covering the full load, it pulls what's necessary from the battery bank. Another way to word this is these more capable inverters do not require an external switch, like the Xantrex PROwatt SW (see pic1) or the KISAE TS20 that some of us have added to switch the air conditioning between AC/DC. The common usage of the term ATS in a RV is the switching between generator and shore power, like the PD5100 (see pic2) installed in our Olivers. The Quattro can switch AC/DC uninterruptable as the Multiplus and ALSO has the capability to switch between 2 AC sources like the PD5100, hence the PD could be eliminated if installing a Quattro. I thought about this for about a second, but it's more expensive and I'm not running a generator anyway with a 3KW inverter and 600AH in new LiFePO4 batteries. I had a PD5100 fry in our Bigfoot RV that I replaced, but if it does so in the Oliver with this upgrade we'll just run on the inverter. It's funny in the video, he used the name Multiplus all through the video and in his last sentence he said "Quattro." The 3KW Multiplus, MPII, Quattro, and other high-end models, all have a 50A line1 output. In my hull the Xantrex PROwatt SW is wired to all AC circuits but the air conditioner. The purpose of the KISAE TS20 is to add another ATS for the air. When the Multiplus is installed, given 50A output for a 30A panel, it will be wired to all loads on the panel, including the air conditioner, and no need for external switches like the Xantrex PROwatt SW and KISEA TS20! Why not?

I got ours done today and I asked Chris to walk on it first with her light touch. I didn't want to even climb aboard with my work shoes on! 🤣 Yes, they will get dirty again as soon, as we hit an Arizona dirt road, likely September. Man, all-in-all this turned out really nice! Dirty later yes, but I can pull it down and put it up with one centered hand and just a light push. I did make a minor modification, adding washers to take up space on the axle, since there was about 3/8" of left to right slop (way too much). The added washers cut that in half. This is some of the issue in the difficulty in working the steps. Anybody considering this full maintenance, order a new set of short splined Torx bolts from OTT first (see pic). These are very short and upon compression, they get somewhat deformed. I was able to rethread one, but not the other after many attempts. Temporarily I used a 5/16" bolt with nylock nut. I have rebuilt a half dozen old car and truck suspensions, done over 20 brake jobs and if I could not get these bolts to thread, most DIYers would not have a chance, I promise. I have another item or two I want to order from OTT and will likely by 3 of these. One to replace the bad one and a pair for the next time (unless they cost $20 each)! The secret in getting the steps to push and pull smoothly is to file the up-n-down slanted groove where the axle lies (pic above). Then I lubed all contact point with Napa Sil-Glyde: Lubricant - Multi Purpose Sil-Glyde Lubricates 4oz. Plastic Tube BK 7651351 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) I've used this product in multiple brake jobs, rebuilding the calipers on my '84 Goldwing and more (lasting for YEARS now). After rubbing it into every contact point, the ends of the axle, every spacer and washer, the bottom edge where the steps contact the frame, and the frame contact points too (not a WD-40 fan)... Work the steps back and forth several times and then spend time removing all the excess, as excess grease collects dirt. I'm not going to fight with these steps anymore, and for years to come!

@rich.dev has the 3KW Xantrex. I hope your model has built-in ATS. I'm replacing for sure and will purchase next week now that our batteries are on the way. My criteria for replacing is the 2KW inverter is first that it's borderline on running the A/C for any period of time in HOT conditions. Also, I've never purchased an inverter without built-in ATS, can't have the goofy 15A outlets. Those are for those that cannot wire an AC outlet, just plug in the blow dryer right into the inverter! 🤣 My inverter must have built-in ATS with hardwired 120V AC IN and OUT terminals (I also want to know if the Victron Multiplus fails, is the fail-safe condition is that it still allows pass-thru shore power AC). So, back to the questions posed above...

Not much better than what we have! Most owners of travel trailers are getting out with their cordless impact guns screwing down manual jacks. The VP-3000 jacks work great. I start my LevelMatePRO App when we arrive at a site, choose the most level spot. Get out and place the Andersen leveling chocks. Pull up or back to level and adjust the 3 jacks. We get level to 0.00” in 2-3 minutes every time since adding the LevelMate. Had a Bigfoot class-c, fancy $4K hydraulic leveling system. What a PITA! So many times, we got close, but not good. Had to drop all the jacks and start over. I did a complete rebuild on the front jack, our hull being 8 years old. I have a thread here about that. Not doing the rears, as my mechanic’s ear says, they sound great. The rears are out of weather and are used less. Don’t do the maintenance as in the OTT video, check my post instead, as it’s just “lipstick on a pig!”

Would never had thought of that! Another reason I’m never owning one of them. I put them with EVs, modern products NFM!

Very cool @Ronbrink, they look great! Keep us posted. They support many makes & models, but too bad for me they only have product for the 6.7L Cummins Ram (2011+) and not the older 5.9L.

