Keeping Your Ollie Safe when unhitched and away- How are you doing this?

[Mike Spies]

My wife and I are hoping to use our Oliver as a home base, setting up in one location for a few days, unhitching and enjoying day trips from there. Curious to know what  most are doing to ensure that the trailer is not stolen when left behind. I was thinking of both a tongue lock and a wheel chock lock, but also kicking around the idea of a hidden GPS tracker, in the event that the trailer was ever taken.  Looking forward to hearing your feedback when time permits.  TIA, Mike.

[Ronbrink]

Any or all of the measures you mentioned, but at minimum a hitch lock and securing the safety chains. Some owners also remove the stabilizer jack fuses, when deployed they serve as an anchor. 

[Mike Spies]

1 hour ago, Ronbrink said:

Any or all of the measures you mentioned, but at minimum a hitch lock and securing the safety chains. Some owners also remove the stabilizer jack fuses, when deployed they serve as an anchor. 

Thanks, Ronbrink- appreciate the feedback and the idea of pulling the jack fuses is not something I would have considered. 

[John Dorrer]

We and many Oliver Owners use the Proven Industries Puck Lock for the 2" Bulldog Hitch, 2178B. 

 

The other items mention are all deterrents. If someone wants something bad enough they will get it. We just want to make it hard or direct them to move on to another target.

Edited August 19 by John Dorrer
typo

[ADKCamper]

Instead of pulling the stabilizer jack fuses every time, we added a short terminal strip and (3) 30A SPST toggle switches under the dinette seat to disable the stabilizer jacks. Since these photos were taken I've replaced the terminal strip shown with one that has an insulating cover over the connections.

White PVC (?) angle is 1.5" corner guard from https://www.wallguard.com

30A toggle switches are Cole Hersee #202086 from Defender.com, $5.99 each in 2020.

 

 

Edited August 19 by ADKCamper

[Patriot]

@Mike Spies

The search window is your friend here on the forum. 😊 There are lots of topics that have been discussed previously which you may find helpful.
Here is a link from a previous older post on locking down an Oliver. I agree with @John Dorrer the proven lock is likely the best in the industry as far as securing your hitch. Fortunately there have not been many reports of stolen Olivers. 👍🏻
 

 

[Mountainman198]

I use “The Collar” lock with a 2” ball with the shank cut off locked in the hitch. When gone for more than a week I also park my rusty K20 in front of it. With the threat of tetanus and the added bonus of a manual transmission I feel as though most bases are covered

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, Mountainman198 said:

I use “The Collar” lock with a 2” ball with the shank cut off locked in the hitch. When gone for more than a week I also park my rusty K20 in front of it. With the threat of tetanus and the added bonus of a manual transmission I feel as though most bases are covered

Lance, that truck is a classic, the rust is just an added feature!  Mike

[Mountainman198]

6 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

Lance, that truck is a classic, the rust is just an added feature!  Mike

It is a true Michigan classic in that while it only has 55k orig miles, MI road salt has gotten to it.  

[Jack Coddington]

9 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

We and many Oliver Owners use the Proven Industries Puck Lock for the 2" Bulldog Hitch, 2178B. 

 

The other items mention are all deterrents. If someone wants something bad enough they will get it. We just want to make it hard or direct them to move on to another target.

John, do the chains fit in the Model # 2178 B  ?

[John Dorrer]

44 minutes ago, Jack Coddington said:

John, do the chains fit in the Model # 2178 B  ?

NO. I wrap them around the tongue and use a heavy duty lock. 

[Ronbrink]

13 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

NO. I wrap them around the tongue and use a heavy duty lock. 

Same, but around my hoist post using a high security Stanley lock.

 

[Boudicca908]

There is another thread here on the forum that discusses hitch locks. YouTube has some demonstrations of locks being broken. Since I knew I was going to boondock a lot this year, I upgraded my hitch locks (I use two) including one around the collar (stays on even when I'm towing) and then a Ft Knox Locks. I can't seem to get my photo to upload, but you can find these online. 

https://ftknoxlocks.com/

 

[Mike Spies]

On 8/19/2024 at 8:51 AM, John Dorrer said:

We and many Oliver Owners use the Proven Industries Puck Lock for the 2" Bulldog Hitch, 2178B. 

 

The other items mention are all deterrents. If someone wants something bad enough they will get it. We just want to make it hard or direct them to move on to another target.

Hi, John. Thank you for the note back; I appreciate the support.

[Mike Spies]

On 8/19/2024 at 11:02 AM, ADKCamper said:

Instead of pulling the stabilizer jack fuses every time, we added a short terminal strip and (3) 30A SPST toggle switches under the dinette seat to disable the stabilizer jacks. Since these photos were taken I've replaced the terminal strip shown with one that has an insulating cover over the connections.

