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OTT Tire pressure is 65 psi. I do not have TPMS as of yet. I suppose I could drop it to 55 until I get a TPMS.

Trailer's have been wearing out tires for ages. They can run in an amazingly wide range of tire pressures successfully. However running above or below that "Sweet Range" and the tires will make you quite angry. So bottom line we are talking about where in the Sweet Range we should run our OE2's. I submit that all the recommendations above are less than optimal and should not blindly be used. So before you get out your flame throwers, ponder the below first. I believe that within the "Sweet Range": A. Tires run at a lower pressure likely have a better ride for Ollie, but they also require greater power to run down the highway. B. Tires run at lower pressure when damaged get to flat quicker than ones at a higher pressure. This results in less opportunity to get pulled over before you start trashing the highway with dismembered rubber tire components. C. Tires run at higher pressures are more prone to puncture from pot holes and road hazards. Especially so when off road. QUESTION: So GJ, how do you run most efficiently, at a pressure to be the most flat resistant mode, while giving Ollie the best ride, and provide my family the best safety margin should you have a puncture? Answer: You can't have it all at the same time. QUESTION: OK GJ, what tire pressure do you run your Ollie at? Answer: Depends. If I am on the interstate or good roads running at highways speeds I use 50 PSI. When I go off road, I air down to 30 PSI for most conditions. If I am transiting soft ground and need maximum sink resistance, then down to 20 PSI. QUESTION: But GJ that's a PITA isn't it? Answer: Nope. I use a TPMS and an IR temperature reader to keep a watch on bearings (With hub caps removed as JD suggested), have a quality calibrated air gauge, and have a 20V Dewalt compressor. Takes me less than 12 minutes to air up/down four Ollie tires between highway and off road mode. Point is that each of us have different trailer weights that can vary depending on our loads at the time. We also travel different paths that our trailers must endure. SO, is it "OK" to say I air my trailer tires to XX PSI? Sure if it is in the sweet spot. It may be OK, but it sure is not optimal for all purposes as your trailer weight varies, as do your road surfaces and speed. Hence, my recommended Ollie tire pressure is.... It depends. GJ

We were coming back to the Great Southwest after a month on the road to Key West, and running Goodyear Marathon/Chinabombs we experienced our first and only (knock on wood) right rear tire failure. We run TPMS, which worked perfectly, but a catastrophic failure happens in a couple dozen micro-secs. On a smooth secondary road in good WX, didn't hear anything - but we felt a slight tug and pulled over to inspect. What was left of the tire looked like a "ghost" - only belts and chunks of tread rubber, totally see-through. Fortunately, the relatively slow speed (25-30mph) may have helped to save the wheel well and we didn't experience any significant secondary damage. Limped over to a Discount Tire a few miles away and bought 5 Michelin RIBs. Thanks to having a spare axle!

I'll keep my F-150 for sure. Drats I'm a Sequoia fan but their marketing team missed the mark for some of us. For example: Don't want the third row. Don't want just a 1360# payload so ditch the hybrid system and increase the payload! Must have the Center Transfer Case with ability to select 2H, 4H, 4A, and 4L capability. Factory ability to TPMS four of Ollie's tires. Camera system that allows an Ollie rear camera to be added in at a reasonable cost. No dealer markup. At $65K+, surely they can provide a more capable machine for our boondockers. I figure in about 3 or 4 years, Toyota will have gotten the message. GJ

With lt or st tires, always use a tpms system. We run still on st tires. Very happy. As you will.

Goodyear Endurance are highly respected ST trailer tires. We use the TST TPMS system. Had a blowout with our first trailer.

No TPMS, though I probably should use them.. I just check them at each fuel stop. I'm getting to the stage where I want less electronic gadgets and motors in my life. 😄 Shopping them now, but leaning towards the Goodyear Endurance in ST225/75R15 based on reviews.