In what I've read so far, at least @Overland and @Ty J, and more recently @rideadeuce have upgraded to the Victron 3KVA Multiplus or MPII. Maybe others? If I remember correctly, Overland installed the original Multiplus and others went with MPII. Does the Multiplus II truly have necessary features. I read 1 amp less draw on stand-by, thinner (but not actually smaller), anything else? I see just fitting the Multiplus in my current Xantrex location (rear dinette seat), where the MPII would certainly be too long. I'd like to avoid adding extra 12V cable length installing it under the bed area or front dinette seat, though there is nothing but room up front and I haven't yet moved that bed since I've been working on the other side. Overland worked a novel installation! He also stated (cannot find the quote today), something like you could keep the batteries in the battery bay or install the inverter there (he wrote it better). Wow, thank you, that got me thinking! Overland also commented the Multiplus was not noisy except when supplying a large AC load or upon shore power connection/bulk charging. It is quiet enough under the dinette seat when just using small AC appliances like when watching TV? Is the MPII truly more efficient? Could it be quieter? I just purchased two 300AH Epoch batteries and I cannot believe FedEx tracking says they will be here on Tuesday. It only makes sense to work these installs together.

Many of us with older hulls with solar have the Blue Sky SC model SB2512iX-HV. The language on this webpage is a bit ambiguous: SB2512 – Sunforge LLC Prior to further research, or calling tech support, can anybody answer this yes/no Q? Can the Blue Sky SC model SB2512iX-HV be reprogrammed for LiFePO4 batteries? I'd rather wait but if not, I will purchase a 50A Victron SC to handle the current load and possible upgrade to an additional rooftop or portable solar. Thanks

Why not just sit normally on the toilet seat, lid open? It's certainly more comfortable too!

It amazes me that since OTT created this defect, back when hull #110 was built, that they did not correct it now when you were in the shop. They should have cut out the old hangers, and welded new ones at their expense and then you could have paid for your desired axle upgrade.

You can use them temporarily, for example lifting high enough to mount the spare tire if you get a flat. As far as when camping, you want to have 90% of the weight on the tires and front jack. Use the rear jacks just for finish leveling. I use these to bring the trailer to the right height, left or right, and then apply the jacks for enough pressure so that the trailer does not wobble in the wind or when climbing the steps. Amazon.com: ANDERSEN HITCHES | 3604-2 2-Pack Camper Leveler System Must Have RV | Camping Travel Easy Storage Jack Stabilizer Block | Levelers Blocks for Campers and Fifth Wheels : Automotive

They should all fit the 14x14 opening. It's more so re thermostat change and how the condensate drips. Truma requires a special fiberglass build. Personally, I've had enough of Dometic, with the noisy Penguin in the Oliver and another Dometic where the fan lost alignment, shifted and jammed beyond repair in the Bigfoot we had. Anything but Dometic for me. @Geronimo John and several others have installed Houghton models, many threads here. @rideadeuce has scheduled a professional install of the Atmos 4.4 next week and I'm sure Mike will post info on that. I'm looking forward for this feedback compared to cited Houghton issues. Both of these models run the fan continuously which is something I will NOT live with. Known issues are humidity, not an issue for our climate, but I'm not sleeping with a fan running all night. Houghton has cycling issues, without moving the thermistor or something, not cool. There is a relay fix for the Houghton fan and if we go Atmos, I will figure out a relay fix, or hopefully somebody online does so first. The Atmos switches automatically from cooling to heat pump and can do so at dawn when it gets colder. I cannot get confirmation whether there are two set temps, for cooling vs. heat. Again, not cool. Is there a manufacture out there that understands these issues, who makes a better design?

I've warned about this in a few posts. I would fear issues with the ECM too, throwing codes. What kind of alternator is that? Chevy/GM Delco or more likely special aftermarket? Wow, twice the amps output of an OEM alternator. I would like to find one for the Cummins. 200A at highway speeds would be good enough!

Black tread and white powder-coat steps to match the Ollie. That would be so cool! I didn't consider that for the expense and a couple days driving back and forth to Phoenix in the summer (been 115 down there lately). Too bad there are no metal cleaning or powder coating services up here.

I should get mine off the shelf and install it. The list is still long!

Rich, I cannot swear by this product, just something I chose two years ago (wow, price has gone up 50%). The product works likes a paste wax easy to hand buff: Amazon.com: McKee's 37 Ceramic Wheel Sealant | Top Coat Polish, Brake Dust Repellent, and Ceramic Protectant for Wheels… : Automotive When restoring our '08 GX470, I purchased new KMC wheels. I felt the need to protect this investment for dirt roads we travel. As soon as Tire Rack delivered the wheel/tire combo, Chris helped with her better patience and rubbed this product into every opening of the new wheels. I rubbed it out and we worked a second coat. I don't have a recent picture, but they still look very nice. We run them through the car wash, and I pressure washed them a few times to clean within. I hope the Oliver steps look as good in a few years or more. I was thinking what can I use to slow aluminum oxidation after such deep sanding? I did some online looking and ceramic came up when I remembered, I have a tub of that!