White PVC (?) angle is 1.5" corner guard from https://www.wallguard.com

30A toggle switches are Cole Hersee #202086 from Defender.com, $5.99 each in 2020.

 

 

Great idea!  Thank you for posting.

[Mike Spies]

On 8/19/2024 at 12:58 PM, Patriot said:

@Mike Spies

The search window is your friend here on the forum. 😊 There are lots of topics that have been discussed previously which you may find helpful.
Here is a link from a previous older post on locking down an Oliver. I agree with @John Dorrer the proven lock is likely the best in the industry as far as securing your hitch. Fortunately there have not been many reports of stolen Olivers. 👍🏻
 

 

Thanks, Patriot. I did try using the search function prior to posting with no luck- definitely something I’m doing wrong. I appreciate the importance of trying to search for answers before asking, especially if that question has already been asked multiple times. The forum is busy enough without us Newbies clogging it up with repeat questions. I’ll try again to sort through the search engine and see what I come up with.  Appreciate the heads up.

[Mike Spies]

On 8/19/2024 at 4:12 PM, Mountainman198 said:

I use “The Collar” lock with a 2” ball with the shank cut off locked in the hitch. When gone for more than a week I also park my rusty K20 in front of it. With the threat of tetanus and the added bonus of a manual transmission I feel as though most bases are covered

Appreciate the note back, Mountainman198. Thank you.

[mossemi]

@Mike Spies
Try this method while using Google's search function, you might find your own post.

site:olivertraveltrailers.com 'GPS tracker'

Mossey

[ScubaRx]

After updating our tow vehicle from a 1500 to a 2500 and now a 3500 HD truck, I changed out the old 2"-7000 pound Bulldog coupler to the 2-5/16"-12000 pound version. Like Mountainman 198, I sawed off the shank of a 2" ball. I inserted the ball into the old coupler and welded it in place. I also welded down the locking lever. Just leave this hitch attached to your unattended trailer to slow down any potential thieves.

Edited August 21 by ScubaRx

[dhaig]

I also use The Collar and an Abus disk lock to secure the Bulldog coupler.  Both were sourced from Heartland Lock.  I prefer The Collar over other coupler locks, since it can be used to secure the trailer when both hitched and unhitched.

In addition, I purchased a pair of chrome steel ball bearings from Amazon.  I must give credit to @John E Davies.  See:

 

[2008RN]

I use the "Collar" parked or driving.  The chains are locked up when parked. I use the "Proven Industries Hitch Lock" I would like to replace the Puck lock that came with it with a Conical Puck lock so it can't  be drilled out.  I also have a 6 foot Abus hardened chain that I put through the Rims on one side when parked.  Everywhere the I need a paddle lock I have used a 3/8 Abus granite harden lock and all locks are keyed a like. They are difficult to pick, and break.

I know this may be overkill and nothing is fool proof, but the more difficult to steal, greater chance they will move on to an easier target.

When the truck is attached, I have an Alarm system, and a way to keep from the truck from starting.  A good thief can steal the Ford 7.3 super duty trucks in under 30 seconds.  If the Oliver is attached and you are in a store you could lose everything. I am sure there are other tow vehicles that are just as vulnerable.

[jd1923]

On 8/19/2024 at 3:58 AM, Mike Spies said:

My wife and I are hoping to use our Oliver as a home base, setting up in one location for a few days, unhitching and enjoying day trips from there.

We generally camp where we want to visit vs. any "home base" idea. Take the Oliver with you! It makes it through narrow dirt roads and busy city neighborhoods.

We will leave our trailer parked for a few hours during the day, sometimes much of the day, but never overnight. If I'm at a state park or any well-kept campground, we do not worry. When boondocking we will not leave for more than a half day and I will worry.

You can add any hitch lock device, spend hundreds and it will not matter if they want to tow it away. All anybody needs is a simple lever jack, the kind that are used on cheap travel trailers and a battery-powered 1/2" impact gun. Lift the front high enough to chain it to a tailgate. Pull the fuses on your leveling jacks and when they recover your trailer these will need replacing and likely some body damage!

Use a decent hitch lock and chain two wheels together on the side of the trailer that would be most noticeable (I've done this when leaving a trailer on a property that I will not see for months). This would slow them down better than anything, or chain a wheel to a tree or the campground concrete picnic table! 🤣

Edited August 21 by jd1923

[MAX Burner]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

This would slow them down better than anything, or chain a wheel to a tree or the campground concrete picnic table! 🤣

Rabbit Hole:  OK...  how about jacking up one side with the rear levelers, remove the rims on that side (take them with you where ever you're leaving to), torque down a keyed lug nut on one or more studs on the rimless wheels...?  I'm thinking that would really slow 'em down.

[John Dorrer]

10 years ago we had a Revelco theft system installed in our F250. Back then it was $400. To date there hasn't been a reported theft. Remove the Faub and the truck is safe.