Great advice! Glad you caught it before you got under way. Do you use a TPMS? Let me know where you find a deal! Mossey

Well - not so much. Builtright charges $20 for that support plate if you order it along with the platform. Matt (president of Builtright) agreed to send me just the platform and I agreed to pay the $20 plus shipping. Therefore, by not ordering the support plate along with the platform I actually paid shipping twice - once for my original order of just the platform and then again for the shipment of the support plate. So, save yourself some money on the shipping costs by ordering both at the same time with the "PRO" version, if you have interest in hanging cell phones, TPMS systems, GPS's, laptops, rearview camera monitors, etc. off your dash. Bill

Great deal! I have the same GPS and I probably didn’t need the bracket but I bought it anyway. It went together seamlessly. I also opted for the 67 Designs Carbon Fiber Amps plate and a short Arm. This allows me to connect the magnetic part of the GPS mount to the amps plate and I get unlimited adjustments for viewing. I am going to mount my TPMS on another short arm and use a mag-mount on it, also from 67 Designs. This company has several examples of Built Right products on their page. Brian

We took delivery of our LE2 Twin Bed model, hull number 894, on September 16th. We stayed at the Oliver site the first night, then on to David Crockett SP for one night, then three nights at Fall Creek Falls SP, TN. After torrential rains enroute to Fall Creek Falls SP, followed by three days of nearly constant rain (got to know the inside of the trailer really well), we bailed on our plans to continue eastward to Great Smokey Mountains National Park, where three more days of rain was forecast. We decided to head back to the Oliver mothership to have a couple of issues dealt with before wending our way westward to Northern California. Our screen door latch failed, a first according to Jason. I removed the catch so we could open the door without fear of being locked in or out. The latch was replaced and has since been behaving. One of the Andersen WDH frame clamps moved, allowing the attached chain to become slack. The problem was traced to a cross-threaded set screw, which gave the impression of being tightened enough, but it was protruding from the frame clamp much more than the set screw on the other frame clamp, which should have been a clue to the installer. The frame clamp was replaced with no issues since. Within a week of delivery, I noticed that the caulking around the rear streetside window had yellowed, while the caulking on all other windows was still pristine white. I assume that during production someone ran out of caulk and grabbed the wrong kind. While only being a cosmetic issue, it still bugged me, and I will re-caulk that window when all others need to be caulked. We have the Suburban water heater. Ten days after delivery, while opening the water heater door to turn the heater to electric mode, one of the sheet metal screws holding the door hinge fell out, apparently having been stripped during assembly at the factory or installation at Oliver. The missing screw allowed the forward part of the heater door to open almost half an inch. I felt fortunate that a gust of wind didn't rip the door off completely while underway. I used some white duct tape along the bottom edge of the heater door to act as a hinge, which held for the rest of the trip home. The apparent fix is to replace the missing screw with a larger one. Unrelated to an Oliver issue, I brought a TireTraker TT-600 TPMS system with us so we could have an easily installed TPMS system for the long drive home from Hohenwald. While marinating in the rain on our third day at Fall Creek Falls SP, I noticed that one of the trailer tires had gone from 55 PSI to 36 PSI overnight, with no obvious source of a leak. Rather than changing the tire in the heavy rain, I just inflated it to 70 PSI and checked it periodically the next day on the way back to Hohenwald. The tire held pressure, but I asked Jason to have the tire removed and check for the source of the leak. It turned out to be the TPMS sensor, and not an object in the tire. I replaced the leaking sensor with a spare (I bought 6 sensors), but it leaked audibly, no soap spray needed to find it. Next, I removed the sensor from the spare tire to put on the rolling wheel, and all was good. I will contact TireTraker to resolve the leaking sensor problem. Our Ollie got it's first bath today. While washing the roof on the streetside, I discovered that there were three loose stainless fender washers laying by the middle awning mounting bracket. Also, a few feet away there was a quarter inch chip in the roof gelcoat. Kind of disappointed in the quality control. I need to contact Oliver to find out how to fix the gelcoat chip. Other than those relatively minor issues, the Ollie is very comfortable and tows easily behind our RAM 1500 EcoDiesel, with no sway when passing or being passed by big rigs.

What brand TPMS?