I knew she was you Sherry, Jedi Master! You're the best and I am weak in my needs for my hi-rez TV monitor, with HD soundbar! 12V cannot compare for this and other needs. We must charge our laptops on the road, the Dewalt 20V charger for the many tools I use at home and some away (extra charger in the attic). Oh yeah, Chris uses a blow-dryer every few days when away and we will use our new oven likely every other day. We prefer to stay away from campgrounds, truly dislike RV parks, and soon will be able to do so more so with these batteries, an inverter/charger upgrade and other smaller upgrades as necessary. I would like to get to the point to lose the shore power cord. We avoid summer weather but run into it on occasion and want an efficient A/C and the ability to run it afternoons. This way we can travel anywhere in the west, spur of the moment, given the ample FS and BLM lands, camp almost anywhere without reservations and worry.

Any chance you can ask for the hard measurements? I’d like to measure mine to see. Thanks

Well @MAX Burner travels in and out of NM where it’s sunny 90% of the time and Art has a capable DC-to-DC charger. @rideadeuce Mike used his 920AH in a test running the A/C 8 hours on the highway. Beautiful pics btw, most showing dense clouds. Very soon you will have the Atmos A/C installed and that should run 50% longer, all else being equal. 600AH should be good for us. I will mount the two front-to-back. They are just under 14” at the base and will fit nicely. There will be 6” extra width in the tray to fill. If I want a 3rd in the future, I can remove the tray to fit another. We have Oliver owners where their style is not using an inverter. Personally, I don’t get that extreme. We just replaced our microwave with an air fryer and after this upgrade, Chris can run the oven anytime and anywhere. I’ll need an Inverter upgrade next and these batteries may sit on the shelf until I install both together, clean up the 4/0 cables. I was ready to spend $500 more for 920AH, if they had fit, but not double for 920AH with Victron Comms, that I would hardly have a need for.

Hull #113 now being 8 years old has needed a lot of upgrades and M&R our first year of ownership. A point of contention as always been the manual stairs, the back-breaking effort it takes to pull them down, metal on metal, and more so to put them up. I had greased the moving parts, and it did not seem to help much. Pressure washing it last time, an edge of the slip-resistant tape came off. Prior owner had wrapped the steps with some kind of rubber cushion and that dirtied the steps where it laid. They looked awful. It was time for proper restoration! I disassembled all components of the stairs so they could be cleaned and reconditioned in my shop. If you do this, make sure you have everything you need out of the Oliver as it is very difficult to get inside afterwards! First, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue on the tape and scraped it off. The glue residue was intense. I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, and it barely budged it. The rest I sanded off using a cordless Dewalt orbital sander and near a dozen sanding discs. There are better sanding tools, but this is what I had. After more and more detail sanding the aluminum started to look pretty good. The key detail work to getting the stairs to operate easier was to file the groove the axle slides within (see pic 2). I used a small hand file and spent an hour working it in the direction of the movement. Most of the machining marks were 90 degrees the wrong direction. I only sanded this groove on the base as I did not want to detail that whole frame, just the steps. I used this product for the stair surfaces: Amazon.com: 3M Safety-Walk Slip Resistant Tape, 4 in x 15 ft, Anti Slip Tape, Adhere Without Wrinkling, Curling, Tearing, Shrinking or Lifting, Self-Adhesive Backing For Quick & Easy Application (610B-R4X180) : Industrial & Scientific After sanding and placement of the anti-slip tape, I applied an automotive ceramic coating to all the sanded aluminum to slow oxidation. Got to this point today. Friday I will have time to remount. The frame is held on with 4 standard carriage bolts and nylon locknuts. The two stairs are connected to each other with a short, geared press-fit specialty bolt with a Torx-55 head, that are not easy to remove. Pictures were taken before applying the ceramic coating. It should look great when mounted. Boy, I hate sanding and polishing work! 🤣

Did hull #45 come with 5200 LB axles, or did you upgrade? Either way it should not be an issue for you. I was thinking @Wayfinder has 3500 LB axles and wanted to upgrade but could not for some reason, TBD or not. I have the lighter axles with EZ-Flex added and want to know what the deal with upgrading is to 5200s. Good thing for now mine are in excellent condition. OTT service by all accounts is wonderful for those who can afford the time, the travel and cost of getting there. Way too much for me on all accounts. Getting true specs and technical data from OTT is like pulling teeth. It would be great to learn something specific here.