I purchased Tuson TPMS and had them installed in my Oliver Tires before we headed out last February. It works very nice. The display shows Tire pressure and temperature. The TPMS are installed in the tire and replaces the existing stem. The TPMS is only activated after the trailer starts moving and there is a delay before shutting down. Batteries are integrated into the TPMS, so the entire unit will need to be replaced after about 5 years. David

I have the Tire Minder TPMS system, with 4 sensors. Installing each of the 4 sensors caused the stem to leak, briefly, until I got the sensor screwed all the way into the stem. Then, the leakage stopped. This might be the simple answer to your query. But, if you they leak again, I recommend you submit a service ticket to Oliver. Oliver sent new "plug-resistant" tire valve stems, with $25 gift cards to cover some of the installation cost, to all those they knew of that ended up with balance beads in their tires when they picked them up from the factory. I was told, when we took delivery of Hull #1291 in November, that the balance beads had been removed from all of our tires. Maybe they missed your Hull # 1242, and maybe it has balance beads. If your leaks persist, Oliver should "make it right" by sending the right "bead-compatible" tire stems to you, or paying to have the balance beads removed from all of your tires, and new valve stems installed.

I take my TPMS devices off in the winter. When I install them in the spring there is a minute small air lose when they are seating on the valve stem. Are you sure you have a leak. Did you unscrew them to see if the air loose continues?

I recently installed the TireMinder i10 TPMS system. The instruction manual says the following of page 28: Can Rubber Valve Stems Be Used with The TireMinder Transmitters? Yes, TireMinder Transmitters may be used on high quality, high pressure rubber valve sterns. However, we highly recommend brass or stainless steel valve sterns. Due to the fact that rubber valve sterns deteriorate fairly quickly, e.g. they should be replaced when replacing your tires, an external TPMS sensor can exacerbate the deteriorating by adding weight to the valve stern. Additional rubber valve stems issues are based on age, length and physical location (i.e. exposure to road salt, high heat, sun, etc). If using rubber valve sterns, it is recommended that you check the condition of you rubber valve sterns on a regular basis. Failing to do so will result in a tire failure.

I just took my LEII to Discount Tire to have them take off the wheels and install the GM TPMS sensors. I pointed out the jack points on the trailer. The trolly jacks they wheeled out did not lift the trailer high enough to fully get the wheels off the ground. The guys wanted to lift it by putting the trolly jacks under the axles. I was uncomfortable with this and they went and brought the tech mananger out and he told me they would not put anything under the trolly jacks or use anything else due to their safety protocol. He assured me they would use 4 trolly jacks and lift the entire trailer evenly from both axles and there would be no problem. I finally agreed and everything went just fine. No problems. TMPS works great. Just sharing this if anyone else goes to a tire shop. Discount Tire was was great to work with by the way. Very professional and they had 5 guys all working on my trailer at one time to do it right. They only charged me $10 per wheel to remove, install TPMS sensors and then reinstall. Highly recommend Discount Tire as I've always had good service there.

I just completed the mounting of our Tire Minder TPMS booster, following your excellent instructions and photos. I am pleased with the location of the booster and the relative ease of installation, relying on your post. Thanks for posting!

I carried a TPMS unit with me to install at the factory. Rolled out to the campsite without doing it. Decided that losing fingers in 28 degree rain was not worth installing them on the trip. Risk of losing fingers vs risk of brand new tire blowing out came down on the fingers side of the equation. Possibly I have an unreasoned faith in the tire manufacturers. Installed the TPMS in 75 degree temps on the driveway today 🙂 Fortunately, traffic on the way back was calm so no crash stops. Focused on burnishing the brakes on the Ollie, light to medium braking. Eyesight kicked in a couple of times and I saw the indicator on the Redarc go red, so I know that the wiring harness is correct and the automatic brakes are being relayed to the trailer. I have, had not pulled the trigger yet, but this sounds like a good excuse. I will tell Rebecca that "John said I need one." 🙂 I need to verify this, but my understanding is that the Subaru factory harness on the Ascent does not support pushing charge power back to the trailer. Unlike a truck, the alternator is not sized for charging loads. However, this is based on reading the Ascent forums as well as the owners manuals, which can be a bit contradictory at times. Will do some work with the old multi-meter and try to update on the charging. On this trip it was raining and grey all the time, and I know that we got to our second night with the batteries at 80% after running the fridge all day. So definitely something I need to get a better understanding on as we want to be able to do some light boondocking in the near future. Reset is equipped with the 2022 Lithium Plus package for the Elite I, so two Lithionics batteries and the rooftop solar. Will be reading all the back posts in the forum on care and feeding for those. I had a Forrester with the CVT when we started looking at our Happer Camper HC1 back four years ago. The HC1 is about 990 lbs dry and likely 1200k the way we had it kitted out. When I discussed it with our Subaru tech his comment was "I'm in service, not sales. However, I would not recommend anything more that utility towing with the Forester. The Outback has the CVT setup properly for small travel towing. I would not be surprised to have problems on a Forester CVT with that load." Good advice is invaluable. We replaced the Forester with an Outback. Lots of trips over four years, including a Dallas, New Mexico, Colorado, across Death Valley, Los Angeles, Phoenix, and Arizona trip. That one made liberal use of the paddle shifters in and out of Phoenix and through the Durango area. No issues with the CVT, traded the Outback with 100k miles in great condition on the current Ascent. You are absolutely correct - being on top of the fluid changes is key. I am one of those people who has the dealership do all my adjustments and fluid changes so they keep the Subaru approved stuff in and I always discuss the "suggested" service bulletins so they are generally keeping up with the hidden ones as well as the public ones. Thus the relationship with my Subaru tech and the reason he felt comfortable shooting straight with me. Fun fact - my son currently drives my older 2004 Forester (not the one mentioned above but it's predecessor) with over 360k miles. 🙂 Pre-CVT of course. Now - Tow - Haul setting. That's a bit of black magic on the Ascent, lots of people have lots of opinions. You can't use anti sway hitch on an Ascent since it has special anti sway capabilities built in that are activated when it detects a connected 7-pin. No idea what else is activated when that 7-pin goes in, however just from "feeling" the way it changed after picking up the trailer my gut tells me that they are tweaking the shifting and power ratios. Love the questions, makes me think through things and possibly gives me questions of my own. Will post more photos - after I get the road salt and grime off of Reset. Appreciate the fix on the photo - I need to play with photo posting on this forum. iPhone photos and the new heic format are a PIT* when working from the laptop. And now - without starting a new post... Of course everything was dormant grass wise, I don't know when they laid it down but I don't think it got much time to get settled before the winter. The worst thing was the drainage around the pad - I thanked them for the "lakefront" camping spot (Slot #1) for our overnight stay. I looked out of the trailer around midnight the little lights that mark the edge of the pad were glowing underwater at the rear of the pad. In the morning one had broken half way free and was floating. These are the stock wheels for the Ascent Limited (think they are the same on the Touring but not sure), I do like the way they look. When I first started looking at the Ascent platform I felt it was a bit clunky, but have come to really appreciate the details of "Blue Moose" in our first 4k miles. Thanks John for all the great questions - I don't think I missed any 🙂 Kevin

My TPMS (EEZTIRE) has a re-chargeable internal battery that lasts up to 60 hours of active monitoring (the monitor shuts itself down if the tow vehicle is not moving and restarts automatically when moving) which equates to about a week of actual travel time. Certainly it can also be hardwired but I've not done that due to the ease of use without having even more wires to deal with. If your TPMS has a re-chargeable battery you might want to consider giving it a shot before doing the work of pulling those wires. Bill

I bought the TST 507 tpms for both the LE2 and the TV. My reasoning for the tv sensors was that as I understand it, the vehicle sensors are for pressure only. I wanted to see the temperatures too. I bought a ViAir to air up the tires as needed. John

The EZTire TPMS (like this) also does not have to be rotating to read temp and pressure.. Bill

The TST TPMS we use monitors the tire pressure and tire heat and does not require the tire to be in rotation for a reading. It also works fine on the stationary spare. Patriot 🇺🇸

John, I have the TST TPMS and I replace the batteries in the sensors once per year. I also remove all batteries on any Ollie remotes when we winterize. Just replace with fresh in the Spring. Old batteries can weep and become a mess if left too long in any device. Patriot🇺🇸

I recall that putting our TPMS on spares was not an effective tire monitoring approach. Unless the tire is turning, it will not for most system report a pressure. If Ollie has a deflation, when I mount the spare, I transfer the sensor to the spare. That said, having spare sensors IS a good idea. So point well taken, just for our system, a different reason. GJ